(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 21 minutes ago by LTG
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There are 6277 posts in this topic. You are on page 124 of 126.
#6151 10 days ago
Quoted from clg:

Working from memory here... Did you check the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet by where the game power swtich is? It unscrews from the top of the silver box

You just beat me to it, yep there is a fuse there. Check that one being there seems to be no power at all.

#6152 10 days ago
Quoted from clg:

Working from memory here... Did you check the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet by where the game power swtich is? It unscrews from the top of the silver box

Yep just checked and looks fine. Starting to get nervous here...

#6153 10 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Yep just checked and looks fine. Starting to get nervous here...

Don't look, always use a DDM with continuity to be 100% certain.

#6154 10 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Don't look, always use a DDM with continuity to be 100% certain.

I think I am gonna call my techie...

#6155 9 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

I think I am gonna call my techie...

For the hell of it if you have one, the power cord is a very common cord used on computer's, DVR's etc.... If you have one try swapping the DI cord and try powering up the machine, just rule out the power cord itself didn't go bad.

#6156 9 days ago

I had one of the cables unplug from inside the cabinet from where the power comes in. Just lifting the playfield something caught on it. You might want to check there.

#6157 8 days ago

I added a beautiful HUO DILE to the collection last week. I noticed this grounding wire not connected to anything. I'm assuming it goes right on with the other there but don't want to connect it without someone confirming. Anyone able to help?

Also, anyone else have trouble getting the playfield back in place after lifting? It almost seems like the rails are installed too far forward, by about 1/2".

ef024e69-8be7-49f1-8683-4eb314bad4ed (resized).jpg
#6158 8 days ago

I can't help with the spare yellow connector but DI is notorious for being difficult to reseat.
Basically the tube with the wires going from the playfield to the backbox bumps against the back of the playfield.
Just give it an extra push and it will go just fine.

#6159 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Also, anyone else have trouble getting the playfield back in place after lifting? It almost seems like the rails are installed too far forward, by about 1/2".
[quoted image]

Did you remove the packing foam at the back end of the playfield during set up?

EDIT: Never mind. Just noticed you bought HUO not NIB. Sorry.

#6160 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I noticed this grounding wire not connected to anything. I'm assuming it goes right on with the other there but don't want to connect it without someone confirming. Anyone able to help?

Yes, it gets bolted on there. Turn game off. Remove the nut, slide it on, replace the nut. Tighten it.

LTG : )

#6161 8 days ago

Thanks Lloyd!!

Quoted from Nokoro:

Did you remove the packing foam at the back end of the playfield during set up?
EDIT: Never mind. Just noticed you bought HUO not NIB. Sorry.

Actually, I did have to remove that but it didn’t make putting it back in place any easier. I saw the notice to remove it but ended up putting it back on. When I had it off I managed the slide the pf off the rails and it was a nightmare getting it back out! Fortunately zero harm done in that process.

#6162 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Also, anyone else have trouble getting the playfield back in place after lifting? It almost seems like the rails are installed too far forward, by about 1/2".

When you go to set the playfield down and it is tough to get down (not just back), open the coin door and make sure that the wire loop from the coin door isn't holding it up. I had that problem and had to tie wrap that wire better. Also pull back the plunger a bit while you are lowering it as the tip might be holding it up a bit. The playfield is a tight fit all the way around - even the sides.

#6163 8 days ago

My TZ is just as tough to seat after lifting the PF. Must be a Pat thing

#6164 8 days ago

Thanks for the suggestions. I did have the door open and thought about the plunger since that’s common on some of my older games, but it wasn’t in the way. I think it really just is that cable tube in the back. We had to pull it to the side. It’s that final 1/2” to get it back in place that’s a true squeeze.

#6165 8 days ago

All my B/W games are easy as pie to seat. I contacted jjp about this and was told it was a design issue and is now considered as functional. It had something to do with clearance.

If you open the coin door and use the rails, its easier to seat.

It is definitely annoying.

As an aside, Capcom has the best pf access system.

#6166 8 days ago

I'm having an issue where the e-clip on my shooter rod is brushing against the top of my automatic plunger and messing up my plunges. I can loosen the shooter housing and move it back and forth but not up and down, so I'm having trouble correcting this. Anyone have this issue and know of a solution?

#6167 8 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

No the machine doesn´t start at all, nothing happens when switching on. Have checked the wall socket and it works. This might sound strange, but I believe the fuse might have looked like in the picture before this happened, I just didn´t change it as the game worked just fine. So my guess is that it is something else that´s wrong. What happened was that I started up the machine and after a couple of seconds it just shut down and won´t start anymore - zero power.

jaylar Have you spoken with Frank at JJP? I had the same issue, no power going to the game. Turned out the power supply crapped out...and let me tell ya, it was a bitch swapping it out.

