The playfield scratch situation is the result of two things:

1) The carbon balls JJP includes with the game are naturally soft. All carbon balls are soft and nick/pit easily. So this will be an issue with ANY game where carbon balls are used. Carbon balls are soft, but way harder than the clear. So when they pit and scratch they then do the same to the playfield. I recommend doing anything possible to be able to use Chrome balls in your games. This mostly includes sticking a Pinbits protector in the trough to prevent stuck balls from magnetism. Chrome balls are much harder than carbon balls and take much longer to become damaging to the playfield.

2) Mirco playfields have a poor paint process. Not only do they chip easier but they wear faster than any other pf I've worked with including CGCs new stuff (not great but better than Mirco), classic Diamond Plate and PPG clear I've used in restores.

While you can't do much about #2 on JJP games, you can help the situation by using super shiny chrome balls like the Ball Baron Ninja or Titan's premium chrome balls.

With all this talk about scratches on the clear coat, might some compound help?

It's the next logical step is imagine.

How many multi balls in this game? I can only seem to get a 2 ball multi....havent seen any others yet.

You can get a 3 ball multiball with the Station, then add-a-ball from there. There's also monkey wrench and hi-voltage multiballs in the crazy modes.

Thanks. I guess i just stink...lol

Quantum City Chaos is 5 ball.

Well, I can adjust it between 100% to 0% so anything you thought was washed out could be adjusted. The reason the drone looks like that is 1. the photo 2. because its obviously closest to the leds which are close to the glass. The inserts are not taken away in any aspect. If it was, I would remove the kit. Also I got the GI integration so like during EMP strike and stuff, they turn off when the game is suppose to go "dark."

This is literally in my dining room with no light at night. Took it on a iphone at 7pm today with black out window blinds. The photo you showed does not have a dark mid playfield like mine, so either you are lieing and not in a 100% dark room, or you edited the photo, unlike mine being straight from picture to here. Actually, now that I look at your photo, you can clearly see light to the sides of your machine on both sides....so why try to spread BS? -Highlighted in red squares... clearly during the day.

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Or, he has a better camera than your iphone. That's a possibility, too. Why so accusatory? Dialed In is already pretty well-lit from the factory, but if you want more light, great. That won't be what everyone wants.

Nope, just looking at the light going through the window.

Not sure what that light bleed is but here are ones i just took...20180121_220329 (resized).jpg20180121_220214 (resized).jpg20180121_220123 (resized).jpg20180121_220120 (resized).jpg

99c3c70ad655591607f6c0468fac25e24534a234 (resized).jpg

I think the extra light was from my kitchen but its not alot st all trust me....

Got a good one this time.... 20180121_221121 (resized).jpg

And gi only....20180121_221440 (resized).jpg

Nice photo, but that’s attract mode with all lights on. Of course it’s bright. Mine was after pressing start just like you be during a normal game. Anyways, the mod is great. Just wanted to share with fellow Dialed In Owners. Yes the game has probably the best standard lighting out of most any other game and will be least needed but the difference was still massive to me as I play at night with all lights off.

Yeah, see the center of the pf during normal play like in the second photo. That’s what’s improved. Anyways, yeah. Just wanted to share.

Just as a comparison. Your photo to mine with pinstadium on for the diffference. Obviously our angles are different but you get it.

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And yours compared to mine with the blue and white.

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On a couple of stern machines I have lollipop rails to product the cabinet art around the flippers, what is everyone using for dialed in?

Iis the bottom right led out on my phone?

20180121_222856 (resized).jpg

No doubt it lights things up but di is the last pin thst needs that imo... in a completely dark room its plenty bright even more so than in the pics.

Step through the LED test, each individual LED can be lit 1 at a time, including those running around the phone.

Unneeded on JJP pins.

Thanks

Strummy, my led is also a bit dimmer in that same area. Even in test mode, it appears less bright.
JJP support indicated that it could be the small screw post in the same area which could be partially blocking that led. They’ve seen the same thing in other DIs.

