Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

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#8183 4 years ago

Nokoro

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Quoted from branlon8:
Sometimes (not always) when I‘m playing the mode „Fire“, Betty the Quantum mechanic’s Arm is down so it becomes impossible to complete the left ramp. Anybody else have that? Occasionally at start up I get an error message about the arm, but the diagnostics all seem to indicate everything is ok.

The arm goes down when lock is lit, but you should still be able to complete the left ramp shot. Have you gone into switch test mode and checked the switches associated with the shot? Also, what is the exact error message you get?

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#8202 4 years ago

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Quoted from PjM:
What does/purpose of the bluetooth doggle have in the game? Mine stopped working.

Just curious, but how do you know it stopped working if you don't know what it is for?

Mine always worked fine. It is kind of a cool feature, but not really the way I prefer to play.

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#8205 4 years ago

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Quoted from PjM:
Your bluetooth shows up on the test report at startup for game diagnostics. That is how I know it is not working.

Ah, got it.

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#8212 4 years ago

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Quoted from Mbecker:
Not preferred but I’ve played with my wife that way to even the playing field (so to speak). Problem is you have the Big Bang button right there on the phone - big advantage if lit

True, but it is so hard to be accurate with your shots without having your hands on the physical buttons that it almost justifies the Big Bang button.

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#8217 4 years ago

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Quoted from splitcms:
I just got the game and was wondering what the best code is to update to? It came with 1.57 already and a friend mentioned that the latest code has some issues. Thank you

Just wait. Some people have had issues with the new code, others have not. 1.57 has all the rules so there is no need to rush to update. Wait until the next release which hopefully will remove any bugs.

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#8255 4 years ago

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Quoted from Kevlar:
Any clue as to what will be new in 1.7? if it was just a bug fix release they wouldn't bother streaming it. Can't wait, mine has been getting hammered lately.

I’m hoping at least they have made the BOB target lights rotate with the flipper buttons to make it easier to get to the BOB MBs.

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#8314 4 years ago

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It's nice that they are taking care of the bugs and adding some polish, the latter of which wasn't needed but is very much appreciated. I do confess to feeling a bit disappointed that they didn't implement the rotating BOB targets.

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#8393 4 years ago

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Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:
Confirmed. All that. Working 100% perfectly.

What's your build date? I would like to update, but I'm nervous.

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#8431 4 years ago

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Ugh. I have the 2.8 Celeron processor. I guess I'll wait to update until this can be verified as the problem or the software gets fixed.

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#8476 4 years ago

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For those with issues with inconsistent ball ejects from the phone scoop, I've noticed that my balls get magnetized very quickly in DI, even carbon steel balls. When they start getting magnetized, I don't get good ejects from the scoop. When I swap to fresh balls, I am better again.

I have not upgraded past 1.57 yet, so I'm not trying to say whether it is or is not related to the upgrade. I just wanted to mention this as it may be something that is happening to some of you.

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#8483 4 years ago

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Quoted from Rob_G:
As for the drones, I saw 1.57 had a lot of drone usage going on compared to newer code versions.

They nerfed the drones a bit on 1.6 and up to prolong their life.

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#8562 4 years ago

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I really have no idea about any of this, but I would only offer one piece of caution, that correlation does not alway equal causation. I don't think there are enough data points to really say anything definitive.

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#8566 4 years ago

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Quoted from ralphs007:
Quick question,Is there any good reason I shouldn't store my DI manual, inside of my game cabinet? I'm going to keep it in the box it came in,so it doesn't get metal particles all over it. The thing is like an encyclopedia, and it takes up a lot of space. I'm getting ready to sell my house,and the more clutter I can eliminate the better.

Some people have never removed their stapled manuals, on older non-JJP games, from the cabinet. I would think it is ok as long as it doesn’t press up against anything that would cause it to interfere with the mechs.

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#8831 4 years ago

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Quoted from NeilMcRae:
Fixed the screens - you won’t beleive it! Story later
But now QED man won’t move?! What should I look for?
Thanks,
Neil.

Start by following the connectors. Make sure one didn’t come loose.

Also, does it move in test mode? If so, then it wouldn’t be a connector. Maybe the switch isn’t registering then. Check that in switch test mode.

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#8837 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Simple question: Do all versions of DI have the camera?
I seem to recall someone complaining that the LE didn't have the camera. However, I just searched this thread and didn't see any mention of it. It seems odd the LE wouldn't have it, so I'm guessing I just have poor memory here. But I'd appreciate someone confirming...
... Altan

Yes, they all do. I seem to recall that perhaps only the standards have a flash with the camera, but I may be making that up.

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#8901 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Still cannot believe how incredible Dialed In is!
But nothing's perfect. I've had the ball get temporarily stuck in the playfield slot where the Quantum Electric Guy slides back and forth. Ball hunt fixes it (guy moves to the left and eventually pushes the ball out), but certainly impacts the game's flow!
Is this just a fact of life for Dialed In?

Perhaps try increasing the pitch of the game a bit. It happens every once and a while, but it shouldn't happen too frequently.

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#8961 4 years ago

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Quoted from Tranquilize:
Pretty sure mine flash in selfie mode. I don't see how they'd interact with the cell phone or help with that. Either way, they do seem to help with the camera.

I think all the lights briefly flash white in selfie mode with each switch hit so it seems like a flash.

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#8995 4 years ago

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So, I just had something weird happen. I had one ball physically locked in the Station. I had just started spider spinner. I then hit the phone scoop to start multiball (my first one of the game). The game started MB as normal, ejecting the ball from the scoop and the station. It then proceeded to release the remaining three balls from the trough to start a 5 ball MB, when it should have just been a 2 ball MB. I let three of the balls drain after the ball save timer expired and played the rest of the game like normal.

Could anything mechanical or electronic cause that?

Could it just be a software glitch? I am still on 1.57.

I also seem to recall something weird happening the other day when the game may have released a ball from the Station prematurely, but I can't remember what happened now. I just kind of wrote it off as a weird occurrence.

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#9002 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
One a different topic, I had a small issue with my Dialed In LE. I called JJP support and had a fantastic experience with Stephen Z. Stephen and JJP handled this is the best way possible and we ended up chatting about pinball for a bit afterwards.
Kudos to Stephen/JJP.
... Altan

Steve is awesome! Helped me out many a time.

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#9046 4 years ago

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Quoted from Rob_G:
what is the purpose of Betty diverting the ball like she does (aside from Acid Rain and MWMB)? Why does it happen after a ball lock?

I think it just gives you another obstacle to have to deal with, another change in ball trajectory. I know at times I have to consciously resolve the ball lock to open up that ramp fully.

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#9050 4 years ago

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Quoted from Rob_G:
I think it's a great obstacle in the game! I really like it when I can divert the ball into the pops because the sound is cooler, maybe the scoring is a little better (I'm not sure)? Diverting into the rocket kicker appears to have no additional rule/effect though.
Rob

It is not supposed to divert to the skill shot kicker. It just does on rare occasion.

If it diverts to the upper playfield, through the hole and into the pops, the pops score more than usual. So it is a fun little nudge game to get it there.

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#9053 4 years ago

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I'm missing the reference . . . .

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#9073 4 years ago

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Quoted from SilverWings:
I took delivery of a new LE earlier this year. From my experience so far, nothing in DI really needed to be altered before play. However, there are a few things you might want to keep an eye on:
1) I was seeing recurring issues with balls not feeding in the trough during game play. They seemed to be getting stuck together, and not rolling toward the VUK in there. Problem was the balls were getting magnetized after about 70 games, and so wouldn't roll when grouped together in the trough. The fix is to demagnetize the balls when I see that becoming an issue. I bought a cheap degausser on ebay that does the trick. (pic below) I'm a bit surprised others here aren't reporting this problem... I play with Ball Baron standards and rotate them out for a demagged set about every 70 plays.
2) Mylar covering the Theater and Drone magnets got chewed up after about 500 games. You'll find in the thread here that the best long term fix is simply to cut the mylar away from around these magnets using a brand new X-Acto knife. I did that, and no more issues.
3) Have a good look at the Bob trap door. Run a test on it: when in the UP position, it should NOT hit the wire form ramp going into Station 3. Many here have reported a broken trap door flap due to it hitting the ramp. I'm surprised that would ever happen, since the ramp flap is made from hardened spring steel, but it does happen. It is adjustable if needed... just make sure its not hitting the ramp when the door is raised up. Mine is over 1000 plays now and no issues at all.
4) Take some time setting the game up correctly so you don't get STDM drains when a ball is released out of the Theater. The fix is to simply adjust the right rear leg a bit so the ball doesn't go STDM if released. Mine was doing that, and it was a simple fix.
5) Also on the Theater magnet: the magnet probably will need some setup to properly "toss" the ball up and around to the side. Read up on how to do that and get your magnet strength adjusted correctly for the "toss".
6) Make sure the lightening bolts that the QED guy is holding on to are correctly positioned in his hands. I've read of more than one case where they weren't mounted properly, and wound up causing the $300 InvisiGlass getting scratched. Just be careful about that.
Enjoy the game! Its thoroughly amazing, extremely challenging and always fun.
- Bill.
[quoted image]

As to #1, I use carbon steel balls which shouldn’t magnetize easily, but DI has such crazy magnet activity, that I find the need to swap them as much as you. I too am curious how well the de-magnetizer works. Do you have a link to where you can get it?

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#9080 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Or just buy new pinballs.
How many games are occurring before you see signs of magnetism?
I'd guess it needs to be a LOT. I'm pretty sure my DI has 2000+ plays on the current pinballs and they are not magnetized.

I would say mine start sticking to the trough every 75-100 games or so.

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#9082 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Wow.
I'm wondering if we are finding out that some Carbon Steel pinballs are more pure than others.

My ones from pinballlife, which I don’t think they sell anymore, seemed to last longer than the ones from Ball Baron.

