(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,055 posts
  • 494 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Mageek
  • Topic is favorited by 165 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,088 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

DI CLIP (resized).jpg
DI1 (resized).jpg
DI2 (resized).jpg
DI4 (resized).jpg
69372CE8-CD3A-4BBA-83ED-0A9FAFD64120 (resized).jpeg
568A8AB3-9D97-47E8-AA46-E8F17CEE6CF1 (resized).jpeg
diflash (resized).jpg
99121346-CA6A-4DFC-8201-4E64F2D70934 (resized).jpeg
di-decals-sample (resized).jpg
decals4 (resized).jpg
decals2 (resized).jpg
decals1 (resized).jpg
decals0 (resized).jpg
E7AA35A9-DCF8-41E0-BF0E-55B48A51044D (resized).jpeg
20190828_143115 (resized).jpg
20190814_142930 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 9055 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 182.
#2751 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

The thing is the legs should actually be touching the cabinet. They are shaped to spread the compression over a larger area. People's anal retentiveness over the cabinet corners has caused people to not want that to happen. It also makes the games more wobbly. You're now putting sharing stress on the bolts, which is not what they are designed for. Bolts are designed for linear stress.

This...isn’t how engineering works.

#2752 1 year ago
Quoted from NerdyWife:

This...isn’t how engineering works.

Yeah it actually is. Supporting the mass over a smaller area increases the shear force on the bolts. The smaller standoff provides much less contact area (by design). Essentially balancing the leg on the smaller standoffs is less stable, there is more movement between the legs and cab. Push your DI, then go push a game what the legs are against the cab, it's a lot firmer. Is it enough that you'll shear the bolts, not likely. But it's more likely than the old mounting style.

#2753 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

"The clearcoat is one of the hardest and best you can find on the market and the mix is done by a robot. So no human error can occur. The damage is caused by the balls. All other ideas are simply wrong. Most of the people who write on pinside don't really know what they are talking about...."

Wow little bit of column A & B. Pinsiders on average don't know what they're talking about can't argue that ... But is he telling me this clearcoat on my DI that started cracking like an egg after 20 plays is the best in the business?!?

#2754 1 year ago

The cracking on scoop-edges could be "normal" - when a steel ball hits the edge it must happen cause this is the weakest part.

I have seen pics of cliffys which were bend. And that is steel.... How should some layers of thin coat prevent this?

I have some mirco playfields in use an seen alot on locations and they looked very - only the scoops looked a bit damaged...

#2755 1 year ago

This might be a stupid question but on my DI there is already metal fittings on the cabinet looking just like those protectors in your link. Do I really need an extra layer of metal?

#2756 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

This might be a stupid question but on my DI there is already metal fittings on the cabinet looking just like those protectors in your link. Do I really need an extra layer of metal?

No, the ones applied are fine. Leave them in place, put the felt on as extra protection and go play. And nudge the shit out of the game.

#2757 1 year ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

The cracking on scoop-edges could be "normal" - when a steel ball hits the edge it must happen cause this is the weakest part.
I have seen pics of cliffys which were bend. And that is steel.... How should some layers of thin coat prevent this?

Let's cut the "when a steel ball..." routine can we? This is a pinball machine, just like all the other pinball machines made before it, does anyone remember clear chipping off the first day a game was owned? Cause I sure don't.

The cliffys are bent on games because they are covering scoop damage of older games that were played thousands & thousands of times before being damaged. That's without even getting into the fact the metal is above the PF etc etc

#2758 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Let's cut the "when a steel ball..." routine can we? This is a pinball machine, just like all the other pinball machines made before it, does anyone remember clear chipping off the first day a game was owned? Cause I sure don't.
The cliffys are bent on games because they are covering scoop damage of older games that were played thousands & thousands of times before being damaged. That's without even getting into the fact the metal is above the PF etc etc

Couldn't have said it better! Great post...

snaroff

#2759 1 year ago

Help my theatre not seeing balls going thru it. Thanks

#2760 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Help my theatre not seeing balls going thru it. Thanks

Go into switch test mode and manually try triggering it to see if the opto works. If it doesn't, check the connections to the multi-opto board under the playfield. After that, check to see if other optos in the same column work (left orbit made opto above and to the left of the theatre, phone scoop enter, moving target away opto). If they're ok, then an opto at the theatre or the opto board they plug into may be out.

