(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

7 years ago


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#8551 4 years ago

So we have to swap out the processor in lieu of JJP providing a software update?

#8552 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Yes, my video would slow down on the back glass and the phone. So far it seems to have solved it. Also, my phone scoop would sometimes take more than one try to eject. That issue seems resolved as well. I only played about 7 games but also tested acid rain with the glass off and no sync issue.

Yes, same issue seems resolved. The extra ram was just a test that I did before the processor swap. It doesn’t use all 4gb of ram so no benefit from that.

sounds great. I just ordered an i5 4670, which should also fit the mb and should be even faster. Will report my results, as soon as I as it received and I was able to test it.

Anybody can confirm the processor does really fits?

#8553 4 years ago

If it’s a LGA 1150 socket it will fit for sure.

The only thing I‘m thinking about is the heat generation as faster processors are generating more heat. If there is a heat build-up this could also result in reduced processor performance (which could also be a reason for the problems some experience). I once had such a problem on a gaming PC - the cooling system was not sufficient enough and the processor reduced performance by half. After replacing the cooler with a better one the problem was gone...

#8555 4 years ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

it is:
amazon.com link »
thanks,
Lars

Then it will fit for sure. I would recommend to add a better cooler for the processor - the cooler of the boxed version is a low-end one. I have an Arctic Cooler which is cheap but very good. Look at the measurements so that it fits into the casing in the backbox.

#8556 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Yes, my video would slow down on the back glass and the phone. So far it seems to have solved it. Also, my phone scoop would sometimes take more than one try to eject. That issue seems resolved as well. I only played about 7 games but also tested acid rain with the glass off and no sync issue.

Thanks so much for reporting back on this interesting mod. Did your machine also have the LED flicker on the Betty lamp prior to the upgrade, and if so, did the CPU change resolve this issue as well?

While the CPU upgrade seems like a pretty straightforward connection to curing intense graphics/animations due to increased computing horsepower, I'm curious to understand the connection to power/coil issues, which seem (to me) to be not directly associated with increased CPU power. But, I'm no IT professional, and if the CPU upgrade fixes both sets of issues, then it's a relatively inexpensive win-win, which allow everyone to experience the new code past 1.57 without any downsides!

Looking forward to reading about others experiences as well - again, thanks!

#8557 4 years ago

Nobody should have to upgrade their CPU...that's just silly. I am hopeful JJP will work it out in code.

An update from JJP on the issue would be nice...

#8558 4 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Nobody should have to upgrade their CPU...that's just silly. I am hopeful JJP will work it out in code.
An update from JJP on the issue would be nice...

You're absolutely right, I just wanted to test it to see and liked the results, so I am sticking with it. I am going to try the old processor with an updated micro GPU to see if that does anything for the video sync issues just as another test. I just like tinkering and wanted to see what it would do. Clark could be right as well and it could be a heat issue. I haven't tested thoroughly enough to know but mileage may vary for everyone. This isn't a guaranteed fix, it just worked for me with the older processor, so don't kill the messenger.

Quoted from demaximis:

Thanks so much for reporting back on this interesting mod. Did your machine also have the LED flicker on the Betty lamp prior to the upgrade, and if so, did the CPU change resolve this issue as well?
While the CPU upgrade seems like a pretty straightforward connection to curing intense graphics/animations due to increased computing horsepower, I'm curious to understand the connection to power/coil issues, which seem (to me) to be not directly associated with increased CPU power. But, I'm no IT professional, and if the CPU upgrade fixes both sets of issues, then it's a relatively inexpensive win-win, which allow everyone to experience the new code past 1.57 without any downsides!
Looking forward to reading about others experiences as well - again, thanks!

Only thing I can think is driving the boards while all 3 screens are going, it may slow down which causes the problem. Hard to say. So far, I am having great results though.

