I use the same stick to update all my games, just keep reformatting it. I am using an old Dell computer from 2003 and it works every time. Super easy takes a couple minutes.
I use the same stick to update all my games, just keep reformatting it. I am using an old Dell computer from 2003 and it works every time. Super easy takes a couple minutes.
I usually use PNY 16gb but was out. I used these, they were on sale for $18.99;
https://www.staples.com/staples-16-gb-usb-2-0-flash-drive-4-pack/product_2832748
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:My USB Bluetooth dongle is not being detected.. I just updated to 1.73 and that went fine so I know the USB extension cable is fine.
Did you fully plug in the tiny usb stick that came with the game? Maybe reseat?
Here's the one that I use (it was re-purposed from something else). It's super small, but if you put a keychain on it, it works well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLEN5FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
I also added an additional 4gigs of ram that a good friend gave me from his DI.
Just so you know....when changing RAM/CPU, you don't have to connect a keyboard to the system. First time you boot up it says push F2 to accept the default settings and continue, but if you just turn the pin off and back on, it boots up like normal.
Quoted from Gogdog:I also added an additional 4gigs of ram that a good friend gave me from his DI.
Just so you know....when changing RAM/CPU, you don't have to connect a keyboard to the system. First time you boot up it says push F2 to accept the default settings and continue, but if you just turn the pin off and back on, it boots up like normal.
What are the specs on the RAM? There is some sitting in my drawer, I wonder if it will work. I have 2 sticks 4GB DDR4 2400mhz.
Quoted from Shredso:What are the specs on the RAM? There is some sitting in my drawer, I wonder if it will work. I have 2 sticks 4GB DDR4 2400mhz.
The ram that came with my 2018 DI is 4gig 1333 Mhz ddr3, slimline.
As long as you add ram in either a single stick or in pairs that are identical, you should be fine. That ram you have there is certainly faster than the stock ram.
Quoted from altan:Why add ram? 1.73 seems great on stock hardware.
You are right...there is probably little to no need to add ram. CPU? a very slight ~maybe now that 1.73 is here.
Quoted from altan:Why add ram? 1.73 seems great on stock hardware.
Because it's laying around uninstalled and I like to break things?
Quoted from Shredso:Because it's laying around uninstalled and I like to break things?
Makes sense to me. Best explanation
1.73 is fantastic! Love Mandys slightly faster/more urgent cadence in some scenarios (shoot the theater) and the little light show improvements. What is the big kick sneak in rule added in 1.71?
Quoted from holminone:1.73 is fantastic! Love Mandys slightly faster/more urgent cadence in some scenarios (shoot the theater) and the little light show improvements. What is the big kick sneak in rule added in 1.71?
Where are you all finding the code update changelogs? I can't find them at the JJP site.
Quoted from Gogdog:Where are you all finding the code update changelogs? I can't find them at the JJP site.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/di/di_changelog.txt
A little mixed in with all the other files
Left ramp shots on my DI-LE no longer loop all the way around. The culprit is the switch just prior to the Betty diverter. The blade on the switch hangs low, low enough such that when the ball contacts it the tip of the blade hangs up on the bottom rail of the ramp, and the ball bounces off the switch blade and back onto the playfield.
Manipulating the switch by hand shows that there is quite a bit of slop in the blade action. Keeping in mind that the switch is mounted horizontally, there is quite a bit of up / down play in the switch. Is that normal? The switch blade is properly fitted onto the switch body on the top (can see it), and seems like it is properly fitted onto the bottom of the switch body too, but I haven't disassembled yet to get access to the switch mounting or the bottom of the switch.
Has anyone else had this problem? Did you end up needing to add a shim between the switch and it's ramp mounting tab to cause the switch blade to sit a bit higher?
20191003_181551 (resized).jpgQuoted from RoyF:Left ramp shots on my DI-LE no longer loop all the way around. The culprit is the switch just prior to the Betty diverter. The blade on the switch hangs low, low enough such that when the ball contacts it the tip of the blade hangs up on the bottom rail of the ramp, and the ball bounces off the switch blade and back onto the playfield.
Manipulating the switch by hand shows that there is quite a bit of slop in the blade action. Keeping in mind that the switch is mounted horizontally, there is quite a bit of up / down play in the switch. Is that normal? The switch blade is properly fitted onto the switch body on the top (can see it), and seems like it is properly fitted onto the bottom of the switch body too, but I haven't disassembled yet to get access to the switch mounting or the bottom of the switch.