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#9209 4 years ago

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Quoted from Skyemont:
Let me try reformatting it. I did delete everything on the usb stick but did not reformat it.

Deleting it probably means it’s still there. Reformatting should completely wipe it and will likely help.

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#9267 4 years ago

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Quoted from RoyF:
Left ramp shots on my DI-LE no longer loop all the way around. The culprit is the switch just prior to the Betty diverter. The blade on the switch hangs low, low enough such that when the ball contacts it the tip of the blade hangs up on the bottom rail of the ramp, and the ball bounces off the switch blade and back onto the playfield.
Manipulating the switch by hand shows that there is quite a bit of slop in the blade action. Keeping in mind that the switch is mounted horizontally, there is quite a bit of up / down play in the switch. Is that normal? The switch blade is properly fitted onto the switch body on the top (can see it), and seems like it is properly fitted onto the bottom of the switch body too, but I haven't disassembled yet to get access to the switch mounting or the bottom of the switch.
Has anyone else had this problem? Did you end up needing to add a shim between the switch and it's ramp mounting tab to cause the switch blade to sit a bit higher?[quoted image]

My guess is the mounting bracket. Perhaps a screw fell out, and it is being held in by one screw and slowly sinking lower and lower. When I got my WOZ, one of the microswitches only had one screw in the bracket, and it eventually came loose and got out of position. I would definitely check.

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#9281 4 years ago

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Quoted from Kingpin22:
I noticed a little wrinkling on my DILE cabinet, while I was playing one on location I noticed that there was a small cushion between the leg and the cab on there pinball machine. The operator said this came like that from the factory, the Willie Wonka also had this. I haven’t seen anything posted in this thread about it and want to prevent further damage. Does anyone know anything about this?[quoted image]

Yes, mine has the cushion. If yours is missing it, call JJP, and I'm sure they can send you them.

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#9333 4 years ago

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Quoted from NightTrain:
No it doesn't bother me that much. I've only played the newest code anyhow. I just think it's nuts that others don't care. They bought the game new, paid for this feature, it's shit so JJP codes it out, and people are just cool with it.
Damn...I need more customers like that. What a win win!

If they put the drones in as non-operational and merely decorative, no one would complain. I think the mistake was trying to have them operational. There’s no way those tiny motors would last for very long in a pin. I turned mine off and couldn’t care less.

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#9389 4 years ago

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Quoted from oropuro:
Can someone give me a rundown of the must do mods? Or adjustments? Getting a standard and want it to be all it can be! Also anyone have alternative characters to replace big lady or lightning guy?

What?! Don’t use alternative characters! Betty and QED are awesome.

The game really doesn’t need any mods. I’m sure there are some out there, but i wouldn’t call any must do.

One of the first adjustments you should do is to cut the Mylar around the two small circular magnets at the theater and by the drones. They will get shredded. Other than that, see how it plays and what you may need to do. Most issues are addressed in the key notes section of this thread, so I would just recommend reading through that.

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#9476 4 years ago

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Quoted from NightTrain:
Does anyone else feel like the flippers in this game are weak? I’ve got mine turned up and sometimes this game just feels slow. Then I play one of my sterns and it is night and day different. Am I crazy here???
Everything in this game feels a bit slow.

Crank them up more. Increase the pitch of the playfield. The game can be quite fast.

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#9495 4 years ago

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Found a potential bug, or overlooked item. When you play DI with the phone app, you can't switch the disaster modes on the phone in the game. I guess they take an actual push of a physical flipper button. I know this is probably low on the list of the developers' priorities, but I figured I would mention it.

My phone app has always worked well with the game on all version of the code. I have an iPhone. I never use it, but it is kind of a cool feature to try every once and a while.

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#9518 4 years ago

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Quoted from forgetthegouge:
New Dialed In LTD EDT just arrived - bumpers pop without a ball hitting them
Can anyone tell me how to fix this please ?

How often? Constantly or just randomly?

If the latter, it could just be that the switches are gapped too close. Go into switch test mode and bang around the playfield with your fist to see if the vibration triggers those bumper switches. If not, please provide more details about when it happens in the game. What else is going on?

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#9546 4 years ago

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Quoted from adol75:
I really dig that game more and more, I end up only playing Dialed In at my location that has 50+ pinballs.
The one thing I still don’t get is the “upper” playfield, the transparent piece on top of the pop bumbers. There’s a hole in the middle but I dont see any opto or through and going in it doesnt seem to do anything.

It's just a nudge game. If the diverter is down and you can get the ball to go through the hole, the pops are worth the same amount as super pops I believe.

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#9549 4 years ago

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Quoted from Gogdog:
You don't have to hit the left ramp though...a direct shot into the pops works too for acid rain's initial phase, then its left ramps to complete.

Correct.

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#9552 4 years ago

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Quoted from Gogdog:
Your mileage may vary on that though...I don't think no matter how hard it goes up the left ramp on mine, with the diverter down it almost always goes to upper playfield for me, instead of "bouncing back" towards the skill shot kicker...

Yeah, I think mine has done that only once or twice. Definitely not normal for me.

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#9589 4 years ago

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Quoted from Rob_G:
I know the general consensus is that JJP flippers are weaker than Stern. All that matters is that the flippers can make the shots. My DILE flippers are ok for the most part, but what I don't like about them is that when trying to shoot the BOB targets or left orbit, the right flipper is annoyingly weak. Maybe a rebuild will help - well I hope it does. But, is this generally how the flippers are, especially the right one when trying to shoot BOB targets or lane?
Rob

You can individually control the power to each flipper in the settings. Try turning the right flipper up a few points.

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#9638 4 years ago

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I've discovered what appears to be a software bug in the code. It has happened to me twice now during play, and I just repeated it with the glass off. I am running the latest software. Here is what happens:

1. Start a mode, don't finish. Drain.
2. Start a second mode, don't finish. Drain.
3. Start a third mode. Finish. Sim card lit.
4. Send ball up side ramp into lock.
5. Now with Sim card shot lit and extra ball shot lit, put next ball into phone scoop to start multiball.

This is supposed to be a 2 ball multiball but the game kicks out all 5 balls.

As I said, I have now repeated this a few times. All other times I trigger MB, it plays as it should -- a 2 ball MB. I am not sure yet whether every step is necessary to trigger this apparent bug.

Can someone else try with the glass off and report back?

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#9642 4 years ago

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Hi guys, thanks for testing. I'm running 1.73LE. I just tried again and wasn't able to repeat the issue, though I did repeat it on ball #2. So, you may be right, and it isn't a software issue but perhaps another issue. All the optos in the ball lock tested fine. I did notice that my balls are getting magnetized again and sometimes sticking in the trough, so it may be time to change them. Perhaps that is causing part of this . . . .

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#9644 4 years ago

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Quoted from Edster:
I'm running 1.73LE on my game and when I get an extra ball, the Shoot Again does not stay on. It does add an extra ball on ball counter but at no time does it ever say Player One Shoot again or Extra Ball "You're Gonna Need it" ;-P
Is this something missing in the code that will eventually get addressed or is it just this is how it is, live with it.
E.

It’s because you’re playing balls in reserve, so extra balls are added to the screen and not awarded immediately at the end of each ball. The major difference is when you are playing multiplayer. Instead of getting your extra ball at the end of your current ball, you get it after the other players take their turns. You can toggle this feature on and off in settings.

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#9647 4 years ago

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Quoted from Edster:
Oh cool thanks. I had no idea. I will change it.
Thanks
Ed

Sure thing. But balls in reserve is a cool way to play. If friends are over, they don’t have to sit around waiting while you play each extra ball before they get their turn.

It just counts balls differently. You have X number of balls left, rather than being on ball Y out of 3.

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#9650 4 years ago

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Quoted from Edster:
Yea I get that. Also noticed that I was able to start a 2nd player on ball 2. It acted normal and the 2nd player just got another ball when I was done. Very cool.
Ed

Yeah, it’s really cool that people can just keep starting games and no one has to wait around.

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#9658 4 years ago

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Quoted from Bschafer:
Can’t find any loose wires. Have looked everywhere. The back box lights flash for a second the fan turns on and then it shuts down. That happen in less than a second. Any ideas? Anybody that will actual call me back at JJP?

Send a PM to LTG He should be able to help.

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#9688 4 years ago

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Quoted from Doctor6:
I can NOT get Dialed in to install to 1.60 (planning, of course, to update to 1.73, but you have to go to 1.6 first). I have used two different USB sticks, and follow the instructions on their website to a T. I still get the game to look like it is updating from 1.57 to 1.6.... but when it boots: 1.57 is all it does. What the HELL am I doing wrong?

How big are your usb sticks? I think it is preferred to only use 8 or 16 gb.

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#9699 4 years ago

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Quoted from edelhert:
Looks like JJP did a pretty good job with release 1.73. Complaints on this forum have dried up - wonder what they are working on right now.
What items are still on our wish list for the next release?

All I want is to be able to change the BOB target lights with the flipper buttons, but it seems that may not be in the cards.

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#9702 4 years ago

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Quoted from RipleYYY:
from Ted/Joe last talks with me, what was next was making "showdown" (beating it) more spectacular...

Well, that would be good too, but I’ll never see it. I would like to see more Bob multiballs though.

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#9743 4 years ago

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Quoted from VALIS666:
Just picked up this wonderful game yesterday. I searched for an answer to this question in this thread and didn't see one so I assume the answer is "no," but I'm going to ask anyway: Is there a way to make the drones active again if you have software 1.60 or higher? All three of mine work great in test mode, but in gameplay, well, saying they sputter would be far too generous. The active drone maybe does one propeller turn. Blink and you'd miss it. There's really almost no difference right now between having them off or on, so if I make them more active and they burn out, so be it.
Also, the previous owner (or the one before that) didn't remove the plastic from the drone and theater magnets so they're kind of fused and gnarled on there now. Any harm in trying to scrape them off with, say, a razor blade/x-acto knife and a cotton swab of rubbing alcohol, or should I just leave 'em be at this point? Thanks.

