I just got a cheap one on eBay.

Hi DI fans, I have a DI LE and I don't get why mine has a plate in orange and blue (instead of just black). Is this custom or could you order it from JJP like that?

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An idiot painted it.

No it's not painted. Its 'original'. You can not paint things in that detail. Also on the cointdoor same colours.

Pic of coin door, please.

That looks 3d printed

LE coin door were black, just like the sign. Can't paint detail, you got parkinsons or something? It's not even the right font.

Oh god that’s funny!

Maybe it is painted....strange...not my work....

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Yeah, my vote is you purchased someones custom modz

The shooter rod plate and the coin door emblem are mods, there is nothing from factory. Could be fixed just by double sided tape. Your le plate "fits" that design. Can't believe someone painted it... Maybe your original plate is somewhere in the coin box or goodies bag?

I like them!

I think they're silly. But my wife doesn't give a shit what I think, so why should you?

No its not….can you order them from Jjp?

Those are definitely 3d printed not painted , you can see the stringing in the orange. Pretty good print job actually, but should be easy to remove.

I don't think so, but you could just ask them. I would try to contact privious owners, maybe someone has it still anywhere and forgot it. If you don't have success, just leave it this way and consider it as your special unique pin

Oh... Wait: did you remove the modded le plate? Maybe original is still under your mod mounted?

Semi-generic question: I picked up a DI LE yesterday and it shows about 40 plays on it. Obviously that's not right, so I assume it was reset with a software update. What does the update erase, and what does it maintain? It's too bad with a modern pin there wouldn't be a permanent count like on a Stern. Either way, awesome game, and matches my Wonka quite nicely!

I don't know what gets erased, but the lifetime plays does not really mean anything. its all about condition.

This is certainly true -- it is the definitive answer.

It's my understanding the upgrading the software (edit: via full) restores all settings to default, resets all metrics, and high scores to default.

This is why JJP has a "backup" option. Before upgrade, do a backup. Do upgrade. Restore backup.

But for JJP, the plays/metrics aren't reliable as "lifetime" values.

A full install wipes out most, if not all, settings. the delta's do not, if I recall correctly. The backup, as you noted, is the way around this.

Any insight on what propeller to buy lost my first one tonight just the plastic part still spins

I bought an isolator for $10 and it fixed the feedback noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09QCRGG81

Replaced the battery yesterday because when I turned the game on I got a boot up error so was worried it was due to battery. Anyway, I found it quite simple. Removed the video card first and used some dental picks I had to easily get it out. You should be able to pick up cheap dental picks at harbor freight

So if you removed the video card you switched off the pin…? I thought we needed it to be on during swap of the battery…?

Turn it off remove Video card, turn back on, replace the battery, turn off reinstall the video card, that’s how I did it.

Clear!

What’s the point in removing video card?

Check the manual. There are instructions. JJP recommends once every three years.

I was wondering if someone could lead me to where to connect ground loop isolator. I couldn’t find a key post on it. Thanks in advance!!!!!

You'll see if/when you ever replace the battery. It's right beside the battery and has an exposed fan. Makes it more challenging than it needs to be

It was said that the machine was turned back on after removing the video card, which means the fan would still be spinning… correct? I’ve changed my battery. I am aware of the fan and changing battery with no problems.

Need some help…my trap door is only partially open making for a very difficult Bob shot. How do I adjust the screws? Do i need to take the mech apart? I can’t get a screw driver in this space. Also, the metal flap broke while I was was trying to make adjustments.

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Unplug the male cable going into the pink female jack on the sound board, plug that cable into the female port on the isolator, then plug the male cable coming from the isolator into the pink jack.

Thank you!!
Now that I’ve looked. I’m plugged into the green Jack. I’m cornfused. I’ve had DILE for three years but never looked at this before.
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On the motherboard the green Jack is correct - that’s the output heading for the sound board, which is in the board in the middle between the ATX and the motherboard. On the sound board, the input is the top (pink) Jack. All you are doing is putting the isolator between the motherboard out and the sound board in. So you could put it at either end if you wanted to but it’s easier to Mount somewhere inside the metal box with a tie wrap or something.

Again! Thank you! It’s been accomplished

Absolute amazing tutorial on how to play Dialed In. This really shows that the final wizard mode needs something to finish it off. Needs a little polish. Just feels incomplete on a game that deserves the cherry on top of the Sunday. Also would like to see the SIM cards not top off at 10 x, after the first time Showdown was completed there was nothing else to shoot for. No incentive to keep collecting them.

This game was live streamed on twitch, Batcave Pinball. Mike Banter took the night off and Eric the weatherman Stone did a nice job filling in.

https://twitch.tv/batcavepinball
Here’s a link to the 1 1/2 hour game of Dialed In Babee!

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A couple issues I could use some advice on:
-One color on one of the BOB standup RGBs is out. What are my options?
-My back glass is a bear to get back in and lock properly. It really wants about 1/8" more clearance. I can pull up near the lock and the key will fully rotate to lock, but then when I stop lifting it's putting pressure on the glass which seems like a bad idea. I read there was a slightly shorter cam that JJP starting using mid-production. Is that available somewhere?

I can't guarantee it'll help, because I can't see the details of the issue you're having, but we can sell you a new lock and key.

51-005012-02
$8.99 + shipping.

Please put a ticket in at http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Support-Form/ if you'd like to purchase one.

I don't know if it is a newer design or if it is different in any way from the one you currently have, but it might be worth a shot.

Regarding the BOB targets, attach a picture or short video showing the issue to the ticket and we'll get you taken care of.

You may need a new DI Left Shots RGB LED Board.
15-000053-13 ($99.99) or 15-000053-03 ($98.99) depending on when your machine was made.

I have a similar issue, where the "red" color in two of the BOB targets is weak, and sometimes off. Maybe it can be resolved by resoldering some connections on the board, but I'm not sure it may make things worse. I was told that the 15-000053-13 board has replaced the older (and less reliable) 15-000053-03 board, and was made by a different supplier. But now I get the impression that I better replace my defective ...-03 board with another, new ...03 board. Can you please give some guidance?

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Have a look at this thread, a few different potential fixes explained:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/di-cant-get-into-my-backbox

You need not worry - the -13 board is the drop in replacement for the -03. You don't have to worry about having to find an original -03 out there somewhere.

I had read through all of those, but the only two solutions seemed to be cutting wood (yikes) or an updated replacement lock. Which may or may not exist, but I'll know when mine arrives. It seems like such an oddball problem that would be super glaring at the factory. Of course, with 18 million parts on a pin a "glaring problem" might still blend in.

My left flipper has starting becoming erratic like firing rapidly real quick and feeling off. It’s subtle but screwing up my game. Any idea what’s going on? I’ve never dealt with pinball flipper issues before. Thx

Think I had this issue.. check under the playfield and the extend the gap of the flipper contacts so it’s the same as the other..

Sorry for the obvious question, but just to check, is this only happening during multiball?