Quoted from podolj:Any help would be appreciated.
Push the little bastard in harder until it locks. Leave the switch on when you do this for better leverage.
LTG : )
Quoted from podolj:Any help would be appreciated.
Push the little bastard in harder until it locks. Leave the switch on when you do this for better leverage.
LTG : )
Quoted from podolj:I have always had issues with the "Start" button on my Dialed In. If I try to push the "Start" button on my machine, the other end comes out( see pics). I have taken pictures, I am just not sure if I am missing a part or need to replace one. Any help would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like the switch has sperated from the light socket portion. See that red button on the switch? That's what registers the start game. Try to snap those pieces back together. Then I assume the start button twists in to the socket
Quoted from PinballTilt:It looks like the switch has sperated from the light socket portion.
The switch needs to be lifted up a bit too. The top hole the red arrow is pointing to should snap onto the peg the other red arrow is pointing to.
LTG : )
8c62591325b3d6ea48bf2c72f2018b078e282dc8 (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:The switch needs to be lifted up a bit too. The top hole the red arrow is pointing to should snap onto the peg the other red arrow is pointing to.
LTG : )
[quoted image]
thanks all for the advice. i will try it.
Quoted from rai:I was just concentrating on the QT multi ball today and finally got it lit on last ball only to drain before starting it.
You get it yet? It’s the best multi-ball!
Quoted from DropGems:You get it yet? It’s the best multi-ball!
NO!
I usually get stumped on Drones, I am not sure how to make the drones easier to collect in the settings.
Quoted from Kevlar:That didn't last long, yesterday it started playing up again. This time I connected the computers DVI output to another monitor via a DVI to HDMI adapter and it worked fine so it's definitely the monitor. I removed the monitor and took it apart, nothing obvious was noticed. Re-seated ribbon cables within the monitor and looked for loose connections/bad solder joints but nothing seen. There are 3 caps on the board although I'm not sure a 5 year old monitor should have failing caps, I might try replacing them anyway. Refitted it and it's still the same, sometimes works fine from boot, I even managed 4 games without issue. Turned off, then back on later and no screen again. I've asked my distro to get me a price from JJP ( I'm in the UK ), I'll ask local electronic repair shops or I may try changing the caps.
Following on from my last post, the monitor eventually stopped working altogether. I tried but failed to find a decent local repair shop willing to have a go at repairing it. It's 2 weeks since I asked my distro for a price from JJP but he thought it would have to be at least £300 or £400, I'd guess probably even more now. I took a chance and bought a 27" monitor off Amazon ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B4WHT2DL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it works great. Of course mounting it was the main issue, I managed to use the original backplate with some extra brackets to make use of the VESA mount on the new monitor. Using the original backplate meant I could use the pivot arm and the side latches so all is good.
Quoted from ripit:I would like to see a picture of that when mounted. Thinking outside the box. nice
Not pretty but functional. I'm sure someone could make something better.
IMG_20220923_143424 (resized).jpgI just took a look at my Hobbit and it looks the same. Seems like that would work for most JJP's. Doesn't look bad at all
Changed out my phone screen and board as it was going all white then black. $77 from jersey jack for the new parts. Getting the ribbon cable plugged in was the hardest part of the repair.
0F905C2F-E219-4A7F-A25C-F859256C98BF (resized).jpeg28E8F9B4-1D16-4B1A-A38D-6C025524F504 (resized).jpegB0BC9B6B-27FF-4B7A-B475-E3946DA4D6AA (resized).jpegQuoted from ripit:that is not bad on the price. My screen gets flaky every now and then.
I purchased this screen and board combo from Wish no issues with it - got some on e-bay and no no no
Quoted from rai:Just got to Quantum theater multi-ball for the first time, lots of fun!
Def awesome!
Just sold my dialed in this past weekend. Def one of my favorite games I’ve owned and possibly Pat lawlors best! Shoots like absolute butter.
Quoted from DropGems:Just sold my dialed in this past weekend. Def one of my favorite games I’ve owned and possibly Pat lawlors best! Shoots like absolute butter.
Amazing game of Dialed in, well worth a watch ( warning...well over an hour! ) from the UK Open 2022 semi final match.
Had that yesterday also on my game, luckily after trying again it booted well.. so have no solution for you if it never goes further..
Check if every connector is still ok, especially the usb between cpu and driverboard ?
hello everyone, just posting on behalf of a friend who owns a Dialed in. HE is not aware I am doing this and sort of took it upon myself to try to fix the issue...
He has been having an issue with the cellphone in the game, the screen is not showing any image and I think it had to be unplugged to allow the game to boot up.