The drones are nerfed now so not that active.

Can you post a picture of the gnarled Mylar? Most of us have cut the circles off around the metal part of the magnet with an x-acto. There’s likely a key post about it in this thread.

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#9745 4 years ago

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Quoted from VALIS666:
Yep, I read about people cutting off the mylar preventatively, just not sure if there's a certain point where I wouldn't be doing any benefit by messing with it.
[quoted image]

You would be cleaning it up so it would look a lot better. I would cut the circle out.

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#9755 4 years ago

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Quoted from BC_Gambit:
Failing a software fix, why not wire two or even all three of the targets together? I know that's "lame" but it seems doable...

But then you would be lighting it too often. I really think a software solution is in order. I don't see any reason for them not to do it.

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#9799 4 years ago

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Quoted from Audioenslaved:
Should I increase the flipper strength, decrease the pitch

I would try both first and see if that helps. That shot is a tough one, and the ball can slow down a bit on the trap door. The ball, however, shouldn't come back down the loop, and you need to be able to make that shot. I believe there are other suggestions somewhere in this thread if this doesn't work.

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#9838 4 years ago

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Quoted from Mnluz:
Help needed
Ball launches when I press the right button, even when the menu is set to off.
Sometimes it launches the ball without pressing any button
Ideas on what is wrong? We have a tournament in a week and this will be an issue

Go into switch test mode and make sure all of the playfield switches are working. Any closed when they should be open? If you bang around the playfield with your fist, do any register because they are gapped too tight?

If the game thinks the ball is on the playfield because a switch is closed, it will auto launch the ball.

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#9976 4 years ago

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Quoted from KingBW:
Give it up. Someone in the beta test group asked again. JJP responded that it was brought up to the coders group and was a emphatic "No" … and would not be in the future … very strong response on that with gifs and whatnot. No budging on that I guess.

Did they give a rationale? Just curious as to why there is such a strong "no" to this.

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#9994 4 years ago

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Quoted from PanzerFreak:
I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I never knew you could delay the main multiball with the flippers and instead start a mode first. Just noticed that while watching the Buffalo Pinball stream haha. That's a great strategy option to have.

Yeah, there's a few instances where it becomes really handy to delay MB.

One is timing it with Meteor. MB makes it much quicker to finish that mode for obvious reasons.

The other less obvious is timing it with Volcano. If you start Volcano and then start MB, you can use the ball save to your advantage. Every automatic plunge counts as making the right ramp in that mode. So, you can alternate quickly between hitting the theatre (an easy shot) and draining, auto-plunging, making the right ramp (normally a more difficult shot).

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#10003 4 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
BTW, regarding Dialed In pictures... I don't know if this has been posted before, but I realized you can effectively export the pictures from your game. Just do a settings backup.
You'll end up with a *.tar.gz file. I think the name of the file has something to do with the game's serial number but I have no way to knowing that as a fact.
untar / unzip and head into
jjpe/gen1/DailedIn/vf/misc/hstd
and you'll see various *.png files.
And, BTW, I'd expect you could use the reverse process to insert your own images in place of the originals --- but haven't tried it yet. It might have a hash or something that gets in the way

I'm thinking you have way too much time on your hands.

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#10033 4 years ago

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Quoted from BENETNATH:
Question on playfield.
My DI has had playfield protector when I bought it. I'm considering to remove it as I made that move on my deadpool and the gain in precision of shots was significant.
That said, I'm planning to pu some mylar in the potential wear area.
I've cliff's installed, but were do you recommend to protect?
Exit of the phone seems to one risky area?
Or nothing to fear in a normal 5-10 games per day rhythm?

Just keep it cleaned, wax regularly, and change the balls every 3-5 months. You don’t need more Mylar except perhaps where the ball drops from the lock location. I put a little square there. Do make sure you have the cliffys on the phone and sim as TrekTobbyGermany said.

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#10037 4 years ago

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Quoted from BENETNATH:
tranquilize cut the mylar ?? taking a x-blade an removing mylar that is factory laid on the magnet ??

Just around the circular metal piece. It will get shredded over time if you don’t do it. There’s probably a key post about it in this thread.

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#10043 4 years ago

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Quoted from Green-Machine:
Maybe magnetized pinballs could cause this phenomenon

Certainly with the phone scoop, yes.

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#10046 4 years ago

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Quoted from Green-Machine:
Magnetized pinball can create some weird symptoms I found after buying my DILE
I have never seen these types of things in any other game I’ve owned. I put fresh new pinballs in and all went away.

And DI magnetized them quickly. I always get carbon steel, but I’m replacing the balls very frequently compared to other games with magnets.

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#10091 4 years ago

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Quoted from gjm7777:
Honestly the drone thing is not worth focusing on.
1. They will fail due to their inherent design in a short amount of time
2. They spin so fast you can't even tell they are doing anything while playing

Agreed. I have one that works and two that are inconsistent. I thought about replacing the two, but it really isn’t worth it, and they will fail again eventually, even if it takes longer with the new code.

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#10167 4 years ago

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Quoted from maur:
Hi guys, I need some help.
I did a little clean up on my DILE. I also changed the battery as per the instructions on the manual. When I shut the machine off and restarted it, it failed to boot up. I checked all the connections and everything seemed good.
Should I reinstall the firmware? Any help is appreciated.
Maurizio

Did you leave the machine on while changing the battery? That is necessary. If so, are you sure the battery is in there firmly, in the right direction?

It sounds like you may need to do something with the bios. Someone will have better instructions than me on how to do this. It will involve a USB connected keyboard. You will be able to fix it, so don’t worry.

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#10178 4 years ago

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Quoted from BENETNATH:
hello,
i'm the owner of a DI Std.
I am really in love with the flow, the lightshow, and the gameplay, BUT I'm considering selling it.
Why?
The flippers !
It's driving me nuts.
I can't stand the behavior of the flipper. They are properly tweaked, but i really don't like how they work.
They feel floaty, buttery and not reactive.
For comparison, I've got Stern but also a WOZ and played wonka.
I've played another DI and the buttery feeling was the same.
The strength settings does not change this feeling at all, any suggestion before I let it go (with a real deception..)

Try changing the pitch of your game perhaps. I don’t think the flippers feel buttery at all.

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#10179 4 years ago

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Quoted from Thot:
somebody can explain to me with simples words (im french lol) when and why the diverter of mecanician is active in game, because sometime is on, sometime not so i don't know rules of it thanks

It is on when lock is lit. No real reason there other than perhaps to mix things up a bit.

It is also on during acid rain mode since getting the balls into the pop bumpers is important in that mode.

And it goes up and down during monkey wrench multiball where jackpots are scored by getting the ball up the left ramp and under the diverter.

It is down the rest of the time unless I’m missing something.

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#10203 4 years ago

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Quoted from Kawydud:
I searched quick for phone led and only found people replacing the complete phone board. Has anyone replaced a single LED on the phone board? Mine is missing an LED and it wasn't inside of the cabinet or inside the phone. Seems like it would be a simple replacement if I can source the led.[quoted image]

Did you buy the game new? Has it been missing the LED from the beginning? If so, I'm sure JJP will replace it for you.

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#10216 4 years ago

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Quoted from dug:
Pretty sure the bottom pic is an early prototype

Quoted from Green-Machine:
Yes Prototype

Yes. I’ve heard stories of people chasing down the few prototypes that exist to swap the station in their games, but those are few and far in between. All LEs come with the top version in the pic.

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#10237 4 years ago

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Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:
Ok I went back and reinstalled 1.60 just to see if this issue was related to the 1.73 upgrade, and the voices are super soft on the 1.60 version as well. Anyone know of any tips or items to check?
Thanks Michael

I lost track of your original post, but I had a pinched wire on the speaker in the back box that was causing the voices to come out soft. When I readjusted the wire, it fixed the issue. Might be something to check just to rule it out.

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#10239 4 years ago

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Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:
It’s just the voices coming out of the cellphone that are faint, you can hardly hear them (hasn’t been this way for very long). It doesn’t matter if it’s version 1.60 or 1.73. I’ll take a look for any pinched wires, but to me it just doesn’t make sense that some voices in the game are normal while others now are very faint.

I know. I believe that was the same for me. Might have to do with the tone or which speaker they come through.

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#10240 4 years ago

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I believe mine was the right speaker, which kind of makes sense since the phone is on the right hand side.

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#10242 4 years ago

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Quoted from CUJO:
I too notice the cell phone talk is soft too. Only seemed to happen with the new code 1.73 for me.
I haven't opened the backbox in 5-6 months so doubt I pinched any wires.

Pinched might be the wrong word, but a wire that needed a good wiggle let’s say.

In any case, you can easily check the speakers in the menu system by sending different sounds to the left or right speakers.

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#10263 4 years ago

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Quoted from Skyemont:
I like it so that’s all that maters. I still have the original as well.

It’s a cool piece of the games history, that’s for sure. And, it makes your game unique.

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#10278 3 years ago

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Quoted from arcadem:
Hi to all. I am getting my NIB DI delivered today. I know about looking for loose connectors, bolts. screws, etc. but what problem areas, fixes or things that need particular attention should I be aware of. I have not seen any discussions about playfield chips so can I assume that hasn't been a problem for DI?Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Assuming you get the authentic cliffys installed from the factory, you don’t need to worry about chips. You will at some point soon need to cut the Mylar from around the circular magnets as it will get shredded otherwise. Some have had issues with the trap door working reliably or the right ramp rejecting fast shots, but it is not everyone. Best thing to do is read through all the key posts in this thread as most common issues are discussed there.

Most importantly, play it and have fun!

