Well, that would be good too, but I’ll never see it. I would like to see more Bob multiballs though.

My ball gets stuck in the Lite Drone lane constantly. It didn't do this when I first got my game, but has been doing this for a couple weeks now. About 75% of the balls get stuck. I thought it might be the switch so I adjusted it down a little, but it is not the switch. I can lower the switch manually and the ball doesn't drop. It is just touching the post and the sling rubber. I tried stretching the sling rubber so it was thinner next to the lane, but this didn't seem to help. Any ideas?

Thanks

IMG_6744 (resized).JPG

Looks like the guide in the middle is all the way to the right. Maybe you bent it slightly while cleaning.

Is the rubber properly seated.

The post is pretty strong. No way I bent it. Yes the rubber is properly seated.

New rubber ring, or one size smaller. Stretch tighter on that side so the ball rolls through.

LTG : )

The Post is strong with this one.

Replacement rubber worked. Thanks Lloyd.

Fwiw my game did this when the upper sling post was loose. Actually the t not had fallen out when I was doing some other work and it was stuck tongue woofer!

Does anybody have any other pics of their sound board connections inside their cpu case? The only pics I can find are conflicting.

I was just messing with those while replacing the cpu — mine has the black on top connection , 99% sure. Will doublecheck

This is already a thing. I collected two sim cards in it yesterday.

Awesome, thank you!

UPDATE: Just found this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-assembly-line-set-up/page/20#post-3890013
Not sure if this will fix it because pressing down the on trap door doesn't make it stay flat... but I'll look again.

Here's my original text just as an FYI.

Following up on the Dialed In Bob trap door discussion, I went to replace mine today. Quick background: I had the "common" broken spring steel flap.

After the replacement, I've noticed something that I haven't seen discussed. When the trap door is down, the spring steel isn't flat with the playfield. It sticks up a little. I've looked for some aspect of my installation that may have caused this, but haven't found anything. It operates correctly (other than not being flat). Also, I looked at the exploded part diagram in the manual and didn't see anything there either.

The the only way for it to close further is for the solenoid arm to extend farther and it's already at max length.

I could try and bend the spring steel, but generally that's a bad idea. I don't want a little bump there even if bending the spring steel was effective.

I'm wondering if this wasn't a bigger cause for the spring steel breaking.

Anyone run into this have have thoughts?

Thanks!

I just bent my ramp flat downwards slightly. Knowing if I screwed it up badly I would need a replacement.

Considering the force of the ramp flap slamming into the wireform above it I would think that is way more likely to be the cause of almost all ramp flap breaks. Just my opinion based on observing my game.

Well, happy new owner, except I've got a trap door that keeps flapping. Whenever I hit a certain "mode" or something, the door just keeps raising, hitting the wireform, and making a racket. About once every second or so.

I'm running code 1.50, which I'll update tonight or tomorrow, but thinking I need to adjust to the 2 screws on the "catch". Figured I'd post here first before I made a bad situation worse. Maybe the 1.60 (1.73) code fixed this with timing?

I'd check the switch that lets the game know if the trap door is up or down first.

LTG : )

I'm guessing the switch that detects when the trap door is up isn't working. Either a wire broke off, the switch actuator broke off, or the rotating piece that pushes the trap door up and pushes the switch activator isn't hitting it right.

Here's a pic of mine. Does yours look this like?

IMG_3220 (resized).jpeg

Thanks. I decided to go the route you did and slightly bend the flap. That seems to work. I can now do a full orbit with the right flipper over the trap door!

I'm still tweaking the "prevent the spring steel flap from breaking again because the design appears to have it hit the wire ramp" and will post when I have something conclusive.

Maybe a small nut in the bottom of the coil limiting plunger travel so it can't go as far and whack the spring steel flap into the wire ramp ?

LTG : )

Thank you both. Just turned game off for the night, tomorrow I've got things to check!

Yes, that's exactly what I'm doing. I ended up putting 3 washers in there. That definitely makes it much better.

The reason I left it as 'I'm still tweaking" is because I'm trying to prove it's not hitting the wire ramp. I tried filming it at 240fps but it's still too fast (or I need more light than I can get there)! And, no matter what, it causes the playfield to bounce (when the solenoid activates) so the camera gets jumpy. It's also in a difficult place to reach (when the playfield is down)...

Replying to my own post.

I seem to have adjusted the trap door to no longer hit the wireform above it.

Black on top on mine

Thank you. I will go with that!

Here's what I have for my trap door. I think it looks ok, sans the rippled metal blade for the switch.

The unit will catch and release properly by hand while the playfield is up.

It does slam the wire habitrail violently though, and continually.

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I ran a switch test and trap door test as well. All reports OK. However, when prompted to hit the Black button to open the trap, nothing happened.

I also noticed during a coil test that hitting START fired no coils.

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I'm only quoting the manual because it's easier than writing this much detail myself

From manual section B1

Note: When the coin door is opened, the game’s safety interlock switch (the upper switch on item
4, pg C-2 of this manual) disables the 70-volt power running to the playfield. In order to activate 70-volt devices in any of the diagnostics tests, you must either close the coin door or pull the safety interlock switch’s actuator out (it will “click” and lock in place). When you close the coin door, the interlock switch actuator will be pushed back into its normal (unlocked) position. CAUTION: Most of the high power coils will be enabled, so slingshots, pop bumpers, VUKs and flippers (if activated by the flipper buttons) will kick a ball around as it rolls down the playfield - or fire when trigger switches are closed by any means. So please be careful with your fingers and tools on the playfield surface! If you lift the playfield for any reason, please be careful around high power
coil lugs, as they present a shock hazard!

and manual section B8

Note: When the coin door is opened, the game’s safety interlock switch (the upper switch on item 4b, pg C-2 of this manual) disables the 70-volt power running to the playfield. In order to activate 70-volt devices in the Coils Test, you must either close the coin door or pull the safety interlock switch’s actuator out (it will “click” and lock in place). When you close the coin door, the interlock switch actuator will be pushed back into its normal (unlocked) position.