#2761 1 year ago

Is the switch #13 Theatre Center Shot the switch I want?Can you roll a ball by the optics with coin door open

#2762 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Is the switch #13 Theatre Center Shot the switch I want?Can you roll a ball by the optics with coin door open

Yes, that's what you want. You don't have to roll a ball. Anything can interrupt the opto beam, just has to be long enough to reach into the theatre.

#2763 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Is the switch #13 Theatre Center Shot the switch I want?Can you roll a ball by the optics with coin door open

Power on, coin door open. Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed. A ball or your finger, roll it by the opto set in the lane walls with under the theater.

Not working ? Turn game off. Remove two screws holding the big clear plastic piece over the pop bumpers. Then remove the screw and nuts holding the theater down, and set the theater to the rear.

Look at the optos, one on each wall. Did one come out ? Snap it back in. I'd put a dab of hot glue on it. Reassemble. You are good to go.

LTG : )

#2764 1 year ago

Thanks guys I’ll look again

#2765 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Help my theatre not seeing balls going thru it. Thanks

You opto more than likely feel off ,I did my left one twice before I glued it in place.

#2766 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

You opto more than likely feel off ,I did my left one twice before I glued it in place.

They snap in pretty firmly. I didn't even think that was a possibility!

#2767 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Power on, coin door open. Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed. A ball or your finger, roll it by the opto set in the lane walls with under the theater.
Not working ? Turn game off. Remove two screws holding the big clear plastic piece over the pop bumpers. Then remove the screw and nuts holding the theater down, and set the theater to the rear.
Look at the optos, one on each wall. Did one come out ? Snap it back in. I'd put a dab of hot glue on it. Reassemble. You are good to go.
LTG : )

Hey Lloyd
I removed large plastic on pops and then removed front right nut and left rear but on clear plastic but In meeting resistance removing theatre

44DAD969-F47F-4C89-A410-EA3AAED532A9 (resized).jpeg

#2768 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

but In meeting resistance removing theatre

Look around the left side ( from front of cabinet ) another bolt along there and a quarter drive head wood screw behind it. You may need to remove a plastic on the left side.

LTG : )

#2769 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

They snap in pretty firmly. I didn't even think that was a possibility!

They don't snap back in firmly the second, third, etc. time. The metal wall chews the plastic up.

LTG : )

#2770 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

They don't snap back in firmly the second, third, etc. time. The metal wall chews the plastic up.
LTG : )

Hot glue or silicone?Kind of scary with the hot glue on rubber

#2771 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Hot glue or silicone?

Either.

Quoted from romulusx:

Kind of scary with the hot glue on rubber

Remove the wall so you can do a better job.

LTG : )

#2772 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Either.

Remove the wall so you can do a better job.
LTG : )

Snapped in gluing now Thanks

#2773 1 year ago

I know that this thread has been bombarded with cabinet side lighting (aka "Stadium") adverts, but I just posted another DIY guide to make it for Dialed In: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-cabinet-side-aka-stadium-lighting.

This video shows it in action using a Pinduino to drive lighting effects, but it can easily be done with any type of LED strips.

IMG_6786 (resized).JPG

IMG_6780 (resized).JPG

#2774 1 year ago

I'm sure the extra lighting is great. Thanks for posting.

For anyone who doesn't have the game, I'll say this...DI has an excellent light show and needs nothing else (to me). I can't remember a better display of color and effects on any of the pins I've owned throughout the years.

Either way, you can't lose with this pin.

#2775 1 year ago
Quoted from chill:

I'm sure the extra lighting is great. Thanks for posting.
For anyone who doesn't have the game, I'll say this...DI has an excellent light show and needs nothing else (to me). I can't remember a better display of color and effects on any of the pins I've owned throughout the years.
Either way, you can't lose with this pin.

I agree 100% The lighting on DI is superb (especially when compared to WoZ). One of the motivations behind this was testing how the Pinduino works with JJP games (which it did without any problems). The other was finding a good place to drive some lights with the Pinduino. I was thinking about doing the ramps for non LE owners, but it is a lot of work to access that ramp. Also, I really wanted to show people how easy it was to do cabinet side lighting. If anyone is interested in interactive lighting for the ramp in DI, just let me know.