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#10292 3 years ago

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Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:
So I’ve now gone back to 1.60, the cell phone voices are still very soft, you can barely hear them. Installed a fresh copy of 1.73 and that didn’t fix the problem. I’ve checked all the wires to see if anything is pinched, etc - everything looks like it should. Does anyone have any other ideas why the cell phone voices only might be really faint?

Have you gone into test mode and tested both speakers individually with different sounds?

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#10295 3 years ago

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Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:
Thank you, that was very helpful. I’ve traced it to the right smaller speaker. It still works, just very very faint. I’m wondering if perhaps the capacitor has gone bad?

I’m pretty sure that’s the speaker where the phone voices come out of.

Before you check or replace the caps, play sounds to that speaker while wiggling the wires that go to it. See if moving the wires has any effect.

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#10418 3 years ago

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Quoted from delt31:
Can you show a pic of this?
Not sure what I’m even looking at in the first pic. That metal piece that’s twisted?

Contact JJP. They will send you one.

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#10420 3 years ago

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Quoted from delt31:
Thanks but mine doesn’t fall off. In just looking for it to be a fast return always vs occasionally bounce back then drop

Oh, weird. So, yours hits the end of the wire form, bounces back a bit, and then travels back down and falls through the hole?

Perhaps play with your pitch and lower it a bit ....

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#10424 3 years ago

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Quoted from delt31:
Yes exactly. Not all the time but occasionally
I was watched Kevin from buffalo pinball and his does it too

Mine doesn’t do that. But it must just be a ball speed thing. Too fast, and it bounces back, which is why I wondered if the pitch might have something to do with it.

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#10466 3 years ago

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It is important to have a smooth return. For instance, on Flash Fires, my method is to hit the left ramp and then hold the left flipper up on the return. The ball rolls down the wireform, down the return lane, up the left flipper, across the middle, and nicely over to the right flipper, setting up a somewhat easy shot at the BOB targets. Then, repeat.

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#10471 3 years ago

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There’s lots of physics puns in the game. The designers have good humor.

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#10475 3 years ago

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Quoted from Madmax541:
New DILE owner with couple of issues.
First JJP pin 2nd owner
Moving target doesn’t move in test mode. Screws are tight..
Voltage meter used to measure voltage at motor during test mode. No DC voltage present . According to original owner it never worked out of box.
Second thing is additional connectors not used, see pictures
Guessing blue would go to led strip for
Back glass
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance
[quoted image][quoted image]

When I got my DI NIB, the moving target didn’t work either. Turns out, one of the connectors was unplugged in the back box. Not sure how it left the factory that way, but stuff happens. So, first before anything, check your connectors both in the back box and under the playfield.

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#10477 3 years ago

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Quoted from Madmax541:
I have extra connectors not connected to anything. Shown in pics
Can you compare your connectors to mine shown in pictures?

I had a much larger connector disconnected from the pins in the back box. LTG can probably tell you better than I if those connectors in you picture are related. If he doesn’t weigh in, I’ll probably be able to take a look for you tomorrow.

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#10480 3 years ago

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Quoted from Madmax541:
Appreciate pics of connectors when you get a chance.
Don’t want to connect connectors by guessing.
Everything on moving target underneath PF is connected

I can look tomorrow, but it would be obvious. There would be a whole row of pins on the board missing a large molex connector, and a connector hanging right next to them with the exact number of wires. See anything like that?

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#10509 3 years ago

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Quoted from Madmax541:
Moving target error switch stuck closed.
Would this mean opto switch?
Target switch is open.
[quoted image]

Don’t know for sure, but my guess is that just means that your target hasn’t left that side in, well, forever, so it thinks it’s stuck closed. In switch test, when you hit the target, does it register?

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#10522 3 years ago

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Quoted from Noma2017:
Thank you both for the videos. Will watch.

The Bowen’s one was pre- Quantum Theatre MB.

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#10525 3 years ago

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Quoted from holminone:
I think I have tried to inquire before on this but no real responses.... on latest code... but are you a bit disappointed in the scoring rules of things like quantum theater multi ball? I “felt” like I shredded it- tons of jackpots, machine going nuts... but then look up and was only awarded 76000 points for the effort... I was like WTF.
Am I missing secret scoring rules in some of these multi balls? Cause I find them annoying from an award standpoint.

Your score is going to be dependent on how well you did with the qualifying modes since that determines point value of the shots in QTMB: drone captive ball, spider spinner, etc. Also, whether you were able to hold and carry over your scores for those modes via the skill shot. Finally, you need to get the super jackpots in QTMB by hitting each of the individual jackpots and then hitting the theatre.

It is not an easy mode.

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#10530 3 years ago

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Quoted from holminone:
Does anyone else experience the theater shot slowing down significantly, as though a fast moving ball slugs through a bit of mud and loses an unusual amount of velocity?
Sometimes it’s super fast, but most of the time it’s like it’s getting slugged through flypaper.
Suggestions on how to speed it up so it’s faster more consistently?

Have you removed the Mylar over the magnet core as is instructed in one of the key posts in this thread? If not, it may be bubbled or shredded, causing your ball to slow down.

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#10556 3 years ago

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Quoted from Shredso:
I think triple channel was a thing a few years back.
Before the last update people were talking about CPU and RAM upgrades. I figured if I had it sitting around, why not use it.

I believe the last update largely took care of the problem. Have you updated and are still experiencing out of synch speech and animations?

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#10590 3 years ago

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Quoted from Animal:
For example, a flip from the left flipper just barely got the ball up the left ramp and a few times it did not.

Are you trying to backhand the left ramp? I can’t do that.

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#10592 3 years ago

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Quoted from Animal:
Yes, back hand, the flipper is too weak for that?

I’ve never been able to backhand that shot. I’ve heard passing reference that others have, but I don’t think it is normal to be able to do that.

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#10595 3 years ago

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Someone needs to post a video of backhanding the left ramp because I just don’t believe it.

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#10599 3 years ago

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Hmmm. Seems doctored.

Just kidding. I have to try this some more. I’m pretty sure it’s impossible on mine.

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#10602 3 years ago

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Quoted from RJW:
What slope is your playfield at? Mine is around 6.5, and it just makes it up there if you hit the perfect. At 7 degrees it may not make it.

Yeah, I was wondering if it was a pitch thing. I just played a game and I can backhand it if the ball is rolling down the flipper from the return lane at a decent speed, but I can't do it from a cradled position. I did hit the shot cleanly; it just rolled halfway up the ramp and then back down.

I just got a new digital level -- a cheap one from Amazon, so I don't know how accurate it is -- but it says I'm at about 6.25 below the flippers, 6.5 right above the flippers, and 7.5 right before the theater (and right after the entrance to the left ramp). So, there may be a slight difference in my playfield, but it seems that the ramp is at about 7.5. My flippers are pretty strong, as I can make the right ramp shot fast and smooth. All else plays perfectly how I like. I'm not sure how important it is to backhand that shot as I agree that a post pass is very doable from the left flipper.

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#10614 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
In regards to backhanding, flipper alignment has to be inline with the inlane guides. If they're the slightest bit droopy, you won't be able to do it. I backhand the left ramp whenever I need to hit a left ramp shot (during a mode).

Would you consider my alignment to be droopy?

532C3B89-8A54-4291-98A9-086571CC8495 (resized).jpeg

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#10620 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
No, that looks pretty spot on. The only way to know 100% is to get a straight edge. Based on your post though, it seems like there might be some variance in your particular game? I don't check the pitch of my games, I just put them up at what "feels" like a good spot, then make sure it's level side to side.

It could be just the natural variance in the playfield. That said, I wonder how many people can backhand that shot vs not. Everything else plays wonderfully, so I’m not going to worry about it. As soon as I try to make that shot backhandable (is that a word?), it will be at the expense of something else.

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#10635 3 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
With 1.73?

I was going to ask the same. I have the older processor and have had no noticeable problems with the new code.

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#10645 3 years ago

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Quoted from Pinwalk:
Hi All! New owner here, just got it set up, DI LE 2 years old with 29 plays on it, I am excited!!! Love the game already, but one problem. The plunger will not get the ball up around the pf. It worked fine when I tested it out at former owners home, but now plunger is very weak. I looked in the manual but found nothing on adjustment plunger strength.....any ideas?

Try removing it and compressing the little spring on the outside of the game — the one that rests against the knob — with a pair of pliers or something. Reassemble. See if that helps.

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#10664 3 years ago

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When you decide to play one last game before bed only to get the Grand Champion score and have your picture taken with end-of-the-day, quarantine hair . . . . That’s gonna be there for a while.

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#10670 3 years ago

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Quoted from Pinwalk:
I watched the interview video with Jersey Jack, interesting. At one point, he mentioned that you can change the messages on the scrolling news feed. I think that would be fun to customize, but I searched this thread for how to do it, I found nothing, and I could not figure out how to do it within the game's menu system....any ideas?

I think it might be a CE only feature, but I could be wrong.

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#10678 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
My trap door flap just broke. I put in a ticket with JJP on their website. Does anyone know if they're still replacing these, or even if they have people on the other end working cases with COVID or the move to IL?
I've seen the fixes about adding washers to the coil to reduce the stroke. Has anyone trimmed the ramp flap to make it shorter so that it doesn't hit the wireform instead of the washers?

Somewhere in this thread, LTG posted a picture of putting a small nut in the coil to lessen the movement of the coil rod to prevent the flap from hitting.

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#10690 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
So I got a response from JJP a couple days ago asking how long I had owned the game. I responded, but no response from them yet. Any reason why the length of ownership matters? What if I had just gotten it that day? Should it matter? Just to be clear, I'm the second owner and have had it over 2 years now. I have put in service tickets for other things and they've resolved them without issue.

If it was still under warranty, they would send you a ramp flap for free. They’ve taken care of me for other things even past the written warranty. But at some point in time, it has to stop.