#6168 8 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm having an issue where the e-clip on my shooter rod is brushing against the top of my automatic plunger and messing up my plunges. I can loosen the shooter housing and move it back and forth but not up and down, so I'm having trouble correcting this. Anyone have this issue and know of a solution?

You're playfield hooks may have bent down due to the weight of the playfield and shipping.

#6169 8 days ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

You're playfield hooks may have bent down due to the weight of the playfield and shipping.

Thanks. I've never had that happen before. What's the best way to adjust them or bend them back?

#6170 8 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

What's the best way to adjust them or bend them back?

They should be flat going up and down where the playfield/apron is. Best remove them to bend them if need be. Then they are easier to work on.

LTG : )

#6171 8 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks. I've never had that happen before. What's the best way to adjust them or bend them back?

Yeah, take them off and use a vice to get them back to square. Also, be sure to use the pf support!

#6172 8 days ago

Hmmm. The hooks seem ok, but the metal seat they sit in may be slightly off on the side near the plunger. I'm not sure how to remove or take care of that.

I came up with a lazy man's solution and added a small amount of weather stripping to lift that side just slightly (see last picture). So far it works like a charm. Anything wrong with this approach? Thanks for all the help so far!

IMG_0287 (resized).JPGIMG_0288 (resized).JPGIMG_0289 (resized).JPGIMG_0290 (resized).JPG

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#6173 8 days ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

jaylar Have you spoken with Frank at JJP? I had the same issue, no power going to the game. Turned out the power supply crapped out...and let me tell ya, it was a bitch swapping it out.

I´ve gone through all the fuses again and believe it´s the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet where the game power switch is. Gonna go buy a new one tomorrow. Just to be sure - is it a 5 A 250 V fuse and should it be slow or fast?

#6174 8 days ago

Picked up a DILE this morning. I have a lot to learn and read Without reading this whole thread (which I will) any quick tips for a new owner? This is my 1st JJP.

#6175 8 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

I´ve gone through all the fuses again and believe it´s the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet where the game power switch is. Gonna go buy a new one tomorrow. Just to be sure - is it a 5 A 250 V fuse and should it be slow or fast?

According to the manual if you are using a 5A 250v, it's a slow blow fuse 1.25" 3AG size

#6176 8 days ago

From my experience as a first time JJP owner. I found it best to play the hell out of it and seek answers to the questions that come up on the way. It’s a complex beast. Great journey. Enjoy. It just gets better the more you learn.

#6177 8 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

According to the manual if you are using a 5A 250v, it's a slow blow fuse. If you are using a 10A 125v, that also is a slow blow. It's the larger 1.25" size fuses

Thanks!

#6178 7 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. The hooks seem ok, but the metal seat they sit in may be slightly off on the side near the plunger. I'm not sure how to remove or take care of that.
I came up with a lazy man's solution and added a small amount of weather stripping to lift that side just slightly (see last picture). So far it works like a charm. Anything wrong with this approach? Thanks for all the help so far!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Next thing i would do would be to loosen all of the screws that hold the shooter housing in place. pull the bottom of the housing out, stick a flat washer between the inside of the bottom area of the housing and the cabinet itself. tighten the housing screws back down (starting with the bottom one). This will cause the shooter rod to tilt down slightly and should alleviate the issue of the c-clip hitting.

#6179 7 days ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Next thing i would do would be to loosen all of the screws that hold the shooter housing in place. pull the bottom of the housing out, stick a flat washer between the inside of the bottom area of the housing and the cabinet itself. tighten the housing screws back down (starting with the bottom one). This will cause the shooter rod to tilt down slightly and should alleviate the issue of the c-clip hitting.

I wouldn't recommend this as it will create ball spin, which will create other problems with the right loop/ramp.

#6180 7 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. The hooks seem ok, but the metal seat they sit in may be slightly off on the side near the plunger. I'm not sure how to remove or take care of that.
I came up with a lazy man's solution and added a small amount of weather stripping to lift that side just slightly (see last picture). So far it works like a charm. Anything wrong with this approach? Thanks for all the help so far!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looks like you have a bent lockdown housing. Looks like a factory QC issue to me as the latches should have bent before the entire housing, but who knows. You'd have to take that out and bend it straight.

The only issue with your solution is PF leveling. If your PF is level in relationship to the cab, that would work. I would pull it and fix it or contact JJP support to get a new one. Should't be too hard to fix if you have some shop tools.

#6181 7 days ago

Got a new fuse for the power switch today and now the game is working. All good!

