Yes I have

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/152#post-4945053

Thanks! Glad you found it interesting. There isn't too much about Dialed In, but lots of stuff on older pins like Twilight Zone (and older vids like Star Wars and Tempest).

Definitely get the upgrade done!

Thanks for pointing that out. I learned a new word form your post: splayed. Which is exactly the word I should have used.

... Altan

The magnet is not pulling the ball through on the theater on my game lately. It will hold the ball fine than drop it down instead of throwing around. I'm sure it's a delay setting although I am not sure if I should be adding delay or taking delay away. Any help would be appreciated.

Getting better.. 2.5M limit broken!

Raise it to -90--100.. if that dont work go a little more. Mine is a -110 but i have my di at 7.0 slope.

I had the same issue so I put it at -100 and the problem went away.

I updated the code and could not find this magnet setting. Where is it? I swear I must be blind. I thought I had triple checked all the menus.

Hopefully this helps. Here. Is a bit of a report after having a "new to me" DI for a little over a week.

I replaced the CPU fan. Success!

I replaced the CPU battery as it was getting towards the 3 year mark. That was pretty hard due to the graphics card for the phone AND having to do it with the machine on.

Has anyone tried booting the game without the phone graphics card installed? Assuming the game doesn't freak out that would have been much easier for me.

My phone had four!!! Loose screws inside. All four of the screws that held the screen on internally were rattling around inside. Has this been reported before?

On the plus side I had an opportunity to clean off some of the factory dust that seems pretty common in between the phone screen and the external plastic cover.

Same with my phone. I then had an accident with the LCD ribbon and had to get a new phone display. The bottom middle LED on the light board got knocked off during reassembly.

Rob

Thank you for the feedback. I am damned if I do and damned if I don't. I can yank the phone out and apply something like hot glue to the screws to keep them in place. Seems risky no matter what. I will probably leave as is for now and see if the phone turns into a maracca again after several hundred plays.

I reported it years ago when i got my pin delivered . I believe i added lock washers with the little teeth. Its been fine ever since.

What is the trick to disconnecting the ball trough transmitter board? Thanks!!

If you mean remove the board. Easiest is remove the ball trough so you can get at that side.

LTG : )

Tests - Devices - Theater Magnet

Thank you! I will have a look. I think my magnet self corrected with software after I removed the mylar from the magnet core. But good to know this adjustment is still there.

Another thing that was not obvious to me ( and I could still be wrong) is the stacking of the theater modes like the spider spinner and kilowatt drops may cause you to think the magnet could be doing better when it is really doing something different than you expect?

i had remove the magnet working in these cases, and its way better/fun/flow with pin set up like this...

New Dialed In LTD EDT just arrived - bumpers pop without a ball hitting them
Can anyone tell me how to fix this please ?

How often? Constantly or just randomly?

If the latter, it could just be that the switches are gapped too close. Go into switch test mode and bang around the playfield with your fist to see if the vibration triggers those bumper switches. If not, please provide more details about when it happens in the game. What else is going on?

I had the same thing on mine. Just adjust the contacts.

Do you mean the slingshots, near the flippers ? Turn the game off, remove the plastic over the kicker and two leaf blade switches. Look down on the leaf blade switches. The long front one should be just touching the rubber ring, not pushing it. The shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, but far enough away so vibration, or going off by itself, doesn't happen. A little tweaking and you'll be fine.

If you mean the pop bumpers. Below the playfield is a leaf blade switch. A plastic rod comes down from the pop bumper skirt and rests in a plastic spoon on the top, longer leaf blade switch. The plastic rod should just be resting on the plastic spoon, not pushing it, and the plastic spoon shouldn't be pushing the plastic rod. The shorter lower rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit on the pop bumper skirt triggers it, but vibration doesn't. A little adjusting and you'll be fine.

Thank you,
LTG : )

OK, I'm adding an RGB undercab lighting strip to my AFMr...and I have extra length of the LED strip so might as well add it to DI as well.

I already have the mezelmods pop bumper building, which connects to the RGBs of the popbumpers. I'll connect the under cabinet lighting to another pop bumper...or some other GI RGB light.

I'm doing a Digikey order tomorrow for some parts...but I can't find/identify the parts that JJP (and mezel) uses for their 4 pin rgb cables? It looks like this ->

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Can anybody help me identify these connector housings?

I don't see it as a gimmick at all. It's really fun to play the game from a phone as it changes gameplay in interesting ways. I'd welcome some improvement on the app.

I would give Kristin at mezel a call. She's very friendly and helpful.

Just got a di over the weekend. Does anyone have a relatively inexpensive way to brighten up the playfield with some spotlights or something? I've done it on older games using matrix kits, but jjp obviously doesn't have the normal gi lights to tap into. Appreciate the help

Really? Dile is super bright imo and the best lit jjp pin by far and brighter than many sterns. Throw a few spotlights on the slings and call it a day

I have jjp pirates and it's lit way better. Unless I'm missing something the di is extremely dark. I had guests over for the weekend and they also asked why it was so dark. I intend on putting a few spotlights on but I am not familiar with how to hook them up for a jjp machine as I said in my post. Is there some sort of spotlight kit for jjp machines?

I had my left GI circuit not working for a while. It took me a while to notice because of so many other lights.