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#10692 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
That's true. Good point. I guess I'll just have to see what they decide to do.

They might give it to you as it is a known issue, but either way, it is probably fairly cheap in the grand scheme of things.

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#10703 3 years ago

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Well, after 2 years of ownership, I finally joined the broken trap door flap club. Game plays fine without it. Any reason to replace if there are no issues with game play?

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#10705 3 years ago

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Quoted from LTG:
Balls can trap on the trap door because it sits lower. Also prone to balls getting into the bottom of the cabinet easier.
LTG : )

Actually enough of the flap remains that it sits on the wood before the beveled opening, so I’m hoping that won’t be a problem. I took enough shots at the orbit, both slow and fast, that it seems fine. I guess I’ll see how it goes, but maybe I’ll call JJP to see about getting a replacement just in case. I don’t have a way to put rivets in and no experience doing so, so it may be getting the whole contraption.

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#10707 3 years ago

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Quoted from TOLLS:
I have been running with a broken flap for hundreds of games without issue. Go with it. Could be ok.

Thanks. Good to know.

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#10712 3 years ago

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Quoted from Pinwalk:
just replaced the CPU battery. It has only been about 2 1/2 years, but wanted to be safe. It was not as easy as they make it seem to be. Be careful not to hit the spinning cooling fan (the smaller one) on the card to the left of the battery area.

Hit the fan when I did this on my WOZ. Blood was shed.

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#10738 3 years ago

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Quoted from RonSS:
My wire management tube is huge, but nothing seems caught.
Thanks though, every idea helps me find or eliminate causes.

Check the hex (I believe) nuts inside the cabinet that hold the back box hinges in place. See if one came loose and is sticking out to far and catching on something.

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#10740 3 years ago

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Quoted from Nokoro:
Check the hex (I believe) nuts inside the cabinet that hold the back box hinges in place. See if one came loose and is sticking out to far and catching on something.

Never mind. I think I was thinking about a different pin when I had that issue. I just looked at my DI and don’t think that would cause the problem you describe.

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#10749 3 years ago

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Quoted from Doctor6:
Yeah, but the power seems consistent. Just the angle isn't. I suppose I could try different balls. Also about it hitting the wireform above it, it certainly doesn't look like that's the case at all. Hmmmm

Balls magnetize very very quickly on DI, even carbon steel ones. And when they do, that scoop becomes more inconsistent.

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#10755 3 years ago

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Quoted from Red_Devils:
Hi guys, fairly new owner of Dialed In LE here. I was wondering what your shaker motors are like. I have 3 other machines with shakers and they shake the machine normally but my Dialed in doesn't really shake it rattles if you know what I mean. When I first got it the cams were set to a maximum shake and it felt like the whole machine was rattling more than shaking, so I adjusted the cams to the minimal shake and now it does shake a little but really rattles more. I'm just wondering if this is what JJP shakers are like. I have checked and tightened all screws on the shaker in the cabinet. I don't know what else to do. Thanks guys

From my experience with other machines, figure out where the rattling is coming from. Press on the playfield glass at all the edges to see if that stops it. Same with the backglass. Also hold other mechs in the game while testing the shaker to see if one of them is the source. Once the source is located, you can properly deal with it. For example, add anti rattle tape to the edge of the glass that rattles, or just a small strip of duct tape, etc.

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#10767 3 years ago

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Quoted from Red_Devils:
It seems the rattling is coming from the shaker itself, I checked the glass and everything else. Here's a short video, it's my girlfriend playing, so please no comments of her play she tries. but she only managed to get the shaker to go off once and you can hear the rattling I'm talking about.

Thanks,

Could the motor be hitting the plastic housing? Does it make that sound with the housing off? Be very careful if you try this. Don’t get your hands or wires near it.

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#10769 3 years ago

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Quoted from Red_Devils:
Update:
I took off the plastic housing and it was still making the rattling sound. So I completely removed the shaker motor and checked all nuts and screws for tightness, when I was going to put it back in I noticed that it wasn't sitting flat on the floor of the cabinet. Great I thought either the bottom of the housing is warped or the cabinet base is. So I tried in a different place and no wobble, Looking closer I saw that the housing was sitting on a grounding braid, hmmm, I had to loosen the nuts for the sub-woofer to pull the wood up so I could pull the staple out that was underneath the wood, pulled another staple out so I could move the grounding strap away from the blot pattern for the shaker motor. Re-installed the shaker motor and kept the grounding strap away from the base of it. Turned machine back on and went in to test mode and tried to test the shaker and nothing wtf! Checked the manual and saw that I'd blown a fuse while trying to tighten the nuts prior to removing it. Dang, changed the fuse (while machine was off) Started machine went back in to test mode and tested shaker, eureka! Now the shaker shakes and no more rattle! Just thought I'd post my fix here for anyone else that may have this issue. I can only assume that it came from the factory like this because it's an LE and already had the shaker installed and the previous 2 owners didn't notice it or didn't know how it was supposed to be. Anyway all fixed now and back to playing. Thanks to you guys who offered help.

Well, I’m glad I contributed in my small way.

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#10775 3 years ago

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I believe the SIM card hole has been known to chip unless you have a cliffy protector on it. They started putting them on from the factory in later production runs.

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#10780 3 years ago

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Quoted from FatPanda:
I haven't gotten a response from JJP support about my door flap in just over 2 weeks now, after I responded to the question about length of ownership. Still playing the game obviously...but the lack of response is underwhelming.

Call them. That often works best.

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#10799 3 years ago

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Quoted from Doctor6:
Wait... its 7 sim cards?! I thought it was all of them to spell dialed in!

Armageddon is reached after starting all disaster modes and doesn’t have anything to do with the SIM cards.

Showdown is reached when you have collected all eight SIM cards.

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#10813 3 years ago

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Quoted from Oneangrymo:
I got the one off the drones, that theater is hardy to get to!

Get it from underneath the playfield. Remove the magnet then cut out the circular bit of mylar with a sharp exacto knife.

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#10875 3 years ago

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Quoted from Oneangrymo:
can someone please post a photo of what that plastic piece is supposed to look like behind the phone? The fly ball protector? I took it off and can't seem to remember how it looked when it was originally on
Thanks

I did that once. Hope these help.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Post last edited 3 years ago: “Rotated images ”

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#10878 3 years ago

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Quoted from Oneangrymo:
So if u complete one mode lit sim chip but don’t get it while ur trying complete another mode u still only get one sim ?

SIMs don’t carry over from ball to ball if you fail to collect (though you can change that in settings). And you can only collect one at a time. So, if you’ve completed three modes but haven’t collected any SIM cards yet, you will need to hit that scoop three separate times to collect all three.

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#10889 3 years ago

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Quoted from demaximis:
Having a problem with video on the main monitor. I get horizontal static in the video - tough to capture in a picture, but you can see the lines at the top. I checked the connection from the pc to the monitor, and both seem tight. Any thoughts on what might cause this? Bad cable? If so, is there a replacement? Thanks in advance!
[quoted image]

Try reseating the cable first. Make sure it isn’t bent or pinched at a connector.

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#10908 3 years ago

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Quoted from ViperJelly:
Just joined the club a couple days ago. Anyone think the machine plays slow? I have the back legs all the way up.

Have you upped the power to the flippers?

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#10911 3 years ago

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Quoted from ViperJelly:
Mine is set with the bubble touching the second line from the top. I will adjust the flippers, thanks all!

That sounds pretty steep. I’m also at second line from bottom. It could be that you went too far and have slowed it down by making it too steep. Have you checked the pitch with a digital level?

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#10930 3 years ago

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Quoted from Red_Devils:
Ok got a strange one here. I have read through all the posts about the trap door issues and found none mentioning what is happening with mine. When I start a game the trap door works great, opens/closes when it should, but after a few minutes of play if I get "lock is lit" the trap door doesn't open for me to lock a ball and I'm forced to make the real hard side ramp shot to physically lock the ball in the station then Betty's arm comes up so you can make the ramp shot. But here's the kicker if I get a BOB mode ready the trap door opens and if I make the shot I get the BOB mode but it doesn't register the Ball 1 locked and Betty's arm stays down. Like I said at the beginning of the game this works normally, like when "lock is lit" and the trapdoor is open for me to lock the ball and it registers, but later on in the game it doesn't open. If you start a new game the same thing happens works as normal at first then does the same thing later in the game. I've noticed this recently and am really perplexed over what is happening. Does anyone has any ideas what this could be?
Thanks for listening to me

That’s normal you can only lock a ball in the trap door for the first multiball, not other ones after that. For other ones, you have to make the side ramp shot.

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#10994 3 years ago

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Quoted from daveddd14:
1st real game of pinball in like 3 weeks (hand surgery) and almost beat dialed in. 7 of 8 letters and only needed one more with 3 balls left. GC was $3 bil, I put up $5.4 bil. Can't believe I choked it away.

Hmmm. Perhaps I should look into hand surgery.

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#11004 3 years ago

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Quoted from Navystan:
Just got back my DILE. Friend had it a few months and I bought it back...hard to not have one the best pins.
So, I started up the game and noticed weird things happening with the train station multi ball. First, it seems on every 2nd ball of 3 ball game, it says lock is lit without me doing anything. Then, if I get a ball locked under bob trap door or via train ramp lock, I immediately get phone scoop saying mulitball is ready. I checked switch matrix and all looks OK. I also forced the game to lock 2 or 3 balls in the station and then start multi ball, so that seems to indicate the optos are working, right? Any help appreciated.

This sounds normal. Once you finish your first mode, lock is lit. So, if you started a mode and drain, lock will be lit on ball 2. If you then get the trap door, you lock the ball and MB is ready since the first one is only a two ball MB. (You can bypass MB being ready by tapping both flippers when the first ball is locked.). Subsequent MBs require you to lock more balls, and you can’t use the trap door then. You have to use the side ramp.

