Just checked and mine is the same as yours.
Just heatshrinked and not attached to anything.

No. Page C-135 in the manual. #10 . Not used.

LTG : )

I put off updating to 1.73 long enough, and finally attempted the update today. First I tried the update to 1.60, but something isn’t going right. I have tried multiple laptops and multiple usb sticks, but I’m obviously doing something wrong. Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong by looking at these pics?

2C5624A7-032C-422D-8737-93E3BF965D77 (resized).jpeg

DB16A4D7-4432-42CC-8759-E84B517D06EE (resized).jpeg

Are you following the Full Install instructions carefully. USB stick 8GB to 16GB. Nothing else on it ?

By the looks of your games screen, the game isn't seeing what it wants on the USB stick.

LTG : )

Thanks for such a quick response, Lloyd. That seems like exactly what I’ve been doing. I bought a brand-new 16GB thumb drive today. I’m not sure what formatted or unformatted means, but I assume it’s good to go.
I have updated my Stern games many times with no problems. I assume it’s the same concept and steps, right?

Some differences.

Your game might not like what you are trying.

When I plug a USB stick into my computer. I bring it up. Left click once - then right click. Hit format. My Windows 10 automatically has FAT 32 as default.

You could dry downloading the full install from the other mirror other than the one you used.

LTG : )

F*CK. I did the delta load to the USB stick. Sorry about that.

You need the unetbootin download and open that to put the full install download on your USB stick.

Sorry. I'm tired and been under a lot of pressure lately.

LTG : )

Follow the Full Install directions on the website. Pictures and instructions lead you through each step.

LTG : )

Thanks. I’ll go the unetbootin route. That must be the problem.

I had to use a flash card plugged into a usb adapter to get the last update to work. I tried 6 thumb drives then thought what the hell, I'll try it. The 32gb card worked. Keep trying different usb sticks etc. I don't know why it's so finicky.

Just picked up a DI and have some questions. I started reading this thread from the start but am only ~25 pages in so forgive me if this question has been answered

What coil strength setting are people using on the upper flipper?
I'm having a hard time getting the ball up into the lock.

Does anyone adjust the coil strength for the phone kickout?
I'm getting some kickouts that are hitting the wireform when the ball is ejected.

Also where do I go to check out what code this machine is running?
Tried finding in the menu but it's crazy compared to my TZ!

Pic added for fun!

8F55B8EA-FFDA-4C3C-A341-564862DDB9D0 (resized).jpeg

Coil strength is a personal choice. If you bought this used then it's possible the original owner tuned it to their liking.
So just start adding to the upper flipper strength 1 at a time until you are satisfied. I actually lowered mine as well as my main flippers.
Yes. Turn phone kickout down. I've never had that happen personally.
Code can be seen on boot up or enter the diagnostics screen and check the bottom right corner. Full is 1.60 and delta is 1.73.
https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

I have had mine for about a week now and have been really enjoying it. One small issue is that the ball frequently gets stuck on the robot diverter if the shot up that ramp isn’t solid. Is that pretty common or do I need to adjust my diverter down more?

That’s not common. It could be the arm needs adjusting. You could also try upping the pitch of your game a bit, especially if it seems slow in other ways.

Easy to adjust. Turn the game off. Under the playfield you can see the mech. There is what looks like a tiny leg leveler that rides up and down on a out of round wheel on an axle. Above the leg leveler looking thing is a nut. Loosen the nut. Turn the leg leveler looking thing up or down as needed. Retighten the nut. Done.

Page C-59 in the manual. Part #15 in the leg leveler looking thing.

LTG : )

nut is 7/16”

I would suggest to release a full update to the latest version, this would reduce the confusion a lot...

It’s coming soon

Sorry if I'm being dense but are you saying a new code is coming for DI soon?

Wow... That would be awesome if that's the case!

What I was saying is that in order to enable the wifi updates concept launched with GnR the older games need a code update. The word I heard was that when this was being done there would most likely be a new full install software version which would being everything together so 2 updates were not required as they are now.

Cool - so wifi updates are coming to the older games? That would be great!

This is my belief at this point. I don't have certainty on this but I believe so.

anyone know where i can get a rules card? Mine is damaged and JJP says they don't have any more...

maybe this helps
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/12#post-5267214

You could also decide to remove the instruction card holders entirely and enjoy an unobstructed apron artwork

yea thats what I have now, it looks cool, just think the shiny rules card is nice

it is indeed

JJP did indeed confirm with me that DI will get a code update to enable internet connectivity and Wi-Fi updates. They said it's coming soon.

loving this game! I do have some questions/minor issues

- maybe I’m going crazy but I feel like the right ramp doesn’t always register during modes though I know the orbit and wire form switched are working

- theatre, in test mode I can get it to fling around 100% of the time but it feels like some games it never does it while others it’s pretty consistent. At times it doesn’t look like it’s even attempting the fling so it makes me think it’s not supposed to. What % of specific items/animations do the fling around?

