Hello,
little question to the owners of the dialed in:
in coil test mode, does coils 12 and 14 work (it's the two right-handed beaters up and down in Hold mode)?
thank you in advance

if you move the flipper to the up position manually, then yes, the "hold" will work in test.

you have to press START to test? like for coil 10?

OK reporting back- John from Pinballsales.com drove 2 hours (!) to my house from Asbury, NJ. He brought me a brand new complete phone and bracket that had been tested on a machine for 3 days 24/hours a day I was told with no issues.

It's now installed and so far so good. Obviously my other two phones each worked for a full day as well- so while dubious I'm hopeful I'm done.

Bottom line- the VGA screen isn't the greatest IMO. It may not hold up over time- but he said this was the first time he's seen back/back failures like this.

With that all said- they've have literally gone above and beyond and I'm thankful for their efforts. They haven't said no to any reasonable ask I've made in the 2 months I've owned it. I'm more than satisfied with their responsiveness.

Thank you! This is exactly the problem with mine and this worked. Without the adjustment the plate has to move too far and the coil doesn't fire long enough to move it all the way and the trap door to close. Someone should alert the JJP factory to this, my game built in Jan 2018 still did not have the adjustment pin bent into place.

I just got my LE in the mail, I'm waiting for a friend to come help me move it and set it up before I fully open it up. #285. Is that an older number or have they not been making that many?

I'm a bit worried. The lightning bolt was outside the cab and broken. The glass and cab look good though, I'm just not popping that strap to check everything until we can get it moved and the legs on.

The numbers themselves are arbitrary. They are not produced in numerical order. What you will want to look for is the "build date" on the serial number tag. That will let you know the age of the game.

A fuse is blown, loose plastics from missing screws and bolts scratched other plastics, broken lightning bolt, scratched and scuffed invisiglass from the loose plastics. Worst of all, unplayable today.

I'm happy to say that I'll be joining this club this weekend! I ordered a DI LE and am really looking forward to getting it.

I'm told it has the latest cliffies, etc. The one thing I'm concerned about, reading this thread, is cutting the mylar off of the magnets. For the drone magnet, it sounds like I just take an xacto knife and trace it around the metal magnet on the top of the playfield, is that right? For the one under the theater, people seem to remove the magnet from the underside and cut it out from there. I do have a question about that. It would seem that you are then cutting the mylar with nothing solid behind it. I would think this wouldn't cut evenly. Is there some trick to it that I'm missing? Cutting mylar is all new to me so any advice would be much appreciated!

Hi all
We just finished making our first set of Dialed In Mirror Blades..what do you think?

-joe
www.pingraffix.com

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I have an issue with the phone screen. It happens the same way every time. The first time I start the game up, only the very bottom portion of the phone has images on it during play. I think on boot up the screen says something about a low power mode for the phone.

If I wait for the game to boot up and then turn it off and on again the phone works perfectly.

Has anyone else seen this? Any ideas LTG

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Looks awesome. Will probably be making an order soon.

What is this mylar story about magnets?
Thank you for your answers

Which fuse blew on your game? I had F706 blow on mine and I'm pretty sure the issue was the auto shooter VUK was stuck open against the right tab of the apron and therefore resulting in a short. I bent that tab up a bit, replaced the fuse and everything has been fine since then.

If the Invisiglass is really scratched I would ask your distributor for a replacement. Are you sure it's not adhesive stuck on? Try buffing out with micro fiber cloth and an amomia free glass cleaner (I use Sparkle). Broken QUED lightning bolt seems to be common, had same issue. Which plastics are scratched?

Also, I would highly recommend tossing the balls that came from the factory. Those and even the Super Shiny premium carbon core balls can get pitted easily and scratch your playfield. Order the Ninja Chrome ones from Ball Baron, those work perfectly and hold up well.

Thanks for the advice on the balls. I'll order some soon.

It is indeed the trough VUK which is also the left lane kickback. I'll check that out when I get home. I don't have a local store that has the fuse I need though, so I'm having to wait for some to come from Amazon tomorrow.

