(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

6 years ago


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  • 13,517 posts
  • 730 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by TheLaw
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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,517 posts in this topic. You are on page 267 of 271.
#13301 7 months ago
Quoted from dos_reboot:

How many of you have taken off the SIM card cliffy?

Mine didn't come with any protection except mylar. I added the JJP factory ones later and also the Cliffy's. I tried them each for about e a week and the rejection rate was terrible and I haven't used them since. Hardly any wear on both holes with just mylar.

I think raw dogging is the only the way to go for DI.

#13302 7 months ago

I finally upgraded the software to the Beta 4(12/23/22), now my Pin Stadiums don’t work and their SSID doesn’t even show up. A couple of times in the past they’ve reset to default, but still showed in my list of networks. When I bought the machine the Pin Stadiums came installed on it, so I have idea how or where they hook up. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

#13303 7 months ago

I thought Pinstadiums have their own network and don't interact with game software except for light triggers. Given that, I did note that Beta code release D for Dialed In has serious audio bugs. I installed this on my game, and the headphone jack stopped working. I had to revert to the release code (1.75) via the full install method to get things working again. I opened a ticket with JJP to inform this of this issue.

#13304 7 months ago

Like I said, they came with the machine and I no know nothing about them, except their network was always listed until now. Never having seen the game without the Pin Stadiums, I thought some of the other game lighting must also be out, because it’s so dark now. I’d never be able to play without the room lighting being turned up.

#13305 7 months ago
Quoted from dos_reboot:

How many of you have taken off the SIM card cliffy?

I took off both Cliffy's and put down mylar. The phone has far less rejects, and I can actually hit the SIM card shot from the upper flipper (still tough though). Made the game even more enjoyable for me. I will risk some playfield wear for a game that plays properly.

#13306 7 months ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

Like I said, they came with the machine and I no know nothing about them, except their network was always listed until now. Never having seen the game without the Pin Stadiums, I thought some of the other game lighting must also be out, because it’s so dark now. I’d never be able to play without the room lighting being turned up.

When you power on the machine the Pinstadiums have their own power and should show up in your networks no matter what. It sounds like maybe they're not getting power - I'd make sure there's no fuse blown where they're plugged in (service outlet in the machine?). The software on the pin should have zero effect on the Pinstadiums showing up.

#13307 7 months ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I finally upgraded the software to the Beta 4(12/23/22), now my Pin Stadiums don’t work

So the upgrade made the game better, that's good.

#13308 7 months ago

Does anyone notice any difference in the beta version?

#13309 7 months ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

Does anyone notice any difference in the beta version?

Beta D has 2 changes. 1) new OS; and 2) adds an audio graphic equalizer. Do note: Beta D has other issues. My headphones stopped working on installation.

#13310 7 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

When you power on the machine the Pinstadiums have their own power and should show up in your networks no matter what. It sounds like maybe they're not getting power - I'd make sure there's no fuse blown where they're plugged in (service outlet in the machine?). The software on the pin should have zero effect on the Pinstadiums showing up.

Fuse was okay, transformer/wallwart, not so good. Replaced the one that came with it, with one of a 100 I have laying about and the network reappeared, I connected it to the Internet, but still they don't light, no matter what adjustments I make in the app. I reset a couple of times, but no light.

Quoted from pinballizfun:

So the upgrade made the game better, that's good.

No.

Quoted from mrossman5:

Does anyone notice any difference in the beta version?

My theater is is now black between "awards" coming on. I forget what was there previously, but it wasn't blank. The Quantum guy misses registering hits often? It just seems terribly dark, but of course I'm battling with the Pinstadium issue. I can't believe this game is meant to be this dark.

#13311 7 months ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I can't believe this game is meant to be this dark.