I have not yet looked at the game, but before I do, just wanted to know if anybody else here has experienced issues with the cellphone (little screen) monitor and it causing the game to not boot up?
Full disclosure, I am quite well equipped and technically experienced and etc to fix most issues on a pin but never owned a JJP so I am taking my first run at this system. Please be patient with me while I learn the nooks and crannies of it but I am fast Wirth this stuff.
At this point all I want is just some quick feedback as to what the cause it might be and if we are possibly looking at a major issue or board replacement of sorts?
with this info, I will then approach the game and start my own trouble shooting and report back, thank you
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:...He has been having an issue with the cellphone in the game, the screen is not showing any image and I think it had to be unplugged to allow the game to boot up.
...
The cell phone LCD is known for being flaky. I haven't heard of it preventing the game from booting, however. In absence of that information, I would have suggested the basic steps of checking that it's connected at the PC as well as on the phone board. There's a ribbon cable adaptor so both sides would need checking. Also the power connector.
However, they do break and you may need to order a new controller board (+perhaps the screen).
On rare occasions I've hard of the additional video board going bad too (in the PC case)... but hopefully that's not the case.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:with this info, I will then approach the game and start my own trouble shooting and report back, thank you
The screen in the cell phone and theater are the same. In the back box you can switch VGA connectors to see if it works or not. Most likely not.
I just replaced another cell phone screen ( LCD and board ) links are in this thread for a source to get them or contact parts at jjp.
Same display in the book on Hobbit and Pirates apron. I've replaced the Hobbit screen once and the theater on Dialed in once. I think I'm up to 5 in the cell phone on Dialed In, must be a heat issue, I suspect that big honkin transistor on the board behind the LCD.
I've never heard of one causing a boot issue. Easy to unplug the cellphone VGA connector from the motherboard in the backbox and see.
Don't forget to let jjp know you miss LTG : )
So looking at purchasing a DI eventually and the drones have a reputation of not working after awhile. Are these fixable or do they need to be replaced outright?
Quoted from manadams:Are these fixable or do they need to be replaced outright?
Use the search feature for this thread near the top right side of the page, or maybe FAQ's. 4 motors in there. Fixable. Or replaceable.
The newer versions of software don't spin them as much.
LTG : )
I have a really annoying ball trap on my game right before the quantum mechanic diverter. It's like the habitrail cross piece wasn't welded right and the ball actually touches it. Most shots will go thru fine but when the diverter is moving it will just stop the ball completely and it's hard to get it out without taking the glass off. Should I pull the habitrail out and bend down that cross member?
PXL_20221029_030923991.MP.jpgQuoted from Deez:Should I
Is it catching on the diverter ? If so you can adjust it below the playfield. It looks like a small leg leveler riding on a cam. It can be screwed up or down as needed.
LTG : )
7f8908459680e3bccb6ef17f90af706dd279fa0a (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:Is it catching on the diverter ? If so you can adjust it below the playfield. It looks like a small leg leveler riding on a cam. It can be screwed up or down as needed.
LTG : )
[quoted image]
It's hanging on the cross member on the habitrail. It clears the diverter fine.
Hey,
I recently noticed a problem with the theater magnet.
This one can no longer return the ball upwards.I can see it trying,the ball tries to go up but it ends up falling.
Looks like the magnet has lost power? Is it possible ?
Quoted from fredo62:Hey,
I recently noticed a problem with the theater magnet.
This one can no longer return the ball upwards.I can see it trying,the ball tries to go up but it ends up falling.
Looks like the magnet has lost power? Is it possible ?
Have you removed the Mylar that is attached to the magnet? Sometimes it gets wrinkled and causes problems.
Quoted from fredo62:Hey,
I recently noticed a problem with the theater magnet.
This one can no longer return the ball upwards.I can see it trying,the ball tries to go up but it ends up falling.
Looks like the magnet has lost power? Is it possible ?
There's a pretty cool adjustment you can make in the settings. You might find that's all it takes.
I don't have removed the Mylar but need to do it.
I have find the settings and the problem is solved.
Thank you to you 2
Having a real challenging time with my new dialed in. My current issue is that after a game the following solenoids will not fire off.
1. #19 Kickback
2. #21 Auto Launch
3. #22 Trough VUK
Kinda tough to play a game that will not launch a ball Any thoughts, are these all on the same board?
Quoted from brooklynknight:Having a real challenging time with my new dialed in. My current issue is that after a game the following solenoids will not fire off.
1. #19 Kickback
2. #21 Auto Launch
3. #22 Trough VUK
Kinda tough to play a game that will not launch a ball Any thoughts, are these all on the same board?
