One of my tweeters is cracked or broken in some way making high pitched sound distorted. Exchanged one of the speakers before realising it was the tweeter.

Made it to Showdown and beat DIE. What a rush! I was literally sweating and shaking. Almost doubled my previous GC score. It was only the second time I've made it to Armageddon.

Yes, SIM card holds was on.

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I had a similar problem, but mine was with the wire. When you say you swapped the input wires, do you mean the ones that are soldered onto the speaker? If not, try moving those around to see if that helps. I had to zip tie one of the wires up to prevent it from bending and causing a problem. I have a spare wire from JJP in case it comes back.

Weird conclusion that has now twice happened to my DI phone.

Both times, my phone started to get this pink/red-ish hue on the screen. It was slight at first but then got worse and worse as the days went on. 2 weeks or so go buy, the phone screen looks TERRIBLE, almost entirely pink. And then....... it re-adjusts and goes back to its normal color.

This has happened twice now. The screen looks great. The picture on the phone is slightly lower (a few pixels) but other than that it looks like its old self again.

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this before, but I just want to make note of it.

I also recently bought a nib DILE. Came with cliffys and clear plastic on left inlane installed. Manual also included in box

Das anybody have good comparison pictures of the elements that differ from the standard to the le version?

I almost tend to the standard version because the lights are THAT bright, missing lights on the ramp would help the eyes a lot I think.

Here's a side by side video.

If you're worried about brightness, the ramp lights aren't going to make any difference at all. The Big Bang, Extra Ball, and Selfie flashes are all going to be super bright on both models.

I have the Standard. I purchased it second hand for a good deal and do not regret it. The only thing I'd really like from the LE is the ramp lights. I certainly wouldn't mind upgrading to the LE, but the Standard was such a good deal and I don't feel like I'm missing much.

Yeah

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I'm in the club now! Dialed In LE ordered today - should be here in the next 10 days or so.

As Ted from Roadshow is in Dialed In, I hope Red will also appear some time! Because my Dialed In LE will be right next to my Roadshow...

Wow, now that’s blowing it up! Nice score. My high is about four million less lol.

Need some help. Recently purchased #136 and yesterday the QED switch showed up as "stuck open" during the start up test. I pulled the glass and hit it a few times and it seemed ok. Turned it off and back on and now registers as"stuck closed" is this somethingI can troubleshoot or do I just need to replace the switch? Also, I've read this entire thread and appreciate all the tips to "dial in" the machine. This is the first game my wife will play.

Does it register during gameplay?

Are you talking about switch 48 - moving target hit? I’m not seeing QED switch in the manual. You should be able to adjust the standup target switch unless it’s really bent or broken.

Yes it is switch 48 and it does not register at all now.

Check leaf adjustment and wiring connected to the switch.

I believe 48 is just a regular stand up target that basically has two piece of metal (blades) that when touching close the switch. When not touching the switch is open. Go into switch tests and try wiggling/moving/activating the switch to see what it is doing. Most likely the gap between the blades just needs adjustment but make sure there are no loose wires or a broken blade.

Stuck open or closed? The switch was stuck closed on my QED. I took him apart and discovered the two wires were touching so the switch was always on. The wires get kind of squished in QED. I just rearranged the wires a bit and that fixed it.

It's odd because it was stuck open first and then stuck closed after rebooting. I will take it apart and see what I can find.

I just purchased Dialed In and all in on the fab and funny theme. The game has high energy and is on the upside of making you feel good, while making and taking the great satisfying shots found all over the place. The theme is great fun and the new code adds to the flow of the game with better balancing. Light show is marvelous. Truly a masterpiece of a pinball game. When you watch others play it, they have smiles on their faces instead of frustration. What makes this game work on all levels; is that it is so approachable no matter your skill level. The new code enhances all areas. If you think of it as a “Get Smart” style of a theme, which has plenty of disasters happening, along with slap stick humor, think you’ll have more fun playing. Who doesn’t like Maxwell Smart and agent 99?

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! A little bit of cleaning, and the tiniest amount of superlube grease made the squeak completely disappear. It was really irritating before!

Thanks for the advice, this was exactly the issue I had. Wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around them and solved the problem.

Received my NIB Dialed LE yesterday and so far it’s a big letdown. After 5 min in attrack mode it turned itself off with only the fans running. Switched the power off/on and all oke except the 27” monitor, dead as a dodo. Connected an external momitor to the DVi cable and got image. Tested the 12v connector going to the monitor and it gets 12v, so dead monitor. Contacted JJP support (36 min call from europe to US) and they will send me a new monitor coming monday/tuesday but that will take prob 2 weeks hoping the holidays won’t make it a lot longer.

Then I see that 2 inserts of the dialed in text next to the left slingshot are not showing the white color therefore not making all colors. So that board needs to be replaced. Filled in a tech request on the JJP site and now waiting for a responce.

And to top it off my shooter rod rings before the rubber tip hits the autolaunch metal. I know that I can adjust the shooterhouse but at the lowest point it still hits the metal....

I know that JJP will solve it all at the end but it’s not what I expected QA wise from a NIB machine. My hobbit and woz were perfect out of the box.

Now have to wait weeks before I can normally play it.

Really sorry to hear about your problems. JJP will make it right, and you will soon be playing an awesome game.

As for your shooter problems, please see my post here for an easy fix:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/124#post-4680953

It myst have had a rough shipping adventure at some point.... thats to bad but im sure you will b happy once its all figured out.