I play in a pretty dark room. Here's my playfield next to Rush. Maybe you're having some lighting issues? I really like a bright playfield (and I LOVE Pinstadiums) but find Dialed in to be perfectly lit.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jx_8pKxFk71pkJa6N2Hmtzg51r7wlM5z/view?usp=sharing

#13312 7 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

I play in a pretty dark room. Here's my playfield next to Rush. Maybe you're having some lighting issues? I really like a bright playfield (and I LOVE Pinstadiums) but find Dialed in to be perfectly lit.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jx_8pKxFk71pkJa6N2Hmtzg51r7wlM5z/view?usp=sharing

Nice lineup!

#13313 7 months ago

IS anyone here using pinstadium ultra on DI? and if yes how did you wire the blue/red/green colors?

Thanks

#13314 7 months ago

I just joined the club with a routed standard edition with about 6,000 plays. The playfield has held up wonderfully, but there’s definitely some gremlins in the lighting. Specifically, the crazy Bob sign and left pop bumper lights are not working. However, when I disconnect the J101 ethernet cable they begin working (but many other lights get disabled until I reconnect it.) I tried another ethernet cable, and got the same result so I ruled that out. Any other tips on what I might check?

#13315 7 months ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

the crazy Bob sign and left pop bumper lights are not working

Someone smarter than me can help with the pops, but you might want to consider the Bob’s light mod from Mezel. It repositions the sign so you can see it during play, and illuminates it. You might work the issue out during that install. I’m on my 3rd DI and I’m about to install that mod again on this DI. The Station 1 sign mod from Mezel is cool too!

#13316 7 months ago

I decided to powder coat my DI SE. I’ve had DILE twice, and I love the blue on it. I wanted to try something blue/purple, kinda like the quantum haze on the CE. I had Steve at Pinball Refinery do it in Chameleon Violet. Don’t have the rails on yet, but you get the idea. I’m really happy with the results.

C21A51F7-4B84-4BE3-B511-2EE8725DD0DB (resized).jpegC21A51F7-4B84-4BE3-B511-2EE8725DD0DB (resized).jpeg11C775B0-4113-421A-9D68-53616F8E9FC7 (resized).jpeg11C775B0-4113-421A-9D68-53616F8E9FC7 (resized).jpegB13F318C-AF4C-4B66-B0E6-230A3C288706 (resized).jpegB13F318C-AF4C-4B66-B0E6-230A3C288706 (resized).jpeg
#13317 7 months ago

That looks amazing! Great job.

#13318 7 months ago

With the most recent beta, does this imply that Dialed In will eventually get an official code update with these tweaks?

1 week later
#13319 7 months ago

Folks, need help, looks like I've lost a load of fuses, this was during opening hours at our club so I couldn't look at it properly, is there that could go that would take all of these out?

Has anyone got a spare one of these boards they want to sell?

IMG_3418 (resized).JPGIMG_3418 (resized).JPG

#13320 7 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

is there that could go that would take all of these out?

Coin door open or high power interlock switch not enabled ?

LTG : )

#13321 7 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

is there that could go that would take all of these out?

F701 and F702, high voltage bride rectifier ?

I'd more suspect the high power interlock switch, not enabled or failed.

LTG : )

#13322 7 months ago

My back box light on dialed in is not working. I can not find any settings to turn it back on so maybe hardware issue? Any one else have this and find a solution? Thank you (I searched posts and found nothing)

#13323 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

F701 and F702, high voltage bride rectifier ?
I'd more suspect the high power interlock switch, not enabled or failed.
LTG : )

LTG - thanks

I’m pretty sure I had the button pulled but you might be right - the game started to crash mid game so I assumed it was something to do with this.

Neil.

#13324 7 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Stuck Ball issue Ive always had and now figured out why. When trying for skill shot or when a ball moves slowly up behind the pops the ball often gets stuck on this different kind of roll over switch I guess? Its a small metal stick coming out attached to the coil below. Any suggestions to make it stop contributing to stuck balls?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

anyone know the part number for this switch?

1 week later
#13325 6 months ago

Every once in a while you have a monster game. I struggled for the longest time to get showdown and somehow got it twice in one game! Turns out the SIM multiplier maxes at 10x but the modes were still worth a ton. Set to 3 ball. Love this machine! Will be sad to see it go.