Ok I did further troubleshooting and in tracing the wires to the back box they all lead to J106; however, all looks good in that department, until I turned my attention to the fuses. I noticed that Fuse 706 was cooked. Can I grab a replacement fuse at Home Depot. If this fixes it I wonder why it blew in the first place. Going to try an obtain a replacement tonight and will let you know the outcome. Any other suggestions welcomed and thanks in advance.
Quoted from brooklynknight:Any other suggestions welcomed and thanks in advance.
No idea if you can find a 20mm fuse locally. I'd replace it and not worry about it. Unless it blows again right away.
LTG : )
Quoted from brooklynknight:Ok I did further troubleshooting and in tracing the wires to the back box they all lead to J106; however, all looks good in that department, until I turned my attention to the fuses. I noticed that Fuse 706 was cooked. Can I grab a replacement fuse at Home Depot. If this fixes it I wonder why it blew in the first place. Going to try an obtain a replacement tonight and will let you know the outcome. Any other suggestions welcomed and thanks in advance.
OK so far so good. Replaced the fuse and played a few games. All works well.
Ace Hardware may be more likely to have the correct fuse. Check to see if it’s slow blow or fast blow. Also, do not use more amps than designed.
This is a follow up to a post I made a while ago. I was frustrated with the fixes for balls missing the switch on right ramp/orbit. After having tried all of the suggested improvements I still found that a quick shot would hop over the switch so I decided to make a mod to fix it entirely.
This is only a status update as I’m not 100% satisfied with the model but it definitely does the job of ensuring fast shots never miss the switch. It’s meant to be a combination of the Station 2 building and the tunnel. I’ll post updates as I improve the model and paint job.
0122242C-D3D3-4607-9BC2-57BBB35D5D76 (resized).jpeg4084625E-9C6B-42E6-B484-4DD0A4D6AEC9 (resized).jpeg7E8A4E08-2DB9-4815-B8C1-14C0B73886CE (resized).pngA004AF0F-7CD4-40E5-9F99-C3D3A39D7CE3 (resized).jpegCC7C3084-998E-45D4-942F-C797263992F3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Navystan:Pretty much have my Dialed In, "dialed in." Added Pinstadium lights, Tilt gameblades, and Mezel Mod tower (my fav mod, nicely interactive). Game was sold with all the light mods. I also followed LTG's tech post about "greasing" a key point for the trap door. I was occasionally getting the door stuck open. So far, so good now. Anything missing I should do? Also, is it now normal for drones not to spin anymore? Mine are not and I don't see option in service menu to test for them to spin.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You can test the drones it is under tests, coils. I noticed that the two white drones only flash a blue light but do not spin. The black drone spins evertime. I am not in the mood to troubleshoot just yet. If anyone has had this issue let me know.
What size legs are on a dialed in standard? Just noticed mine are short but I'm not sure which to order.
Quoted from Deez:What size legs are on a dialed in standard?
Not sure if they are the same.
I have an LE with blue legs. 30 1/2 inches.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deez:What size legs are on a dialed in standard? Just noticed mine are short but I'm not sure which to order.
According to page C-3 in the manual. Standard, LE, and CE, all have 30.5 inch legs.
Call jjp and ask them to get LTG : ) Back.
Quoted from LTG:According to page C-3 in the manual. Standard, LE, and CE, all have 30.5 inch legs.
Call jjp and ask them to get LTG : ) Back.
Thanks. That's probably my issue. I must've put 28.5" legs on it. Not sure how I did that.
Quoted from Had:This is a follow up to a post I made a while ago. I was frustrated with the fixes for balls missing the switch on right ramp/orbit. After having tried all of the suggested improvements I still found that a quick shot would hop over the switch so I decided to make a mod to fix it entirely.
This is only a status update as I’m not 100% satisfied with the model but it definitely does the job of ensuring fast shots never miss the switch. It’s meant to be a combination of the Station 2 building and the tunnel. I’ll post updates as I improve the model and paint job.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks like a terrific mod. I’ve adjusted my switch but a really quick shot still doesn’t register, only occurs perhaps 5% of the time at best but if it happens during a Disaster Mode it’s super frustrating…….. thanks for posting what looks like the absolute solution
Hello, I'm getting errors for the end of stroke switches on left and right flippers. Says they're stuck open. Leaf switches appear fine but dint seem to be registering in the switch matrix test. Any help (known issues) is appreciated. TIA
Quoted from ggoehmann:Any help
Check all the end of stroke switches on all 3 flippers. Most likely you have a wire broken off of one causing the errors on others.
Former jjp LTG : ) tech guy.
Quoted from ggoehmann:Any help
Not as likely check that J601 is still plugged in on the I/O board in the backbox.
LTG : )
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