Oh yeah, when I went to install the sim shot cliffy, I noticed how hard it was to remove the left ramp because I had the mezelmod lighted station 1/subway sign. The 3 led light strip is taped down so you can't remove it without unscrewing the screws on the ramp. Which....is hard to do without removing the ramp because there are nuts on the underside of the ramp.

Easy solution....is to instead make the led strip attached via Velcro.

20181225_112252 (resized).jpg

Thanks Lloyd! That did help. Seems likely that the reset lost the old settings and making the screen image smaller made it all visible. But I see that the monitor itself as slipped down some. I didn't see any mounting point that looked like it could be used for adjustment of the monitor height in the cabinet. But for now I'll go with a 4% smaller screen.

Is chaos in quantum city a wizard mode? Reached it for the first time on Monday, no idea what I was doing lol.

It's getting stuck on the hook that holds the door open. If you greese up the hook, it'll work perfectly.

I used/stole this picture for another fix, but it'll do for this too. Go to the latch (pointed out below) and put some lubricant on it. A dab'll do ya.

https://i1.pinside.com/e/4d/e4d573151c886bea4e96b65e258ff1e0a6699003/resized/740/e4d573151c886bea4e96b65e258ff1e0a6699003.png.jpg

Mini wizard mode....

By the way....MezelMods changed the station 1 design.

This is what it looks like on the site ->

2018-12-26_0928 (resized).png

Notice the nice raised/crisp station 1 letters.

And now....notice this pic ->

20181225_112252 (resized).jpg

Notice the station 1 letters are flat against the sign and actually look a bit worse in real life than this picture.

I immediately noticed this and emailed mezel….they said they changed the design for cost reasons. Which is fine. Doesn't excuse them from not changing the picture on their site though.

you have a PM

V1.61 on JJP site
Delta install, must ride on top of 1.60 full install

Unplugging the bluetooth dongle greatly improves screen animation speeds to near normal. Hopefully this can be fixed somehow in the next update.

After updating to 1.58 I went back in to settings and put game on directors cut.This is what I had previously I forgot how to do SIM card carry over to next game.
Is Directors cut the preferred set up or is there a consensus on something else?

I was never a fan of the original mod but that new version is def worse. I would ask for my money back

They did offer to let me return and get a refund. But...after the time I spent installing it, and then to uninstall it and ship it back seems like just making the situation worse.

I noticed there are some slowdowns still in 1.61 on video processing. Skill shot and phone are better. Extra Ball animation seems slow.

have you tried disconnecting the blue-tooth dongle?

Dumb question, is the 1.57 code in the 1.50 download? I haven't updated software in a pin before, so I wasn't sure if I have to install 1.50, then install 1.57.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

No 1.57 is not in 1.50. It would need time travel to do that. Just install 1.6 then 1.61. If you find issues report them so they can be fixed.

Thanks for the quick response. I was hopeful someone had the 1.57 download somewhere. I'll either download 1.60/1.61 as suggested or wait for the next update.

While you're at it [Ted], how about give us a setting to just leave the thing out without the game complaining, since nobody uses it anyway.

I have my BT dongle in an open usb port on the motherboard. No error message and no video lag.

I was going to suggest the same thing, unless there are plans to further implement the bluetooth feature.

I'm stubborn and haven't gotten a new phone yet.

The current phone turns on but always has a redish hue to it. Then it shuts off after a while and flickers back on with full color.

I keep checking the connections but nothing is wrong. Sometimes the phone will shut off entirely and won't turn back on when I reboot it. When I do, it'll turn back on with full color.

No idea what's causing the issue, no idea why the phone works fully after it turns itself off and then back on.

Just making a note here in case anybody else is having a similar experience.

I know DI is pretty much “done” but I would love to see the Bluetooth implemented further. It’s a gimmick yes, but it is pretty fun to try and flip from far away. It would be really cool to see other stuff you could trigger from the game. Or import photos into the game from your phone! But BT on Linux SUCKS

Time for a new phone. They're pretty easy to replace.

A friend complains that balls released from the train station (multi-ball start) or balls shot up the center ramp and around and thru the train station all too often go SDTM without touching the left or right flippers. I decided to tackle that issue today, but have been unsuccessful at resolving it.

I think I have my machine leveled properly. I see the wireform attachment point at the front left edge (entrance to Crazy Bob's) allows some left/right adjustment of the wireform. On my DI-LE the wireform was adjusted as far to the right as it can go (see attached picture). I tried adjusting the exit point of the wireform to be further to the left, several different spots tested. Doesn't seem to make an improvement. I think the balls shot up the center ramp and thru the train station are working fine, but the trapped balls released from the train station at the start of multiball typically go straight down the middle. Is it designed that way, and that's what the ball saver at the beginning of multiball does, sends the balls back into play via the shooter lane?

Anyone else have this problem, or is this normal game play? Possible solutions? Is my wireform adjusted the same as on your game?

IMG_4639 (resized).JPG

So...when my trapdoor opens, it hits the wireframe above it, then falls and catches on the latch so its open half way (enough for balls to go in, that's not an issue).