#8559 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

You're absolutely right, I just wanted to test it to see and liked the results, so I am sticking with it. I am going to try the old processor with an updated micro GPU to see if that does anything for the video sync issues just as another test. I just like tinkering and wanted to see what it would do. Clark could be right as well and it could be a heat issue. I haven't tested thoroughly enough to know but mileage may vary for everyone. This isn't a guaranteed fix, it just worked for me with the older processor, so don't kill the messenger.

I think it is great you tested it. Thank you for doing that and reporting back!

#8560 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Only thing I can think is driving the boards while all 3 screens are going, it may slow down which causes the problem. Hard to say. So far, I am having great results though.

Maybe... So, did you have the flicker issue previously, and now it's gone?

Also, did you think about trying to update the BIOS on the motherboard? It looks like, from the factory, the BIOS version JJP is using is V1.21B1 (I'm guessing it's a beta version). On the MSI site, it looks like the latest version is 1.9. However, the Hardware specs summary reports that the 1.21B1 bios is current as of 12/1/2015, and the 1.9 version is 4/14/2015, which is not much later than the installed BIOS (though it is a large version jump).

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H81M-P33

As I do not see V1.21B on the MSI site, I also wonder if it's a custom BIOS...

Normally, if this was a true PC, I'd update it (I also like to tinker, and I like to have the latest software installed), to get the greater CPU and memory compatibilities, as well as microcode fixes. But, because it's not a true PC, I'd be nervous about updating it. I also haven't played with the current BIOS to see if there is a way to back up the factory BIOS, in case updating screws something up.

Just wondered if you (or anyone else) had tried this?

Thanks!

#8561 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

...Yes, same issue seems resolved. The extra ram was just a test that I did before the processor swap. It doesn’t use all 4gb of ram so no benefit from that.

yep, i see/know about the amount of memory, was more talking about using the dual channel... a bit faster for sure but reading you this not really help

the CPU swap seems the way to go

#8562 4 years ago

I really have no idea about any of this, but I would only offer one piece of caution, that correlation does not alway equal causation. I don't think there are enough data points to really say anything definitive.

#8563 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I really have no idea about any of this, but I would only offer one piece of caution, that correlation does not alway equal causation. I don't think there are enough data points to really say anything definitive.

Which was my point really. Mileage may vary for sure. It’s just more me testing to see if results vary.

Quoted from demaximis:

Maybe... So, did you have the flicker issue previously, and now it's gone?
Also, did you think about trying to update the BIOS on the motherboard? It looks like, from the factory, the BIOS version JJP is using is V1.21B1 (I'm guessing it's a beta version). On the MSI site, it looks like the latest version is 1.9. However, the Hardware specs summary reports that the 1.21B1 bios is current as of 12/1/2015, and the 1.9 version is 4/14/2015, which is not much later than the installed BIOS (though it is a large version jump).
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H81M-P33
As I do not see V1.21B on the MSI site, I also wonder if it's a custom BIOS...
Normally, if this was a true PC, I'd update it (I also like to tinker, and I like to have the latest software installed), to get the greater CPU and memory compatibilities, as well as microcode fixes. But, because it's not a true PC, I'd be nervous about updating it. I also haven't played with the current BIOS to see if there is a way to back up the factory BIOS, in case updating screws something up.
Just wondered if you (or anyone else) had tried this?
Thanks!

So yes, the bios is a custom bios from ami. They have an update tool on their website, but I haven’t really dug into that yet. First I want to test different scenarios to see what affect it may have, if any. Next is a GPU test with the old and new processor to see if results vary at all. Also have some better coolers I’m going to do some testing with this weekend on both processors to see if there are any changes.

#8564 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

I just wanted to test it to see and liked the results

I think this is great news. I also have the geriatric processor installed and have heard too many stories of delays in the onboard software with versions greater than 1.57 so I've been hesitant to upgrade, as much as I'd like to.

