Just cut it with an exacto knife
Quoted from TheLaw:Just cut it with an exacto knife
I know that part but the theater magnet is under the theater. I was asking the best way to access the magnet so it could be cut with knife. I read that someone suggested removing magnet from underside of playfield and then cutting Mylar from below. I haven’t seen instructions and efforts for removing theater to access from above.
Quoted from PinLen83:Test lab and game play results are totally different. Test lab will nudge the ball after release, in gameplay it will go stdm. I even made sure it saved the setting at -60. I'll probably go a bit more towards the negative side as was suggested. Didn't really want the ball to be tossed over to the side flipper which is what happened if I went towards 90
Its supposed to be tossed over to upper flipper
Quoted from Insanity199:I know that part but the theater magnet is under the theater. I was asking the best way to access the magnet so it could be cut with knife. I read that someone suggested removing magnet from underside of playfield and then cutting Mylar from below. I haven’t seen instructions and efforts for removing theater to access from above.
+1 ... I looked at that theater removal for this too and thought there has to be a super easy way to cut that Mylar. If not, I gotta find it in the manual.
Quoted from crwjumper:Yes, remove the theater. First remove the upper playfield, then there are just two fasteners to remove the theatre. A nut in front and another in back. It's not that hard.
When you are under there, make sure that the magnet is absolutley flush with the playfield. Mine wasn't and that was what was causing my mylar to rip. Once it's flush you can replace the mylar and your issues will dissapear! JJP will send you new mylar if you call and ask.
Or just use an exacto knife.
I need a break. The more I play the more it sucks.
I think I found the JJP’s GB
Just for my information, who has removed the vuk cliffy? Snaroff said vuk shot was easier without it. Who could confirm?
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I need a break. The more I play the more it sucks.
I think I found the JJP’s GB
Just for my information, who has removed the vuk cliffy? Snaroff said vuk shot was easier without it. Who could confirm?
Not every game is for everyone. I love my DI and actually have been playing GB more lately. Both great games.
I have not seem much of a difference with or without the cliffy.
Quoted from Insanity199:I am now having theater throw problems too.
When I got my Dialed In 1.5 weeks ago, I adjusted the theater magnet and thought I had the magnet set correctly. It seemed to throw around very well after my initial adjustment to -75. Now, 1.5 weeks later, I was noticing that it grabbed the ball, pulsed and actually threw it downward a bit. (Yes, this was in something like package drop that is supposed to whip it around). I then readjusted with the magnet test and got it working. Then in gameplay, it acted up again. I then tried so many settings during the magnet test with no consistency that the magnet actually stopped working completely for 5 or so minutes. I can only assume that it overheated.
I now have it working that it slowly throws it around but I have no faith that it will work again tomorrow. I am almost afraid to touch the settings. This is really bizarre. Could it be that my magnet is overheating and affecting the performance with gameplay? I have a call into Frank but I am completely puzzled as to why I would see such varied and inconsistent behavior.
I was told in another thread it could be due to the Mylar still over the magnet and I need to cut it out. I looked at it and it does appear to be bubbling and cracking a bit around the magnet but not terribly. Could that really be causing this kind of inconsistency?
If so, what is the best way to remove. I read that taking magnet out from underneath playfield is the easiest.
Other than that I just have cosmetic issues. Game came with shattered lightning bolt, disconnected BOB sign (plastic connectors broken) and scratched glass right above BOB. JJP is taking care of those.
Love the game and SIM is a pain but we have all made it with a direct upper flipper shot. But definitely not a consistent and reputable performance.
That's interesting. My glass also came scratched directly over the area where the lightning bolts move left and right. Near exact diagonal track of the bolts and scratches on the underside of the glass. What was the outcome of your conversations with jjp on this?
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I need a break. The more I play the more it sucks.
I think I found the JJP’s GB
Just for my information, who has removed the vuk cliffy? Snaroff said vuk shot was easier without it. Who could confirm?
Here is what the v2 Cliffy looked like installed. As you can see, the corners have a slight lift which leads to more rejects. Cliffy sent me a v3, but I haven't installed it. I prefer the way it shoots without the protection, and the hole has no damage after many plays (unlike the SIM card hole, which is very fragile).
snaroff
Quoted from Insanity199:I know that part but the theater magnet is under the theater. I was asking the best way to access the magnet so it could be cut with knife. I read that someone suggested removing magnet from underside of playfield and then cutting Mylar from below. I haven’t seen instructions and efforts for removing theater to access from above.
