I understand your frustration all too well. I have now played enough games and smashed enough right ramps to say that this mod is a 100% fix and I can’t possibly miss the switch.

You nailed it! There was a broken wire on the upper flipper! Thank you!

I get the same errors on boot up. Game plays fine otherwise. Any help is appreciated.

Just a quick update, eventually the fuse blew again, and I just could not figure out why. I called up Pinsider DEFONZE88 who I purchased a pristine Rick and Morty and Willy Wonka who is alao much smarter than me in troubleshooting pins. He drove up to my place and I cannot thank him enough as we found the problem and we were able to correct 100% of the challenges I had with my DI. We saw that the kickback coil was arking to the apron. The coil was cooked and once we disconnect it EVERYTHING worked, all drones the trough VUK and the auto launch and has been for hours and many games later. I ordered a new coil from JJP and will install it once it arrives! Such a great feeling to have everything working again!!!

Turned on DI today and it just gave lights, no signal to the monitor. Fuses look good and it was fine last night. There is a light blinking red next to the CPU. Any thoughts?

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I'd try jump starting the motherboard.

LTG : )

Took out the phone video card and it booted up fine. Plugged it back in and no boot. Replacement card is in the mail.

On my dialed in the left loop trap door sticks open. I can get it to close when I push on the part that's attached to the little coil. It works for a few times but then gets stuck up again.
I believe it's the little coil, but not 100% sure

I'd try a little oil where the red arrows point. The latch that locks or releases, a little grease along the edge would be better.

Work it up and down a few times then see if that helps.

LTG : )

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First thing tomorrow. Results to follow

How did you know to pull the phone card?

Saw another post about the same issue. Can’t recall the number.

Was a bit squealy and that seems to have solved it so far.
Thanks for the help

Replacement card (from eBay) worked 100%. Machine booted up with no issues.

What was the card?

+1

Definitely do what LTG said. Also, the metal flap on my trap door was hitting the wireform above it. It had actually created a tiny groove that the metal flap would get stuck in and keep it from closing. Filed down the underside of the wireform and problem solved. Just something else to check. Good luck!

MSI Radeon R6450-MD1GD3/Low Profile

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That is hard on the metal flap and will break it off. You can space the wireform up a bit.

LTG : )

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Will do. Thank you!

So my theatre screen on my DICE is black last few games. I reseated the vga connector, took the metal top off the theatre and reseated connectors to the video board. It worked for a minute but once I put the metal top back on them reinstalled the glass it was black again.

Time for new board and screen? I’m familiar w changing them since I just did my phone screen and they look identical.

I've had pretty poor success with the "washer in the solenoid" approach (which restricts how far the trap door can open). The washer just gets out of wack and the door gets stuck. When this happens, every 20 or so games, I need to take the mech apart and reseat the washer.

All of that is to say -- I'm going to try the simple and obvious approach (in retrospect!) LTG posted. I'm pretty sure the wire ramp will not be happy about bending it this way, but it's not so much that it will cause trouble.

Having an odd thing happen where the left loop enter switch (optos) will register when the playfield is up but not when it’s put back down. They’re secure so I’m not sure why that would have a difference.

I'd guess connector issue. Playfield moving up or down pulls or pushes a wire harness. Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed - then lift playfield up and down, see if it registers on the screen.

Then go over wiring and connectors for it.

LTG : )

Yeah, it activates like crazy when lifting the playfield in test. I’ll comb through it more soon.

In test with playfield up and back. Pull a bit on the harnesses, try and narrow down where the issue is.

That will help you isolate and fix.

LTG : )

My theater screen went out so I finally got around to replacing it. Definitely easier than changing the phone. Same parts. Remove 4 screws and the roof comes off the theater. Two nuts hood the board and screen in place. Changing parts and reassembly was straightforward. Only issue was the new screen had a silver metal bezel that was quite noticeable. I took it apart and used electrical tape to black it out with good result. $77 in parts total for screen and display board.

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I recently picked up a DI and noticed that the kickback plunger occasionally fails to kick the ball up into the playfield. It is intermittent with at least half of the kicks ending up in the phone scoop but the rest get a notable thud with the ball continuing down the drain. I do get the ball back but something seems off here. Anyone else have this issue?

Also, I've noticed occasional left flipper "flutter" during multi-ball. I'm not sure if that's intentional or not. Curious to know if anyone has had that issue, as well.

