First time, you just have to complete the first mode. After the first MB, you light the lock by hitting both ramps. After the second MB, you have to hit both ramps one after the other (a combo). I’m not sure after that. I’ve never had more than three of the regular MBs. I’m assuming it is the same from there on in.

I see this has already been answered but I will leave it up in case it helps.

You do need to shoot both ramps to light lock. However, when you start a game you need to start a mode before you can light Lock.
This keeps a player from having a multiball before starting a mode.

Ok I get it now. Is it always a 2 ball multiball or does it go up with each round ?

I bought DI instead of Guns and Roses because I wasn't into the multiball frenzy but I wouldn't mind one once in a while !

It starts as a 2-ball multiball with add a ball.

When you learn the shots, there’s plenty of multiball. Not only that but you can have a beer when you lock a ball. Pretty sure the the ball number increase with each multi ball. You can get 3 balls in the physical lock.

Correct.

Surprisingly I got my first 3 ball mb right after reading your answers !

At first I thought the 2 ball mb was a consolation prize for players who suck and I'm definitely one of those for now but I'm getting better at it !

I plugged in a keyboard and it seems like the BIOS is password protected. At least the delete key brings me to a password prompt. I couldn't get anything off of F2, F10, F12. Escape brought me to a Ubuntu menu. Password entry sometimes goes to the main display, and sometimes to the phone. Would need to confirm with the motherboard that delete is the correct key, but that is far as I'm going to go with my working game.

That would surprise me. That would suggest that some power is always flowing to the electronics even when the power is off. I would think the on/off switch opens the circuit. How is that with PCs - is there power to the battery when the PC is off, but plugged in?

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As I tend to note everything about DI I remember that somebody said something about a password „qmodem“. Maybe this is the BIOS password?

+1

I can confirm that at least for my game. Also I broke my Bluetooth dongle while removing it from the front USB cord

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Edit: After some careful surgery, it's back in operation. By the way, the app seems to be doing scorekeeping now. Unfortunately, the score (and the highest score) is always 0. Can anybody share some thoughts on this? Not that I really need that feature, I was just wondering...

Nice. Best would be if you could simply make screenshots of all BIOS settings - it will always be available here! I‘ll store them in my archive anyway...

Seems odd you can't get a straight answer. Maybe it's because not every motherboard is the same?

Still looking for some help on most of these - much appreciated!

Also, is the left orbit supposed to go all the way around and feed the upper right flipper? Mine never makes it all the way around and drops into the pops. Any tweaks I can do to improve that? Thanks!!!

As far as I know all DI are using the MSI H81M-P33, at least I haven’t seen a different one - every mainoard is the same.

That is odd, mine isn't protected. I had an issue where my bios turned off the onboard video, was only using the external video card. Took me a little bit to figure out but there wasn't any passcode to get into the bios.

This is correct also

There is definitely something special with DI, I had friend over last night, WOZ got played once while 10 people were waiting to play DI.

I must say playing WOZ felt slow and clunky for me too, but I won't draw conclusions as to letting it go too fast, it might just be a temporary attraction to the new toy.

So since these games are PC based, does that mean that we should hunt down a motherboard to keep in stock for a spare? What happens 15-20 years down the road if these motherboards quit working?

I bought a couple last year. My WOZ RR has the same one.

Yes.

Why not try a rewax? Won't hurt. Also replacing balls regularly won't hurt.

That's not uncommon. I feel as if the backhand is a more reliable shot, but some games I can't make that phone scoop. There's people who have moved the whole scoop assembly a few millimeters further back, but I personally would not go that far. Most of the time, I make the shot eventually. so I can not be bothered to much by it.

You mean it rests in the "rocket kicker" but the switch is not actuated? See if you can adjust the switch using the mounting screws (i don't know how the switch is mounted tbh.) before you try bending it.

Yes.

Yes, it is designed to go all the way around, but a dirty / to-be-waxed playfield, weak flippers (flipper power can be set in software) or wrong playfield angle can lead to the ball dropping into the pops more often than usual. Also make sure there's nothing blocking the ball. (Dislodged plastic or rubber or something)

anyone ever take a JJP playfield protector off of one of their machines? is it easy?

I just got a DI with one on there and I really don't mind it, but was wondering how much of a pain it would be to try and get it off.

I've removed the protector from my dialed in.
Quite easy with good scissors.
Did not affect so much the game play, as opposed to deadpool were that was a game changer

I changed my battery last night as I had to get into my backbox to install trans light LED. WOW - what a PITA to change the battery! Spinning fan less than 1/2" from the battery. Felt like a game of operation... not a good design!