Thanks, will look into it tomorrow

That’s tough to think about. Why after 5 minutes would the machine die except the fans, then the monitor be dead and some lights on a board be bad? Maybe a surge of some sort? Or maybe the monitor just failed and shorted or surged back into the computer taking out the led’s? We’re you adding mods or doing anything when it happened? I’m not suggesting anything just wondering how a cascading failure like that might happen... and should be a few days not weeks to resolve - I’d call jjp or ping Lloyd to be sure things move along quickly and not rely on the ticketing system. Sorry man!

Didn’t do anything. Surge I doubt because I have another 5 pins and other electrical stuff (jukebox, TV, etc) in the same room and all are working fine.

Already got confirmation that de new Monitor and LED board will be shipped togther. It will be about 2 weeks because I live in europe and customs are not fast here.

Sorry to hear about your grief...especially given the location. Mine was playable, but took nearly 1 month to fully dial it in. Here's my post just in case you experience similar issues...https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96.

Good luck getting everything resolved. As others have said, JJP will take care of you.

snaroff

Next thing i would do would be to loosen all of the screws that hold the shooter housing in place. pull the bottom of the housing out, stick a flat washer between the inside of the bottom area of the housing and the cabinet itself. tighten the housing screws back down (starting with the bottom one). This will cause the shooter rod to tilt down slightly and should alleviate the issue of the c-clip hitting.</blockquote

Thanks for the fix, this did the trick!

I think it goes well.

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I dunno. I'm not a huge fan of the idustrial looking pull-out handles, especially how they contrast with the white cabinet beside it... Just sayin'.

Lets see your topper.

Who said anything about a topper?

Is it just me or do the slingshots feel weaker since the update? Am i correct that 60 is the strongest?

That took me a minute to get the joke. At first I was thinking what the hell is that guy talking about? Funny.

And, I think that AFM topper looks surprisingly pretty good on DI.

Anyone found any easter eggs in DI (apart from the Red Button)? Cows?

Oh, yeah, that AFM topper? That thing looks dank. Good job, Skyemont!

What’s the deal with the red button?

Here’s some things I’ve found regarding references to older Bally/Williams games.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-in-game-references-to-older-bally-williams-games

Thanks guys. My AFM is now sold but I did not want to sell the topper. I think these are very limited. Plus it looks cool. I have to still hook it up so that is a different story.

Been playing my DI for two weeks now and have some questions / remarks..

1/ what's the use of the upper playfield ? there are no switches on it, ok you can nudge it and use 'skill' to get the ball into the popbumpers but that's it.. looks like quite a big assembly with limited use. I'm thinking of just removing the upper playfield and have the pinball drop always into the popbumpers. Any thoughts ?

2/ Shouldn't timers stop when the pinball is locked somewhere ? When a hurryup is running at the quantum theatre but you shoot something else (phone scoop or lock a ball) then it'll show animations and keep the ball, meanwhile the hurryup keeps counts down and is timed out when a new pinball is released.
OK I get it, I chose not to shoot the hurryup and something else instead.. but still, watching it time out while I can't cancel animations at all and have to wait doesn't seem really fair ?

Btw any way to cancel the lock animation ? This game has soo much smooth flow, but when you lock a ball it needs to finish the animations, run the shaker, and only then put a new pinball in the shooter lane. This really stops the flow, the delay takes much too long imo..

3/ Does anyone have experience with pindemption and DI ?
I notice in the settings there are greyed out settings about setting it to a timed game.
Is pindemption just the same rules but on limited time ? Flippers are disabled when the fixed time runs out ?
Or is it more like Safecracker - a timed game but giving you the option to gain more time as you play well ?
Or even like the SC magic token game - totally different rules ?

They do feel weaker I thought it was just me. I figured either I was just being OCD about it or they did it on purpose to stop the couple people on here bitching about the slings throwing the ball down the outlanes. No biggie for me tho it does make the game a bit less challenging. I just beat the whole game again might be on its way out . Who wants to trade for a TNA plus cash? That should keep me busy for awhile .

1) That "upper playfield" aka the clear plastic annoys me. I need to shoot those pops for the hippy mode (forgot what its called) and the ball almost never falls in the hole like it's supposed to. I never thought about taking it out. That's not a bad idea.

2) Meh... I never had a problem with this. You can always restart the timer quickly/easily enough. It's not an issue for me.

3) nope.

Upper playfield has purpose on certain modes and can help when u need to lock balls .

we don't have useless aftermarket crap on top of our games.

I like the upper playfield, but I wish the drop hole was just a little bit larger.

Strange, mine goes in that hole about half the time. It gives super pop bumpers when it falls in for a short time.

Also, the Laseriffic topper for DI is really nice. I'll have one some day.

Yep if you nudge it goes in the hole half the time from my experience and has different pop bumper sounds bts super pops.

How does the upper playfield help when you need to lock balls?

1) It's also possible to nudge the game to get the ball to drop off the top of the plastic, thus setting up a feed to the upper flipper. Admittedly, you have to be pretty quick on the reflexes to influence the ball when it drops onto that area. With a steeply pitched game, there is even less time to react.
2) Most timers do stop when the ball is being held. The Hurry-Up rule is different, though. Think of it as "Hurry up and make the shot!' and not "Go ahead and make some other shot and then maybe decide to make the hurry-up shot later."
It takes two presses of both flippers to cancel the Lock animation.
3) Pindemption option is not available for Dialed In.

--Ted

Pindemption doesn’t exist yet for DI. It does for Hobbit and WOZ but not yet for DI. I'm editing my original post here correcting a mistake I made. I don't believe that Pindemption is in in the near future for DI. Sorry about that, I had thought it was. My bad.