The glass is scratched pretty bad as well as Bob's sign and the plastic underneath it. There was only a single bolt out of three on it and it was swiveling around and hitting everything during shipping. I haven't gotten anything back from the JJ Support ticket yet, but from what I hear of them I'm certain they will take care of it for me.

It's my first NIB and patience is hard though.

Ah ok, yeah that's the same fuse I had blowing, F706. Once you get a new fuse in there don't turn the game on yet, get the playfield lifted to a service position and then turn the game on to test the auto launcher and kickback. The issue I was having would occur as soon as I lowered the playfield back to the lockdown bar mech. Since the auto launcher was stuck open against the tab of the apron I believe it was providing a current to the apron which resulted in a short when I lowered the playfield and the apron tabs made contact with the lockdown bar mech.

Ted sent me some very helpful tips and items to check for that I can also pass along. He mentioned to check if a red 70v wire that provides power to the coils for items on F706 is making contact with the apron in anyway. On my game it wasn't. All I know is as soon as the auto launcher had proper clearance I never had another issue.

Nice! Thanks for the info. I'll follow those steps as soon as I have the fuses tomorrow.

Glad to see you guys are liking them!

I have added tghem to ourweb site here in case anyone wants a set.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/dialed-in-pinball-mirror-bladeskinz-jersey-jack-pinball

Please allow two weeks of rthese are special order.

Best!

Can someone explain to me the "story" of Dialed In (or link to it)? Guy finds a phone with special powers from Dialed In Electronics...

DIE makes a phone that can cause 'quantum events'. DIE loses phone. Average joe finds phone. Average joe gets hit by lightning with phone. CRAZY SHIT HAPPENS.

The aristocrats.

Looking at the Ninja balls online. It says they can become magnetised, is this anyone’s experience.
What other balls have been used successfully and are the factory balls really an issue.
I have a game on order awaiting delivery.
Thanks.

The comic book is on IPDB, it’s basically this

Hey so here’s a thought - is DI the only modern pin with NO mods?!

Mezal makes a few but it really dont need any imo. Great lighting and packed full of cool stuff

I think I read somewhere, that If you don't remove the mylar,that's covering the magnets,the mylar will start to bubble up. I'll see if I can find the post, where I read this .This could be my first pinball machine,and I'm trying to read up on all of the possible problems,I'll have to fix, if I do decide on this game.

Here you go,this should answer your question. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/17#post-4019583

Bigd nailed it- this pf is packed and doesn’t really need any mods.

I had my tech in when I first got the game and had the Mylar cut away from each of the magnets. There were previous owners who reported bubbling of the Mylar over the magnets.

This is an awesome pin. Best change I made was upgrading to the real Cliffys from the original JJP scoop protectors. Cliffys make both shots (particularly the phone scoop) much easier to hit.

Hi all. Can I ask this question again? I’m very nervous about cutting Mylar on my own and would really like some advice. Especially for the Mylar on the theater magnet. Thanks!

I’ve had my game over a week and 120 plays, the Mylar on the magents is fine so far. So I am leaving it for now.

It will eventually cause a issue, in particularly the theater magnet performance with the toss back. It will become inconsistent bc of bubbling in the mylar

If it becomes a problem I’ll deal with it then. For now leaving it factory.

My Mylar is bubbling. Going to pull the magnet and chop it. The wear is uneven, so I wouldn't wait. You WILL have to do it.

As for Ninja balls, skip them and get a tumbler. Factory balls are fine, but the game is a little hard on the balls, like a cock tease.

This just happened while my son was in multiball.

Still lovin' DI.

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The mylar is not easy to cut from the top of the playfield, that includes the drone magnet. I know it sounds scary, but removing the magnets from under the playfield is pretty easy, just three screws each. Once they're out of the way, it's easy to cut with a sharp exacto knife, just follow the outline of the round magnet opening. I did have to adjust the theater magnet after removing the mylar though because it started to let it drain down the middle without sending it around.

