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(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 11,497 posts
  • 598 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Tranquilize
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11497 posts in this topic. You are on page 225 of 230.
#11201 29 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I should say that the first sign mine are getting magnetized tends to be irregular returns from the phone scoop. This is followed by the ball sometimes (though rarely) sticking to the trough when it drops in and not rolling down to trigger the opto.

So what's the best way to check if your balls are magnetized? I do have some irregular kicks out of the phone scoop and wonder if one of the balls is magnetized?

#11202 29 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

So what's the best way to check if your balls are magnetized?

See if a paper clip is attracted to it.

This helps for the ball trough - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 they'll likely have it in stock again.

LTG : )

#11203 29 days ago

Do you need to add mylar to the areas where the ball drops on the playfield, like out of the station lock and upper playfield?

#11204 29 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

A metal piece at the top. Snap rivets hold in place. Screw and bolt to the plastic.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

thank you

#11205 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Do you need to add mylar to the areas where the ball drops on the playfield, like out of the station lock and upper playfield?

I put Cliffy's Universal Switch Slot Protectors under where both balls drop from the rail forms to the inlanes. They are expensive as heck but they will do the trick on this game.
I imagine when you say upper playfield up top you mean that flat piece above the pops where it goes in that hole or on the flat plastic when diverter is down?
If so that's a lot of mylar to cover. Maybe directly under the hole I guess but I don't see the drop off of the plastic ever hitting the same spot with any consistency like the wire forms. Check to see if some is already in the area. JJP is pretty decent at putting factory mylar in some high traffic areas and it blends way better than aftermarket.

#11206 29 days ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

I put Cliffy's Universal Switch Slot Protectors under where both balls drop from the rail forms to the inlanes. They are expensive as heck but they will do the trick on this game.
I imagine when you say upper playfield up top you mean that flat piece above the pops where it goes in that hole or on the flat plastic when diverter is down?
If so that's a lot of mylar to cover. Maybe directly under the hole I guess but I don't see the drop off of the plastic ever hitting the same spot with any consistency like the wire forms. Check to see if some is already in the area. JJP is pretty decent at putting factory mylar in some high traffic areas and it blends way better than aftermarket.

The ball dropping from the station lock, about a 1.5 inch drop every time you hit the side ramp. Then off the front of the upper playfield it’s like a 2.5 inch drop

#11207 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

The ball dropping from the station lock, about a 1.5 inch drop every time you hit the side ramp. Then off the front of the upper playfield it’s like a 2.5 inch drop

I put a one inch square piece of mylar under the station lock. Not sure it was necessary, but you can’t see it and it can’t hurt.

#11208 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

The ball dropping from the station lock, about a 1.5 inch drop every time you hit the side ramp. Then off the front of the upper playfield it’s like a 2.5 inch drop

If you feel it's something that you want to personally do to further protect your investment then definitely do so. I know Marco has some really sizeable mylar choices because I bought some years ago for some of my older titles. Lots of choices. Make sure the area is very clean, no dust around and don't handle the mylar with your fingers. Use tweezers or a knife edge etc.... I personally put a coat of wax down on the area and buff it off prior to application.
I'm not marketing for this company, I just know they have it. I'm sure many other reputable pinball supply establishments offer similar products at equally fair prices.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-MYLAR
r/
Mike

#11209 29 days ago

Does everyone's Robot diverter spotlight kind of flicker when it is on? Mine does but it may be normal. Just not sure.

#11210 29 days ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Does everyone's Robot diverter spotlight kind of flicker when it is on? Mine does but it may be normal. Just not sure.

Normal 12v

#11211 29 days ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Does everyone's Robot diverter spotlight kind of flicker when it is on? Mine does but it may be normal. Just not sure.

The light is driven by a coil driver (see coil test "Betty Spotlight"). Close coin door to see it activate during the test. Afaik the flickering is on purpose (does not flicker during test mode) to mimic a broken advertising sign lighting.

#11212 29 days ago
Quoted from the_zap:

The light is driven by a coil driver (see coil test "Betty Spotlight"). Close coin door to see it activate during the test. Afaik the flickering is on purpose (does not flicker during test mode) to mimic a broken advertising sign lighting.