I work in the IT industry and the only thing I would recommend is getting a processor with a similar "TDP" to the factory installed versions. The TDP is the heat dissipation from the processor. Heat is a major problem in enclosed spaced (like the backbox). Although it is tempting to get the biggest processor you could find, especially since the older processors required by the motherboard are getting cheaper, you would want to ensure that the processor heat is not significantly greater than what is currently there. This would imply that a 65W (or less) thermal specification processor would be best.

#8565 4 years ago

Quick question,Is there any good reason I shouldn't store my DI manual, inside of my game cabinet? I'm going to keep it in the box it came in,so it doesn't get metal particles all over it. The thing is like an encyclopedia, and it takes up a lot of space. I'm getting ready to sell my house,and the more clutter I can eliminate the better.

#8566 4 years ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Quick question,Is there any good reason I shouldn't store my DI manual, inside of my game cabinet? I'm going to keep it in the box it came in,so it doesn't get metal particles all over it. The thing is like an encyclopedia, and it takes up a lot of space. I'm getting ready to sell my house,and the more clutter I can eliminate the better.

Some people have never removed their stapled manuals, on older non-JJP games, from the cabinet. I would think it is ok as long as it doesn’t press up against anything that would cause it to interfere with the mechs.

#8567 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the connector for the coin door switches right inside the coin door. Reseat, push connectors/wires together real tight, be sure no wire or pin is sticking out of the connector.
LTG : )

Lloyd, I am having the same problem with my newly acquired Dialed In. The escape/back button is not responding in the coin door. All the other button register fine. I removed the button assembly, checked and cleaned the contacts, and still nothing from the green button. I tried shorting all the pins, and while I could trigger the other buttons this way, the Escape button remains dead. I followed the green/black stripe wire through the coin door until it reach the first large Molex connector, and saw no shorts or loose wires. Any other thoughts or connections I should be looking at to try to solve this problem?

I sent an IM to the OP, in the hopes that he found an easy solution, but I thought that I would also post here, in case others had a similar problem.

Thanks in advance!

#8568 4 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

I have clock speeds in the 3000’s and i have the erratic coil issues. So it likely not the processor speed unless we are all undersizes but i do not know enough to answer that question. I have also experienced slower animation on the main screen. I cant say how often but i know it has happened.

I guess this was missed so I will post it again.

I have a dual core Pentium with clock speeds of 3299 and I still have the erratic coil issue and have observed slow animation on the main screen.

I cant see JJP pushing an update to a game that cant run it.

#8569 4 years ago
Quoted from demaximis:

first large Molex connector,

Try unplugging it and reseating it and pushing together real tight.

LTG : )

#8570 4 years ago

Uhhh....hey bud, can I have my ball back?

Just completed Emoji overload with two shots and scored 103,000.

DI (resized).JPGDI (resized).JPG
#8571 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

Which was my point really. Mileage may vary for sure. It’s just more me testing to see if results vary.

So yes, the bios is a custom bios from ami. They have an update tool on their website, but I haven’t really dug into that yet. First I want to test different scenarios to see what affect it may have, if any. Next is a GPU test with the old and new processor to see if results vary at all. Also have some better coolers I’m going to do some testing with this weekend on both processors to see if there are any changes.

But all in all the initial trigger for the slowdowns was the update 1.6. As we know that the update was done to support different mainboards, the drivers must be the main problem here as with the previous system up to version 1.57 it’s working flawlessly, no matter if they have the Celeron or the Pentium processor.

#8572 4 years ago

Does anyone know what the mode timer difficulty setting actually changes? The values are 1-5 with the default 4.

Rob

#8573 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try unplugging it and reseating it and pushing together real tight.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. I figured it might be the connectors as well, after figuring out that it was not a dirty contact under the rubber piece (similar to problems I've fixed with sticky "remote control" buttons in the past).