Pinbuck is spot on...it sounds scary, but it is fairly easy and simple. I am a novice at this and it took me about 15 minutes to remove the mylar off the theater. Just follow his instructions, I would recommend wiping the magnet core with goo off to remove the adhesive. If you need help just message me.

If this sounds scary, consider it good training. Pinball machines need constant work, which includes removing and replacing woodscrews, diodes, coils, transistors and occasionally full mechanisms. Remember, it's a piece of plywood with pre-drilled holes. Just don't overtighten.

Thanks guys. I’m used to removing stuff and fixing things. What sounded scary to me is cutting the Mylar from the underside as you are cutting against air so I thought it would make an uneven cut. In other words, from the bottom of the playfield, you have a hole where the magnet was, and the hole is covered with Mylar, sticky side facing you. If you cut around that hole, there is no support on the other side, so it would seem to me to cut unevenly. Did you put a small piece of wood against the top of the playfield while you cut from under it? Or am I completely confused and getting this mixed up?

K, guess I’ll cave and remove the Mylar from the magnet post. I need lift the playfield to adjust the adjustment arm on the trap door anyways, still fails to close once in a while.

I just removed the theater magnet mylar using the under-playfield method and it was a breeze. My exacto knife had no trouble cutting at all. It was quicker and smoother than my above-playfield cut to remove the drone magnet mylar (which I did a few months ago - it took me more time and wasn't as clean a cut when I had to manuever the exacto through the small space between that magnet and the playfield).

Thanks to all for the guidance on it.

I was impressed with how heavy the theater magnet was.

Hello,
in the BOB mode where you have to scratch tickets. I do not understand, you have to go through the theater to get a ticket. Then there are times when the ticket scratches itself and at other times or I feel that you have to move in front of the camera (with his hand for example) to scratch, is this normal?

That’s right. You have to scratch it by waving. Sometimes it just gives it to you - maybe it senses your movement.

I had a rather portly gentleman playing my DI once. His tummy hanging over the lockdown bar was enough to scratch off the ticket fast.

LTG : )

Portly. You are a gentleman Lloyd

It turns out that my hanger brackets are bent. At behest of the JJ tech I'm going to take them off and bend them to where they are supposed to be. Any idea what I'm looking for to make sure something isn't touching anymore for my short? I checked the trough gate and that doesn't seem to be touching anything.

Auto launch coil lugs for left kickback and right shooter lane. Contacting lockdown bar receiver. I'd wrap the coil lugs in black electrician tape just to be safe.

LTG : )

It came!

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Unfortunaely, right at power up, there were two malfunction alerts -- the moving statue and the moving target, two key features of the game. They wouldn't operate in test mode. Feeling deflated, I checked all connections under the playfield, and everythign looked good. I finally decided to check the backbox and sure enough, two connectors were unplugged. Now, all is well.

What a blast to play! It is a fairly hard game too. Watching videos of some the best players, like Bowen's tutorial, before purchasing, can mislead you into thinking it is easy to get through modes. It's not. But it is addictive.

And, this happened on my 10th game. I don't know if that's a good score or not, but it felt like a pretty good one.

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I have a new problem on my Dialed In. The trapdoor is stuck in the open position. When I test the device it does not work, although i do hear the coil attempting to pull down. I also dont see or feel anything blocking the movement. The smaller latch coil does seem to be quite hot though. Any suggestions??
Thanks,
Rob

I'd move it up and down manually to be sure it isn't stuck.

Then the top of the plate the relay pulls down, a wipe of grease along the top of it. Then see the "E" clip above the yellow circle, the parts that move on that shaft the "E"clip is on. Put some oil along the top of all those moving patrs and then work the mech up and down a few times to get the oil into places that need it.

Than see if operation improves.

LTG : )

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Thanks, I will give it a try!

I had the same issue last week and LTG gave me the same advice... it’s been working fine since.

Any updates on when the DI printed manual will ship?