That's what I did and it worked great. I have no mylar on either magnet. Both of my magnets needed to be lowered quite a bit. Now that they are level with the PF, I don't anticipate any damage. Not really a bit fan of mylar for home use games. I shop my games every 50-100 plays and have never had an issue with wear around magnets.
snaroff
Quoted from snaroff:Here is what the v2 Cliffy looked like installed. As you can see, the corners have a slight lift which leads to more rejects. Cliffy sent me a v3, but I haven't installed it. I prefer the way it shoots without the protection, and the hole has no damage after many plays (unlike the SIM card hole, which is very fragile).
snaroff
That usually happens when you tighten the contact points too tight. They should just be barely tight. Mine does not look like this, it lays flat.
Quoted from PinMonk:That usually happens when you tighten the contact points too tight. They should just be barely tight. Mine does not look like this.
Perhaps, but I showed the photo to Cliffy and he didn't advise loosening the posts. If they are "barely tight", they will loosen quickly. In any event, glad yours don't have any lift!
snaroff
Quoted from snaroff:Perhaps, but I showed the photo to Cliffy and he didn't advise loosening the posts. If they are "barely tight", they will loosen quickly. In any event, glad yours don't have any lift!
snaroff
They won't loosen. The nuts holding them under the playfield grab well. The one here is on location with many hundreds or over a thousand plays since I put on the v2 and I haven't had to re-tighten them.
What’s involved in lowering magnet with relation to playfield. It seems only 3 screws hold it to the underside of playfield.
Quoted from Insanity199:What’s involved in lowering magnet with relation to playfield. It seems only 3 screws hold it to the underside of playfield.
Here's a post I made that might help. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96
There is a huge nut that needs to be loosened. Mine was extremely difficult to loosen/adjust. Hopefully yours won't be as tight.
snaroff
Quoted from Insanity199:I know that part but the theater magnet is under the theater. I was asking the best way to access the magnet so it could be cut with knife. I read that someone suggested removing magnet from underside of playfield and then cutting Mylar from below. I haven’t seen instructions and efforts for removing theater to access from above.
Well then I'll post the guide right now........
1) Lift your playfield all the way up.
2) Unscrew the 3 screws holding the theatre magnet assembly in place. Wiggle it a bit as you remove it, since it will be detaching from the mylar above the playfield.
3) Get an exacto knife and using the tip, from under the playfield carefully cut the hole out where the magnet was, being careful to get it all so when you put the magnet back, there isn't any resting on the magnet. It is easier to do this using the tip of the blade rather than sticking the whole blade through.
4) Place the magnet assembly back in place, and attach the 3 screws.
5) Stick your finger into the theatre area and press down the remaining mylar so it does not curl up or flake.
The entire process should take 5 minutes.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:I need a break. The more I play the more it sucks.
I think I found the JJP’s GB
Hey-O!
Quoted from snaroff:Here is what the v2 Cliffy looked like installed. As you can see, the corners have a slight lift which leads to more rejects. Cliffy sent me a v3, but I haven't installed it. I prefer the way it shoots without the protection, and the hole has no damage after many plays (unlike the SIM card hole, which is very fragile).
snaroff
Mine looks like this v2 one as I don’t know how looks v3
I will try without it.
Quoted from TheLaw:Hey-O!
Great layout but right now I find it artificially hard coz of what you know
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Great layout but right now I find it artificially hard coz of what you know
How much time have you spent with the glass off the game, just letting that ball roll down and practice that shot?
Thanks to all on theater Mylar advice. I sure hope that removing it from magnet will solve the inconsistent behavior that has begun.
For what it is worth, I have no problems making he VUK phone shot with factory protectors. Can make the shot forehand and backhand.
Quoted from TheLaw:How much time have you spent with the glass off the game, just letting that ball roll down and practice that shot?
0 min glass off...but 50% of my vuk shots are in the center but I don’t understand why they are rejected that is why I say artificially. This is not normal...this is the most important shot with SIM card shot (that you can’t really succeed intentionally)...never had any problem with vuk shot in another game before.
Quoted from Insanity199:Thanks to all on theater Mylar advice. I sure hope that removing it from magnet will solve the inconsistent behavior that has begun.
For what it is worth, I have no problems making he VUK phone shot with factory protectors. Can make the shot forehand and backhand.
What is you rate to do it?
Hey guys! New DILE owner! My game arrived today and was built 1/15/18. The game arrived perfect and playes well. I have the factory cliffies and have not found any issues in hitting either hole, however I do prefer banking the SIM card shot off the target to the left and right of the theatre.
With that said. I do have some questions for everyone. When I cancel multiball and continue to play, when I lose a ball and then at about to start playing the next ball, it will not allow me to cancel out. I have to play the ball and then start multiball to get back to qualifying modes.... this seems wrong, is this normal behavior?
Quoted from VividPsychosis:Hey guys! New DILE owner! My game arrived today and was built 1/15/18. The game arrived perfect and playes well. I have the factory cliffies
Are they REAL Cliffies from the factory?!! Can you take a couple pics?