The problem is hitting the wireframe above it. JJP sent out a replacement because my metal flap snapped off, but I don't want the replacement to get ruined.

I see that there is a leaf switch, which I assume shuts off coil power as the trap door opens.

20181228_184600 (resized).jpg

Right now...the leaf switch seems to click open fairly soon after the trap door opens, but...is this the only adjustment for the trap door "opening" height? Or...maybe is there a coil power setting that I should use so the coil receives less power?

delete

Lets game know if trap door is up or down.

LTG : )

I would assume the switch just notifies the game the door is open and doesn’t control the stop. The coil firing is a pretty sudden thing. Lowering the power would learn the damage but not control the throw. Does the coil and stop have any adjustment. Aka Lodoen it and move the coil and coil stop left? Or is the stop removable possibile to replace with a longer stop?
I would also ensure the coil bracket screws are not loosened.

Ok..so, correct me if I'm wrong. I believe a coil stop is when you press like..the flipper, and an arm swings over and pushes on a leaf blade and cuts power to the coil? For example...here is the flipper on DI ->

2018-12-28_2151 (resized).png

There is no such mechanism on the trapdoor coil. And...there is no adjustment to position of the coil. I.e., I can't move it up/down, vertically, horizontally, etc. Its screwed down in one location.

20181228_214846 (resized).jpg

I also looked through the menu. There is no option to change the coil power of the trapdoor coil (unless its buried somewhere else besides the settings -> coils menu).

No there isn't.

No there isn't.

LTG : )

Ok, you are JJP support, right? So....what am I supposed to do to make the trapdoor not hit the wireframe? It can't be designed to hit the wireframe..it would snap the metal flap over a short time...

Assuming the metal above isn't bent down a little.

I would either bend the bracket forward a little in the direction of the arrow pointing up. Or the arrow pointing to the bottom of the bracket, I'd remove the coil, and drop an 8/32nds locknut in the bottom of the coil, limiting the amount of travel the plunger travels.

LTG : )

890148ae1bb4e8ce1d77cae8f3bbf3655e31baaa (resized).jpg

I can throw a locknut in there no problem. Would doing that have no repercussions on the coil or plunger over time?

No more than the plunger hitting the coil stop over time.

LTG : )

Ok...and...yeah, I made a mistake. The coil stop is this thing ->

coilbackstops2 (resized).jpg

Not...whatever thing I pointed to in the flipper assembly I posted above. I feel dumb about that.

Anyway...just want to make sure about the nut in the coil option. You said locknut, but I think you meant maybe a normal nut? A locknut with the plastic in the middle might eventually break down because of the pounding and get plastic bits in the coil sleeve. And...even with a normal nut, it might fall over in the coil sleeve which seems like could be a problem too.

I don't know...I might be over thinking it. I'm fairly new to this.

See arrow. It is pointing to another kind of coil stop.

Use any nut you want. Not rocket science. Find one the size that limits travel and the trap door still opens enough to do it's job.

Locknuts have the plastic a little lower than the metal on the nut. I doubt you'll ever get any plastic bits in the bottom of the coil. And if you do, so what ? Won't hurt anything and in years to come when the plastic link on the plunger breaks, clean the coil out when you fix that.

I just like locknuts because they are easy to drop in, and reassemble the coil and bracket thingy while keeping them on the bottom. But use what ever you like.

LTG : )

890148ae1bb4e8ce1d77cae8f3bbf3655e31baaa (resized).jpg

Thanks Lloyd. The coil stop is what ever the plunger hits when energized to stop travel. Now I can see the whole assembly. It’s a fixed stop. By putting something in there to go on top of the coil stop basically lessens the travel of the plunger and lengthens the stop. The only time I would be concerned with that idea is for a flipper. Maybe a pop. Where they hit so hard they mushroom the plunger and stop over time. That’s a 26-1500 coil. So soft hit. Your safe there. A pop coil has half the windings and is more powerful.
I’d also like to note I don’t have a DI yet. It’s on my want list and joined this club to check out the game issues etc. I can be prepared to check common areas out if I find a pre owned game. But I do have a YouTube channel “pinball mayhem” I will make videos of common fixes when I get one.
Ed

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4049572

For the Trap Door hitting the wireform.
Check Post 1258 in this thread.
In the upper left corner of the picture on the Trap Door catch, your tab may not be bent down (mine was’t). After bending this tab down my trap door open locking issue improved as well as the Trap Door hitting the wireform less.

Here is the tab I am referring to

54D4A0FA-85D8-4D24-BF4A-FE789BC4EE37 (resized).jpeg

Thanks everyone. Ok, I'll try the nut in the coil.

And...yes, the tab on the latch mechanism is bent. I don't really see how adjusting it would help the initial throw of the door hitting the wireframe though. It seems you would need to adjust the tab if:

1. Door can't open because the latch is too high so it never clears it.
2. Door can't stay open because the latch is too low so never catches.

Basically, doesn't the adjustment tab control how much travel the latch has? (that's what I understood from a video I saw about it yesterday). If so....I don't think it can control how far the vault door travels vertically on initial launch...