IMG_2011 (resized).jpegIMG_2011 (resized).jpeg
#13326 6 months ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

Every once in a while you have a monster game. I struggled for the longest time to get showdown and somehow got it twice in one game! Turns out the SIM multiplier maxes at 10x but the modes were still worth a ton. Set to 3 ball. Love this machine! Will be sad to see it go.
[quoted image]

IMG_7783.gifIMG_7783.gif
#13327 6 months ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

Every once in a while you have a monster game. I struggled for the longest time to get showdown and somehow got it twice in one game! Turns out the SIM multiplier maxes at 10x but the modes were still worth a ton. Set to 3 ball. Love this machine! Will be sad to see it go.
[quoted image]

You had sim carryover on, right?

#13328 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballizfun:

You had sim carryover on, right?

Yes

#13329 6 months ago
Quoted from savannahga:

My back box light on dialed in is not working. I can not find any settings to turn it back on so maybe hardware issue? Any one else have this and find a solution? Thank you (I searched posts and found nothing)

Do you still have the problem? I also had it and I saw that that a cable had no connection, that was all.

#13330 6 months ago

Hi guys, I’ve recently brought a DI LE #248
Here in Australia. The game is in excellent condition, low plays etc… but I am having one annoying problem that is ruining the game. When we shoot the theatre (when lit) the magnet stops the ball and when it releases it goes SDTM almost every time!!!! Like every time. Not even nudging the pin makes a difference.
Is there any fix for this? Thanks
A0C78CB9-6A77-4A8F-AA01-87F4C0F24A30 (resized).jpegA0C78CB9-6A77-4A8F-AA01-87F4C0F24A30 (resized).jpeg

#13331 6 months ago
Quoted from Nato01:

Hi guys, I’ve recently brought a DI LE #248
Here in Australia. The game is in excellent condition, low plays etc… but I am having one annoying problem that is ruining the game. When we shoot the theatre (when lit) the magnet stops the ball and when it releases it goes SDTM almost every time!!!! Like every time. Not even nudging the pin makes a difference.
Is there any fix for this? Thanks
[quoted image]

Do you still have Mylar on the magnet in the theater? Sometimes it can ruffle up like a rug and cause problems

#13332 6 months ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

Do you still have Mylar on the magnet in the theater? Sometimes it can ruffle up like a rug and cause problems

No, there isn’t any on it. Is it supposed to throw the ball up or just drop it?
Thanks for your reply

#13333 6 months ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

Do you still have Mylar on the magnet in the theater? Sometimes it can ruffle up like a rug and cause problems

This and go into test and work on the theater magnet,it should at times zip the ball back into the theater like the shadow also most of the time the toy should move to block sdtm balls.

#13334 6 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

This and go into test and work on the theater magnet,it should at times zip the ball back into the theater like the shadow also most of the time the toy should move to block sdtm balls.

Thanks, I’ll try test mode. I just played a game and lost all 3 balls from the theatre sdtm in less then 2 minutes ‍♂️

#13335 6 months ago
Quoted from Nato01:

Thanks, I’ll try test mode. I just played a game and lost all 3 balls from the theatre sdtm in less then 2 minutes ‍♂️

What code are you on, I thought they added the moving target to block it in later code.

#13336 6 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

What code are you on, I thought they added the moving target to block it in later code.

In the test adjust the magnet timing -100 or -110 works well for some folks but experiment with yours until you get it throwing the ball around back consistently (except it never does during EMP strike mode by design)

#13337 6 months ago

That explains the score.

#13338 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballizfun:

That explains the score.

I'm still pretty happy with my score.

#13339 6 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

What code are you on, I thought they added the moving target to block it in later code.

there‘s a setting which causes the ball to be sent in a random direction when dropping out of the theatre and it has worked well for me, I very rarely have stdm.

Nice, I have a reason to pull out my very heavy users manual - it‘s Theatre Magnet Catch Behavior/TEST LAB under Adjustments. The manual is for Software Version 1.52.