As Kevlar said above, check in tests to see if the entire led is out (or possibly partially blocked by the phone molding).

Sorry, edited post to say JJP support (not Stern)- just a late night error when posting.

Stern support....

For JJP cabinet art that's likely overkill. We have JJP pins on route and haven't had a single one with Stern-like wear from fingers around the flipper buttons. JJP seems to have a better seal on their art or something. Doesn't wear and smear like Stern around the flipper buttons.

Has anyone installed pinblades on their Dialed In? I'm considering Pingraffix blades or mirrorblades. Pictures are very appreciated!

Led 17? I posted same issue yesterday. Filed a ticket with jjp, will see what they say.

Chaos in Quantum City almost gives me seizures! . Lots of flashing going on with that multi ball mode!

Concerning the reports of playfield scratches, look to the area circled below as one of the other possible causes of damage to balls, which in turn can lead to playfield scratches.

On the most recent DI builds, I believe this piece is being bent slightly to the right, so the tip is positioned somewhat behind the stand up target, and balls can no longer strike the edge directly.

DILE (resized).jpg

Appreciate it

I have mirror blades installed, they are tight though.

Well spotted, just checked mine and that edge is very exposed, I’ll be bending mine in.

I have mirror blades on mine. Clearance is not an issue. I used bw blades and the holes didn't line up. Not sure if I got a bad batch because I have bw blades on my hobbit and woz, no issues. I had to elongate the holes with a large drill bit using my drill press. They look great.

Will check this on mine tonight

That's it

Interesting. I'll have to check mine.

Quick question about the theatre. If you take a shot at the theatre, and it doesn't make it all the way up and around the turn, does the ball roll down for a sdtm drain?

Mine happens 90% of the time.

Same here the screw blocks it a but as you can see in the picture of mine they are all on around the bottom edge of the bezel where it catches the light.

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I see three behaviors on theater shots
1) catch and release e.g. EMP - ball rolls down to the left flipper
2) catch and toss e.g., 'target in the theater' ball is caught and tossed up and around to upper flipper
3) nothing e.g. trying to shoot thorough the theater and not enough speed to make it ball drains SDTM pretty often

Personally, I think this is how it should be. Doesn't stop me from cussing when #3 happens.

Problem is that I also get a significant amount of sdtm on #1.

Might play around with magnet settings in 1.52.

And #2 is far from consistent on many machines despite the settings. I tried different setting and it works more often than not. But not 100%. I also found that every ball is a bit different. Some worked at -80 and others didn’t. Since there are 5 balls, you have that variability. At first I thought it was just my machine but then I saw that many see this. Just today, I saw this on tilt forums from Ted, the lead programmer. I wish I knew this prior to banging my head numerous times.

“Regarding the “catch and toss” behavior:
I put the functionality in as an experiment. I couldn’t get it to work consistently on my development game, and expected that I would likely disable the function before production. However, it worked well enough on a handful of prototype games that I decided to leave it in.
The tossing works by releasing the ball, then pulsing the magnet after delay while the ball rolls away from the magnet. That delay is adjustable in Magnet Test.
For the tossing to be reliable, the ball motion as it rolls off the magnet has to be fairly consistent. I haven’t figured out what conditions contribute to inconsistency. Some games work better than others, but I’m sure that the behavior for any particular game is subject to change over time because of dirt, wear, etc.
–Ted”

To the extent that one makes the proper shot correctly (scenarios 1 and 2) it would be extremely frustrating to have it go SDTM. Fortunately (knock on wood), mine is very consistent. Does it occasionally not do what it is supposed to? Maybe, probably, but it is so rare that I've not noticed. so it has to be fewer than 1 in 20 times.

Here is how that piece is now being bent at the factory to prevent ball damage.

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Seems like putting a blue bumper on the end would be better than bending the stainless.

Yes, something like what they used on Monster Bash.

Does anyone have a part number. I'm in the process of putting in an order with Pinball Life.

Would this work?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6766