I re-seated the connector at the board several times, first. No go. Then, I tried to bridge a connection at the pins. All worked except for escape/back. Then, I tried to trace the wire for that button, until it entered the wire sleeve behind the coin door. No touching of wire to anything, and the wire sleeve looks pristine. The wires exit the sleeve, and split to two connectors - 4 prong and 12 prong. The 12 prong connector appears to contain the green/black stripe wire which controls the escape button. This was the large molex connector I referred to, and it is located next to the coin box. I disconnected and re-seated this connector several times, tightly. Also, no-go.

Beyond this connector, the wire colors change, and snake back to the back of the cabinet. I did not have time to trace them before work this morning, and I guess I will try to check continuity when I have more time this weekend.

Any other specific areas/locations/connectors I should focus on before going on a single wire hunt? Thanks for your excellent support - much appreciated.

#8574 4 years ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

I think this is great news. I also have the geriatric processor installed and have heard too many stories of delays in the onboard software with versions greater than 1.57 so I've been hesitant to upgrade, as much as I'd like to.
I work in the IT industry and the only thing I would recommend is getting a processor with a similar "TDP" to the factory installed versions. The TDP is the heat dissipation from the processor. Heat is a major problem in enclosed spaced (like the backbox). Although it is tempting to get the biggest processor you could find, especially since the older processors required by the motherboard are getting cheaper, you would want to ensure that the processor heat is not significantly greater than what is currently there. This would imply that a 65W (or less) thermal specification processor would be best.

You are correct, but the stock cooler is an Intel E97379-003 CPU Cooler that has a TDP rating at 95w, so if you are at 85w or less, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you use a good thermal paste like arctic silver (which is what I have on hand).

#8575 4 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

But all in all the initial trigger for the slowdowns was the update 1.6. As we know that the update was done to support different mainboards, the drivers must be the main problem here as with the previous system up to version 1.57 it’s working flawlessly, no matter if they have the Celeron or the Pentium processor.

What I find odd is how inconsistent this has been or seems to have been. I still had some slow down on 1.57 (on acid rain, alien invasion, whirlwind, and occasionally on singularity). Big Bang sometimes would slow down as well. I don't know if there is a "one-size fits all" fix except for in the software. I think they need to test on multiple machines with each processor (if that is the only true difference). Also, it would be interesting to know what driver changes have been made and the impact.

#8577 4 years ago
Quoted from demaximis:

Thanks Lloyd. I figured it might be the connectors as well, after figuring out that it was not a dirty contact under the rubber piece (similar to problems I've fixed with sticky "remote control" buttons in the past).
I re-seated the connector at the board several times, first. No go. Then, I tried to bridge a connection at the pins. All worked except for escape/back. Then, I tried to trace the wire for that button, until it entered the wire sleeve behind the coin door. No touching of wire to anything, and the wire sleeve looks pristine. The wires exit the sleeve, and split to two connectors - 4 prong and 12 prong. The 12 prong connector appears to contain the green/black stripe wire which controls the escape button. This was the large molex connector I referred to, and it is located next to the coin box. I disconnected and re-seated this connector several times, tightly. Also, no-go.
Beyond this connector, the wire colors change, and snake back to the back of the cabinet. I did not have time to trace them before work this morning, and I guess I will try to check continuity when I have more time this weekend.
Any other specific areas/locations/connectors I should focus on before going on a single wire hunt? Thanks for your excellent support - much appreciated.

I may have missed the obvious in a previous post, but you're sure the button itself isn't bad? Short the leads at the button to make sure it's not the button itself. And if you already tested this, please excuse me

Rob

#8578 4 years ago
Quoted from demaximis:

Any other specific areas/locations/connectors I should focus on before going on a single wire hunt? Thanks for your excellent support - much appreciated.

The Escape button wires - Black, and Yellow with Violet stripe go to J602 pin 10 on the I/O board. I'd reseat that connector, make sure no wires/pins are pushed out. Then check continuity from switch to I/O board to see which wire has the break and then try and run that wire down.

LTG : )

#8579 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I may have missed the obvious in a previous post, but you're sure the button itself isn't bad? Short the leads at the button to make sure it's not the button itself.

