If that does not bother you, you're a lucky person. It would drive me nuts! So it seems that the red channel of the LEDs is not working or at least flaky. It looks like the same issue as on my small RBG board (also the red channel). Get the board out and check those resistors. With a tiny bit of SMD soldering experience and the right tools, you should be able to replace/rework them.

Did u mess with the cable in the back..? If its lose and not in the whole way it does this.. mine does. I need new cable bc after I push it in its good for few games then does it again.

Hoping for some help. I have left multiple messages with Jersey jack and not heard back. My dialed in was shutting off during play, usually after about 10 minutes. I would have to wait about half hour before before it would power up again. This went on for about 2 months without hearing back from them. A few days ago it shut down and now won’t power on at all. I know it’s not any power issue at my house. It is a LE with less than a hundred plays that I bought new less than a year ago. Any ideas while I wait to hear from JJP?

Kinda a funny story...DI was my first game. Had a buddy help me get it into the basement (He couldn't believe the $ I spent on it). Got it all set up plugged in and with the family, buddy and I flipped the switch and.....nothing. Everyone had different way to fix it...I was getting frustrated. By buddy laughed all the way home that I spent some serious coin on something I can't even get to turn on. Wife was asking if I could just get another one....the suggestions were annoying. A single black wire in the back on the cabinet was unplugged. I just went for the power supply wires and found it. Maybe in your case its simple a loose power supply wire that acted up with the shaker and finally broke the connection. But I know one thin black wire in back will cause it not to power up.... Good Luck!

I've tried wiggling it from the back of the phone and it seems pretty solid. Still does it. Next time I have it open I'll try the other end of the wire.

Can’t find any loose wires. Have looked everywhere. The back box lights flash for a second the fan turns on and then it shuts down. That happen in less than a second. Any ideas? Anybody that will actual call me back at JJP?

Wasn't there something where you have to jumper the reset switch on the Mainboard if it does that? Don't do that now! Just seem to recall having heard something. Might be a different jjp machine though.

Send a PM to LTG He should be able to help.

Push it in and hold it while the pin is on.. c if it fixes the issue momentarily.

If random LEDs are out of whack, it might be the cable. However if it's always the same LEDs with a consistent failure pattern (such as no red channel), it's most likely not the cable.

Are JJP flipper coils the same as WMS coils, except they don't have diodes? Are the lugs the same layout?

I'm thinking of replacing the lower right flipper coil on my DILE because it's weaker than I like - and I've tried everything else. Even at max strength in the settings it struggles to make a complete left orbit shot from a ball trap.

Yes, I have tried new link, sleeve, stop and it's properly shimmed. The EOS switch is also set proper. I'd almost be tempted to put a blue coil in there. Has anyone ever tried the blue (strong) coil in the game?

Rob

A couple thoughts. Bracket on front of coil and coil stop straight and down, not leaning in or out. And kind of in a straight line ?

Have you gone over wiring and connections at coil lugs, and other coils according to the chart on page C-136 in the manual. To be sure you don't have a poor connection ?

You could swap left and right flipper coils to see if it's the coil, or something else.

LTG : )

Anyone have occasional trouble with the left kickback? I haven't spent any time debugging it yet, but occasionally it seems to fire at the wrong time and the ball just goes down to the trough.

Could be the switch needs some tweaking, but thought I'd ask.

Do this :

Be sure it isn't binding in the playfield slot it goes up and down in, or sticking down.

LTG : )

Mine is.. I have one light that the blue channel acts up .. it goes away when I push in on the cable.

OK, all of the credit goes to @mageek for this one and for basically hand holding me through this process.

Here is how you create a power switch for the phone screen, so if it blanks on you, you can turn it off without turning the whole pin off.

First, remove the yellow (hot) wires from the phone power molex connectors. You can leave the black (ground) ones in. You can confirm which is hot with a multimeter. My multimeter read 24V going to the phone.

I didn't have a molex removal tool...but 2 sets of bent paper clips (I used 2 together to make it stronger) make an easy and cheap replacement tool.

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Then...I took a pair of wires (I used 20AWG door bell wire), and on one end, I attached a set of molex connectors (male and female). On the other end, I attached an extra playfield microswitch that I had laying around. You want to solder one wire to the common on the switch, and the other to the Normally closed (NC) blade.

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Next, insert your molex connectors into the yellow wire molex connectors from the phone power. Test to make sure your switch works.

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Once verified...then heat shrink your molex connectors.