#2776 1 year ago

The cab side lighting is cool. Thank you for the video.

I have a Standard and have kind of gotten used to the lightless left ramp, but that corner where the side ramps curls around needs something.

Who knows, maybe I'll get in touch with you about more lighting.

Thanks

#2777 1 year ago

Often times during a mode when I hit the theatre as need it, it constantly releases straight down the middle and drains.

Any fix for this? Under the test menu I increased and decreased the delay but it still happens.

#2778 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Often times during a mode when I hit the theatre as need it, it constantly releases straight down the middle and drains.
Any fix for this? Under the test menu I increased and decreased the delay but it still happens.

Have you checked so your game is level? Using a spirit level is essentiell on this game.

#2779 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Often times during a mode when I hit the theatre as need it, it constantly releases straight down the middle and drains.
Any fix for this? Under the test menu I increased and decreased the delay but it still happens.

I decreased the power of the phone scoop power and it now consistently feeds the right flipper. You might want to give that a try.

#2780 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Have you checked so your game is level? Using a spirit level is essentiell on this game.

Yah I’ve been messing with the level to try and get it to hit the left flipper.

I decided to change the theatre to test lab mode in the menu. This adds a wiggle to the catch and release mode of the flipper. Seems to have fixed it!

My phone scoop does launch pretty hard. Usually it sticks to the right flipper, but it can bounce out. I’ll drop it down a little. Thanks!

#2781 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Yah I’ve been messing with the level to try and get it to hit the left flipper.
I decided to change the theatre to test lab mode in the menu. This adds a wiggle to the catch and release mode of the flipper. Seems to have fixed it!
My phone scoop does launch pretty hard. Usually it sticks to the right flipper, but it can bounce out. I’ll drop it down a little. Thanks!

My machine likes the wiggle and dialing down the phone scoop power helped as well...

snaroff

#2782 1 year ago

Spoke to Jack from JJP on the phone yesterday, and I can't begin to tell you how impressed I am by him and the way he runs his company. He was funny and very accommodating. Felt like I was talking to a friend more than some company head. He will no doubt be getting more of my money in the future. I'm very glad that Pinball has companies like JJP and CGC so we aren't stuck with larger shops like Stern that don't seem to understand that the customer satisfaction is quintessential to keeping this hobby going.

#2783 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Spoke to Jack from JJP on the phone yesterday, and I can't begin to tell you how impressed I am by him and the way he runs his company. He was funny and very accommodating. Felt like I was talking to a friend more than some company head. He will no doubt be getting more of my money in the future. I'm very glad that Pinball has companies like JJP and CGC so we aren't stuck with larger shops like Stern that don't seem to understand that the customer satisfaction is quintessential to keeping this hobby going.

Yep jjp and jack are good folks

#2784 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Spoke to Jack from JJP on the phone yesterday, and I can't begin to tell you how impressed I am by him and the way he runs his company. He was funny and very accommodating. Felt like I was talking to a friend more than some company head. He will no doubt be getting more of my money in the future. I'm very glad that Pinball has companies like JJP and CGC so we aren't stuck with larger shops like Stern that don't seem to understand that the customer satisfaction is quintessential to keeping this hobby going.

Glad things are working out for you.

I had a good experience dealing with Jack when I purchased my IJ4 years ago, talking with him before he started JJP. He was gracious enough to refund my deposit for TH back in 2014 when I needed the money. Fast forward to 2017 and I bought DI and love it. Looking forward to future pins from his group.

#2785 1 year ago

Has anyone had a problem with the ball getting stuck inside the crazy bob subway device? Have had it get stuck inside there on a ledge 3-4 times in the past week. Had to tilt the machine by picking up the front to get it out of there.

#2786 1 year ago

I have the ball get stuck a few times and I looked into it and really could not do much but it has not happened in a long while

#2787 1 year ago
Quoted from DrStarkweather:

Has anyone had a problem with the ball getting stuck inside the crazy bob subway device? Have had it get stuck inside there on a ledge 3-4 times in the past week. Had to tilt the machine by picking up the front to get it out of there.

