(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

7 years ago


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  • 13,611 posts
  • 741 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by SlapDrain
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders

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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,611 posts in this topic. You are on page 255 of 273.
#12701 2 years ago

I had a tough time getting that coin cell out of the holder from my WoZ before figuring out how. Pulling the cell out was basically impossible.

However, the cell pops right out, if you push it in on one side. I know, counterintuitive, but the socket is intentionally uneven inside on the bottom so that the cell pops out when you push one side in.

#12702 2 years ago
Quoted from maur:

I posted this before and I will repeat it again, changing the battery should NOT be this difficult. My experience was a nightmare. I had to go into the BIOS with a keyboard in order to get it to work after changing a battery. What a complete joke!
Maurizio

Did you have the game on during the job?

#12703 2 years ago

I remember following the instructions in the manual. I can’t remember if the game was on or off. But I remember the nightmare that followed clearly. Be careful changing the battery!

Maurizio

#12704 2 years ago

When changing my battery. I followed the directions and left the machine on. It worked perfectly fine.

#12705 2 years ago

I'm pretty certain you must leave the machine on.

Also, I'm pretty certain this isn't a Dialed In specific task but rather across all JJP machines --- FWIW

#12706 2 years ago

Duplicate

-1
#12707 2 years ago

I would never ever change the battery with the system running. Too much could go wrong. There is not much to do after changing the battery, only the multimonitor option in the bios.

#12708 2 years ago

But isn't it the point, why did they make it so difficult. Pinballs have needed batteries for decades, surely they could have designed an easier simple way that anyone can do with little or no effort. After all, this isn't a particularly "new and innovative" feature. To think that you need to follow instructions to change a damn battery and still, for most of us, have complications, is ridiculous. I had to get a wired keyboard to go into the bios? Really? I don't know, maybe I'm too old and expect too much. I mean, car companies have made changing the oil and filter on a car impractical for someone to do it on their own.....

Sorry for the rant, I'm feeling grumpy today for some reason

Maurizio

#12709 2 years ago
Quoted from maur:

But isn't it the point, why did they make it so difficult. Pinballs have needed batteries for decades, surely they could have designed an easier simple way that anyone can do with little or no effort. After all, this isn't a particularly "new and innovative" feature. To think that you need to follow instructions to change a damn battery and still, for most of us, have complications, is ridiculous. I had to get a wired keyboard to go into the bios? Really? I don't know, maybe I'm too old and expect too much. I mean, car companies have made changing the oil and filter on a car impractical for someone to do it on their own.....
Sorry for the rant, I'm feeling grumpy today for some reason
Maurizio

It’s a bios battery for a computer. They’re needed. Even your desktop PC will need its battery changed after a while. I just had to do mine recently. It’s just that most people get a new PC before the battery becomes an issue.

#12710 2 years ago

I had scheduled myself to do pinball battery work this weekend so it was coincidental this topic came up ...

Replaced 27 AA Lithium batteries on Williams / Stern / Data East machines.

Then decided to look at Dialed In. For me, this turned out not to be a big deal at all. Having never done it, it took 10 minutes and the included opening up the pin as well as getting the new CR2032 out of the plastic. This isn't to say the battery replacement situation is good, but I didn't find it horrific.

There is, of course, specific instructions in the manual. But here's what I did...

1. Remove translite
2. Release and fold out the LCD
3. Remove the 4 screws holding the CPU case on
4. Power on DI
5. Using a little screw driver (like a jewelry one), push it between the clasp and the battery and then tilt the end up. Yes, be aware that video board right to the left has a spinning fan.
6. Battery pops out, lands on bottom of CPU case
7. Insert new battery. This took a little work because my hands are big and yes, there's a spinning video board fan right there

BTW, this was the original CR2032 and it read 2.89V when I took it out. JJP says below 3V can cause problems, so it probably getting close to time to replace. I suspect the motherboard is happy with it even a bit lower.

In case anyone doesn't know what the battery location looks like, here's a pic. Battery is close to the center of the pic.

IMG_0779 (resized).jpegIMG_0779 (resized).jpeg

#12711 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It’s a bios battery for a computer. They’re needed. Even your desktop PC will need its battery changed after a while. I just had to do mine recently. It’s just that most people get a new PC before the battery becomes an issue.