Post last edited 3 years ago: “Typo”

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#11006 3 years ago

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Quoted from Navystan:
Thank you! I noticed there's an option to turn off trap door virtual lock. Maybe my game was set up that way, when I first had it and now it's set to permit one ball lock for multi ball.

Maybe. The default is how you have it set now.

Always nice to find out that a perceived problem is actually how the game works.

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#11035 3 years ago

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I lost my trap door flap, and my orbit shot seems the same with or without it. I did get a replacement just in case it worsens.

However, I don’t think the flap prevents clunky orbit shots. (Though I can certainly see The lack of it hurting if not there depending upon where it broke off.) Rather, I think it is the hinge on the other end of the door that causes a bit of a bump that slows down the shot some.

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#11053 3 years ago

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Quoted from Kenswift:
Dialed In now showing OOS at all levels through JJP.

Distributors seem to still have them. JJP probably just got rid of their factory inventory.

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#11063 3 years ago

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Quoted from Kenswift:
Ok!! I officially paid for my new DILE today and super pumped as it’s my first pin. Some temptation to do a GNR but I’ve played DI and know how good it plays which was important to me. Does anyone know if it’s code complete? I know it’s 3 years old now, but are they still improving the code. (I know the code is pretty awesome already!)

It is complete. There’s always the chance of a little more with JJP but everything major is in it and no killer bugs.

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#11154 3 years ago

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Quoted from nicoy3k:
Is my crazy bob sign in the stock position? And is the small sign to the left a mod or a stock plastic? Thanks!
[quoted image]

No. Someone split up the sign and moved both sections to face the player. Some people do this to better see the sign.

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#11163 3 years ago

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Quoted from the_zap:
But I don't wanna sound too pessimistic here. Embrace SMD technology, get yourself a good soldering iron for cheap (For example the great TS-80), some thin solder, some flux, go practice on some trash boards and you will see that in SMD, two pin components like resistors, capacitors, diodes or fuses are actually easier to replace than THT, with less stress for the board itself.
Have a good weekend y'all!

I’ve just finally gotten ok at through hole soldering, but I can’t seem to desolder to save my life. I’ve been watching videos on SMD soldering, and it looks doable if you have the right equipment. One of these days I’m going to get myself a microscope for it. I’m worried that my hands aren’t steady enough, but I guess we’ll see. From the videos, it doesn’t seem as bad as everyone said. Reading pinside, you would think only a handful of people in the world have the capability to do it, but I don’t think that’s true in reality.

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#11180 3 years ago

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Quoted from yaksplat:
Anyone else grab a spare set of plastics for $50 off the JJP website?

Yes, I did. Very good price and nice to have a back up.

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#11189 3 years ago

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Quoted from the_zap:
I think it's down on every second mode? At least it's always down on the second mode as far as I remember. And then there's also the Monkey Wrench Multiball (one of the three BOB multiballs) where the diverter goes up and down all the time and you have to time your shot to get past it.

It doesn’t have to do with the second mode. It is down when lock is lit. Lock is first lit after you complete the first mode. However, if you lock the ball, the diverter will go back up.

It is also down on certain modes like acid rain and as stated MW MB when it goes up and down.

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#11191 3 years ago

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Quoted from the_zap:
Aah, that makes much more sense! Looks like I never payed full attention there!

Yeah, it’s a bit confusing because you just have to know. There’s nothing in the game that specifically tells you that.

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#11194 3 years ago

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Quoted from mikepmcs:
If you do want to go that route and don't feel like making(youtube) or buying a degaussing tool https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/magnetized-balls-problem-solved-cheaply or don't have a soldering iron to try. put this in the search in that one massive market place that you bid on or sell stuff. 25 1-1/16" Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs.
Don't overthink this too much. I've never had a pinball magnetization problem, ever. I replace or polish pinballs to get the nicks out but i've never replaced one because of a magnetizing situation causing issues. Maybe i'm too dumb to know what the issues are. This is a possibility and not ruling it out.
r/
Mike

DI has a ton of magnet play and magnetizes balls very quickly, even carbon steel ones.

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#11198 3 years ago

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Quoted from yaksplat:
Has anyone tried heating the balls in an oven to demagnetize them?
I had a recollection that heating would eliminate magnetism from engineering school 20 years ago...

Yes. I read a post in one of these threads, perhaps the “Where are you buying balls from?” thread where someone tried that and I think got decent results. I might try it one of these days, but balls are pretty cheap and I swap them out regularly anyway.

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#11199 3 years ago

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I should say that the first sign mine are getting magnetized tends to be irregular returns from the phone scoop. This is followed by the ball sometimes (though rarely) sticking to the trough when it drops in and not rolling down to trigger the opto.

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#11207 3 years ago

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Quoted from nicoy3k:
The ball dropping from the station lock, about a 1.5 inch drop every time you hit the side ramp. Then off the front of the upper playfield it’s like a 2.5 inch drop

I put a one inch square piece of mylar under the station lock. Not sure it was necessary, but you can’t see it and it can’t hurt.

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#11237 3 years ago

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Quoted from nicoy3k:
Hmmm doesn’t seem to be working? To confirm, when the phone is ringing for multiball if I press both flipper buttons it will be cancelled? Nothing seems to happen

You have to do it as soon as you lock the ball and the phone shows that it is ready. Tap both flippers multiple times to make sure you get it. Wait too long and you’ll miss it.

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#11264 3 years ago

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Quoted from woodmedic:
I have had mine for about a week now and have been really enjoying it. One small issue is that the ball frequently gets stuck on the robot diverter if the shot up that ramp isn’t solid. Is that pretty common or do I need to adjust my diverter down more?

That’s not common. It could be the arm needs adjusting. You could also try upping the pitch of your game a bit, especially if it seems slow in other ways.

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#11308 3 years ago

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Quoted from BigT:
My daughter is home from college for a few days and we were playing pinball and ended up playing DI. She isn’t very good and I decided to use the app and she managed the flipper buttons. It was a blast!! We were both flipping the same game. I was trying to show her where to flip and make shots, it quickly devolved into us blaming each other for drains. We played this way for almost an hour. We would fight over the flips and who should make the shots. As an FYI, if you hold the flipper with the app the buttons on the cab don’t override the app. When you do that and call the shot, you better make it or there is hell to pay.
For the new owners, if you can download the app do it. It can act as a center button, or you can find other uses for the app. I really dislike that this feature had so much hate. One of the ideas for that app is that it would remember your scores and if you beat your high score it would capture it on the app, no matter which DI you played.

What a great story and fun way to play with the app. I always thought the app got a bad rep. It doesn’t seem to work well with some machines, but it works flawlessly on mine. And I’ve had cases where kids, new to pinball, aren’t really interested in the game until I show them how they can play with the app.

Thanks for sharing.

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#11351 3 years ago

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Quoted from adol75:
I have a simple rule question but I can't figure it.
I don't get how to light the lock, I read you have to shoot both ramps which I keep doing but it doesn't light the lock.
Am I missing something ?

First time, you just have to complete the first mode. After the first MB, you light the lock by hitting both ramps. After the second MB, you have to hit both ramps one after the other (a combo). I’m not sure after that. I’ve never had more than three of the regular MBs. I’m assuming it is the same from there on in.

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#11356 3 years ago

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Quoted from TOLLS:
Pretty sure the the ball number increase with each multi ball.

Correct.

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#11388 3 years ago

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Quoted from Kwoody51:
I changed my battery last night as I had to get into my backbox to install trans light LED. WOW - what a PITA to change the battery! Spinning fan less than 1/2" from the battery. Felt like a game of operation... not a good design!

When I changed the battery on my WOZ, my finger had an unfortunate encounter with the spinning fan. Needless to say, my blood (literally), sweat and tears have gone into maintaining that game.

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#11394 3 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Sounds like there's a market for JJP Battery Changing Cut Resistent Gloves! Maybe the mods guys will get on it.
Maybe repackage this:
amazon.com link »

Good idea. I actually bought a few pairs of these the other day. I’ve had a few unfortunate incidents with knives and other sharp objects this past year.

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#11408 3 years ago

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Quoted from adol75:
My phone scoop sends the ball SDTM, 1 out of 10 times which is starting to be frustrating. I tried setting it up higher but the ball hits the rails, and lower the ball barely comes out
Is there a secret trick to avoid that ? My game looks decently levelled so I don't know what else to try.

Check to see if your balls are magnetized. Can you pick up a paper clip with one?

When mine start to get magnetized, returns from the phone scoop become inconsistent.

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#11457 3 years ago

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Quoted from Green-Machine:
Can you half press the flipper button so only the lower flipper extends to backhand to the Phone?

That takes a lot of coordination. Better just to train yourself to release the button after backhanding. I haven’t had a problem with this on DI, but I do sometimes run into issues on my Flash Gordon with the same thing, so I know the feeling.

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#11462 3 years ago

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Quoted from adol75:
I've never managed to hit that hole directly from the upper right flipper. My best success rate is by bouncing against the big bang target

I especially enjoy hitting the Big Bang target straight on and having the ball shoot right into the outhole before you can even blink.

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#11484 3 years ago

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Quoted from Viperbsd:
Good to know. Wonder if I should go ahead and put a spacer on the other spot. I don’t appear to have any issues with my trap door, but I plan to shop out that area anyway and could add the spacer while I have it apart.

Quoted from fiberdude120:
If its not broken don't fix it.

Yes, except mine was fine for over two years before it finally broke. Sometimes preventative maintenance can be a good thing.

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#11550 3 years ago

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Quoted from adol75:
So basically, everytime you start a mode you can just hit the big bang targets repeatedly and complete all the modes ?
Wow that is quite a change in strategy

Yes, but good luck. Easier said than done. Each time, it takes more shots to qualify BB. And, keep in mind that finishing the mode that way won’t award you any bonus points from the SIM multipliers. It is definitely useful to have for the harder modes, but something to use sparingly.

