I'm curious if you switch the VGA cables between the Quantum Theater and the Phone if the problem with video follows. I recently had an issue where the display on my phone showed lines through the screen, and the machine would eventually lock up and reboot. I tried switching the cables on the two displays and the problem followed, which led me to believe the problem was the video card and not the display.

Does anybody have some tips on adjusting the switches on the loop wireframes? I adjusted several of them in the past because some shots were not registering when the ball was moving with decently high speed. What I did:

1. Made sure the screws were not overly tight. If overly tight, the switch just wouldn't work well.

2. I bent the leaf switch at this bend here ->

2019-01-07_1025 (resized).png

to make it more towards 90°.

However...my right ramp 'made' switch is giving me a harder time than the other ones. Now that I fixed the right ramp rejects with the electrical tape fix (see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656), and waxed the PF, there can be some decent speed on a well placed right ramp shot.

I've tried bending more towards 90° to get to 100% switch acceptance, but I'm finding I hit the critical "too much" bending point where the switch leaf now pushes the ball off the wireframe because the leaf hits the switch too soon.

Basically....maybe there is something else I can try with these switches that I haven't tried yet? Or bending them somewhere else, etc?

I'm just curious - is there a setting for the time for the combo shots?

Mirror blades are a challenge because of how tight the playfield fits into the cab. You might end up easily scratching them anytime the playfield needs to go up or down.

With that said, others have installed a thin felt on the sides of the playfield, which has helped. Maybe those who have can chime in on their success.

I personally like mirror blades, but won't install them on my DI because of the tight fit.

Don't feel bad. It's the same as buying a used car, rather than new from the dealer. Do what's best for you.

Wait to buy until you're ready. DILE new and used will be an option in several weeks.

have not seen something like this in the settings...
anyway, why would you change this ?

because this game is hard and he can't feel good about himself unless its easy so he feels like he is great at it.

Just an FYI. If you ever need to replace the video card that drives the phone, the model is: MSI ATI Radeon HD6450.

LOL seriously? I have one of those sitting in a box right now.

Mine has powerbladez, they are pretty awesome outside the scratches on them from the playfield when you lift it up / down so I could imagine mirror blades may be far worse in this situation. In either case regardless of how careful you are it's going to happen. I think you will be happy w/ DI it's awesome.

I replaced the video card,and the phone still blacked out on me. I guess it's possible that the replacement video card was bad.

Is it possible the phone is losing its connection from the vibration/shock of the balls hitting the scoop posts?
If I leave my game on for a long time the phone doesn’t seem to go out. But during gameplay it seems to lose the connection or reset (ie the VGA comes on and goes away).
It had not been doing that for a while, but the issue recently started back up again. Maybe the cable connection got loose...I pushed it back in again so we’ll see.
But I am thinking perhaps it’s the shock of the balls that triggers the phone outage.

OK...kept playing with the trapdoor. I got in the replacement trapdoor and....with the 1 washer, it was hitting the wireframe above it still. You do definitely want a fixed trapdoor with the metal flap....orbit shots are smoother. Without the flap, even on a decent left orbit shot sometimes it wouldn't make it all the way up the ramp in the back (because it would hit the rough trapdoor opening and lose speed).

I went ahead and added a second washer, which...did help with the metal flap hitting, though...it still was. I don't think with enough force that it will cause long term damage but....I'm not sure. However, I was noticing it was a bit harder to get the ball in the trapdoor. Some slow shots were getting rejected. Or...sometimes getting a ball stuck ->

20190107_175231 (resized).jpg

I went ahead and tried two things:

1. I wanted the trapdoor to stay open in a higher position. So, I took off and bent the latch just slightly which will cause the resting open position of the trapdoor to be higher. You can't go too much though or it can't catch.

2019-01-07_2110 (resized).png

It took several tries to get the right bend, but...I am happy to say that the trapdoor rests open higher and not even the slowest ball will get rejected when open.

2. Instead of trying to bend the coil bracket upward, I added washers to the bottom two bolts. #8 washers. Technically they both can't fit next to each other so one is just sandwiched in.

20190107_180635 (resized).jpg

I believe it does reduce the travel of the coil plunger, similar to adding another washer, though maybe not quite as much. Adding 1 washer width is the maximum you can do here before the coil hits the switch above it.

Anyway....so there are only two ways I can think of to make the trapdoor function better.

1. Simply reducing the length of the metal flap. I don't see a reason why it would need to be the length it is. Even half inch less would probably reduce the possibility of hitting the wireframe above it.