That’s pretty cool actually. Thanks for the info!

#11213 29 days ago

do you guys have shooter lane cliffys on your game? Overkill?

#11214 29 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

See if a paper clip is attracted to it.
This helps for the ball trough - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 they'll likely have it in stock again.
LTG : )

That seems like an inexpensive solution. I put a notification for when they come back in stock.

#11215 29 days ago

I noticed a coin reject button LED out so I replaced it with a few different Cointaker and PL LEDs. They all got extremely hot and very quick, one to the point of soft/melting. Then I noticed the ones that were in it are 12v and the ones I put in were 6.3v. Where can I find 12v LEDs?

#11216 29 days ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

I noticed a coin reject button LED out so I replaced it with a few different Cointaker and PL LEDs. They all got extremely hot and very quick, one to the point of soft/melting. Then I noticed the ones that were in it are 12v and the ones I put in were 6.3v. Where can I find 12v LEDs?

Comet.

https://www.cometpinball.com/
prices are already very reasonable but if you watch a couple of the big streaming pinball guys you can usually find a promo code.

#11217 29 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

See if a paper clip is attracted to it.
This helps for the ball trough - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 they'll likely have it in stock again.
LTG : )

You can get it for free to print on thingiverse

#11218 29 days ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Does everyone's Robot diverter spotlight kind of flicker when it is on? Mine does but it may be normal. Just not sure.

Mine also does that. I was worried for a while too, but it is normal

#11219 29 days ago
Quoted from Thot:

You can get it for free to print on thingiverse

Just found it! Might have been your comment saying it worked on DI, but someone confirmed it. thanks!!

#11220 29 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Has anyone tried heating the balls in an oven to demagnetize them?
I had a recollection that heating would eliminate magnetism from engineering school 20 years ago...

Yes, unfortunately that temperature is 1418 degrees Fahrenheit and my oven won’t go that high, even though you can’t tell by the taste of my wife’s meatloaf.

#11221 29 days ago

I read somewhere that you can "cancel" a multiball by pressing both flipper buttons to start a mode instead. However when I press both buttons before mutliball it just cuts the animation but starts multiball anyway. Is there a way to stack multiball with a mode?

#11222 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I read somewhere that you can "cancel" a multiball by pressing both flipper buttons to start a mode instead. However when I press both buttons before mutliball it just cuts the animation but starts multiball anyway. Is there a way to stack multiball with a mode?

You're not doing it at the roght time. When the phone is ringing for multiball to begin is when you do it. This way you can start a mode and THEN shoot the cell phone. You're double flipping to disable the phone scoop multiball ringer the first time.

#11223 29 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

You're not doing it at the roght time. When the phone is ringing for multiball to begin is when you do it. This way you can start a mode and THEN shoot the cell phone. You're double flipping to disable the phone scoop multiball ringer the first time.

ahhh gotcha, so before I even hit the scoop. Makes sense, thanks

#11224 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Might have been your comment saying it worked on DI, but someone confirmed it.

Works on any Williams type ball trough. JJP, CGC, AP.

LTG : )

#11225 28 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Works on any Williams type ball trough. JJP, CGC, AP.
LTG : )

Thanks. My buddy is printing one for me. One last question, so I got the noise filter for the static issue but when I plug it (go between between the pink jack) sound only comes out of one speaker. (Almost sounds like it stops using the backglass speakers and sub, and is using some tiny speaker). I tried two filters because I thought one might be bad but both do the same. Suggestions?

#11226 28 days ago

Doesn't it go into the green one ?

LTG : )

#11227 28 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Doesn't it go into the green one ?
LTG : )

This is how it is now.

C9386EDC-F08A-4EF0-83E2-358D918AE449 (resized).png
#11228 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

This is how it is now. [quoted image]

Pink jack - it goes into the pink jack that is the input.

#11229 28 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Pink jack - it goes into the pink jack that is the input.

Steve when I Add the filter , only one speaker works it seems. I actually purchased two different ones and tried. I can link you to a video if you want to see

#11230 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Steve when I Add the filter , only one speaker works it seems. I actually purchased two different ones and tried. I can link you to a video if you want to see

Sure - not every single brand works 100 pct but are you saying that both behave the same way?