Has anyone else had this problem? Did you end up needing to add a shim between the switch and it's ramp mounting tab to cause the switch blade to sit a bit higher?[quoted image]
That’s funky cold Medina. Hmmm. Here is what I would do... start by slow rolling a couple of balls and get a sense of exactly how far things have shifted. Then I would carefully try to bend the the lever upwards- through counter clockwise moment forces centered at the connection to the switch. You just need a bit it sounds like. That’s what I’d do.
Quoted from RoyF:Left ramp shots on my DI-LE no longer loop all the way around. The culprit is the switch just prior to the Betty diverter. The blade on the switch hangs low, low enough such that when the ball contacts it the tip of the blade hangs up on the bottom rail of the ramp, and the ball bounces off the switch blade and back onto the playfield.
Manipulating the switch by hand shows that there is quite a bit of slop in the blade action. Keeping in mind that the switch is mounted horizontally, there is quite a bit of up / down play in the switch. Is that normal? The switch blade is properly fitted onto the switch body on the top (can see it), and seems like it is properly fitted onto the bottom of the switch body too, but I haven't disassembled yet to get access to the switch mounting or the bottom of the switch.
Has anyone else had this problem? Did you end up needing to add a shim between the switch and it's ramp mounting tab to cause the switch blade to sit a bit higher?[quoted image]
My guess is the mounting bracket. Perhaps a screw fell out, and it is being held in by one screw and slowly sinking lower and lower. When I got my WOZ, one of the microswitches only had one screw in the bracket, and it eventually came loose and got out of position. I would definitely check.
Can somebody explain switch 46 (Train 1 Ramp not diverted) to me? The switch works in test mode and I do not experience any problems while playing - but it’s the only switch that does not trigger the flash in selfie mode. What does this switch do anyway?
Hey all. New owner of LE #313 here. Super fun game so far. I've got a couple questions though.
My game came with a cliffy over the SIM hole. Is this the JJP protector or the actual cliffy? See pics.
It also came with other cliffies and a mantis for the phone scoop. Are these the new cliffies? The old JJP protectors? What is that little stubby cliffy?
Last question - Is there supposed to be a rubber on the left post by the SIM hole. See pic below.
Cliffy1 (resized).jpgCliffy2 (resized).jpgCliffy3 (resized).jpgRubber (resized).jpgQuoted from Nokoro:My guess is the mounting bracket. Perhaps a screw fell out
Both screws are in place. But I will check for tightness today once I get access to those screws (looks like need to remove some plastic first).
Quoted from holminone:Then I would carefully try to bend the the lever upwards
Its hard to bend that switch blade in that way, seems like I'd need to torque / twist the blade which doesn't work well on a flat blade.
Perhaps others could tell me - do you have much up/down wiggle room on that switch blade on your game? I have what seems to me like excessive movement. Nothing needs to be disassembled on your game to check, just pull the glass and use a finger to see how much up/down movement is possible on that switch blade.
Are you able to restore your settings after a full update? I was on v1.56 and did a backup. Folder on USB stick shows backup with 1.94mb. I successfully loaded 1.60 and then 1.73. When I put the usb stick in with the backup folder and go to backup restore, hit enter, nothing happens. So can this be done? Looking for high scores, games played, etc.
Quoted from Vyzer2:Are you able to restore your settings after a full update?
I recently made a settings backup and restored it successfully. Did the settings backup, then loaded v1.60, after reboot I updated to v1.73, and after rebooting that I did a restore settings from backup. My first attempt at restoring settings was unsuccessful because on my storage medium I had renamed the settings backup file to a meaningful name. Once I changed the file name back to the original name and put that folder on my flash drive then the restore settings worked. I appreciated the error that JJP displayed during my unsuccessful settings restore attempt, it showed exactly what path and file name were expected for the backup file.
Quoted from NightTrain:Hey all. New owner of LE #313 here. Super fun game so far. I've got a couple questions though.
My game came with a cliffy over the SIM hole. Is this the JJP protector or the actual cliffy? See pics.
It also came with other cliffies and a mantis for the phone scoop. Are these the new cliffies? The old JJP protectors? What is that little stubby cliffy?
Last question - Is there supposed to be a rubber on the left post by the SIM hole. See pic below.