Good point. Also be sure the lugs on the switch aren't shorting to metal.

LTG : )

#8580 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Good point. Also be sure the lugs on the switch aren't shorting to metal.
LTG : )

I just looked at mine quickly, I'm not sure how it can be tested without taking it apart. It's not like the WMS or older Stern buttons with exposed wire lugs. The new ones appear to be a PCB mounted in a black plastic housing.

Rob

#8581 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I just looked at mine quickly, I'm not sure how it can be tested without taking it apart. It's not like the WMS/Stern buttons with exposed wire lugs.

Then you'd have to go to the connector inside the cabinet up front and unplug the connector and check there.

LTG : )

#8582 4 years ago

LTG Do you know if JJP has any official stance on the code causing video lag? Or should I create a ticket? I don't want to alter my CPU if a code fix is coming down the pipe.

Thanks for any advice.

Brian

#8583 4 years ago
Quoted from pinghetto:

Do you know if JJP has any official stance on the code causing video lag?

I do not know.

Quoted from pinghetto:

Or should I create a ticket?

Please do that.

LTG : )

#8584 4 years ago

Thanks to all that have posted about the CPU swap. I think I can speak for eveeryone on here that your efforts are really appreciated. I had minor slow down on 1.56 and a little on 1.57 (same places ppl are mentioning).

It looks like the CPU may not be the problem if a swapped CPU still produces the delays in video. To me, the Celeron should be able to handle the machine easily as there's not nearly as much going on as a full blown PC. Still wish mine had the better CPU...

It'll be interesting to see what a GPU swap does as the hardware title implies (graphics processing unit) that it would likely have more of an effect on graphics. If I remember, the GPU is only a 512mb. I'd say a gig of memory should be the minimum, considering the amount of graphics this machine pushes to two screens. Maybe the phone uses onboard, while the backbox uses the card?

Ted has been mum on all of this, so he must be busy tightening up Wonka. We're probably going to have to wait until Wonka has 90% complete and stable code. Anyone have a Wonka and can comment on its code progression?

#8585 4 years ago
Quoted from pinghetto:

LTG Do you know if JJP has any official stance on the code causing video lag? Or should I create a ticket? I don't want to alter my CPU if a code fix is coming down the pipe.
Thanks for any advice.
Brian

Thank you, LTG. I'll open one up Monday!

Have a good weekend....

Brian

#8586 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The Escape button wires - Black, and Yellow with Violet stripe go to J602 pin 10 on the I/O board. I'd reseat that connector, make sure no wires/pins are pushed out. Then check continuity from switch to I/O board to see which wire has the break and then try and run that wire down.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd - I found that info in the manual this morning, and will check the connector at the IO board this evening. Then, I'll start checking continuity (if I can find my always-misplaced multimeter). I tried reseating the connector this morning, but it was early, and I was in a hurry. I'll give it another look when I get home. Many thanks for responding - both here, and via email. JJP keeps you busy, and the customer service is impressive. Sorry if I caused a "double post" through my inquiries to join the JJP google group!

Quoted from Rob_G:

I just looked at mine quickly, I'm not sure how it can be tested without taking it apart. It's not like the WMS or older Stern buttons with exposed wire lugs. The new ones appear to be a PCB mounted in a black plastic housing.
Rob

That's correct, and I had already taken it apart and tested the button. Pretty spiffy engineering of the part - the PCB can be popped out of the black plastic housing, and the PCB itself has metal contacts which are triggered by a rubber piece which sits under the plastic buttons. Very similar to a TV remote control. In the past, I've fixed those by cleaning the metal contact under the rubber piece with an eraser, and I thought that was what I needed to do here. However, it was not the button, and shorting the leads at the button did nothing for this one (shorting the other buttons worked fine). So, while this didn't fix the problem, it might one day help someone else that does have a bad button.

