Mostly yes, though many of us needed to “dial in” the magnet strength from the normal setting. Some of the modes just drop the ball down so the game needs to be level or it can go SDTM.

Yes. There are settings in the diagnostic/tests to control the amount high or low. We all have ours set at different settings for what works best for us. You may or may not have to adjust. Quick story. I had mine(theater magnet strength) set at around 105 and performed an upgrade at some point but apparently didn't play it for a while after. Life goes on and hadn't played since we were moving. One day I'm playing and notice the theater magnet is grabbing the ball but rather than tossing it forward it just kind of glitches and releases the ball so it falls to flippers. Its doing this every time and I'm thinking here we go. I look to make sure the mylar isn't causing the issue etc.. I let this go on for numerous times after until I finally decide to check the settings and sure enough the JJP software upgrade changed the strength to 150 from my 105. I lowered it back to where it was tossing it correctly to the upper flipper and now it opchecks 4.0(old navy guys will get that ref)
So..... Plan on some minor setting changes. Flipper and vuk coil strength and possibly Bob's trap door issues and maybe some cutting the mylar around the magnets in the near future after you get your game. Rest assured whatever it is, post it up here immediately and we'll get you going in the right direction.
r/
Mike

I got my DILE in today!! Definitely some differences from the JJP unboxing video. There weren’t all those signs on my play field, QED didn’t have a rubber band and the lightening bolt was in his hands already. There wasn’t styrofoam around the tilt bob, and one portion of the bob was in a baggie and had to be put on. These are not complaints as everything looks great and works great right out of the box. I literally haven’t adjusted anything and I can hit super skill shot all day long. My trap door seems fine, it’s not in the up position so I’m assuming it is. Flipper strength is great.

My only two things is, it didn’t come with a manual, they say they mail it. Do they? And there was a piece of styrofoam on the back of the playfield that seemed almost glued and left a residue back there. (Anyone rose had that?] game is playing perfectly and smooth as butter!! I need to update my software,

I believe only the CE got them. And long gone. Download it from jerseyjackpinball.com under Support - Downloads - Dialed In.

Yank it off.

LTG : )

The manuals didn't ship with the machines. You have to reach out to your distributor and ask for one. The manual is really nice, but I've never used it before. The PDF is more convenient.

JJP website says included with LE. Check with JJP.

LTG : )

Congrats! What was the build date on your game? What LE number did you get? Just curious as mine should be here in a few days and it would be fun to compare.

So I have been an owner for about 4 months now and for the first 60-90 days I researched a lot of items and here are my findings in no particular order.

Only change to factory settings for rules- Sim Card Memory- On or Off? It is personal preference but the game is a lot more fun if it is on.
Remove the mylar off of the magnets then clean with alcohol
If the ball gets hung up on the way up to the shooter lane this could be your issue- https://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
Dialed In Rules Sheet- http://tiltforums.com/t/dialed-in-rulesheet-wiki/2855
Cliffy's- Make sure flat/ In secure/Tight- Do I have Version 1 or 2? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/42#post-4131656
The Bob sign is hard to see what is lit up, how can you move it- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/44#post-4146218
Lots of issues with the trap door and options on adjusting it, I have not had any issues so I have left it alone.

I’m upstairs now but it’s like number 994 and was manufactured in 2018

Yeah says it wasn’t available as of shipping and will be mailed. I’ll ask. Quick question. Do you know where I could buy extra of these? Lost one while doing a mod today, it’s the led diffuser from the bob sign. Thanks
0D50B2F6-054E-4BCD-B24E-9105596FD6CD (resized).jpeg

Does everyone know that Crazy Bob is probably modeled after this guy from the 80s?

Got a call this morning that my game is going to be delivered tomorrow! I may not sleep tonight.

I'm 2 weeks away from getting mine, and I can't sleep already !

OK I have a DI with lights behind the back apron on the playfield that cannot be seen through the panel whats up with that?

Maybe for the city scape that was on the LE and CE ?

LTG : )

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You better get all the rest you can! You’ll need it because you’ll be staying up all night playing it

Can someone tell me where this goes? I had to order a light board from JJP and this was included. Something for one of the ramps? PXL_20201021_192024175.MP (resized).jpg

I can show you in about 20 min if you don’t get a reply by then

cover bracket lower left wireform

sorry banzai

It is the solution that keeps the ball from flying off the end of the ramp. I don't notice it at all, in fact I had forgotten about it entirely until I read your post.

Over left front of wireform.

LTG : )

DSC00365 (resized).JPG

Thanks everyone.

Thanks Lloyd

Mine is 994 and shipped with this on. Everything working great...cept I was able to open my back box ones and can’t anymore

You'll want to read this thread posted below for possible fixes. Seems there are a few things they may have caused this issue. Foam, actual lock bar on the lock too long, wood needing to be trimmed, and or loosening screws on the lock mech and shift and tighten back. One thing though, if you decide to remove the speaker panel which is the easiest way to see what's going on make sure you have another set of hands to help support and hold things. Don't force anything at any time and be patient.
Link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/di-cant-get-into-my-backbox

just joined the club with an SE!