Anyone?
Quoted from NightTrain:Hey all. New owner of LE #313 here. Super fun game so far. I've got a couple questions though.
My game came with a cliffy over the SIM hole. Is this the JJP protector or the actual cliffy? See pics.
It also came with other cliffies and a mantis for the phone scoop. Are these the new cliffies? The old JJP protectors? What is that little stubby cliffy?
Last question - Is there supposed to be a rubber on the left post by the SIM hole. See pic below.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You have a mix of actual cliffies and a crappy JJP-designed protector abortion in that picture. JJP tried to do their own protectors and failed before putting actual cliffies on the machines. Looks like you have some of both.
These are what the real cliffies set looks like for dialed in (jjp did not include all cliffy protector pieces from the factory once they started adding them):
https://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/Dialed-In-Complete001.jpg
Quoted from blimpey:Caught my girlfriend posing for the camera:[quoted image]
Nice girlfriend!
Finally was able to upgrade.
- had to use a memory card in a usb adapter for the upgrade to 1.6.
- had to remove the top folder of the unpacked zip on my original flash drive to upgrade to 1.73.
Runs great so far. Dig the rocket.
NightTrain yes there should be rubber on that post. Looks like previous owner might have taken it off to make SIM shot easier.
There are a few pictures of the SIM hole in the image gallery attached to this thread. There you can see how it should look, along with some shots of the old and new "Cliffy" type protectors.
I noticed a little wrinkling on my DILE cabinet, while I was playing one on location I noticed that there was a small cushion between the leg and the cab on there pinball machine. The operator said this came like that from the factory, the Willie Wonka also had this. I haven’t seen anything posted in this thread about it and want to prevent further damage. Does anyone know anything about this?
91A790A6-A8F0-4357-A429-8A34B2B071B1 (resized).jpegQuoted from Kingpin22:I noticed a little wrinkling on my DILE cabinet, while I was playing one on location I noticed that there was a small cushion between the leg and the cab on there pinball machine. The operator said this came like that from the factory, the Willie Wonka also had this. I haven’t seen anything posted in this thread about it and want to prevent further damage. Does anyone know anything about this?[quoted image]
Yes, mine has the cushion. If yours is missing it, call JJP, and I'm sure they can send you them.
Quoted from Kingpin22:I noticed a little wrinkling on my DILE cabinet, while I was playing one on location I noticed that there was a small cushion between the leg and the cab on there pinball machine. The operator said this came like that from the factory, the Willie Wonka also had this. I haven’t seen anything posted in this thread about it and want to prevent further damage. Does anyone know anything about this?[quoted image]
The legs have a little negative curve that points in toward the cabinet and makes contact with the decal. Pretty sure JJP added those somewhere in the run (our Dialed In from very early in the original run did not have them) because of issues with this. I'd get the felt or something else to make a little more of a standoff, or it will get worse.
I think it was Butch Peel who told me last TPF those were what they call the "dog hair" type protectors that they put on customer's pins, but never on their own. The JJP cabinets all have metal plate spacers between the legs and cabinet, so the Dog Hair type cushions really aren't needed. I took mine off when I got it home...
Quoted from SilverWings:I think it was Butch Peel who told me last TPF those were what they call the "dog hair" type protectors that they put on customer's pins, but never on their own. The JJP cabinets all have metal plate spacers between the legs and cabinet, so the Dog Hair type cushions really aren't needed. I took mine off when I got it home...
The metal plate spacers aren't *quite* thick enough to keep the leg off the decal (at least not on the original run). Check the back legs, especially. If they haven't changed them, they are making contact with the decal in about a pea-sized area, which is plenty to cause wrinkling, pulling, tearing over time.
It’s needed, this the wrinkle starting to appear on my game. That’s why I was looking at the one on route and saw the cushion and was surprised the operator said it was factory and came with them. I was checking to see if this is a problem with other DILE, I didn’t over tighten the leg bolts when I put on the legs.
97E55CF6-7B4D-48F8-A538-ED978827C7DA (resized).jpegQuoted from ralphs007:Update on the trap door. After I greased the trap door,and moved the parts around a bit,the door worked a little better,but it was still hanging up.
The thing that did the trick,was playing about twenty games,on the newly greased trap door.
Now it's opening and closing like a champ! Every once in awhile,it stays open,into the next game.It's not enough to bother me,and now the game is playing much better.