Except that on a PC, unless you physically cut power directly at the outlet, your pc always have 5v stdby on, which is used to power the CMOS. So the battery very rarely drains. Whereas in a pinball, you actually shut it off completely.

#12712 2 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I havent yet, mainly because I didnt know what I've changed in settings and didnt want to figure it out.

I also did a settings backup and restore, all very simple, just have to read and take your time but yes the battery shouldn’t have been placed there!

#12713 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Except that on a PC, unless you physically cut power directly at the outlet, your pc always have 5v stdby on, which is used to power the CMOS. So the battery very rarely drains. Whereas in a pinball, you actually shut it off completely.

True. Except my mistake was always turning off the surge protector for my desktop since other things were hooked up to it. I’ve fixed that practice now.

#12714 2 years ago

I removed the Video card while it was turned off , then turned it on to replace the battery , gives you a lot more room......

#12715 2 years ago

New at this... is there a way in the test menu to check the charge of the 2032 battery? I just bought a DI and the born date was February 2018. The instructions on how to change the battery is very clear in the manual.

Also some times when I hit the ball into the theater the ball just hangs in there and I have to shake the pin in order for it to roll down. I don't have any SDTM issues however?

#12716 2 years ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

New at this... is there a way in the test menu to check the charge of the 2032 battery? I just bought a DI and the born date was February 2018. The instructions on how to change the battery is very clear in the manual.
Also some times when I hit the ball into the theater the ball just hangs in there and I have to shake the pin in order for it to roll down. I don't have any SDTM issues however?

Game power off. Take your multimeter set to dc voltage. Leave battery in place. Touch top of battery with red lead, touch ground somewhere with the black lead. 3volt battery - new ones usually read 3.2 or 3.3. If it gets below 3.0 change it carefully with game power on.

#12717 2 years ago

For the theater magnet, if the magnet core originally had mylar over it, that can get cut over time or wrinkle up and make the surface not smooth. Also the mylar when gone leaves a gluey residue - best cleaned with a pencil eraser by reaching in from the front.

#12718 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Game power off. Take your multimeter set to dc voltage. Leave battery in place. Touch top of battery with red lead, touch ground somewhere with the black lead. 3volt battery - new ones usually read 3.2 or 3.3. If it gets below 3.0 change it carefully with game power on.

Thank you very much I'll check it out

#12719 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

For the theater magnet, if the magnet core originally had mylar over it, that can get cut over time or wrinkle up and make the surface not smooth. Also the mylar when gone leaves a gluey residue - best cleaned with a pencil eraser by reaching in from the front.

Thank you also, I'll check it out as you described

#12720 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

For the theater magnet, if the magnet core originally had mylar over it, that can get cut over time or wrinkle up and make the surface not smooth. Also the mylar when gone leaves a gluey residue - best cleaned with a pencil eraser by reaching in from the front.

You are right on target. It was the mylar getting wrinkled. Clean it up and works perfectly. Tomorrow I'll venture to check the battery. It will take me longer as my monitor has the screws holding it to the pin instead of the magnets and extension arm -- probably a good indicator that I may have to change the battery. I have new ones and when tested they read 3.2Volts. I'll let you know Pinballomatic, and again, thank you.

DI is a fun pin, I'm having a blast with it.

#12721 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Game power off. Take your multimeter set to dc voltage. Leave battery in place. Touch top of battery with red lead, touch ground somewhere with the black lead. 3volt battery - new ones usually read 3.2 or 3.3. If it gets below 3.0 change it carefully with game power on.

Once again, thank you pinballomatic. The battery was very low 2.1 volts. Got a fresh battery in with 3.2 volts. Not an easy task to change this battery.

