This is a pretty damned good deal. $50 + $3 shipping to Canada! Bought an extra set. May as well, for this price!

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Thank you very much for this. I didn't even know it was supposed to do "the shadow" fling. Now I have that feature!

Is my crazy bob sign in the stock position? And is the small sign to the left a mod or a stock plastic? Thanks!

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No. Someone split up the sign and moved both sections to face the player. Some people do this to better see the sign.

Gotcha, thanks!

Does anyone have a pic of where the bob signs are screwed in

Thanks for this, I plan on keeping the game a really long time so this makes sense to have a back up. Also the manual was only $40 and one of the previous two owners much have kept it. $95 shipped for both seems great to me. thanks for sharing!

You should be able to look on that area and see screw holes. Bob sign with the leds to the left and the non lit sign at a 90 degree angle to the right of it

This is what I did and they mailed it right to me

Hope these help.

LTG : )

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I like it! Just for the sake of argument, couldn’t one make the statement that soldering an smd fuse onto a board is in and of itself “Pfusch”? Seems to me it kind of defeats the purpose if the board will most likely be replaced if the fuse blows.

However, I had not previously been aware of the existence of such fuses, so it’s good to know. I fear if I’m going to continue with newer games I’m going to have to get into smds, reflow stations and the whole subject.

Well, in my personal opinion: Yes and no. From a technical standpoint, I think it's a nice solution to put a fuse on most of the boards that use 4V for the LEDs (RGB LED Boards). In the (rare!) case that something is wrong with the LED wiring, it trips only the fuse of the problematic board, not the whole LED power. This keeps the game mostly operational, which is important if you have it on route. Also LEDs don't need much current and may stay on for a longer period of time, so it would probably be hard to specify a fuse value for a central point on the power supply, as they do with all the coil voltages.
Now you might argue: "Well, OK, they could not do a central, glass fuse. Why the SMD fuses on all the boards and not glass?" Well, it's harder and therefor way more expensive to produce boards with oddball components like fuse holders with glass fuses because of how the process works. I assume they were sure enough that these fuses would not fail very often, so the engineering decision was made: SMD fuse. I don't think they were planning on selling more replacement boards by design, because it's not where you make money, your customers will be frustrated and it harms the image of the company.

It's not as complicated as it might seem, given the right tools and some "Fingerspitzengefühl". I like your attitude, many people in pinball just refuse to work with SMD technology alltogether and want the old days of THT back. Well it's over, folks. It was probably the same situation when they transitioned from EM games to SS games. Old techs would have been like "Nah, no way to repair those modern machines anymore!". I'm pretty sure we've had this discussion lots of times. The real problem I see with newer machines is not the SMD technology itself, but that some of the components are programmed chips, that can not just be replaced, even if you have the component. They need to be re-programmed. And there's where your soldering skills end and more servere problems start.
But I don't wanna sound too pessimistic here. Embrace SMD technology, get yourself a good soldering iron for cheap (For example the great TS-80), some thin solder, some flux, go practice on some trash boards and you will see that in SMD, two pin components like resistors, capacitors, diodes or fuses are actually easier to replace than THT, with less stress for the board itself.

Have a good weekend y'all!

I’ve just finally gotten ok at through hole soldering, but I can’t seem to desolder to save my life. I’ve been watching videos on SMD soldering, and it looks doable if you have the right equipment. One of these days I’m going to get myself a microscope for it. I’m worried that my hands aren’t steady enough, but I guess we’ll see. From the videos, it doesn’t seem as bad as everyone said. Reading pinside, you would think only a handful of people in the world have the capability to do it, but I don’t think that’s true in reality.

Ordered that, too. I think the plastics never won’t be that cheap again...

Ok new issue today. Have this issue with one of the leds. Any advice? Red lights up fine. Got her on Tuesday.

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Missing a color
Walk through all led test color by color you’ll be missing blue I think

Missing green and white is kinda pink. Ran through the test. Blue is working. What do I do?

White is not a color per se with rgb LEDs what the game does to try to make white is crank all three colors to max
So you’re missing green. How long have you had the game ?

5 days.

from nib ?
First owner ?
Pm me

My guess would be a bad solder joint on resistor R124 on the Flipper Area RGB Board or a failed R124. Had that before on one of my RGB LEDs. Second guess would be a bad solder joint on LED RGB110.

I have a similar issue with two of the Bob target insert LEDs. Both LED's have very weak RED (RED is still showing during the test, but much weaker than usual). As a consequence, during attract mode both BOB inserts light up LIGHT BLUE when all other LEDs in the game are WHITE.
It's not really reason for me to open up the game and find out what's going on, but I hope no other RGB LEDs are about to deteriorate...