Yeah,
I think you are right about the tab. I thought it might help lock the trap door up before it travels too far.

I also bent my trap door flap down a bit so it doesn’t hit the wireform. If you bend it down more of the edge may contact the playfield. If so add a small piece of Mylar on the contact area of the playfield

Ok....haven't really been able to test the nut fix theory. Basically...the nut is just going to fall over, and then make it so the coil stop barely moves because its taking too much space in the coil sleeve.

20181229_133439 (resized).jpg

It falls over immediately even when trying to install the plunger back in the coil, and....its going to fall over during normal operation after a hit, or anytime you raise the PF....or basically, you can't ensure that its going to stay in position.

I guess I could solder the nut to the coil stop...but would rather not do that until its at least tested. Maybe...super glue it first?

I could try and get a longer coil stop...though not even sure how to remove the old one?

20181229_133156 (resized).jpg

Another option is to get a longer plunger though I don't have any laying around. I only see 2 options on pinballlife (slingshot/ballshooter plunger) that have the same shaped plastic piece. A 2" and a 2 1/8".

Any thoughts? Do most of your trapdoors not hit the wireframe when opening?

Roll a piece of tape. Stick to nut, stick it in there. Press down. Should stay put long enough to reassemble everything.

LTG : )

Yeah....I can do that for a short term test but...that's not going to last long term. The nut will still move around eventually. I can do that to test though to see if the nut is even viable to fix the issue...

Ok....so initial results are promising, though still needs improvement.

I'm surprised at how little the plunger actually moves inside the coil...there isn't actually a lot to work with.

Basically....a locknut is way too thick. That's about...4 washers thick.

I went ahead and superglued (I can easily take it off later with a razor) a normal nut, which is 2 washers thick and tested it.

20181229_155523 (resized).jpg

The nut definitely limits vertical movement and the trapdoor will not hit the wireframe for sure. Also...its just thick enough where it moves vertically sufficiently to catch on the latch. Though...just barely. Its hard to see in this picture, but here is the door just catching on the latch ->

20181229_150929 (resized).jpg

It should look more like this ->

20181229_150942 (resized).jpg

But...it does work to open/close the door.

However...there is no vertical play. Which....you need the door to move upward when its resting on the latch so when the ball hits the trapdoor, the trapdoor moves up..."gives"...so the ball goes in. Technically if the ball has enough force it can go in the trapdoor when its resting on the latch, but...you'll get too many rejects.

So now I'm off to ACE to get a smaller nut, or a few washers that have small enough diameters to fit in the coil sleeve.

Ok...now I'm getting somewhere.

A single #8 flat washer. 3 #8 washers are the same thickness as a single 8-32 nut, and also just fit the interior diameter of the coil sleeve.

Now, the trapdoor doesn't hit the wireframe, and...still has enough vertical play for balls to go in easily.

20181229_171234 (resized).jpg

Its possible.....that I will have to add a second #8 washer once my replacement trap door comes in. The metal flap might touch the wireframe. And HOPEFULLY, the second washer still allows enough vertical play to allow balls to enter the trap. I'm imagining its going to be close though. There isn't a lot of wiggle room between too much vertical movement and not enough.

But right now...what a difference this makes! When the trapdoor opened before, it was loud because It was hitting the wireframe and caused the whole station 3 building to shake. Now its much more muted when it opens.

Oh, and the washer is only attached with superglue. When I removed the #8 nut, it was surprisingly stuck to the coil stop, but I was still able to get it off. I would imagine the superglue is going to fail in the future after getting pounded by the plunger. I'm thinking solder would hold up to the abuse no problem?

Find out the depth needed with nuts/washers. Take an old flipper plunger and hacksaw of the desired size. The chunk will not flip in the coil as it is exact size. I've done this with great results on other pins.

That would be nice, though I don't have an old flipper plunger. I would have to be exact with the cut though....a washer is only a mm or 2? I wouldn't trust my hacksaw skills with that. I think I would go the solder route instead if I find the washer moves on me.

Or...next I'll try bending the bracket like LTG also suggested and see if that actually does anything.

Oh wait...after rereading your post...you are suggesting basically making a washer out of an old flipper plunger. I was thinking you were saying...taking that flipper plunger, cutting it to exact size to be used as the new coil plunger.

Anyway....the chunk you are talking about would still be able to 'fall over' in a coil sleeve. The #8 washers are a very close fit to the coil sleeve. In fact..probably tighter than a flipper plunger. Like this ->

20181230_001846 (resized).jpg

However...after thinking about it...I believe this washer really is a good solution. When I put in a nut, it wasn't near as tight, so it could fall over and then when the plunger hit it, it wouldn't flip back over, also due to its hexagonal shape.

With the washer...its a tight fit so when it falls over, it stays in the center of the coil sleeve, and...I dont' think it can even fall completely on its side because the plunger will hit it. Plus...I just tested it by dropping the washer into this coil sleeve vertically...it always falls flat on its face.

Thus, anytime I move the PF vertically, yeah...the washer might turn...but as soon as I put the PF back down, the coil goes in a vertical position, the washer will then rest flat against the coil stop no problem.