#12722 2 years ago
Quoted from altan:

I had scheduled myself to do pinball battery work this weekend so it was coincidental this topic came up ...
Replaced 27 AA Lithium batteries on Williams / Stern / Data East machines.
Then decided to look at Dialed In. For me, this turned out not to be a big deal at all. Having never done it, it took 10 minutes and the included opening up the pin as well as getting the new CR2032 out of the plastic. This isn't to say the battery replacement situation is good, but I didn't find it horrific.
There is, of course, specific instructions in the manual. But here's what I did...
1. Remove translite
2. Release and fold out the LCD
3. Remove the 4 screws holding the CPU case on
4. Power on DI
5. Using a little screw driver (like a jewelry one), push it between the clasp and the battery and then tilt the end up. Yes, be aware that video board right to the left has a spinning fan.
6. Battery pops out, lands on bottom of CPU case
7. Insert new battery. This took a little work because my hands are big and yes, there's a spinning video board fan right there
BTW, this was the original CR2032 and it read 2.89V when I took it out. JJP says below 3V can cause problems, so it probably getting close to time to replace. I suspect the motherboard is happy with it even a bit lower.
In case anyone doesn't know what the battery location looks like, here's a pic. Battery is close to the center of the pic.
[quoted image]

Thank you altan. Your instructions on how to change the battery was right on target. In particular the use of a small screw driver to remove the old battery. The use of a folded tape per the manual does not work very well at all. Your photo help a lot as well.

#12723 2 years ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

Thank you altan. Your instructions on how to change the battery was right on target. In particular the use of a small screw driver to remove the old battery. The use of a folded tape per the manual does not work very well at all. Your photo help a lot as well.

It is safe to remove when the power is on? Does it save your scores and settings?

Thanks!

#12724 2 years ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

It is safe to remove when the power is on? Does it save your scores and settings?
Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-owners-change-your-batteries-if-you-haven-t-it-s-easy

#12725 2 years ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

It is safe to remove when the power is on? Does it save your scores and settings?
Thanks!

Yes, very safe. Forget the scores, you must do it with the power on or the pin won't even boot because of the bios settings.

#12726 2 years ago

Noob question... The bulb that lights the coin slots I believe is supposed to be a 12V.

Today I tried a 6.3V and it got super hot.

I thought a lower voltage bulb would draw less power, or is it that the machine is trying to push more power to it than it can handle, hence the overheating?

#12727 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Today I tried a 6.3V and it got super hot.

Once it melts it will go out.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I thought a lower voltage bulb would draw less power,

Rethink that idea.

#12728 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Once it melts it will go out.

Rethink that idea.

So the 12V is being sent to a 6.3V, overloading it?

#12729 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So the 12V is being sent to a 6.3V, overloading it?

YES

#12730 2 years ago

Sweet! Just learned something new!

Thanks

#12731 2 years ago

Any suggestions on how to fix SDTM drains from the theatre magnet?

What flipper should it go to when released?

What pitch is suggested for this game?

#12732 2 years ago

Check you have the latest code. The QED guys should intercept the ball on the way down on the rare occasion that it is released back down. Mostly it should flick the ball back up around to the top flipper for a ramp shot. If you have latest code, you may have to dial in the magnet behaviour. There are posts on how to do this. It requires patience. Check the magnet for damaged Mylar. There are posts on removing that.

#12733 2 years ago

Is that the code that came out in the last few months with the Scorbit stuff?

#12734 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is that the code that came out in the last few months with the Scorbit stuff?

1.75 came out in October and had some tweaks along with adding Scorbit but the code that included the QED movement as described above came out a while before that version. Also make sure that your magnet is flinging the ball around the back correctly as it is supposed to much of the time.

#12735 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is that the code that came out in the last few months with the Scorbit stuff?

theres a setting somewhere to mess with the magnet power that helped me. Mine drops the ball straight down a lot as well but as someone said the power company guy seems to be coded to get in the way of that most of the time now.

#12736 2 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

theres a setting somewhere to mess with the magnet power that helped me. Mine drops the ball straight down a lot as well but as someone said the power company guy seems to be coded to get in the way of that most of the time now.

Device test - theater magnet - mine works best when set on -100

#12737 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Any suggestions on how to fix SDTM drains from the theatre magnet?
What flipper should it go to when released?
What pitch is suggested for this game?

Your best shot is to play with the theater magnet setting. Mine is around -130 but from what I've seen everyone has a different setting.

In test mode you should see the ball stop on the magnet then be thrown up with enough power to go all the way to the upper right flipper.

In game you will know you have the right setting if the magnet does what the screen shows. Passthrough if you see a spinner, Stop and up with the volcano, send back with the drop target.

I had some STDM issues with the phone scoop but never ever with the Theater.