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#11559 3 years ago

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Quoted from holminone:
Total choke. Qualified Armageddon for the first time ever then left drained...
[quoted image]

Next time don’t play while trying to take a picture.

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#11642 3 years ago

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Quoted from BriFi:
I've noticed sometimes when I hit the SIM Card scoop, it registers a BOB trap door hit instead and therefore not counting the SIM card shot. This is frustrating when I have SIM Card lit. I guess sometimes I hit that scoop just right that the ball travels slightly up the subway path and trips the BOB trap door opto first before traveling back down to the phone scoop VUK. My NIB DILE was purchased seven months ago and came with Cliffy's installed at both the Phone and SIM Card scoops. Is there anything I can do to prevent the ball from accidentally tripping the BOB trap door opto first? Is there a simple way to relocate the BOB trap door optos further up the subway path without messing things up?

I find it hard to believe the ball is traveling the wrong way in the subway. Have you checked the BOB opto? Maybe it is loose or a little misaligned? Also try reseating the connectors.

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#11645 3 years ago

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Quoted from fnosm:
This happened to me too. The BOB opto is very close to the sim hole (they share the same subway) and the sim hole shot will roll the ball back up the subway and activate the BoB opto before the SIM hole opto. I followed the suggestion from another pinsider and moved the BoB opto further up the subway. I did have to drill two teeny pilot holes for the screws but it was a simple fix that has solved this issue completely.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dailed-in-by-jjp/page/31#post-4167664

This is a real thing. The SIM scoop is hard enough to hit in the first place. Losing your sim card to the BOB opto is infuriating.

Interesting. Maybe it depends upon your set up. I don’t think that’s ever happened to me. I suppose if the ball rolls in just right without hitting the back of the hole, it would have enough momentum to keep going to the BOB opto. But it just seems strange to me that it wouldn’t hit the back edge of the hole and just drop straight down.

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#11646 3 years ago

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Quoted from Nokoro:
Interesting. Maybe it depends upon your set up. I don’t think that’s ever happened to me. I suppose if the ball rolls in just right without hitting the back of the hole, it would have enough momentum to keep going to the BOB opto. But it just seems strange to me that it wouldn’t hit the back edge of the hole and just drop straight down.

I wonder if another potential solution is to add a piece of that drop dead foam they use on targets to the back edge of the hole. Perhaps that would make an already difficult shot all the more difficult, but it might also help. Hard to tell. I just wonder if the ball is nicking the bottom edge of the hole as it goes in and then travels upward to the BOB opto, maybe that foam will slow it down enough so it doesn’t happen.

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#11665 3 years ago

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Quoted from JoeJet:
Hello all. Been a while but about a year or so ago there was an update that was making the cell phone video glitch and people with older CPUs were updating them to get back to smooth video.
I simply didn't update software thinking a fix would come out. Did one?
So question is, is it safe to update to latest software for older games? If not, how do I figure out if I have an old or newer cpu (what version is safe?) Thanks.

I believe I have the older CPU and no problem with the latest code.

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#11676 3 years ago

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Quoted from Deez:
Ball keeps getting stuck in this spot. anyone solve this issue?
[quoted image]

That’s weird. Can you tell what it is catching on?

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#11677 3 years ago

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Wait, is that elevated? How does that happen? And when?

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#11714 3 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
I'm looking for a pic of the Smartphone Assembly from the side.
In my setup, it is mounted on the front most 2 screws. I'm wondering if that's typical. I was only able to find 1 pictures showing this and, in that picture, the mounting used the back 2 screws. Here's a pic. Sorry for the over exposure.
[quoted image]

Back 2 on mine. My front screw has a flat top and you wouldn’t be able to attach a nut to it. I haven’t touched mine since it came from the factory.

9EA2D5CE-6AAD-496F-96D2-E074BEEE431D (resized).jpeg

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#11719 3 years ago

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Quoted from altan:
Thank you both for the pics.
I'm wondering... when you shoot the Smartphone hole, does your phone always shake a lot? Trying to determine if the position both of you show causes more or less shaking of the phone.

I don't think so. At least, I’ve never noticed a lot of shake.

My guess is that someone removed your phone once and forgot to take pictures of how it was set up so accidentally reattached it on the first two screws.

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#11758 3 years ago

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Quoted from dos_reboot:
Can't plunge the right ramp. Slope is at 2nd bubble line as JJP recommended.
Any suggestions?

Quoted from fnosm:
Here are a couple of ideas:
Make sure that the plunger isn't being blocked the auto plunger. The easiest solution for me when this happens is to rotate my plunger a bit and try again.
Right after DI came out there were 'sagging' issues reported and discussed here on Pinside. This may be part of your problem. If you track down those posts you can see how people attempted to resolve it.
One last thing is to see if you have a long or short barrel spring outside of the cabinet on your plunger. If you have a long one you can replace it with a short one(3/4") and that might get you over the hump.
Please let us know what you figure out.

Also try compressing the outside spring in some vise grips a bit. That did the trick for me.

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#11764 3 years ago

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Quoted from NC_Pin:
are your playfield hooks bent? Mine were bent and it caused the plunger to hit the top of the ball.

Quoted from fnosm:
I will check that out thanks!

Or the bracket that holds the hooks and lockdown bar may be loose and not flush with the front of the cabinet. That happened to mine.

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#11803 3 years ago

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Quoted from smokinhos:
Thanks guys.. im 2 hrs into this and followed the instructions. Insert the USB, fire the game, nothing happens. Just boots up to 1.50. And I can't get the backbox open. Read about that in another post. So far not real impressed with owning this. Game is cool, just haven't had update issues on my Sterns or American like this. I've gone thru the process twice. 1.5 it is..

Try a different USB stick. Make sure it has nothing else on it. I think you want to use an 8gb one, but LTG can weigh in for sure.

Also make sure the USB cable is connected at the other end.

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#11808 3 years ago

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Nokoro

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Just replaced my battery for one of the more stressful pieces of routine maintenance I've done to date. That area on DI is tight!

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#11836 3 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from finnflash:
Picking up a DILE tomorrow! Now someone tell me everything I need to know, so I dont have to read this whole thread. Ready.........GO

Congrats!

Just look at the key posts for now. They cover a lot of the major stuff.

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#11844 3 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from finnflash:
I got into the computer in back and found the video card was not plugged in all the way. Phone is back up and running.
My next question is when I played this on location, I would start multiball with 3 balls. I have only had 2 ball multiball. Even the animation shows 2 balls going through the station. I'm assuming this is a setting, but cant find it anywhere.
And how do you get access to the small speakers? I had to unhook the right side because certain tones would distort.

First MB is a two ball MB. The next one is three ball and so on.

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#11976 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from daveddd14:
So I just got my alert that my HUO is now 3 years old and it is time to change the battery.
1. Should I actually change it after 3 years since it was only in a home?
2. I don't want to go through the back up process as it seems like a PAIN.

Yes. Change it. The battery is constantly draining to preserve your settings when the pin is not on. Home or out of the home makes no difference.

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#11989 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from maur:
I experienced the nightmare of changing the battery. I just cannot believe they could not make it easier. Resetting the multimonitor setting in the BIOS is not that difficult but no where in the manual does it tell you that's what you have to do. Furthermore, you need a keyboard attachment in order to change that setting. It took me days, with the help of a few pinsiders, to figure it out. Again, it should not be this difficult!!
Maurizio

Honestly, that’s what scares me about changing the battery with the power off. It would be nice if someone could put together some step by step instructions. I would definitely do it to avoid the risk if I knew better how to deal with BIOS settings.

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#11994 2 years ago

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Quoted from Tranquilize:
It's a PC motherboard battery swap, not brain surgery. C'mon guys....

I’m sure it’s very simple for those who have done it. For those that haven’t, step by step instructions would be helpful. It’s not like you want to guess if you don’t know what you’re doing.

I just replaced a battery on my home PC, and it took me a while to figure out what to do, and there I just had to reset the date. Online instructions that I could find were not that intuitive.

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#12003 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from woodmedic:
This one is pretty good.

If I remember correctly, that one is before they added Quantum Theatre multiball, but has all of the other rules. I believe JJP made a video explaining the new QT modes and MB.

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#12078 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Yep. There’s no rhyme or reason for why it drops for the ball lock other than it’s something you have to deal with until you get the ball locked.

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#12080 2 years ago

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Quoted from Pinballomatic:
I believe the idea is that it gets the ball somewhat down toward the upper right flipper.

You would obviously know best. I just don’t think I’ve ever locked a ball that was diverted off of the plexiglass playfield. The geometry doesn’t seem to line up for me. I always assumed it just was to add variety and make you do something to open up the full left ramp shot again.

All this reminds me that’s it’s been a while since I played DI. Overdue for a game or two.

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#12093 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from delt31:
Would someone mind posting a picture of how their bob lights are plugged in? For some reason I’m not getting an extra ball to get awarded going from crazy move (blue) then bonus (yellow) then red for mb but no color for extra ball and I don’t think it’s being collected
Here is mine
[quoted image]

You can test the lights in the game menu to make sure they’re all working. While you’re there, check your extra ball settings. Maybe extra ball is turned off or reduced for some reason.

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#12098 2 years ago

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Quoted from delt31:
hmmm - looks like yours has the blue wires as #3. I think mine has those currently in #2. I can try that to see.
EDIT - so I tried flipping them and now its wrong as extra ball lights but it’s mb so I don’t think that is right. How I had it originally matches the game just no extra ball is given. I will check settings

If it’s wired correctly and the lights are working, it must be a settings thing. Extra ball should be lit after starting 3 modes, right after the third mode ends. Other things can light it as well. Mystery award, for example.

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#12101 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from delt31:
3 disaster modes or Bob modes? Thinking the latter….