I also had to trim up my backbox and change out my lock arm so I could remove my glass like 'normal'. I totally get some manufacturing errors but this seems like basic stuff for someone to check before it left the factory. However given the PO never had to go into the backbox I guess is a good sign

DI was new cabinet design by Pat and his team - anyone that was present at the live reveal at Expo that year will remember this for sure. So yeah that new design had its tweaks once they started being built in numbers by the cabinet manufacturers but it has lived on through WW and GnR to better results. I do hear you though.

Did you take pictures by any chance? I’m sure I can find it but was also curious what batteries do I purchase? It’s getting close to three years for my DI and PotC. I have never changed batteries in a modern pin before

And therefore I think it’s better to only change the battery when the machine is off. At lot of bad things could happen doing that when powered on. I personally think this was a doubtful decision to recommend this in the manual.

If the only thing in the BIOS is the power on at power failure setting, doing that powered down is much much more secure.

But just in case it would be nice if somebody could take photos of all BIOS settings and post them here...

Don’t you lose settings and high scores if you change batteries when machine is off?

Back them up to a flash stick first then reinstall using utilities menu

cr 2032 common 3v pc battery
Staples 2 pack used to be 5$

Thank you!

I didn't take a pic, sorry.

Take off the panel the LED strip is attached to, you will have to disconnect the LED strip. The battery is on the far right side and is a CR2032, in a tight spot.

Per the manual the battery must be changed with the machine powered on or you risk loosing the BIOS and machine won't startup properly.

From Butch Peel's excellent DI manual - always free download from our website.

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My only build to this is that you will want some sort of plastic spudger to help push up on the metal clip that holds the battery in. There was no way I could have undid the clip with my fingers.

You take the ~1" piece of tape, put it on the battery, unclip it with the spudger and then use the tape to remove it - it's a total PITA and will be even more PITA if you have large fingers. Putting new battery in is easier as you don't have to get it unclipped.

I just did some fishing around in the BIOS. qmodem worked for the password. I was able to disable it in the security settings by changing the admin password and leaving it blank. I can't think of any reason to have the BIOS password protected for a home machine.

I was going to backup the BIOS settings, but I used the last USB port for the keyboard. I probably have a little USB hub somewhere, but I think I have all of the settings. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

If anyone sees a setting I missed let me know, keyboard is still plugged in. That monitor is a bitch to get back in place.

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When I changed the battery on my WOZ, my finger had an unfortunate encounter with the spinning fan. Needless to say, my blood (literally), sweat and tears have gone into maintaining that game.

I hit the fan with my fingers a few times... thankfully just a weird noise and a lot of surprise!

Sounds like there's a market for JJP Battery Changing Cut Resistent Gloves! Maybe the mods guys will get on it.

Maybe repackage this:

https://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Resistant-Glove-Hands-Kitchen/dp/B001QXZORE

I was just looking at this! Thanks

Geez, you weren't kidding.

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got #65 set up last night, so much fun. definitely a very underrated machine. came with a playfield protector on it. I don't mind it, but am curious if others think I should remove it. I do not plan on selling it ever.

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Good idea. I actually bought a few pairs of these the other day. I’ve had a few unfortunate incidents with knives and other sharp objects this past year.

I just went to change the battery. I didn't really have a good non-conductive tool to release the battery and decided there is way too much room for error to do this with the power on. I took one for the team. Lets see if I can brick an $8k game! After the battery was installed, as expected, the game didn't boot. Then I panicked for a second, if the power on after power failure wasn't checked how would I power it on to change it? I didn't see a power button. I would have to short the 2 pins on the power supply which is a pain. Then I realized the BIOS screen was on the phone. Awesome! I can just compare settings with my pictures and I'll be good, except the screen is so small you can't read the text. I was pretty sure I found the setting, but didn't want to chance it so I plugged in another monitor. Initiate graphic adapter needs to be set to IGD. Every other setting was the same as far as I could tell. I'm back up and running now.

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My phone scoop sends the ball SDTM, 1 out of 10 times which is starting to be frustrating. I tried setting it up higher but the ball hits the rails, and lower the ball barely comes out
Is there a secret trick to avoid that ? My game looks decently levelled so I don't know what else to try.

Thank you very much! I think many DI owners will be happy to have these screenshots over time...

Over all I do not plan to change the onboard battery while power on, way too risky with my clumsy fingers.

I wonder why power on after power failure was still active. You really had to set the IGD setting, nothing else?

Power on after failure must be the default for this mobo. It typically isn't from what I've experienced.
The graphics adapter was the only thing I changed. I quickly compared everything else to my pictures and didn't see any other differences.