#13340 6 months ago
Quoted from Nato01:

Hi guys, I’ve recently brought a DI LE #248
Here in Australia. The game is in excellent condition, low plays etc… but I am having one annoying problem that is ruining the game. When we shoot the theatre (when lit) the magnet stops the ball and when it releases it goes SDTM almost every time!!!! Like every time. Not even nudging the pin makes a difference.
Is there any fix for this? Thanks
[quoted image]

As others have said there are adjustments for the magnet settings. Also, I found balls get magnetised easily on this game and when they do the SDTM thing can happen. Once I swap in new balls, with no other changes, I get the correct behaviour where the magnet stops the ball and then sends/throws it up not down.

#13341 6 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

What code are you on, I thought they added the moving target to block it in later code.

My understanding is that the main situation where the ball is flung from the theatre magnet up into the skill shot area is when you have a package ready for pickup. Otherwise the game will just hold and then release the ball to travel downward. However, as described above, with the exception of during the EMP mode, the QED guy moving target should head to the center to help block the ball from going straight down the center. While he may screw up due to unpredictable trajectory of the ball and his timing, he blocks the ball from draining 90+ percent of the time. Actually, pretty cool software change that controls the moving target to prevent drains. The magnet test is more focused on how long the ball is held before it releases or flings the ball which can sometimes help with the flinging part, but most of the time the game is designed to just hold and drop. It makes sense to check the clear covering material on the magnet as it can interfere with ball behavior if it is worn.

#13342 6 months ago

Thanks for everyone’s help and input. I now have a bit to work with tonight! The QED guy doesn’t move to centre up so I’ll check what code it’s running and try all these tests and adjustments. You guys are awesome

#13343 6 months ago
Quoted from Nato01:

Thanks for everyone’s help and input. I now have a bit to work with tonight! The QED guy doesn’t move to centre up so I’ll check what code it’s running and try all these tests and adjustments. You guys are awesome

Another last-resort solution could be to raise the leg levelers slightly on the left side, to give you a slight left-to-right tilt. Just enough to allow the ball to hit the tip of your right flipper. You probably prefer a level left/right playfield, but if all other options aren’t working, might be worth a try. Better than SDTM.

#13344 6 months ago

Another last-resort solution could be to raise the leg levelers slightly on the left side, to give you a slight left-to-right tilt. Just enough to allow the ball to hit the tip of your right flipper. You probably prefer a level left/right playfield, but if all other options aren’t working, might be worth a try. Better than SDTM

Thanks, yeah I agree. Better than this SDTM all the time

3 weeks later
#13345 5 months ago

I made it into the club! This one has been on my wife's list for a while, and we picked on up. It was on 1.73, and I upgraded to 1.75 and am now getting this screen. It still boots through, but looks like it's about to crash before that. Anything to worry about? Any way to fix it?

DILE Load Screen (resized).jpgDILE Load Screen (resized).jpg
#13346 5 months ago
Quoted from atum:

I made it into the club! This one has been on my wife's list for a while, and we picked on up. It was on 1.73, and I upgraded to 1.75 and am now getting this screen. It still boots through, but looks like it's about to crash before that. Anything to worry about? Any way to fix it?
[quoted image]

Normal

2 weeks later
#13348 5 months ago

Hey guys I picked up a Dialed In LE yesterday. I played a bunch of games and noticed I never got Bettys arm to move. I went into test and activated her arm. It moves a little bit in test but that’s it. It does not go all the way down to the playfield.

#13349 5 months ago
Quoted from murfe88:

I never got Bettys arm to move.

I don't know crap about jjp pins.

I'd look below the playfield. A rod rides on a cam which moves her arm up or down. See if it came apart. Looks like a small leg leveler and a couple springs.

Page C-60 in the manual has a drawing which shows it.

LTG : )

#13350 5 months ago

Thanks Lyon , The motor is spinning all the way around. Looks like the rod is binding up. It’s not dropping when the motor is in the down position. I can manually pull it down but won’t drop on its own.

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