Disaster modes. EB is set that way by default. Maybe your settings were changed? I can go in later today and see if I can find a setting for that. I’m guessing there is one, but I’m not sure if I ever looked. (There’s a setting for everything.)

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#12103 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from delt31:
oh if it's 3 disasters that's def the issue. I didn't try that! I knew it was wired right haha. Thanks!

Ah, glad nothing is wrong then! Yeah, three disasters is way easier than getting three Bob modes. You can’t really aim for the lowest Bob target, so activating those modes is always a bit random for me.

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#12226 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from dluth:
Not sure it’s worth the update to lose the phone app. It’s always cool to show that feature to folks who haven’t seen it.

I agree. I’m not sure I care about Scorbit. I am curious about the tweak to the ball save which may help my scores. But, occasionally, I find the app cool. Kids tend to like it and can relate to it. It’s a real shame that it was a hyped feature that they dropped. That said, I do prefer traditional methods of flipping myself. For now, I’ll probably hold off on updating.

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#12230 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from altan:
So IMHO, as long as you don't mind losing the already questionable bluetooth app feature (which JJP removed from the App stores a while ago), it seems like a winner

So I’ll probably lose it whenever I get a new phone anyway, is that right?

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#12306 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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And while we’re talking about code wish lists, making the BOB targets cycle with the flipper switches . . .

I know, I know. This was talked about before and rejected. But, I still have hope.

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#12363 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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It is a shame because the Bob modes are really really cool. I love Monkey Wrench MB, for instance. The idea that you should time your shots to get past the wrench is such a great one. Unfortunately, I’m luck if I see that mode once every few months.

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#12378 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from prentice:
Seems better on shots, but still testing. I haven't played enough games to be good enough to reliably hit it yet.

Best way to hit the phone scoop is a backhand from the right flipper when cradling the ball.

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#12416 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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I don’t think the SE has the acrylic panel on back, but I could be wrong.

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#12433 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from bossk4hire:
Are there modes that effect the flippers?

Just when you are attacked in MB, the attacks cause your flippers to lightly machine gun for a second or two.

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#12440 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from prentice:
I don’t have any trapdoor problems while playing but I just noticed that I can’t activate the trapdoor in the device tests.

Did you take care of the coin door interlock switch before trying? It cuts the high power when the coin door opens. You have to re-engage it before doing tests that require coils.

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#12495 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from prentice:
What are the implications for not replacing? My game seems to work fine, but just recently noticed this was snapped off and in the coin box. Extra wear on the balls? Damage to trapdoor area?

I don’t think you have to repair the flap for the trap door. Some people have issues like LTG said. Others don’t. My flap broke off months ago, and the shot seems smoother without it.

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#12497 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from mbrave77:
plastic flap for the ramp? Or for the ball return to the inlane? Thats where the issue is for me.

He meant the ball return at the end of the wireform. JJP added a piece of plastic to prevent fast balls from falling off.

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#12503 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from smokinhos:
No.. i just took a hobby exacto knife and carefully followed the circle of the magnet. Came off super clean. Take your time.

Agreed. For the theatre magnet, I got it from the underside, removing the magnet first and then using the same method to cut out the circle of mylar.

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#12530 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from mrossman5:
Just got DI LE #99 and am absolutely loving it. Sorry if this has been answered before, but I am having an issue where the ball is whipping around the right ramp too fast and actually missing the switch that registers the shot. I've tried adjusting it and the flipper strength but it still happens every so often. Are there any fixes to this?

A small piece of felt tape on the back wall of the metal ball guide should slow down the ball just enough to make that shot smoother.

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#12555 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Vyzer2:
Has anyone changed their battery with the game on? I gave up after an hour even with help. I searched for any news, it’s been a while that anyone has posted and DI owners wound up doing with the game off. What a terrible place that battery was put.

I did. Very tight but doable. How specifically did you get hung up?

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#12557 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Vyzer2:
The battery is in so tight. I’ve tried various makeshift “tools” out of wood and plastic to just get a bit on the side or underneath. Can’t budge it. The board that sticks out really prevents you for any wiggle room.
How did you do it?
It would have been smart for JJP to put a “string” under the battery so you could pull it out. I will do that if I ever get it out. Frustrated.

Did you use the masking tape method described in the manual? If not, you really need to. There’s a tab at the bottom of the battery holder. Once you depress it enough, the battery pops right out and will stay on the masking tape. No prying required. It is VERY tight, but if you do it that way, you can get it.

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#12559 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Vyzer2:
Thks for this Nokoro however I do not have a tab at the bottom of the battery but a tab on top. That tab has to be pulled out so the battery could move out. But, that tab has very little flex and no way to pick that out a bit and push/pick/pull the battery out. Yes I did put masking tape per the manual. You would need to get tape that could pull up 250lbs per sq in. The tape is obviously good so that battery doesn’t fall and cause a short.

Sorry. Forgot whether the tab was at the top or bottom. The tab doesn’t get pulled. It gets pushed to be flush with the side of the plastic holder. So, I guess up if it’s on that side. It takes a bit of work, but if you push it up enough, the battery does pop out.

If it becomes too difficult, someone somewhere in this thread posted how to do it with the game off. You have to save your settings and be prepared to reset bios and stuff.

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#12561 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from mbrave77:
Shit i didnt even know these newer games had batteries to change. When do you change the battery and where is it on dialed in/jjp games?

Check the manual. There’ll be instructions and location info. They recommend every 3 years.

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#12566 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from mbrave77:
Ok thanks guess ill do that. New sterns too?

I’m not sure. Been a while since I had a Stern.

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#12616 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from TwilightZone:
Just joined the club and got a DI SE from a friend. Absolutely love the game. Fantastic flow and rules.
Quick question.
When I set it up at my place, the ball jumps off the left habit trail most of the time. Ball hits the end of the habit trail and launches off. My buddy didn't have the issue at his place, until he moved it just before I bought it. He mentioned there was a fix from JJP. Can someone take a pic of the fix?
I'm going to try and adjust front legs and raise them a bit to see if that helps, but wanted to see the JJP fix.
Thanks!

There’s a piece of plastic that goes on the end of the ball return to prevent this. If you contact JJP, they should be able to send you one.

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#12619 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Here you go. Kind of hard to see. A 3D printed piece won’t be truly translucent even with clear filament.

C7BFEDAD-5317-42A4-A1BC-0B01C3EB9694 (resized).jpeg

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#12632 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from TOLLS:
You won’t get better value for money. Bless the ignorant and followers of popular opinion.

Absolutely. DropGems mines for sale in the marketplace for a decent price. Just a small 6 hour drive away.

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#12709 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from maur:
But isn't it the point, why did they make it so difficult. Pinballs have needed batteries for decades, surely they could have designed an easier simple way that anyone can do with little or no effort. After all, this isn't a particularly "new and innovative" feature. To think that you need to follow instructions to change a damn battery and still, for most of us, have complications, is ridiculous. I had to get a wired keyboard to go into the bios? Really? I don't know, maybe I'm too old and expect too much. I mean, car companies have made changing the oil and filter on a car impractical for someone to do it on their own.....
Sorry for the rant, I'm feeling grumpy today for some reason
Maurizio

It’s a bios battery for a computer. They’re needed. Even your desktop PC will need its battery changed after a while. I just had to do mine recently. It’s just that most people get a new PC before the battery becomes an issue.

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#12713 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Ashram56:
Except that on a PC, unless you physically cut power directly at the outlet, your pc always have 5v stdby on, which is used to power the CMOS. So the battery very rarely drains. Whereas in a pinball, you actually shut it off completely.

True. Except my mistake was always turning off the surge protector for my desktop since other things were hooked up to it. I’ve fixed that practice now.

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#12777 2 years ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from finnflash:
I got the app to connect to my pin, but then the buttons dont do anything. Is there something I need to turn on in settings?

I think you need to hold both left flipper buttons at the same time until it is connected or something like that if memory serves.

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#12832 1 year ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from mbrave77:
Where is the battery anyways and how often need to replace? Any signs you can tell its time to replace?

Check the manual. There are instructions. JJP recommends once every three years.

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#12850 1 year ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from DropGems:
My left flipper has starting becoming erratic like firing rapidly real quick and feeling off. It’s subtle but screwing up my game. Any idea what’s going on? I’ve never dealt with pinball flipper issues before. Thx

Sorry for the obvious question, but just to check, is this only happening during multiball?

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#12854 1 year ago

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Quoted from DropGems:
No I don’t believe so but I think I first noticed it during multiple ball.

I asked because when you get attacked during MB, if you don’t stop the attack, the machine makes your flipper machine gun. This is normal. You can tell an attack is coming from the lights on the two criss crossed straight lines down the middle of the playfield. The lights will slowly get closer to the flipper that is being attacked.

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#12914 1 year ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Jamwin:
Gameplay question, I’m going through disasters with multiballs sprinkled in then get to chaos on quantum city. Is this the general flow or is there something I am missing? How are y’all attacking gameplay? This is a fairly new addition to my lineup so still figuring out how to navigate. Unlike, Wonka for example, where you can stack mini modes(super spinner, etc..) I’m failing to see what to stack and best way to play. Thanks in advance.

Nothing much to stack in DI compared to other pins, except some modes work well with MB. So, waiting on starting meteor and then MB is useful, for instance.

Otherwise, it is making your way through modes one at a time and trying to collect the SIM cards. Lots of other stuff to do along the way. Just not many stacking opportunities.

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#13018 1 year ago

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Nokoro

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Quoted from Tranquilize:
Dialed in's default rules remove much of the game. Set Bob rules to easy and lower requirements for theatre modes and the game opens up. I now focus on stacking theatre MBs and modes and other MBs. It's no longer just modes and feels like a 90s machine.

Interesting. I always thought Bob multiballs were way too hard to obtain. I wish I still had my game to try.