I'd like to thank Lloyd,for taking the time to call me,and helping me out.
I love you man
OK, so I too seem to have a hanging trap door. How/where and what should be "greased?" And, what type of grease? Thanks in advance, Stan.
Quoted from PinMonk:The metal plate spacers aren't *quite* thick enough to keep the leg off the decal (at least not on the original run). Check the back legs, especially. If they haven't changed them, they are making contact with the decal in about a pea-sized area, which is plenty to cause wrinkling, pulling, tearing over time.
Pretty sure I and others ended up using 2 metal spacers to keep legs from touching the cabinet.
Quoted from Navystan:OK, so I too seem to have a hanging trap door. How/where and what should be "greased?" And, what type of grease? Thanks in advance, Stan.
Nothing, lift the field, move the mech. Find where it's binding, adjust as necessary to avoid the bind.
Quoted from Navystan:How/where and what should be "greased?" And, what type of grease?
Any grease. I used chain grease for a garage door opener. A little across the axle with the black clip, and a tiny bit across the top of the latch that locks it. Red arrows point to the areas.
Grease it, work up and down a few times by hand. You should be good to go.
LTG : )
DITrap (resized).JPGQuoted from Kingpin22:It’s needed, this the wrinkle starting to appear on my game. That’s why I was looking at the one on route and saw the cushion and was surprised the operator said it was factory and came with them. I was checking to see if this is a problem with other DILE, I didn’t over tighten the leg bolts when I put on the legs.[quoted image]
It's a problem with the design of the legs or the thinness of the standoffs, not your tightening. Thicker standoffs would solve this. Ignoring it will make it worse over time.
Quoted from LTG:Any grease. I used chain grease for a garage door opener. A little across the axle with the black clip, and a tiny bit across the top of the latch that locks it. Red arrows point to the areas.
Grease it, work up and down a few times by hand. You should be good to go.
LTG : )[quoted image]
Awesome, thanks! Per someone else's recommendation, I did manually move the two mechs and they moved when pushed and pulled. I think a little TLC will do the trick.
Quoted from romulusx:Is 1.73 new code or is TWIP just now getting to it?
I don't know what TWIP is but 1.73 is about 2 weeks old now.
Quoted from altan:I don't know what TWIP is but 1.73 is about 2 weeks old now.
This week in pinball is a great online pinball resource.Whats new on 1.73 I can’t find the change log on JJP’s site
Quoted from romulusx:This week in pinball is a great online pinball resource.Whats new on 1.73 I can’t find the change log on JJP’s site
It's basically 1.71 with performance addressed for those that were impacted.
=============================================================================
== Version 01.73 September 25, 2019 ==
============================================================================
– NOTE: This is a “delta” upgrade, which must be installed over V01.60 or
V01.61 or V01.71
=== Game Code
* display performance enhancements
* QED and Betty now start moving at beginning of ball search instead of at end
Quoted from dug:* QED and Betty now start moving at beginning of ball search instead of at end
Marvelous !
Have I just been lucky or does 1.73 also always show the JJP logo on the big display at boot?
This is opposed to sometimes showing it on the Quantum Theater...
I upgraded to 1.7 a few days ago and I enabled attract mode to include sound. After awhile it recognizes when someone walks past and it starts dialing a character. That is really cool. I will go up and push play. I don’t know when this was implemented but I really like it.
Quoted from RipleYYY:finally...
just before the WE, was the right time to update to 1.73, and in my first game, BOUM ! SHOWDOWN
[quoted image]
quite sure (or again, its the placebo effect !?) coils are now working perfect
much better, especially with the phone scoop, easier when you "know" your pin and how the ball will react...
Just updated a day or two ago and finally put some games on tonight. Coils are still inconsistent but much much better than they were. Its tolerable but still there. I believe the "under attack" insert briefly turns yellow when the audio "now your dialed in" plays. Doesn't do it if you flip to skip. I noticed some new effects which are nice.
I had a little panic attack when all the inserts went rainbow colored after emoji overload LOL. After the WOZ lighting fiasco the first thing I thought was I had a led board drop out. WOZ would do this sometimes when you had a bad board, you might get a whole section that just goes crazy rainbow colors.
Added over 5 years ago:Never mind on the under attack insert turning yellow. Its just an optical illusion.
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