Now, on to hunt down a broken or disconnected wire.

Again - thanks for the helpful tips and feedback!

Quoted from LTG:

Then you'd have to go to the connector inside the cabinet up front and unplug the connector and check there.
LTG : )

That will be my next stop, and I'll report back with what I find!

#8587 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

What I find odd is how inconsistent this has been or seems to have been. I still had some slow down on 1.57 (on acid rain, alien invasion, whirlwind, and occasionally on singularity). Big Bang sometimes would slow down as well. I don't know if there is a "one-size fits all" fix except for in the software. I think they need to test on multiple machines with each processor (if that is the only true difference). Also, it would be interesting to know what driver changes have been made and the impact.

Slowdowns on 1.57? Really? Never ever experienced that, still on 1.57 here, stock Pentium processor.

#8588 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

To me, the Celeron should be able to handle the machine easily as there's not nearly as much going on as a full blown PC. Still wish mine had the better CPU...
It'll be interesting to see what a GPU swap does as the hardware title implies (graphics processing unit) that it would likely have more of an effect on graphics.

I thought about this too, but then remembered that the beefier Intel Haswell CPU's (like the i5 installed by @coindropper) had upgraded onboard video capabilities as well (HD graphics vs HD 4600), in addition to the higher clocked single core performance, and multiple cores. So, even if the raw "horsepower" of the chip is not necessary, given the relatively low computing power, it still might improve performance because of the onboard graphics bump.

Still not sure how it fixes the coil issues, but if it does, I won't argue. Once I get my "escape button" problem fixed, I will try the CPU upgrade, and see what happens!

#8589 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Thanks to all that have posted about the CPU swap. I think I can speak for eveeryone on here that your efforts are really appreciated. I had minor slow down on 1.56 and a little on 1.57 (same places ppl are mentioning).
It looks like the CPU may not be the problem if a swapped CPU still produces the delays in video. To me, the Celeron should be able to handle the machine easily as there's not nearly as much going on as a full blown PC. Still wish mine had the better CPU...
It'll be interesting to see what a GPU swap does as the hardware title implies (graphics processing unit) that it would likely have more of an effect on graphics. If I remember, the GPU is only a 512mb. I'd say a gig of memory should be the minimum, considering the amount of graphics this machine pushes to two screens. Maybe the phone uses onboard, while the backbox uses the card?
Ted has been mum on all of this, so he must be busy tightening up Wonka. We're probably going to have to wait until Wonka has 90% complete and stable code. Anyone have a Wonka and can comment on its code progression?

CPU has been good since I have done the swap. No issues on about 25 games so far. I am getting an updated GPU today to test with the old processor to see if it helps at all with the slowdown on the old Celeron. If it does, it's much cheaper and even simpler to install. I will update once I have it today and get it all swapped out.

#8590 4 years ago
Quoted from demaximis:

I thought about this too, but then remembered that the beefier Intel Haswell CPU's (like the i5 installed by coindropper) had upgraded onboard video capabilities as well (HD graphics vs HD 4600), in addition to the higher clocked single core performance, and multiple cores. So, even if the raw "horsepower" of the chip is not necessary, given the relatively low computing power, it still might improve performance because of the onboard graphics bump.
Still not sure how it fixes the coil issues, but if it does, I won't argue. Once I get my "escape button" problem fixed, I will try the CPU upgrade, and see what happens!

What coil issues are you having? Is it the phone scoop not always kicking out too? If so, I haven't had the problem since the swap.

#8591 4 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

CPU has been good since I have done the swap. No issues on about 25 games so far. I am getting an updated GPU today to test with the old processor to see if it helps at all with the slowdown on the old Celeron. If it does, it's much cheaper and even simpler to install. I will update once I have it today and get it all swapped out.

Yeah, that will be a cheap and easy fix. Used GPUs are easy to pick up for dirt from gamers who upgrade. Excited to hear your results. If I was in Texas, I'd buy you a steak and a beer, my friend.