Well this can’t go without being said, Steve has given me UNREAL support from JJP!! I mean UNREAL! He saw that post, we emailed back and forth and at almost 1AM EST, he had gone into my service ticket and gotten the right part added and getting it shipped out soon! The man is unreal and with that type of service, I’m super confident in JJP!

Thanks for your reply. So, I have submitted a ticket. Let's see what will happen!

Maybe harness pinched on something shorting out around QED guy

I also just got my NIB DI. Everything is great but the white noise from the speakers was bothering me. I opened a ticket and within a very short time it was answered and a filter is on its way to me. So far I am also very impressed with JJP support.

Thanks but in actuality it could very easily have gone without being said. I’m not into self aggrandizing or shilling - well I am but not right now - but we finally have 4 fantastic tech support people after a long (you have NO idea) stretch where it was just 2 or whatever. Well three awesome guys and Barry (hi boss!!). Kidding of course. You guys know Lloyd and me and some know Barry and many know Ken from the NJ factory who is back on the bridge where he belongs. We ride together at last. That’s us - so what - but Four weeks ago I got my first tour of Elk Grove the new factory and spent a week as I always do at the start of new game production. l Learn and work the line and take a game home to use for tech support - you all know the drill - so every time it’s been in Lakewood where I’m from but this time it was green leaf ave of course. All I can say is that the ownership group has more awards on its shelves than I have shelves. The money they invested and then holy crow the talent and sheer strength of the people in that building my word. I like being a very small cog but now I’m in a whole different machine. Poised for something that’s what JJP is, on the cusp of the brink of the leading edge of never ending run-on sentences. We are at least that any way.
So thanks I try hard. Lloyd and those around me are aces you all know that much. Going forward I am STOKED. Steve

I am so not handy. It was one of my hesitations I’m getting a pin. I read everyone on here just fixing stuff left and right and I’m a bit concerned that I will be out of my element.

Anyone else grab a spare set of plastics for $50 off the JJP website?

Yes, I did. Very good price and nice to have a back up.

Any recommended target decals for this game?

I grabbed a set too.

What determines when the upper playfield diverter drops down?

Do you have a picture of this? I’m using super shinys and think this is what’s happened to me. Have to hit the flippers several times to get the balls to drop in and register but it happens like once in 30 games.

Page C-20 in the manual is the ball trough. Item #10 is the four screws you can loosen to slip the coil/plunger/bracket up or down. Just a tiny bit. Not too far up or down.

You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com under Support under Downloads under Dialed In, if you need it.

LTG : )

I think it's down on every second mode? At least it's always down on the second mode as far as I remember. And then there's also the Monkey Wrench Multiball (one of the three BOB multiballs) where the diverter goes up and down all the time and you have to time your shot to get past it.

Also ball lock I believe.

It doesn’t have to do with the second mode. It is down when lock is lit. Lock is first lit after you complete the first mode. However, if you lock the ball, the diverter will go back up.

It is also down on certain modes like acid rain and as stated MW MB when it goes up and down.

Aah, that makes much more sense! Looks like I never payed full attention there!

Yeah, it’s a bit confusing because you just have to know. There’s nothing in the game that specifically tells you that.

This might be a stupid question but don’t magnets lose their magnetism when stored together for a period of time? I was thinking to have like 5 sets of balls and just rotate them out when I start having issues? Bad idea?

If you do want to go that route and don't feel like making(youtube) or buying a degaussing tool https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/magnetized-balls-problem-solved-cheaply or don't have a soldering iron to try. put this in the search in that one massive market place that you bid on or sell stuff. 25 1-1/16" Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs.
Don't overthink this too much. I've never had a pinball magnetization problem, ever. I replace or polish pinballs to get the nicks out but i've never replaced one because of a magnetizing situation causing issues. Maybe i'm too dumb to know what the issues are. This is a possibility and not ruling it out.

r/
Mike

DI has a ton of magnet play and magnetizes balls very quickly, even carbon steel ones.

I have a buddy looking for a HUO Dialed In somewhere near or in Cali. Cash deal. Please let me know if someone is interested in selling theirs. Thanks!

Thanks, is there a piece connecting the top of both signs together? Also, are the signs held down by a bolt+nut or just a screw?

Has anyone tried heating the balls in an oven to demagnetize them?

I had a recollection that heating would eliminate magnetism from engineering school 20 years ago...

Yes. I read a post in one of these threads, perhaps the “Where are you buying balls from?” thread where someone tried that and I think got decent results. I might try it one of these days, but balls are pretty cheap and I swap them out regularly anyway.

I should say that the first sign mine are getting magnetized tends to be irregular returns from the phone scoop. This is followed by the ball sometimes (though rarely) sticking to the trough when it drops in and not rolling down to trigger the opto.

A metal piece at the top. Snap rivets hold in place. Screw and bolt to the plastic.

LTG : )

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