Its not non sense....that switch is a total pain in the ass....

I'll look at it again, but I'm pretty sure when I spent a week on and off adjusting it so it worked every time perfectly I checked to see if there was room for optos, and there was a way. What's there now sucks. Fine once you get it adjusted, but adjusting initially is a PAIN.

I believe tz rocket switch and fh skill shot use the same set up also.... so there must be another reason on top of not much room topside . My machine has been great so far after 800 games. The left side wall of the skill shot is also the right side of the theater wall ...so no way to put a opto on that side unfortunately.

Still pretty sure opto would work, but if not that, then a proximity sensor. Anything but the crappy switch type in there now that was a terrible choice.

Does anyone have some common DI fixes bookmarked? There are no key posts in this topic to do with straightening the BOB targets, and all the other small fixes people are doing.
I have read them all over a couple of months but now that I actually need to do them all I can't find them!

Optos need to be ABOVE the playfield in the path of the ball. There's no room there. Also, you completely ignored the fact that switches like that have been used for decades. Also there's the fact that it WORKS JUST FINE when you adjust the switch. It's like you have some sort of blindness on a subject and cannot adjust your thinking ever.

It makes perfect sense because that's the only place it would fit. They took it off the door to save the outrageous cost of the custom door and also make room for the bill validator. The power box is in the way on the other side, it can't go under the shooter rod because then the cord interferes with the shooter, and the lockdown bar mech blocks it higher up.

Do you think these guys are just blindly putting things places and shrugging? They are professionals with decades of experience and you're some armchair critic on the internet.

Did they make some mistakes? Sure, nothing's perfect. But don't sit there and pretend you know more about making pinball than Pat Lawlor. C'mon.

Now that I've removed the mylar, it's easier to see the height of the magnet.

Seems high to me...I believe it's suppose to be level with the PF.

Any experience lowering the magnet? The mechanism is adjustable, but it seems like you need a vice to be successful (pretty heavy duty nut that hold the magnet into place).

Thanks for any help, hope this explains why I'm getting so many drains.

snaroff

IMG_8222 (resized).jpg

I owned both, and I didn't find the LED's on the ramp to be a big deal.. mainly because there is so much going on in this machine and so much flash everywhere. This is overall a very bright machine with a ton of insert lights and GI's. The ramp lights certainly are a nice touch, but it wasn't a main factor for me. The LE is a pretty decent upgrade for $1K, but if you don't feel like spending the $1K, I don't think you'll ever miss it. This isn't like Tron LE where you really notice the lighted ramps IMO.

Here's a pic of both side by side and a video I shot of them:

Screen Shot 2017-11-24 at 10.25.53 AM (resized).png

Any suggestions how to "unstick" my start button? Ever since we got the machine in July the start button has been a bit odd - sometimes you have to hit it 2-3 times to get it to register. Since the 1.5 update we started getting an error when booting up the machine that switch #D25 (start button) is stuck closed.

Not too experienced with repairs so any advice is appreciated!

Osh

Make sure the rear button housing is straight in and clicked on firmly so that the arms hit the microswitch button straight and cleanly

I know how optos work.

If multiple people are having problems out of the box (and they are), it's not "just fine". I remotely helped another new owner spend over an hour adjusting it until it worked yesterday. This is not a one off problem. It's a crappy switch choice. We had rotary dial phones at one time. They were used for decades and WORKED JUST FINE. Should we go back to them?

And even if there's no room for an opto, there are other solutions like proximity sensors. Anything but that crap switch.

Funny, that's what Jack did when I asked about the weird placement in person. Literally shrugged and said Pat wanted it there. It's not the only solution for placement, and having done plenty of custom overseas manufacture myself, I sincerely doubt the cost at quantity for that WoZ door was "outrageous."

Oops.

The fact that you have an issue and 4 other people out of 800 or so games does not show a systemic problem. The switch choice is fine. You sound like that sarnoff guy who thinks anything that's not the way he thinks it should be is a design flaw.