- about 50% of scoop outs from the phone hit the edge is the right sling, do yours always feed the right flipper perfectly?

It's great to see much more demand for this game now and so many more appreciating its greatness. Seems g@r has made non jjp fans look at all other jjp pins also. Seems many are looking for dile and Wonka le now . Both are amazing games and glad they are getting the attention they deserve. I said it years ago that di will be a must have years from when it came out and looks like were beginning to see that. Only thing is they are done making di apparently... so cld be difficult in the near future to find one. Same goes for wonka le ..seems many are looking , but not many around nib and also seems it's done being made . If your on the fence with dile I'd recommend getting one soon. The same for wonka le. Both are my favorite pins of all time and glad I was in from the beginning. Also looking fwd to some hopeful surprises with the new code updates for all the older jjp pins.

In my opinion the right ramp switch is positioned too close to where the wireform meets the ramp, a really fast ball can get a little air and miss the switch. You can try adjusting the switch or turn flipper power down.
If the ball from the scoop is catching the slingshot, try bending the top of the scoop down. I believe it straightens over time ( it's not braced on the back )which leads to the ball catching the wireform overhead and getting deflected. That's what was happening on my machine anyway. You could also adjust the scoop power.

Thanks, any thoughts on the theatre? Like I said, I'm not even sure that it isn't working. It works well in test mode and in certain games it throws the ball around, other games it rarely does, though it doesn't even look like its trying. How often does the theatre throw the ball around? Also, in the adjustments, is -90 a longer or shorter pause time than -130?

I can check later, I think mine is at -130, but you should take the glass off, go into test mode and keep putting the ball into the magnet until it functions like it should (throw the ball around and doesn't drop).

Yup, done that. Works perfectly in test mode. Though I think its hard to duplicate the speed in which the ball hits the magnet in test mode. I feel like because there is a bit more wiggle when the ball is stopped full speed the delay needs to be longer for the real thing. Though its hard to test during a game if I don't know which theatre modes actually are meant to throw the ball around.

Some of the modes are not supposed to throw the ball around. The simply drop the ball straight down the middle. Thats when hopefully the magnets catch it (EMP Strike) or the moving target stops it from dropping between the flippers.

I'm a JJP fan, what GnR did was to make me look into getting a Dialed In

When not in a mode, which hurry ups fling it around? Boxes/drones/spiders/rockets etc. Is it supposed to be all of them?

Seems that's the story I've been hearing ... many are looking at all their titles now..

I am pretty new to this game so I can't accurately answer this question. I can tell you that it's not all of them. Some do and some don't. As a result, I am always ready for the ball to be headed SDTM.

My shaker works fine until the ringing phone, when the ringing stops and it’s on vibrate its you like the shaker was just weird and I thought something was up.
I turned it off for ringing in the settings and now I’m not panicking there is a problem.

Dang this thread is hopping again! I'm thrilled that DI is catching on, finally.

Drones flings it for me.

So for 1 and 3 turns out I was not level lol

It was adjusted all of the way up already. I ended up taking the whole assembly off and found that there was a spot inside where the link was rubbing on the inside of the robot's body. I trimmed out the area where the interference was and got the arm working smooth now. The only way a ball will get stuck now is if it just barely makes it up the ramp and the diverter is down. It is livable for sure now. Thanks for the help!

Hey all-I've had my DI for a few years now, and it's held up really well, but there are a couple of nagging issues that I wanted to see if anyone had solutions to.

First, the theater screen seems to be a little flaky. It'll go out, or solid blue with "VGA" on it. This seems to be fixed (at least temporarily) by reseating all the connectors, including the power to the screen. Just wondering if this is a common issue, and if anyone has a more permanent fix for it. Seems to be happening more often these days.

I've also noticed that when the game is idle, there's a lot of speaker noise-kind of a low-pitched electrical flutter. I think it might be solved by adding a ground loop isolator-is this something others have needed to do? It doesn't really seem noticeable in gameplay, so I haven't really worried about it much, but if it's an easy fix, then it's probably worth doing.

Ground loop isolator - yes

https://www.amazon.com/Kript-Eliminate-Electrical-permalloy-Transformers/dp/B01N7QSOO8/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0

A new problem has cropped up on my DI. The phone screen will either go black or mostly black in the middle of a game sometimes. It will then stay that way until I power cycle the machine. Any ideas on what might be causing this? I just got this machine out of the box less than 2 weeks ago so I’m sure JJP will take care of me if need be.

Here is a picture. Sometimes is is completely dark and others it looks like this.

B1ED7357-2F70-4B7D-850A-BD64C357D639 (resized).jpeg

Mine used to go black, the game would continue to run normally until I recycled the game. I never saw the blue screen however.
Once I updated to the latest code I never saw that problem again, not sure what code you are on