#8592 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Yeah, that will be a cheap and easy fix. Used GPUs are easy to pick up for dirt from gamers who upgrade. Excited to hear your results. If I was in Texas, I'd buy you a steak and a beer, my friend.

No problem at all, just trying to help as much as I've been helped on here. I hope it works out and is a much more user friendly fix for the video sync problems for anyone experiencing them.

#8593 4 years ago

well, all this seems logical

the i5 swap not only better for processing perf but also for the integrated GPU in it (main screen)...
and if that part make all the system running better, the added GPU (the radeon 6450 for the theatre+phone) takes also advantage of the overall situation...

#8594 4 years ago

Is the 'photo with high score' feature broken? A lot of the time the game will make like it is taking a picture just after high score initials, but it doesn't use the photo it just supposedly took. Instead, you see another picture that was taken sometime during gameplay. The option is not disabled on my game either. Face tracking and general picture taking works fine otherwise.

Rob

#8595 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Is the 'photo with high score' feature broken? A lot of the time the game will make like it is taking a picture just after high score initials, but it doesn't use the photo it just supposedly took. Instead, you see another picture that was taken sometime during gameplay. The option is not disabled on my game either. Face tracking and general picture taking works fine otherwise.
Rob

I found that I only had this happen when I was trying to make a funny picture. Anyone ever get a picture to come out of you flipping the bird? I have tried and tried, no dice.

#8596 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I found that I only had this happen when I was trying to make a funny picture. Anyone ever get a picture to come out of you flipping the bird? I have tried and tried, no dice.

I did think of that, where picture with a high score could be used to show something inappropriate. Maybe it was a feature that was partially 'nerfed' because of that? I hope it wasn't my smile that the game refused to capture lol

Rob

#8597 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Anyone ever get a picture to come out of you flipping the bird?

I have quite a good one of this on the only high score I still have after the kids keep knocking me out of the list.

We also had a friend wearing a white T-shirt with a black circular Harley Davidson logo on it. He got a high score. When it came to taking his picture, the Harley Davidson logo was displayed rather than his face. I laughed for quite a while on that one. He was unimpressed that even the electronics thought his logo was better than his face.

Not sure if that's a Ted Estes easter egg or just the fact it looked more like a face than the other option.

#8598 4 years ago

I was playing while wearing a Funhouse t-shirt which has a drawing of Rudy on it. The face detection picked Rudy's face instead of mine and displayed it on the high score table. I thought that was a nice touch.

#8599 4 years ago

Hi all, wanted to thank past posters on help with some issues I was having. I have solved them and wanted to post—

1) phone scoop rejects. Had so many from the over the top of pf protector, and the more I watched balls reject the more I was convinced it was because the ball was bouncing around between the thin metal flaps that angle down into the hole. I’ve confirmed this — I removed the protector and bent the flaps in on all 3 sides so they are about at 100 degrees. Then reinstalled and all 3 sides are flush against the wood they protect and about zero ball rejects now. Posting this as an FYI — you can keep the protector there if you get it installed flush and it shouldn’t affect phone shots. 81B81AE3-06A8-44D4-8351-F529F31D2128 (resized).jpeg81B81AE3-06A8-44D4-8351-F529F31D2128 (resized).jpeg

2) ball jumps out of left wire form. Some people said to have jjp send the plastic protector and I was about to bug them when someone posted their own dyi solution. I followed suit and damn it works well — even the super fast shots that scream back around deflect almost instantaneously down to the flipper inlane. HUGE improvement!!! Thank you to whomever posted that.

337EF977-DAA7-4810-A76E-0F0D2039EBB9 (resized).jpeg337EF977-DAA7-4810-A76E-0F0D2039EBB9 (resized).jpeg

#8600 4 years ago

So GPU test on hold. UPS shows package delivered, but it’s not here. Check cameras and never saw a package dropped. Thinking it was delivered elsewhere...

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