Marvin, I've had several pretty tricky issues dialing in my Dialed In. Turns out that most of them ended up being build related (missing part, ramp installed incorrectly, magnet installed incorrectly, ramp switches reversed, etc.). When it's unclear why the pinball isn't working correctly, it's sometimes difficult to distinguish between design and build issues. Your advice on the ramp issue was misguided, so while I appreciated your help at first, it's not worth your trolling and BS (so please find someone else to "help"). See ya!

snaroff

Do you? Because you seem to think they don't require any space to fit.

So it works, does it? This seems more like an assembly issue (ie. prepping parts during assembly) than a design issue, since it WORKS.

JJP doesn't currently have proximity sensors as part of their kit, so it would take time and effort to: find them, test them, design circuits to read them, program software to read them, design mechs to hold them, etc.

Or, you could put a standard switch there.

Sounds smart of Jack to me, since he's not a pinball designer and has no hardware design experience, to defer to the guy with 30 years of experience.

So a custom part with custom wiring is cheaper than the bog-standard door the entire industry uses and is produced in the millions? Yeah I'm sure it's only $3 difference when they order them in batches of 1,000.

The thing is, you're looking at one part - a single switch - in isolation when the design of a game is an exercise in compromise. Change one part, suddenly five others need to move, then you need to customize a standard part to make it fit, and your BOM goes up. Then those changes need to be tested, or software changed, etc. A pinball machine has many thousands of parts all working together, especially something as packed as DI, and you need to consider the whole machine when changing stuff.

Then there's cost factors. What are you going to give up to afford that thing you want? Optos are more expensive than switches.

It's really frustrating that you, someone who has never even built a single game, are questioning the design decisions of someone who created the best selling game of all time. It's not a blanket license that everything he does is gold, but it's a pretty good indicator he might be making more informed decisions than you, who has zero years experience.

Build Quality!

That's probably a little high, but it should definitely be slightly above the pf otherwise the pf edge will wear.

It's easy to adjust - just need a big flathead and wrench. Just experiment with the thread directions.

Just put a down payment on a DI this will be the first machine for my family can't wait

I am on the fence anybody that just got the game with the latest code have impressions. I am looking at Star Wars I like guardians of the galaxy. I know the code is bad right now but where would you rank dialed in? Is it worth 8k or 9k when you can get a stern for between 5-7k depending on the model? Dialed in looks amazing but is it worth the extra money??

Are there going to be further code updates to dialed in ??

It’s not even close between di and sw. haven’t played gotg, but I doubt very much it will be anywhere near the quality and game play of di.

Dile=best pin released in last 20+ years imo....

Cool thanks for the opinions by watching gameplay I was thinking the same thing despite people not loving the theme when it was first shown it looks like the best gameplay on a pin in some time.

Thats a question you have to answer yourself, cool game, but will you have just as much fun with a 5.5k game vs a 9k one?

I would like to have a DI too, but am having a hard time justifying it, will probably wait a year till pirates is in full swing and buy used.

Yeah that’s the thing 9k vs 5 or 6k is a big difference. I am trying to justify the price too. I will say the game looks like more fun then most though.

Ive owned tons of b/w pins and many top stern pins.... dile is that much better and only game i play since i bought it. So much so im selling off most of my collection bc everything else just isnt as fun to play...

Dialed In was my first and only pin for a few months and it never got boring. So many layers, so much to discover. The most recent update makes an already amazing game even better.

Thanks anyone know if the software is done or do you think the code is done?

Congrats and welcome! Nice first game. Plenty of help on here to get it "Dialed In" when you finally get it.

This....

SW & DI are so completely diff'rent it's hard to pit them against each other....so I won't.
I will say SW is an awesome game, and it's a Stern and feels like a stern and plays fantastic.
For as much as you hear people say "DI is total throwback to 90s W/B etc," it's 100% true and it's impossible not to have fun playing it.

8K+ is a lot though.

this is your opinion.
I play my games cyclically and I can’t stop playing one game during that time and without playing anything else.
I recently traded my wh2o + money with a DI LE ( will get it in January) and I am sure I will play it again and again like any new game. But what I already know, is a funnier and more humorous game than MM is not yet born. (..ok in my opinion).