Had this problem when the game was brand new. The problem lies where the metal trapdoor meets the plastic subway ramp. You have to bend the metal to make sure there is no lip catching the ball there.

I just grabbed the metal part of the trapdoor/subway and shoved it with a decent bit of pressure until it was higher than the plastic subway.

#2788 1 year ago

Got my DI LE and I am super impressed with it!!! Amazing game.. layout, rules, artwork, etc. I personally LOVE the original theme. My kids (9 and 7) gravitated to it and are laughing and having a great time with hitting the phone and starting modes, selfies, etc etc. It was the perfect theme to bring young kids into pinball and combine tech with old school mechanical pinball.

I had to only tweak a couple things, but I am having an issue - not a big one at all.

My game came with the wires for the high voltage coin door switch not installed. I called JJP and they sent me a pic of how the wires go, but for some reason when I first boot the game it thinks the coin door is still open. I can still start and play a game and it works fine, but the game simply does not know when the coin door is open or closed.

Any ideas?? Thanks!

#2789 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

Any ideas??

Switch not wired right ? Metal flap on coin door isn't pushing a switch in far enough ?

LTG : )

#2790 1 year ago

@nepi: hi Marko here is a picture from what i did

IMG_20180201_185128 (resized).jpg

#2791 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Switch not wired right ? Metal flap on coin door isn't pushing a switch in far enough ?
LTG : )

Nah it just doesn't work. I've tried to physically push both those switches in and nothing. Even the switch test doesn't acknowledge them. JJP support doesn't seem to have an answer either other than their WOZ in the JJP break room does the same thing which isn't promising lol.

It's annoying because when it boots u can't just let it run through the screens, it just says Coin door Open

Why this wasn't caught before shipping is beyond me.

#2792 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

I've tried to physically push both those switches in and nothing.

Wires in the right spots on the bottom/memory protect switch ? Disconnect the wires and see with a meter if the switch works.

Any loose connectors inside the cabinet on the left side ? Continuity of those two wires from switch to the I/O board ?

LTG : )

#2793 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

It's annoying because when it boots u can't just let it run through the screens, it just says Coin door Open

You mentioned high voltage switch but I don't think the high voltage switch triggers the coin door open, rather the other switch does. The high voltage switch is the one that can be pulled out and locked in place while doing service work. I mentioned above that my coin door switch came wired incorrectly as well.

#2794 1 year ago
Quoted from gorgar007:

You mentioned high voltage switch but I don't think the high voltage switch triggers the coin door open, rather the other switch does. The high voltage switch is the one that can be pulled out and locked in place while doing service work. I mentioned above that my coin door switch came wired incorrectly as well.

Could you please post a pic of how your coin door switch is wired?

Thanks !

#2795 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

Could you please post a pic of how your coin door switch is wired?

WOZ picture, same thing.

LTG : )

IMG_0567 (resized).JPG

#2796 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

WOZ picture, same thing.
LTG : )

Thanks!

That's exactly how mine is connected...

#2797 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

That's exactly how mine is connected

Open coin door - push in that switch only, does the door open alert go away ? If so bend the metal flap a little to do a better job.

If not - This :

Quoted from LTG:

Disconnect the wires and see with a meter if the switch works.

Any loose connectors inside the cabinet on the left side ? Continuity of those two wires from switch to the I/O board ?

LTG : )

#2798 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Open coin door - push in that switch only, does the door open alert go away ? If so bend the metal flap a little to do a better job.
If not - This :

LTG : )

Yeah I push the switch in and it doesnt do anything - i'll do as you suggested and try and trace the wire - thanks man!

#2799 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

Yeah I push the switch in and it doesnt do anything - i'll do as you suggested and try and trace the wire - thanks man!

Then probably the other end isn't connected. Trace the wires back and see?

I have a couple unseated connectors hanging out of the box. Just sensors/switches though

#2800 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

Yeah I push the switch in and it doesnt do anything - i'll do as you suggested and try and trace the wire - thanks man!

Check the switch with a meter first, to be sure it works.

LTG : )

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 9,000.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Fort Lee, NEW JERSEY
$ 9,000.00
There are 9055 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 182.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside