Thanks for sharing this. I've never checked my DI for this issue and I'll do it this weekend!

Sending pm!

Theres a ton of info on processors that will work with this MB. I went with the upper end in terms of performance in terms of passmark scores: the i5-4590. Refer to post #9212 this thread for more info on passmark scores:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/185#post-5230320

Big time bummer. I've been considering selling the game as the BOB targets are so frustrating. If I cannot skillfully light a kickback that is drain-happy, the game becomes a bummer. I can't see that coding being that difficult if CapCom could do it in the 90s...

let's admit its not a coding problem of course but simply the way they wanted the game to play

I play mine with the glass off. I never have problems with drains

Dave I picked up a new CPU for DI and plan to fit it soon as I am finding on this and Pirates that the bonus round-up takes a while I think (int not just a matter of pressing flipper buttons) it may be CPU usage I will know once I fit the new CPU. Will report back.

The interesting question is if this game makes actually use of the additional cores/threads an i5 would give you over an i3 or if the higher clocked i3 is actually better despite being overall weaker and cheaper.

Sorry, didn't see that.
Thank you for verifying that, appreciate it - plus that saves people from buying the more expensive CPU when it would actually perform worse than the cheaper one.

I'm not getting any slowdown - wierd.

If that was a response to me, I see it as a coding issue, or worse - a design issue. The lower target can be hit, but the shot is brutally difficult. I can't see how they would want it to play that way. The design issue can be fixed with code though...

Some of the shot difficulty is because the flippers are substantially weaker when shooting from the tip of the flipper. It's like they just don't have much 'torque'.

Rob

Could someone do me a quick favor? This doesn't look right to me...its the skill shot kickout switch wire ->

Today the wire got bent back (or at least....over time) and eventually when the ball was resting ready to be kicked out, the wire actually got in front of the ball, trapping it there (and getting further bent up because it got pushed when the ball attempted to be kicked).

I bent it back down fine...but maybe the wire end was broken off at some point? Does everyone's wire just end like this?

Its odd because most switch wires go back down ...like..the shooter lane switch ->

20191102_200207 (resized).jpg

Yours broke off.

LTG : )

Thankfully...at least its still works...but if I do another pinball order I guess I'll replace it. The thing is...the part number in the manual is 18-003016-00...but that doesn't pull up on any of the sites...

Look for a similar one if you don't order it from JJP. There is usually only two types. Shooter lane switch, and lane switch.

LTG : )

Nope the switch arm is designed like this. All the ones I've played its like this anyhow... also my own machine is like this.

The switch wire needs to be like that because otherwise it would be hit by the kicker. Obvious but fun fact: It's the same on the TZ rocket kicker.

It is an odd looking switch. I thought mine was broken as the ball kept sticking there.Turned out the switch was fine but the ball was magnetised.

Hi All
I have just bought a topper from Tilt Toppers for my DI. Could some one please advise me on where to connect it.

Thankyou in advance.

Not trying to be snarky, but are there directions on their site or in the box?

I am curious to see what you bought installed, but just not sure why they would not have told you how to plug it in and mount it?

My thoughts exactly but nothing. bought from Tilt Topper. Iv been on there website but the link for installation is under construction.

Does anyone else feel like the flippers in this game are weak? I’ve got mine turned up and sometimes this game just feels slow. Then I play one of my sterns and it is night and day different. Am I crazy here???

Everything in this game feels a bit slow.

Crank them up more. Increase the pitch of the playfield. The game can be quite fast.

They are increased. My pitch is at 7.0. Any lower would help the flipper strength, but would play floaty.

For me, no. They feel great with default settings.

To each their own. Dialed In! is by far my favorite pin ever and I'd never say it feels a bit slow.

My pin is on stock settings with 7.0 pitch and its brutal and fast. I can make all shots super easy

The flippers feel different from Stern to JJP. It's not just you. You just get used to it after a while. My flippers are up just a couple notches from stock settings.

Nope, not crazy. The flippers are definitely not strong like on a Stern game, but they should be adequate to make the shots on the game. There are 2 things that really affect how the flippers act on this game (aside from mechanical issues):

- EOS switch gap so it closes just as the flipper reaches full stroke.
- Flipper angle set correctly.

On my game, from a ball trap on the right flipper, that flipper could not make a full left orbit shot. It could barely make the left ramp shot. I added a little more droop to the flippers so it compared equally to pictures I saw of other DI games. I adjusted the EOS switches to close later and it was a lot better after that. Before, it would have been a miserable playing experience not being able to reliably make orbit or ramp shots.

The only problem with the flipper angle is that the left inlane theater hurry up is harder to make.

I turned down the left flipper strength (from stock) otherwise the ball hits something in the back of the right orbit and stops.

Right flipper is still mushy trying to shoot BOB and left orbit. Ramp shot is good now. The power setting is stock.

Rob

Sounds like if the ball has too much speed going up the right orbit...you are hitting the 'left orbit" exit wall, and its getting returned. I fixed it by adding electrical tape to the ramp...you can read here (and a few posts behind that I guess) ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656

+1 about flippers...

its not playing the same way as latest STERN pins
its for sure less "powerfull", i would say more "smooth" (hard for me to say it in english when its not my native language)

but anyway, dont worry, until you can play normally with the DI, as climbing ramps and making combos everywhere

Ok thanks. I’m. It crazy. Yes I can make all the shots, it’s just very different from my Sterns. I’ve owned all of JJP’s pins and the flippers always feel a bit less powerful. Dialed in maybe a little more.

Check that the flippers are gapped correctly and make sure nothing is binding. JJP doesn't always do a great job on small build adjustments. The flippers are plenty strong when set up correctly, even compared to Sterns. Mine are set below stock power levels. I did find I have needed to adjust the mechanicals on my JJP flippers and I have also found that all of my JJP games play better and faster with more play. My WOZ was on location for about 6 months and it played much much better once I got it home again.

Modern Stern flippers to me are harder hitting than on DI. They just have more power behind them I think.

But whatever ... my DI is completely stock and easily makes ALL the shots needed. It definitely is a "smoother" flip than Stern. I think its just a personal preference difference.

And - yeah - DI is simply AMAZING. What a show!

Hi,

Could someone who bought this game new please confirm for me if the attached card came from the factory with each game, or not? It may be a custom card made by the owner or by another party, but I don't know.

Thanks in advance!

Jay
IPDB

Dialed In Free Play Price Card (resized).jpg

Came with it.

LTG : )

You can unscrew that bracket (card holder) if you just want the art underneath it to show. I like it that way better for home … everyone knows it's "free play".

Anyone have trouble with the molex connector that goes to the trough boards?

Today I ran into a situation where the ball wasn't placed into the shooter lane. I dug into this closer and saw that all the the trough optos were activating/deactivating a lot. With a little wire wiggling, it seems to be related to the 2-wire molex that eventually splits into both sides of the trough board.

The JJP switch history diag is really useful here... The screen just keep adding more and more of these 5 or so optos.

Interestingly, this molex doesn't have a "clip" to hold it tight together. None the less, even when held tightly together, a little wiggling causes switches to activate/deactivate.

It's not a big deal if I need to rebuild this connect, but I'm a little surprised given I haven't had to rebuild connectors like this on 1990s WMS games!

Ended up fixing this today. The molex pins themselves were not as tight as they should be. Almost seems like a manufacturing defect on behalf of the molex vendor. I was able to reduce the diameter of the female side using a small pair of needle nose pliers.

I added info about this to my Dialed In page on my website (https://www.aaarpinball.com/DialedIn/DI.htm), but for simplicity I've uploaded the before and after pics here.

IMG_3080 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3081 (resized).jpeg

Very cool; thank you for sharing! I checked your website out, some neat stuff like realigning the "attack lights" PCB...

I need to get off my butt and upgrade to the new software myself this weekend

Help requested:

My DILE powder coat has a few scratches. I could live with it, but hoping someone has a recipe for color matching ?

Has anybody inquired to JJP to see if they sell touch up bottles for this (I read if you had the powder and mix it with clear nail polish it may match better and easier than other methods...).

Found a potential bug, or overlooked item. When you play DI with the phone app, you can't switch the disaster modes on the phone in the game. I guess they take an actual push of a physical flipper button. I know this is probably low on the list of the developers' priorities, but I figured I would mention it.

My phone app has always worked well with the game on all version of the code. I have an iPhone. I never use it, but it is kind of a cool feature to try every once and a while.

QUESTION. On the left outlane, is there a extra post that came with DI or do I have to remove the existing post and move it up?

Move it up.

LTG : )

Weird how my nut driver does not fit. Got to be carful not to scratch playfield.

Deep well socket.

LTG : )

I'll say it. This is not a bug. Playing on your mobile device is a gimmick that turns your real pinball machine into a virtual pinball machine.
Cool to try for sure and kudos for being the first game with this type of remote play but please do not spend any development cycles making enhancements to this functionality.

I know we all want our machines to work 100% but if my/your dongle doesn't work it just doesn't matter or impact game play a bit. To me, this remote not working is as much of an issue as getting a scratch on the bottom of a leg leveler.