Question, does this game just use a standard williams lockdown bar? Like this:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18240

More or less it looks very similar. Handle to the right when you open the coin door pulls to the left and lockdown bar lifts up.

another question, where can I get the edge plastics for the backglass?

Hi all! I’m experiencing problems with left side GI, it’s completely out except for left slings and return. Qed and theatre flashers are out as well. I traced back to board underneath playfield and I have a red led, not all green. I checked all connectors. Any other thoughts?
2641DC69-EC16-488B-A9B4-33713C137181 (resized).jpeg

Red indicates one of those tiny fuses is bad. Green good red bad.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. On I/O board correct?

No. The itty bitty thing to the left of the red LED.

LTG : )

May as well give you the happy news. Surface mount. No idea if it can be repaired or if you replace that board.

LTG : )

Lol, fantastic! Thx!

In theory should those just never blow?

No fuse should ever blow.

But something happens. And BOOM ! The fuse gives it's life to protect something.

I lost one early on, on Hobbit. The top part of a retract drop target plate was bent up a little high and shorted a LED board by the M A N drop targets. Took one of those itty bitty fuse thingies and changed the color of a couple LEDs.

LTG : )

I found a break in one of the QED guy flasher wires. It must have caught on the white plastic guide when QED was going side to side. My guess is this is when in shorted out

LE #818 arrived today. What a fun game! I was having a little trouble with the theater magnet but after I updated the software, it seems to be working great now. Can’t wait to learn all of the tricks and rules!

Would it be feasible to solder leads onto the ends of this small “fuse” and install a proper glass fuse in ts place?

Just have to find the part number and get out your soldering iron and magnifying glass.

Yeah, so just those two screws on the front to open that speaker part?

Yes. Careful of the wires for the speakers.

Some of the very early ones need the wood trimmed back a bit where the finger is pointing.

LTG : )

DIBackbox (resized).JPG

Thanks, mines 994 so not too early. I just need to get back there to put that audio filter in. Do you know where that hooks up?

I’ll send you an email if you pm me

There’s a throw delay setting in the theater test.

JJP has them

That would also be "Pfusch", as you say in german.

Sure, a very simple job for somebody with even a little SMD experience, but also not too difficult if you have at least any experience in soldering. It's close to the board edge and the part is relatively large. There's a bunch of tutorials on YT about that.
So YES, it can be repaired!

Hi guys a few more questions, really appreciate it

How do I test/know if my theater/ magnets are setup properly? I don’t know what the correct behavior is

What is the best pitch and flipper strength for the game?

What were the stock flipper rubbers? I’m guessing red 1/2 x 1 1/2?

Any other tips for a total noob?

Welcome Mr. Noob - If you are familiar with the WMS game The Shadow, the sanctum ball lock at the top center has a magnet that behaves the same way. The magnet catches the ball, pauses, briefly releases the ball and then engages the magnet again quickly so that the ball flings around and up to the right corner and around and down depending on how clean the fling was; therefore you want to go in to TESTS - DEVICE TESTS - THEATER and look at your setting. The number represents the "delay" if you will - how long is the pause prior to the fling. You can play with the numbers until you get yours just right. I think mine is at -90.
Now be aware - the magnet is NOT always supposed to fling the ball. This confuses people into believing that a perfectly functioning magnet is messed up. The best example is EMP STRIKE disaster mode. The magnet is designed to catch - hold - release and drop the ball back to the center flippers. NOTE: Later software updates - be SURE to run 1.73 if you can that is the latest - saw Ted and the guys change the timing of the moving QED man so that he can deflect a ball headed SDTM from one of these magnet drops. It does not ALWAYS do it but it works fairly well. Another example - say the drone mystery package collect is lit on the small theater monitor. Well at that time, depending on whatever other chaos the game is dealing with, the game wants to display the animation in the theater for whatever you collected. Thus the hold time is longer. And if multiball or something else is happening, the fling may get delayed OR - let's say you happen to also have the virtual inline drop targets running or the train bash where the animation shows the ball trying to bash through the subway doors (you get the idea), there may not ever be a fling or the other steel balls may crash through and knock the ball just off the magnet and then center drain warning. So this game, which is centered on chaos, is, believe it or not, often chaotic. The magnet behavior becomes intuitive after you play the game for awhile. The best example I can come up with is the center ramp bank door on Pat Lawlor's game Monopoly. The bank door basically has four little optos shining through a clear insert to the hood above the door mechanism. When the door partially opened from a fast ball strike or a mistimed hit where the door wanted to open or close but the pinball got there, the door would occasionally hang out in the nebula, not quite closed but certainly not open so you could make the ramp shot. I couldn't tell customers exactly when the door would correct itself or do a quick open close open to get itself into position but on my game at home it became intuitive like I mentioned exactly when the game would do whatever it would do. You just knew it as a player but could not have written it down.
So that's the center magnet. The animations are top notch too in the theater monitor. Granted I am somewhat biased.
The flipper rubbers are the red ones you mentioned.
Pitch is an individual feel thing to me but Mr. Lawlor recommends that the tip of the bubble just kiss the second line on the bubble level mounted on the game. Side to side lean is exceedingly important on DI (and most games) so get your torpedo level and get it right.
Hope that helps.