2. OK, so...one of the problems is that there is simply "slop" in the trapdoor. Basically, this arm post ->

2019-01-07_1914 (resized).png

When its inside the trapdoor "door", there is space above and below it. Like...in the open position, you can move the door up still. Maybe...1/2" of vertical movement? I'm not positive that the space is necessary to have the door open and close smoothly. If its not necessary...then if like a smooth plastic sleeve were fitted over it, then you could really gain a lot more ability to adjust the door.

Basically...when the door opens, the arm moves upward till it hits the coil stop. However...the trapdoor will still move 1/2" more than that, hit the wireframe, come down and then be in the open position. In the open position, the door is now resting on top of the arm post. If the door rests too low, then slow balls can get hung up.

However, if we can remove that 1/2" of movement...then when the door opens, ...less possibility of hitting the wireframe and the exact same thing happens when in the open position....it now rests higher up so balls can more easily enter.

I was thinking of using something like duct tape to wrap around the arm post but it probably isn't smooth enough to move along inside the trapdoor.

How about a nyliner? Pending on how small the gap is I could turn one out of delrin if nothing is commercially avalible. I would be afrade tape would deteierote quickly and also can make it sticky.

The VGA screws into the phone, so I doubt it. I have swapped cables and tried a variety of tricks to get it to work. The most recent time I sent it back helped the most. I have a topper that broadcasts the VGA signal, and the toppper always works perfect, even if the phone blanks. I also get the phone reseting the VGA signal repeatedly, so I get the big VGA signal box covering the animations over and over. Better than blanking, I guess.

Sure....nyliner, Delrin....I'm not knowledgeable about those keywords but sounds good to me. But you are right....tape would just be a temporary solution because it would get sticky and not slide well. I might go ahead and try it anyway just to see if my theory is correct about adding something to the arm post.

The time for the combos should be 2 or 3 seconds longer for me...

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

I use these for working on games with any side art or blades

Been struggling to progress in this game for a long time, not getting more than a couple of hundred k. Tried lowering the flipper power since I put it on high a long time ago. Played about ten games. Got between 1 and 2,5 million in half of the games. So could be worth trying if you struggle.

so you raised the power for no reason, now are lowering back toward stock. You think maybe Pat knew what he was doing? Adjustable coils just mean people can f up their games even more by not knowing why something is set the way it is. but glad its working better for you now.

Ok...this is actually really promising.

I went ahead and got access to the arm post ->

20190108_153309 (resized).jpg

And added the smoothest tape I had at the house, which is some flex duct tape.

20190108_155845 (resized).jpg

It didn't take much...just 4-5 small strips of tape.

20190108_154033 (resized).jpg

I added a bit of super lube, and ….I am impressed!

The first thing I was worried about was if it was going to rest flush with the PF, which it has no problems with doing. (the arm post must rest naturally lower than the trapdoor rests, even with the tape on it).

20190108_155826 (resized).jpg

And...honestly, it still is hard to tell if its actually hitting the wireframe or not. I mean, when the trapdoor opens the area around it (like the station 3) can still shake whether it hits or not just because of the force of the coil in that area. But....it seems like it should definitely help because there is much less vertical play when open. Like, before the tape, when trapdoor open, I could still push the trapdoor up, but now its much less.

Second...I don't think I needed to bend the latch to have the trapdoor rest open in a higher position. Like what I did before ->

2019-01-07_2110 (resized).png

Now that the tape is in...that takes care of that issue. So I bent it back, which....makes it easier for the latch to catch the trapdoor. (if you bend it, you risk over bending and not being able to catch).

So at the moment....doing all 3 things has, in my mind...solved the issue. (added 1 #8 washer inside the coil, added 2 washers sandwiched under the bracket to "raise" the bracket, adding tape to the arm post).

Ideally.....we would have someone create an arm post "sleeve", or ...even like a cap that we can fit over post (the cap probably wouldn't need to fit the entire length of the post as long as its even), that is smooth enough.

Anyone looking to leave the club in the minneapolis area (within 6 hours) let me know. I’d love to join!

Oh...and I really doubt something would need to be specially made. I'm sure that there is a readily available, 20 cents by the foot piece of tubing or pipe at Lowes that everyone could go get that has the right interior/outer diameter. One tiny cut and a little bit of super glue and you would be in business.

That would...require taking out the arm and bringing it to Lowes and trying things out for a while. Hopefully someone that has to take the arm out for whatever reason would be willing to go the extra mile and do that bit of trial and error research...

ok, simple as that...