Quoted from VividPsychosis:Hey guys! New DILE owner! My game arrived today and was built 1/15/18. The game arrived perfect and playes well. I have the factory cliffies and have not found any issues in hitting either hole, however I do prefer banking the SIM card shot off the target to the left and right of the theatre.
With that said. I do have some questions for everyone. When I cancel multiball and continue to play, when I lose a ball and then at about to start playing the next ball, it will not allow me to cancel out. I have to play the ball and then start multiball to get back to qualifying modes.... this seems wrong, is this normal behavior?
Only one opportunity to cancel mb and start a mode with it......thats how it sld be imo. If u screw up u sldnt get another chance .
Quoted from VividPsychosis:No, not real cliffys, I have no issues making shots though. However I am sitting right now after locking a ball trying to cancel out of MB and it won’t let me....
Oh, haha, got me worked up there for a minute!
I didn’t screw up. I started a mode, completed it without multiball. Then I drained, and it wouldn’t let me cancel before going to the next ball and starting a mode. If that’s how it’s suppose to be, that’s cool. Now I know I must cancel it only once. I thought you could keep canceling until it was a full multiball.....
Well, I bit the bullet and changed my SIM card setting to carry over. First game I’ve ever had to set up to make easier. Feel a tad guilty, but Ive been playing it a lot lately and no matter what I do, I cannot make the shot. Whether it’s my game set up or skill, it’s no fun never collecting SIM cards. Even with carryover, it’s still difficult as I have to count on a bank shot. I complete modes a lot, very rarely/almost never collect the SIM card. Seeing the lit insert after I drain feels like I have a better chance to advance.
Quoted from VividPsychosis:What’s this? Getting my game Friday.
Congrats tomorrow on your new DI, that’s exciting!!
Quoted from Lermods:Well, I bit the bullet and changed my SIM card setting to carry over. First game I’ve ever had to set up to make easier. Feel a tad guilty, but Ive been playing it a lot lately and no matter what I do, I cannot make the shot. Whether it’s my game set up or skill, it’s no fun never collecting SIM cards. Even with carryover, it’s still difficult as I have to count on a bank shot. I complete modes a lot, very rarely/almost never collect the SIM card. Seeing the lit insert after I drain feels like I have a better chance to advance.
I did the same thing nothing wrong with making the game more fun that’s why they make the rules adjustable.
Quoted from venom112:I did the same thing nothing wrong with making the game more fun that’s why they make the rules adjustable.
Same here too.
Just got my dialed in set up and the start button didn’t work, seems I have fixed th issue for now.
My big problem is every time the ball goes in the cell phone hole, SIM card hole or up the left orbit the machine has to search for the ball and I get no credit for the shot either. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?
Quoted from estrader:Just got my dialed in set up and the start button didn’t work, seems I have fixed th issue for now.
My big problem is every time the ball goes in the cell phone hole, SIM card hole or up the left orbit the machine has to search for the ball and I get no credit for the shot either. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?
Well it's not registering hits on the switches there so that's a big problem, game is pretty unplayable without them. Go into test mode and make sure it's not activating any switches.
I've actually never looked down there but I'm guessing their optos? Maybe a board isn't connected or something.
If no one answers you can always look in the manual and see what kind of switches to look for.
EDIT: Yeah they're all optos.
Quoted from estrader:Just got my dialed in set up and the start button didn’t work, seems I have fixed th issue for now.
My big problem is every time the ball goes in the cell phone hole, SIM card hole or up the left orbit the machine has to search for the ball and I get no credit for the shot either. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?
Sounds like that the connector for those is unplugged. I would check under the playfield first but it’s possible that something got loose during shipping in the backbox where the boards reside. TheLaw is right it’s all optos in there so should be something simple like a plug.
Quoted from PinLen83:Just started having STDM from the theater. Adjusted the magnet to -60, no effect. Up until the last 20 games, it would nudge the ball after catching it 100% of the time
Fixed and working the way I'd like it to!
Quoted from PinLen83:Fixed and working the way I'd like it to!
What was your fix? Have you removed Mylar on magnets?
Quoted from Insanity199:What was your fix? Have you removed Mylar on magnets?
Went from 0, back to -60, and magically its working. I'm going to remove the mylar also when i get a chance this weekend. Didnt think it would last long RIGHT ON TOP of the magnet. Great idea...poorly thought out lol
15 SIM card collections in 45 games. I seem to be able to hit it alright from straight shot or bank. Could it be easier? Sure. But it’s drfinitely doable.
I’d say about 20 of those games I didn’t complete a mode at all.
Quoted from VividPsychosis:15 SIM card collections in 45 games. I seem to be able to hit it alright from straight shot or bank. Could it be easier? Sure. But it’s drfinitely doable.