Thanks for the response! JJP support confirmed it needed to be lowered. The huge nut was on REALLY tight, which made it much more difficult to adjust. In any event, it's perfectly level with the PF and I'm still getting cheap, frustrating SDTM drains during "catch and release" events. The "catch and fling" (backward) events work great.

snaroff

IMG_8293 (resized).jpg

Thanks will give that a try when the wife wakes up

Now that you have the magnet adjusted properly, put the Mylar on and then adjust the throwback timing again. Moving the magnet changes the timing reaction for the ball. And the Mylar is good protection. If JJP didn’t think so they would not have included it and saved the money.

Will do the fact that it's my first pin I'm going to need it

I understand the benefits of Mylar, but getting the machine to play well is currently my focus. I'll definitely add mylar when I get some (not something I "stock"

Based on what I've learned from threads and JJP, the "throwback" timing effects the throwback (which is separate from the "catch and release"). I don't believe there are any software adjustments for "catch and release"...would love to be wrong on this one and fix my SDTM drains!

snaroff

Same ball hangup happened to me...needed to take the glass off. So far, only happened once.

IMG_8203 (resized).jpg

Not done. There are lots more things they want to do in terms of effects and tweaks.

Ok. Officially joined the club for a month or so while I mind someones machine for them. This game is beyond beautiful in a dark room. I think i put over 100 game on it in well lit environment but this was the first time I got to play at home. Amazing. Crazy!

So some issues maybe you guys and girls can help with.

1. Started a ticket about this but thought i would post here too.
Mr QED doesn't move.
- both Optos are fine.
- Fuses are fine
- Plug is in!
- Tested in Device tests with high power activated
- Voltage tested at plug, first 2 pins = 11.7v on my cheap multimeter
- Voltage at motor relay = 11.7v
- Voltage at the 'lugs' on the motor is 11.7v
- Is the motor faulty? Is there anything else I can try

2. This machine has a playfield protector installed from factory. The right orbit/ramp sometimes seems to reject around the same area there the SKILL shot is. Does anyone have this is or any tips on how to fix? Is this normal

3. Theatre is draining SDTM, the setting is set to -80 on 1.50 code which i think people suggested. Am I going up or down to get it right?

4. The left ramp plastic seems to be hanging behind the closest 'lite big bang' target. Which means when the target it hit the target gets jammed underneath it and I have a stuck switch. The machine has had the JJP protectors installed (scoop is HORRIBLE getting that changed asap, sim card seems fine) installed and maybe everything wasn't assembled the best... I loosened the right ramp entrance screw a little and it seemed to fix the issue but with both screws all the way down it seems like its not right!

20171126_212403 (resized).jpg

My Big Bang targets are just like that but register fine. Please find a sdtm fix. Mine is killing the fun.

I've been working on my magnet behavior without much success. It's important to know there are 2 primary magnet behaviors..."catch and release" and "catch and toss". The setting you are altering effects the "toss" backwards behavior (which works fine on my machine). You can test your using the Theatre Magnet Test diagnostic (https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0dGrhkPxG2TCix).

The "catch and release" is what burns me. Here is some more info on the topic: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/jersey-jack-pinball-woz/F_TTrGjIixo

At this point, constant drains are the only remaining annoyance with my machine. Otherwise, it's shooting great now (after many tweaks which I will soon post).

snaroff

Maybe lean the pin slightly to the left? Just raise the back right leg a thread or two? Just enough to drop ball to tip of left flipper.

Call JJP about the Mylar. The magnet not being adjusted properly from the factory is why your Mylar tore. They will replace if for free. As for the drains, check your side to side level. Adjust it as needed to resolve this. Won’t take much.

Hmmm, my catch and release action always drops the ball to the edge of the right flipper. Only very, very rarely will the ball drain SDTM. I made sure my playfield was very level when I set it up. I assume, by design, it should drop to the flipper and not sdtm.

Perhaps your playfield has some anomilious warpage? Just a thought.

Weird... mine drops to left... lol

Right, Left, SDTM...not very deterministic On average, I lose 1 ball per game to "catch and release".

Seems to have gotten worse with 1.5, though Ted claims this part of the code hasn't been modified.

It would be useful to hear from JJP regarding what the pin is designed to do.

snaroff

Maybe pat l will chime in and let us know what it was designed to do...