#12738 2 years ago

Hello to all! So this morning the machine developed a issue, the train station is clicking (releasing ball mech) constantly. (see video) The game is is not "telling" about a faulty switch at start up.

Any input will be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks!

~ja

#12739 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hello to all! So this morning the machine developed a issue, the train station is clicking (releasing ball mech) constantly. (see video) The game is is not "telling" about a faulty switch at start up.

Any input will be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
~ja

Look along the bottom of the station - you can see the opto transmitters receivers on either side of the channel. You don't need to remove the station cover - just look along below it on both sides - my guess is that one has fallen out of its mounting hole and thus tricks the game into thinking a ball is there.

#12740 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Look along the bottom of the station - you can see the opto transmitters receivers on either side of the channel. You don't need to remove the station cover - just look along below it on both sides - my guess is that one has fallen out of its mounting hole and thus tricks the game into thinking a ball is there.

Hi! thanks for your reply but I don't think it is the case (photos below)

Best,

~ja

IMG_8902 (resized).pngIMG_8902 (resized).pngIMG_8903 (resized).pngIMG_8903 (resized).png
#12741 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hi! thanks for your reply but I don't think it is the case (photos below)
Best,
~ja
[quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, so that wasn't it. If you go into matrixed switch test, do any of those four read as open rather than closed?

#12742 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Okay, so that wasn't it. If you go into matrixed switch test, do any of those four read as open rather than closed?

Thanks! I think we found the culprit... ball lock three is open while the other are closed (photo attached)

Lastly, is it normal that the coil fire several times when one of the other 3 optos gets triggered during switch (matrix) test? (video)

IMG_8906 (resized).pngIMG_8906 (resized).png
#12743 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Thanks! I think we found the culprit... ball lock three is open while the other are closed (photo attached)
Lastly, is it normal that the coil fire several times when one of the other 3 optos gets triggered during switch (matrix) test? (video)
[quoted image]

Yes more or less. Check that opto pair back to the opto control board (they are both mounted on the metal case around the moving QED guy). See if it is plugged in there and follow it along to inspect the wiring in between.

#12744 2 years ago
Quoted from maur:

I don't know, maybe I'm too old and expect too much.

Nailed it!

#12745 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yes more or less. Check that opto pair back to the opto control board (they are both mounted on the metal case around the moving QED guy). See if it is plugged in there and follow it along to inspect the wiring in between.

Hi!

I checked the wiring and the connection to the board, they seemed fine, no nicks, no loose connections. I was able to source the optos from here (if someone needs them)

https://octopart.com/opb100-ez-optek-55476349

But in the meantime, is there a way in the settings to enable virtual locks at the train station while I wait for the new pair of optos?

Many thanks!

~ja

#12746 1 year ago

Ha! so while checking the optos I decided to swap the connections of the optos: Defaut : Opto 3 is blue Opto 4 (last) is violet, I connected Opto 3 on connection 4 and viceversa... at the switch matrix test, the same opto, opto 3 is still reporting "open" is this a faulty opto board?

Sigh...

~ja

#12747 1 year ago

Joining the club with an LE on Sunday. Played when it first came out and always wanted to get one. Lots of posts to sift through.

#12748 1 year ago
Quoted from Groo:

Joining the club with an LE on Sunday. Played when it first came out and always wanted to get one. Lots of posts to sift through.

Cool. Same story here. I’m also joining the club with an LE on Monday.

#12749 1 year ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

totally agree... I would love JJP offering an option to turn the drone activity back to the original level. I have modified my drones to protect the motors and would love to see the spinning like in the good old days.

Going through a lot in this forum to try to catch up. I was wondering about the drones as well not spinning during the game but working fine during the test. Also had errors on the Bob trap door being "broken" and won't raise during testing, but it sure does in the game. Didn't search this yet but does everybody hate the screen locks or am I just not used to putting it back in to place after the 3 hours of owning it yet?

#12750 1 year ago

Just bought a dialed in off pinside. Having issues with the monitor. Worked when I first fired it up but now I’m getting monitor issues. Any thoughts? Thx

95750394-E3C0-4DA3-B878-20867CC1B642 (resized).jpeg95750394-E3C0-4DA3-B878-20867CC1B642 (resized).jpeg
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