#11231 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Steve when I Add the filter , only one speaker works it seems. I actually purchased two different ones and tried. I can link you to a video if you want to see

Remove wire coming from motherboard into pink jack (3.5mm mic-style cable). Plug wire from Motherboard into female port on filter. Plug male cable coming from filter into pink jack. That's it.

#11232 28 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Remove wire coming from motherboard into pink jack (3.5mm mic-style cable). Plug wire from Motherboard into female port on filter. Plug male cable coming from filter into pink jack. That's it.

Yup, it’s pretty straight forward. I’ve hooked up a ton of audio. Here’s my video. Hope it translates. Audio in the beginning working like a champ other than static, sub is working too, at the end it sounds like maybe the sub isn’t working and it almost sounds like one speaker only.

#11233 28 days ago

Not all filters are equal. I’m taking out the noise sometimes it will black some of the desired sound too.

#11234 28 days ago

Reseat every audio cable you have. The static on the front end sounded more intense than most I’ve heard.

#11235 28 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

You're not doing it at the roght time. When the phone is ringing for multiball to begin is when you do it. This way you can start a mode and THEN shoot the cell phone. You're double flipping to disable the phone scoop multiball ringer the first time.

Hmmm doesn’t seem to be working? To confirm, when the phone is ringing for multiball if I press both flipper buttons it will be cancelled? Nothing seems to happen

#11236 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hmmm doesn’t seem to be working? To confirm, when the phone is ringing for multiball if I press both flipper buttons it will be cancelled? Nothing seems to happen

Tap-tap.......tap-tap

#11237 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hmmm doesn’t seem to be working? To confirm, when the phone is ringing for multiball if I press both flipper buttons it will be cancelled? Nothing seems to happen

You have to do it as soon as you lock the ball and the phone shows that it is ready. Tap both flippers multiple times to make sure you get it. Wait too long and you’ll miss it.

#11238 28 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Tap-tap.......tap-tap

Hit both flipper buttons twice as soon as the phone rings. What version of the software are you on?

#11239 28 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Reseat every audio cable you have. The static on the front end sounded more intense than most I’ve heard.

What other audio cables are there that could affect this? I ordered a better in-line from crutchfield. Hope it works

#11240 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Hit both flipper buttons twice as soon as the phone rings. What version of the software are you on?

1.73

I’ll try it the second it starts ringing

#11241 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

What other audio cables are there that could affect this? I ordered a better in-line from crutchfield. Hope it works

the cables going to the sound board of any kind, make sure the outbound green jack on the motherboard is securely in place. Slide the male cable that is going into the pink jack out about 1/16 and see if the sound gets better.

#11242 28 days ago

Ok tapping right at the start of the phone call worked

#11243 28 days ago

Just joined the club - really enjoying DI.

#11244 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Ok tapping right at the start of the phone call worked

Thanks for this. I was confused as well. Am not aware of another game trigger/cancel involving multiple presses of both flippers.

#11245 28 days ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Just joined the club - really enjoying DI.

It’s awesome. I can’t backhand them damn phone scoop on mine though lol

#11246 28 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

It’s awesome. I can’t backhand them damn phone scoop on mine though lol

Having a blast with mine as well! I can just backhand the scoop on mine. Not much room for error though. I’m still waiting for the isolator for mine to get here. Mine was manufactured in July of 2018 so should be very similar to yours.

#11247 28 days ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Having a blast with mine as well! I can just backhand the scoop on mine. Not much room for error though. I’m still waiting for the isolator for mine to get here. Mine was manufactured in July of 2018 so should be very similar to yours.

I’m curious if yours works. I tried 2 and although the noise goes away so does the base

#11248 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Ok tapping right at the start of the phone call worked

I found that I was tapping too soon.
My current technique is to double tap, pause, double tap again.
This always works.

#11249 27 days ago

Is this black wire and yellow/brown wire supposed to be connected to something?

20201028_185339 (resized).jpg
#11250 27 days ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

Is this black wire and yellow/brown wire supposed to be connected to something?
[quoted image]

Not necessarily. Are you getting any switch errors? The upper left flipper doesn't exist on this game but does in the harness so it looks like its wires are tied off.

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