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I went ahead and took my wire to the underside of my pin near the main power switch. I used foam tape and gorilla tape to attach the wire. It looks ugly, but I'm sure someone else could come up with a cleaner looking attachment method. I wanted it on the outside, so I could just trap up a ball, reach down and flip the phone power. @mageek had his switch on the inside of the coin door, which is probably safer (keeping all power inside the pin), but you would have to wait to launch a ball so you could take the time to open the door (killing flipper power) and activate the switch.

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This mod is completely reversible. When you want to remove it, just cut the heat shrink off and put the original molex connectors back into the original power connector.

Seems to work great so far. Only concern I have is if this little microswitch has no problem with 24V power in the long run.

I have it working better now. I put the old coil shaft back in because the new one was causing slightly more flipper travel. The extra vertical flipper travel (small as it is) made far left shots more difficult. That and just getting the right amount of droop in the flipper because it does need a little like most recent stern games do.

Rob

Well, since the RJ45-Connector for that cable is soldered directly to the circuit board that also contains the LEDs, you are also pushing on the circuit board and probably temporarily fixing a faulty solder point on that LED or its resistor that way. I would guess that your faulty LED is quite likely located around the lower right corner of the phone?

Some technical background on this: The cable carries a serial data stream for all the phone LEDs. This I2C signal looks like this: http://micsig.eu/media/wysiwyg/Micsig_handheld_oscilloscope_I2C_graphic_interfaces.jpg . It carries the data for the LEDs encoded in 1s and 0s. Each time the LEDs are updated (which can probably happen around 50 (guesstimated) times per second), a stream of around 600 bits is sent. That would be 30000 bits a second. For a single color channel of a single LED to be consistently broken, an error has to occur precisely for the same 8 bits each data frame. Timing-wise, we're talking microseconds here. I consider that highly unlikely, but of course not impossible.

So yes, wiggling the cable might fix the problem for a while, but the reason the problem occurs is imho neither the cable nor the connector.

FWIW here are the delayed images of how I ended up getting my phone solid (after fixing a poorly inserted pin in the power connector).

I found the one of the large cables was touching the pop bumper area plastics, and getting heavy vibration transmission due to this.

I also built a shim out of some home depot snap shims to minimize the "shaking" vibration on the phone mount, but I think that was a lot less important. I used gorilla tape (wrapped around the shim) to give it a bit more grip.

So far so good over a month later!

As always, try at your own risk. shimming the phone too much could strain the plastic or even the metal, and cinching the cords together too much is probably not great either.

For me, just moving the cords away from touching the plastic was enough; phone received basically no vibration from the pops now (no more than any other coil firing just using my "finger on the phone" to gauge things.

phone 2 (resized).jpg

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nice work, thank you for documenting this!

I haven't had any phone issues since I replaced my old one several months ago.

I just checked, and the cord from the phone isn't near the pop... I mean it is, but it's not touching it or anything like that.

So perhaps you are right...

What I really wonder is where to get parts for that game in future - the online-store at jjp does not have much (but for now can certainly be ordered at jjp) but I do not know any store that has jjp parts. This could be a big problem when the machines are as old as B/W machines are at the moment. Where to get the specific parts like pcb boards or similar if jjp is not there anymore (god preserves!)? I only have a MSI mainboard in stock just in case. That’s a very big advantage of B/W machines - you can get almost everything today and the boards are easy to repair because they are not smd...

Has anyone else run into problems with the one way gate behind the theater not dropping back down? Mine gets hung up on the top side and even after a gentle correction it returns to the stuck position. It almost seems like the bottom bracket above the skill shot kicker may be bent/out of place and shifting the gate too close to the upper wall.

Any recommendation on fixing this before I bend something too far and break it?

thanks,
todd

one-way-gate (resized).jpg

Inkedone-way-gate_LI (resized).jpg

The point you circled. Bend the lane guide away from the gate at that point. Needle nose pliers straight down right there, turn the pliers to the right.

Or you could also bend both sides of the gate together and make the gate smaller.

I bent the lane guide on mine. Gates take enough of a beating without adding to it.

LTG : )

Same here. As a result, ball sometimes returns through quantum theatre in the wrong direction. Will try the needle nose pliers trick recommended by LTG.

So I just replaced my bob's trapdoor, the flap broke off awhile back.. Is there anytips or adjustments to make this not break off again?

Looks like the stress comes from the trap door opening and the tip of the flap hitting the wireform above when the coil makes it full stroke before resting on the latch.