Great thread, and I apologize if these topics have already been brought up in this thread, as I have not read through all pages yet.

Was the flipper being attacked? In Under Attack multiball, the theater, mechanic and QED will attack the flippers. Those are the lines of oval inserts. If the attack, the red (mechanic), yellow (QED) or blue (theater) lights, reaches a flipper, that flilpper will flutter. Hitting the target where the attack came from before it reaches the flipper will award a Super Jackpot.

You’ll need to adjust the timing for the kickback. You can do this in settings. It’s in milliseconds from the time that the ball rolls over the out lane switch to the time the kickback triggers.

Or….

Check to make sure there is a coil sleeve on the kickback coil. My brand new Wonka was doing this and I looked and saw it was missing the sleeve from the factory. Put in a new one and works perfect every time.

I am in desperate need of a good scan of the area of the playfield around the sim card hole to see if what I can do about fixing a playfield issue (see attached image) on a DI I picked up. Any ideas where I might get it?

Thanks

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Hi guys,
How do you align the flippers on dialed in? on mine they r aligned with the return lane but the right orbit seems hard to hit.

Thanks

Mine are aligned roughly with the lanes so that I can only just backhand the left ramp and the phone scoop.

My standard shooter rod broke and I couldn’t find a replacement that I felt fit perfectly. So I made my own based on the bullet train in the game (see images below the rod and from the game screen and note how different they are). I 3D printed it at 100% infill and it is rock solid so far.

I’m not going to be selling these as I’m terrible at painting and they are too time consuming so I’ll post the file here for anyone interested in DIY.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5777399

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How can you delete all the pictures if you go to sell machine?

Go into Resets - Reset High Scores.

LTG : )

Thank you sir

I've been meaning to ask - does this mean Jack is swinging a hammer with everyone else on the manufacturing line, or is this a son, or? I can see the founder wanting to get his hands dirty, but listing his name in the manufacturing credits...caught my attention.

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Rumor has it that he turns one screw on the first machine of every Title

First post.
Bought a standard edition week before christmas. It's not in mint condition, there are issues, but overall I would say it's ok. It's fun to play and my wife likes it and that is the most important to me.
Many issues I have discovered in the game I have found answers to in this thread. The broken of spring steel flap on Bob's trap door being one of them. I didn't notice at first. It's my first game with a trap door and I didn't realise there was supposed to be a flap to cover the gap. The shot around the orbit doesn't always make it all the way around to the upper flipper but I thought that was the way the game played...

Anyhow. I found a trap door online and ordered one. I will try to upload a picture (but since I was refused a job as an IT expert at NASA I'm not sure I will succeed) but my question is this. What is a non faulty trap door supposed to look like?
The one I recieved has:
A hinge that is crooked and has dug it self into the plexi cover on one side creating a gap.
A plexi cover that is convex and bulging outwards.
The different layers of the door doesn't have the same length.

I'm sending it back. My plan is to order another one from the same company as I can't imagine that there will be more than one on their shelves looking as bad as this one. Bad decision?

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Most say you don’t even need the flap!game still plays fine.

Need and want are two completely different animals.
Question is what to expect from a replacement. Many members of this fine establishment has received a new directly from JJP. This is not possible anymore as they don't have them anymore. But this question is to those who did.
What did it look like?
What is to be expected from a replacement part that is claimed to originate from the stockpile of JJP?

Hey man I can't tell from the photos. What was broken on the trap door/flap?

I completely understand,I would want my game to me complete also!

Look at where the hinge meets the plexi cover. It’s unlevel on one side and creates a gap. I know gap is the wrong word, english is a second language, but the transition from plexi to hinge should be level. Or should it not? I might be wrong…
My opinion is that this trap door, meaning this particular one, should have been at some point caught by quality controll and never reached a costumer. Should not have been sent out to me.
But I have no experience of other replacement trap doors. It is this experience I am searching for.
Plan is to get atleast some experience by sending this one back and at the same time order another one.

I have an SE and would love to get the LE ramp lights. Do you think an aftermarket solution could be created? Would it work with the existing boards? I would love to find a donor ramp that could plug and play.

My other thought was to just add additional lighting behind each little sign on the ramp.

Scorbit v1.3.0 is up:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/15#post-7358304

Ok cool man. Thanks!! No I understand what your saying. Thanks