I raised the power because I wanted to make the ramp shots easier and felt the flippers were a bit weak. This has been discussed earlier in this thread. You don't need to be condesceding when I was just trying to give the others who raised the power a tip.

JJP pins have notoriously low default flipper power and many of us raise it to make it play better at home. If you go too far, you lower it. I agree with you. Nothing wrong in adjusting it to what works and feels best.

When I received the game, my flippers were sluggish, but the flippers just needed to be dialed in (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96). Once the flippers were properly adjusted, there was no need to raise the flipper power. Have you inspected the flipper shafts and EOS switches?

I can see your point. a byliner would be best because it can be got easily for everyone. but even small metal tubing, i have various sizes, but will have to get a game first. sorry i can't help out at the moment more. I make youtube videos, so once i get a game i can make a few on fixes i find. i definitely will tackle this first since i don't want my trap door breaking. I am also a bit concerned about the phone logentivity. Is it the screen or the entire assembly that goes bad? does the outside lights still work just a black screen?

Found this under my playfield :
Any idea ?

IMG_4351 (resized).JPG

IMG_4352 (resized).JPG

Screw on the back of the QED dude...

Correct ! Thanks

Some sets are still available !
28,- $ inclusive shipping via envelope from germany.
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Apology in advance though I Did try skimming through the 138 pages for the answer. I just joined the DILE club and noticed the drones really rarely if at all ever go on? I played a DI long ago when it first came out and swear the were spinning like crazy then. I did test each drone in test mode and all function perfectly. Is there a setting I am overlooking or did I just imagine they did more? Thanks for any direction. What a fun game we are loving it so far.

If you are on code version 1.60+, they substantially lessened the use of the drones to save on the motors.

I checked and its on 1.57 I believe. So upgrading to the newer versions will make them work even less than now? Yikes. Really hoped there was just a setting like the shaker to set how often they run. Darn

So tonight I got my drones working. I had to replace a motor in each drone, and got to practice my soldering skills! (new skill for me). This DI is new to me, so this was the first time I really got to see how they work (code 1.57). Its actually a pretty cool gameplay flare when they are working, though definitely not necessary.

Of course...now that I replaced the bad motor in each drone and they are working again, its just a matter of time till the next motor goes out on each.

20190109_200907 (resized).jpg

Though....here is a slight idea. I've been adding these Comet LED control dimmers to some lights (like..I just added a trough light to DI (a comet 7 smd strip)). ->

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm

It says it works on 6.3V ac/dc or 12V. What about splicing in one of these to each drone? I could possibly lessen the power going to the drones so the motors are not spinning as fast, and thus...prolong the life of each drone? I'm not an electrician so I can't test how much power is going to the drones or anything...

MTXBRITEADJ-2T (resized).jpg

I bought these from Wayne, excellent quality and value. Really finish the game off if you are into detail like me.

I can second that. Very nice little addon!

Thanks. What should I be looking for?

I provided a link in my response, but it doesn't look like you clicked on it?

Here is a link to information on how to adjust flippers (http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_adjust_pinball.html).

Sounds like you haven't done it before, so it will take some practice before you feel entirely comfortable.

I'm still on 1.57 and just turned the drones off. Simple solution...

Take a photo from right above to show your Flipper settings which which you are happy...

My flipper settings are on stock.

The stock seems to be different. If possible, photo please.

Have no idea what you mean "stock seems to be different". Is this what you are looking for?

Don't know if we are dealing with a language barrier here, but as I said in post #6877, there shouldn't be a need to fiddle with the flipper power if the flippers are adjusted properly.

IMG_1157 (resized).jpeg

Sorry, I meant a photo of your actual flippers not the settings. I noticed that they are adjusted differently on the playfield.

Flipper photos won't tell you anything. Please reference the links I've already provided above...they should educate you on how to adjust flippers. If they are insufficient, you can likely search Pinside or Google YouTube for helpful videos. Good luck!

I know how to adjust the flippers, I would only be interested in your personal adjustments.

I recently updated to 1.57 as consensus seems this is the safest route with the least glitches.
Played a game and everything seems to work as it should.

The only issue I’m having since the update is now I am once again getting the error message: “Blue Tooth Dongle Not Found”.

The error message goes away within about 10-20 seconds but remains in diagnostics.
Strange thing is that after I updated to 1.50/1.52 last year, the same error appeared.
Following which I replaced the USB cable and the error went away.

I tested the dongle in my desk top and it shows the light but when plugged in the DI cable, does not show any light.

Is anyone else experiencing the same error after loading the update?

I plugged mine into the motherboard. The error went away