Ahhhhh, that's why nothing fired. Thanks!

I'm thinking this is what needs adjusting as my door doesn't stay open.

0104201027b_HDR~2 (resized).jpg

If it is slamming into the wireform then closing you should adjust things to stop it from slamming into the wireform. There are multiple posts in this thread (use thread search function if needed) on how to do this.

I ended up using a black post sleeve and shaving a very small section of it off, then putting it near the coil stop for the coil that fires the trap door upwards. Like maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch or something; very small but it made a huge difference to the trap door travel. And unlike washers it wedged in place in the coil sleeve so the did not get stuck vertical when raising or lowering the playfield.

Just my 2 cents; I tried many things that actually made it worse like trying to adjust the "catch" for the mechanism. It took me hours to just keep it simple .

Yes, I've been scouring this thread, but it seems as though the issue has been only the slamming, or the door wouldn't close, or open all the way. I hadn't seen anyone with a door won't stay open issue.

I'll try your suggestion of adding something to stop the slamming. Maybe that will also allow the door to catch in the open position.

Thanks

Do you mind posting a pic?

RonnSS, that part you have circled is the flap you need to adjust to get it to catch and keep the door open. You may need to bent it a little, I would add a touch of grease to it also. There are two coils at work here. One to lift the trap door open, and one coil to release the latch to drop the trap door closed. There is a very fine line between the door NOT hitting the wireform above it and the door opening enough to let a ball drop in. I ended up changing out the plunger to limit the height the trap door can open (the same can be done with a nut or washers as some suggested). Even pulling and bending the entire mechanism will change the height of the door opening if I remember correctly. It takes a bit of fiddling with but once I got mine sorted out it has been fine ever since.

Thanks, that was my thought as my door won't stay up.
Half the fun is fine tuning, right?

I'll also attack the slamming when I take the coil off. Right now I just want to play it!

Maybe JJP adjusted this during production. My production #818 (blue number on bottom of play field) never broke this door metal flap, but thought I should preemptively add some washers. The #10 washers from Home Depot are too large so I used three #8 washers that fit snug. The door wouldn't stay up and was pretty low. So I reduced it to one washer, and I will leave it like that.

For those that had broken flaps, does anyone have a blue play field number higher than 818? I'm curious if I still need to be concerned about it. Or if JJP resolved this at some point.

What's a "blue playfield"?

Edit: Oh, you just mean the playfield number that is stamped in blue. Is there another number that's not in blue?

The production number stamped underneath the play field.

20200104_142835 (resized).jpg

Got it, thanks

I had your issue. I solved it. Search my posts.

RonSS

Yep, I played mine for a bit before I got to adjusting it.

Just picked up this wonderful game yesterday. I searched for an answer to this question in this thread and didn't see one so I assume the answer is "no," but I'm going to ask anyway: Is there a way to make the drones active again if you have software 1.60 or higher? All three of mine work great in test mode, but in gameplay, well, saying they sputter would be far too generous. The active drone maybe does one propeller turn. Blink and you'd miss it. There's really almost no difference right now between having them off or on, so if I make them more active and they burn out, so be it.

Also, the previous owner (or the one before that) didn't remove the plastic from the drone and theater magnets so they're kind of fused and gnarled on there now. Any harm in trying to scrape them off with, say, a razor blade/x-acto knife and a cotton swab of rubbing alcohol, or should I just leave 'em be at this point? Thanks.

The drones are nerfed now so not that active.

Can you post a picture of the gnarled Mylar? Most of us have cut the circles off around the metal part of the magnet with an x-acto. There’s likely a key post about it in this thread.

Yep, I read about people cutting off the mylar preventatively, just not sure if there's a certain point where I wouldn't be doing any benefit by messing with it.

IMG_20200106_202439.jpg

You would be cleaning it up so it would look a lot better. I would cut the circle out.

Trap Door Cont.

OK, so, I did see a post about a missing spring, but that wasn't the issue. I've also read up on the endless washer/nut posts. So, I've tried a few of those combos. I'm running 3 #8 flat washers right now. It seems to "fix" the issue (banging endlessly and not staying up). But here is my next question:

At what point is the trap door supposed to go up?

It seems to flap 3 times before a ball starts, but I'm assuming that is a ball find feature?
I'm very new to the rules etc. so I'm just spit balling at the moment. Sometimes it is up, sometimes down. Maybe it is truly fixed but I'm just not certain.

Thanks for your patience.

It should not flap up 3x at the start of the ball. It may need to open at the start of a ball if lock or a bob mode is lit. But mine does not flap multiple times now that it is working better.

Thanks for that BC. Any info is good info. I've got nothing to base things off of.

No problem. I would start by making sure it is reliably catching. Probably easiest to do this with the available trap door device test.

This may also show you if the switches are opening or closing as intended. Start there and good luck!

Thanks. Think I'm done for tonight. Tomorrow is a new day. I appreciate the help!