I could be wrong.. anytips?

Try sending Steve or Frank an email. They were both great in helping me with a bunch of problems! [email protected],[email protected]
I also have Steves phone number,(732) 364-9900 ext. 1217 . I don't know what I would have done without the help of Frank and Steve.

That's exactly what's causing them to break! I want through a bunch of ramps,until I did this fix. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/135#post-4757873
I had to grind down the nuts height a little,because a whole nut was too much.

I have a 3 prong approach to fixing trapdoor issues. You can start here ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/135#post-4758833

then https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/138#post-4773987
then https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/138#post-4775986

Frank is no longer with JJP.

LTG : )

WHAT????when did I miss this

I wish him all the best wherever he's working now! He was always very helpful and a nice person on top of that.

Wifey got me the Station 3 mod. It lights up that left side so bright that it makes it feel like a whole new game. Love it!

IMG_3195 (resized).JPG

IMG_3198 (resized).JPG

I have a request for help; I broke one of the rules and disconnected two things before taking a picture; the are the two cabinet audio leads. Looking in the manual for the audio board, it looks like one of these should be empty (it is marked as a spare). I know that is not the case in my game, there is a red and black cable.

Looking in the thread here and online, I see two different ways to connect the cables, one the red is on top, the other the black seems to be on top.

Definitely confusing, I am hoping someone knows what is up!

The arrows on my middle pic are just there from a prior post.

Thank you in advance for any help here!

dialed in pinball inside cpu (resized).jpgdialed in pinball inside cpu 2 (resized).jpegjjp audio page (resized).PNG

Probably doesn't matter.

See what color is going to your subwoofer and stick that in J8, then the other cable in J9.

LTG : )

I figure it may just be the phase, and probably if it sounds like crap just reverse them?

Since posting I decided to see if the backbox audio pc cables had continuity to the two connectors for the speaker; they both had continuity (red backbox pc cable to red subwoofer, black backbox pc audio cable to the black subwoofer cable).

Thank you Lloyd, not sure if you or anybody else have any ideas? Happy New Year's regardless!

I can NOT get Dialed in to install to 1.60 (planning, of course, to update to 1.73, but you have to go to 1.6 first). I have used two different USB sticks, and follow the instructions on their website to a T. I still get the game to look like it is updating from 1.57 to 1.6.... but when it boots: 1.57 is all it does. What the HELL am I doing wrong?

How big are your usb sticks? I think it is preferred to only use 8 or 16 gb.

You're following the full game install instructions and using UNETBOOTIN to copy the ISO to your 8GB-32GB flash drive? The game is off when you insert the flash drive with the ISO on it (and nothing else)?

Using FAT32 format? Might be worthwhile to do a full format of the drive prior to copying the ISO onto it.

You trying to do a Delta update when you should be doing a Full Install ?

Different ways to load USB stick ( 8GB to 16GB ) different ways to put in game.

If you are trying to put a Full Install in, don't follow the Delta way of putting it in.

LTG : )

Just a quick note...

There is a thread called "best pinball of the decade 2010-2019". There are many great choices, including Dialed In! If you are interested, head over there and vote for your best pin of the decade. Maybe it's dialed in, maybe it's something else. Just wanted to make sure the Dialed In club was aware.

Link is here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-pinball-of-the-decade-2010-2019

we all know (here) its DI...

i mean, really !
mine is gone after +/- 1 year (simply because i cant keep pins here and have to make a turn around), but it doesnt change what i think about it

Oh I am aware. I'm doing it per the website instructions. It looks like it is taking it, and all is, then doesn't. Loads back up as 1.57. Yes, this is before trying to go to step 2 and update to 1.7x.

I guess my problem is the size. It is 64gb. I have a program that forces it to be formatted via fat32, but that doesn't work. Why does it have to be only a small size drive? I'm guessing that's my issue.

Likely your issue. Get an 8gb Sandisk just for pinball only and you shouldn't have any issues.

I wonder why there is still no full update from below 1.6 to 1.73. Would be much easier. Maybe at least for 1.8?

Looks like JJP did a pretty good job with release 1.73. Complaints on this forum have dried up - wonder what they are working on right now.
What items are still on our wish list for the next release?

Do we know if there will be another release?

All I want is to be able to change the BOB target lights with the flipper buttons, but it seems that may not be in the cards.

from Ted/Joe last talks with me, what was next was making "showdown" (beating it) more spectacular...