You didn't say new or used. I'm wondering if a previous owner had turned down the lighting in the settings. My DI is nice and bright

Check your GI brightness settings. It may be turned down.

It's used, the only led setting I see is for insert brightness. I turned it to high, but it's still dark specifically in the middle of the playfield. Pirates has spotlights to light the middle and it makes a big difference. That's what I'm trying to achieve.

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I dunno man, I have my DI in my black light room that gets zero natural light and I've never thought the game was to dark.?

Don't look at Woz or your eyes might bleed.

The "correct brightness" of a pin is very subjective. Sounds like you are a stadium lighting guy.

Fair enough, I just figured a spotlight or two would make the art pop in the middle of the playfield like it does in pirates. If there's an easy way to add spotlights to a jjp machine, I'd appreciate any input.

Yeah, no go. Kristin replied back and was treating the identification of the connector as a trade secret basically. Maybe I'll take a few better pics and ask on a different thread what those motherboard connectors are called....

Ill assume 12V is the same at coin door, as WOZ, and if you add 2 COB strips like these on the apron, above ball travel height, you will be brighter than you want! (I have added a dial to control brightness)
2 strips are under $3.

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I always restore my games to default factory settings every time I bring a game home. You never know what kind of wonky settings the previous owners used. I never thought my DI was too dark either. I have an LE with the ramp lights though. I would restore factory settings first.

Beyond that, I would make sure there are no lights that are out, and if they are, I would check connectors under the pf.

I always reset factory settings as well. No lights are out, you can see my comparison picture between pirates and di, there's basically no lighting in the middle of the playfield. That's why I was hoping to add spotlights to the slings or something. It's not like it's unplayable, just wanted to make the art pop. I think it's too pretty to keep it dark.

Since I have my DI right next to my POTC as well I thought I would take a couple pics for you to compare. Now that I'm looking closer I have to agree with you. The middle of the playfield on DI is definitely darker than Pirates. I've attached two pictures, one is attract mode with the inserts lit and the other is during play.

Nick

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I know that people wont agree with me and hate PinStadium, but of all my JJP pins I only put them on DI as I thought that center area was a little dark also. The PinStadiums make that art pop and I like the UV flash going off when you hit the QED dude. DI doesn't have RGB GI lights, so having the brighter lights (that you can dim to your own liking) didn't take away from the light show. When the GI turns off, so do the pinstadium lights. I wouldn't want them on my other JJP titles though, so don't beat me up for that.

Even though I suggested that, look into the sling spots that lermods has for Wonka and WOZ. I might get a set of those for Wonka as that center area is a little dark at times and his set brightens and dims with the GI on that pin. If that looks promising, contact him to see if he can come up with a cover for on top of those spots that is DI theme appropriate.

Thanks . We can definitely do a set for DI, I just hadn’t considered it because I never felt it was dark. If anyone wants a set, let me know and I’ll make them for you. $30 shipped.

Here as a link to our product for woz...woz requires a split connection so it’s slightly more.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwizard-of-oz-pinball-spotlight-covers

FYI ... (off topic) you need to add the install instructions for those to the link on that page, or change the link. The instructions for those aren't there.

I had pinstadium on my mmr because it came with it from a trade. They were pretty awesome, but I just can't see paying that much money for them. If they were more reasonably priced I'd be all for them. I'll try the lighting from lermods and see how that is. Or I'll rig up two spotlights tapping into the coin door inserts. Thanks for the input.

OK...just in the off chance that someone new is looking at this...here are some better pictures of the connectors I'm looking for. I just need the family name for them or anything about them so I can find them online. They are used on the board for the pop bumper flashers.

Pop bumper board...which powers 2 pop bumpers. The 3rd pop bumper is powered by a different board and connector.
20191119_140815 (resized).jpg

Male 4pin connector ->
20191119_141138 (resized).jpg

20191119_141234 (resized).jpg

Female 4pin connector ->
20191119_141259 (resized).jpg

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Really...these look just like 4 pin versions of the 2 pin connectors used nearly everywhere else for the GI LED boards ->
20191119_141014 (resized).jpg

My goal with this? I was going to create a wiring harness to connect a 12V RGB LED strip to be used as undercabinet lighting.

Another big question I have...is that using a multimeter on these 4 pins...each R G B pin measures at 3.87V. Am I correct that a 12V led strip would work with this connection? As in...if you add up each pin, its close to 12V (11.61V), or should each individual pin measure at 12V?

I really dig that game more and more, I end up only playing Dialed In at my location that has 50+ pinballs.

The one thing I still don’t get is the “upper” playfield, the transparent piece on top of the pop bumbers. There’s a hole in the middle but I dont see any opto or through and going in it doesnt seem to do anything.

It's just a nudge game. If the diverter is down and you can get the ball to go through the hole, the pops are worth the same amount as super pops I believe.

I think acid rain mode requires left ramp to pops for 5 hits? Bumping required.

You don't have to hit the left ramp though...a direct shot into the pops works too for acid rain's initial phase, then its left ramps to complete.

Correct.

I know I have said this before but it was a while back. The upper playfield is important when you are going for multiball the second time and you have to lock them in the train station. When the diverter is down, a fast shot up the left ramp will usually have the ball fall out the back of the playfield and into the skill shot. It will then feed the upper right flipper for a shot on the train station lock. Very clever and extremely useful.