I’d say about 20 of those games I didn’t complete a mode at all.
I'd love to see someone take some video of feeding themselves the ball to the upper flipper over and over again and making the SIM shot (not singling you out here, just a call out to anyone who says they can make the SIM shot from the upper flipper).
Could there be slight variances to the placement of the posts, or something else that causes some machines to make it insanely hard to hit it?
Quoted from brucipher:Could there be slight variances to the placement of the posts, or something else that causes some machines to make it insanely hard to hit it?
If you have the JJP protector installed, the shot is much harder to hit and very hard to get roll-ins. With the Cliffy-brand installed, shots from the flipper are no different than no protector, and roll-ins are about 80% of what you'd get w/o it. No protector of course is how Pat designed the game so I play with no protector.
I can make the SIM shot from the upper right flipper about 50% of the time. It's really just the timing of where the ball is on the flipper. About 2/3 down is where the sweet spot is. I've made the shot several times in a row by accident trying to hit the Big Bang instead. I wish it was like TAF where simply holding the upper flipper would result in a hit to Big Bang/Cousin It. But I digress.
I've owned a DI LE for about 4 months now.
It has the factory installed protector on the SIM card hole- I have only successfully hit that shot from the upper flipper a couple of times.
I also recently installed the factory phone scoop protector. That shot now is about twice more difficult than without the protector.
I have just ordered the full cliffy set; and will be very interested (and hopeful) that it will make both the Sim Card & Phone scoops easier to hit.
Now in saying this, I love this game even with the current level of difficulty on both the scoops.
One final comment, before upgrading to 1.52, my theatre magnet, set at -90, successfully launched the ball up and around to the upper flipper on a regular basis.
After 1.52, and changing the magnet setting to -90, the magnet definitely behaves very differently; with a lower percentage of balls being launched off the magnet to the upper flipper. I have adjusted the theatre magnet setting percentages many times, but simply can not get the same success rate as before the code update.
Regardless, it's just made the magnet a bit more unpredictable- which isn't necessarily that big a deal.
Quoted from JMK:I've owned a DI LE for about 4 months now.
It has the factory installed protector on the SIM card hole- I have only successfully hit that shot from the upper flipper a couple of times.
I also recently installed the factory phone scoop protector. That shot now is about twice more difficult than without the protector.
I have just ordered the full cliffy set; and will be very interested (and hopeful) that it will make both the Sim Card & Phone scoops easier to hit.
Now in saying this, I love this game even with the current level of difficulty on both the scoops.
One final comment, before upgrading to 1.52, my theatre magnet, set at -90, successfully launched the ball up and around to the upper flipper on a regular basis.
After 1.52, and changing the magnet setting to -90, the magnet definitely behaves very differently; with a lower percentage of balls being launched off the magnet to the upper flipper. I have adjusted the theatre magnet setting percentages many times, but simply can not get the same success rate as before the code update.
Regardless, it's just made the magnet a bit more unpredictable- which isn't necessarily that big a deal.
Did my best score this afternoon (2.4m), feel better the shots, but I loose a ball on trying to hit this vuk shot.
Easier in backhand for me
So Let us know about cliffy set. thanks
Anyone in the Richmond or surrounding area that can come help me fix my trap door? It’s acting up and not closing as it should. I don’t want it to burn out the coil. I can pay ya for the repair or give ya beer and we can play. Also, I will be making a video, doing 100 shots on the upper Flipper to see how many times I make the SIM card shot. I did just have my first 2mill+ game with 3 cards.
Quoted from TheLaw:Well it's not registering hits on the switches there so that's a big problem, game is pretty unplayable without them. Go into test mode and make sure it's not activating any switches.
I've actually never looked down there but I'm guessing their optos? Maybe a board isn't connected or something.
If no one answers you can always look in the manual and see what kind of switches to look for.
EDIT: Yeah they're all optos.
Thanks for the help. It was an opto that was out of place on the phone scoop. I had to swing the black plastic piece back around the correct way and push the opto back in the hole.
It does seem when the theater magnet releases the ball that it goes sdtm. Is the fix to change the magnet settings? I cant believe the game was coded for this to happen every time.
Quoted from estrader:Is the fix to change the magnet settings?
Go into Tests - Theater Magnet - and change it. I set mine to -90, others have used different settings.
LTG : )
Quoted from JayLar:Hi all! Just got a Dialed In Standard Edition and the start button assembly was hanging loose inside. I can't make it stick in the hole where it's supposed to be. See image where I've put it in the hole. Is there any parts missing?
You just need to twist and push a little harder so it will snap in. Start at about 11 o
clock and twist to the 12 o'clock position as you push in. When you get it, it will click.
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