#6182 7 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Looks like you have a bent lockdown housing. Looks like a factory QC issue to me as the latches should have bent before the entire housing, but who knows. You'd have to take that out and bend it straight.
The only issue with your solution is PF leveling. If your PF is level in relationship to the cab, that would work. I would pull it and fix it or contact JJP support to get a new one. Should't be too hard to fix if you have some shop tools.

I’m still level after my solution, but perhaps I should do what you say. How do I get the thing out? There are bolts through the front of the cab that hold it in, but the bolts have round heads and no grooves for a screw driver. I’m not sure how to turn them. I’m also not sure I have the tools for this so I may have to call JJP.

But perhaps since I’m level and have a solution that seems to work, I just leave it alone and watch it to make sure it doesn’t get worse . . . .

#6183 7 days ago
Quoted from tadowhere:

Picked up a DILE this morning. I have a lot to learn and read Without reading this whole thread (which I will) any quick tips for a new owner? This is my 1st JJP.

If it was a NIB game there's a ton that I would say, but judging by the way you wrote your post I'd say it's used, correct? If that's the case, most of the bugs and issues were already worked out for you. As far as settings goes, I would make it so sim cards carry over from ball to ball. I also have pinstadium in mine. It lights it up so nice and the QED guy makes the flashers go crazy. It's seriously awesome. If you're looking for a nice add-on, that would be the one I would recommend.

#6184 7 days ago
Quoted from MEuRaH:

If it was a NIB game there's a ton that I would say, but judging by the way you wrote your post I'd say it's used, correct? If that's the case, most of the bugs and issues were already worked out for you. As far as settings goes, I would make it so sim cards carry over from ball to ball. I also have pinstadium in mine. It lights it up so nice and the QED guy makes the flashers go crazy. It's seriously awesome. If you're looking for a nice add-on, that would be the one I would recommend.

Also all the key fixes are pinned at the top of the thread as key posts. It should take you
15 minutes to read

#6185 7 days ago

Yes it was used. Thanks for the info! I lifted pf to put cliffy's on and this dropped out of the left side into cab, any ideas on what it is/for?

IMG_1424 (resized).jpg
#6186 7 days ago

This is the trap door flap. They can break off.
Check to see if yours is broken off. It likely is, unless someone already replaced it and this was left in the machine. Contact JJP to get a replacement by getting the full trap door (not the full mechanism) with the flap already riveted on.

#6187 7 days ago

Just wanted to say I have this same issue, the hooks have never lined up and I have to slam the pf around to get it to settle. I’ll be following your search for a solution

Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. The hooks seem ok, but the metal seat they sit in may be slightly off on the side near the plunger. I'm not sure how to remove or take care of that.
I came up with a lazy man's solution and added a small amount of weather stripping to lift that side just slightly (see last picture). So far it works like a charm. Anything wrong with this approach? Thanks for all the help so far!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

#6188 7 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Just wanted to say I have this same issue, the hooks have never lined up and I have to slam the pf around to get it to settle. I’ll be following your search for a solution

Have you looked at your latch mechanism to see if it seems bent like mine? I’d be curious to know.

Right now, I’m leaning to my lazy solution with the weather stripping while keeping an eye on the latch mechanism unless anyone thinks I shouldn’t for some reason.

I’m also curious how I would even get the thing out given those bolts with the rounded heads. Is there a tool for those bolts?

#6189 7 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Just wanted to say I have this same issue, the hooks have never lined up and I have to slam the pf around to get it to settle. I’ll be following your search for a solution

If you mean when you seat the PF after raising it, the seating issue is a design quirk. There is no solution except to get used to finding a good way to get the PF seated. Open the coin door and use the rails to help.

#6190 6 days ago

So how good do you think the speakers are on DI? Any reason to upgrade?

#6191 6 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

So how good do you think the speakers are on DI? Any reason to upgrade?

No.

#6192 6 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

So how good do you think the speakers are on DI? Any reason to upgrade?

I had briefly considered this when I got the machine. I found that the aftermarket guys (Flipper Fidelity and Pinball Pro) don’t make speaker kits for JJP. Not sure why. Maybe JJP uses better quality speakers in their machines than other manufacturers?

I doubt that it would make that much of a difference anyway. It doesn’t have a great soundtrack like some of the music pins so I just stuck with the factory setup.

#6193 6 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

So how good do you think the speakers are on DI? Any reason to upgrade?

I've been told an external sub on Dialed In is a good upgrade for the audio. It's on my "to do" list.

#6194 6 days ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I've been told an external sub on Dialed In is a good upgrade for the audio. It's on my "to do" list.

In my book a Polk PSW505 per game is a basic pin ownership ground rule:
amazon.com link »

Certainly recommended for DI too.
I haven't felt the need to mess with the Dialed In stock speakers, and I've got FlipFids or PinPros in all of my older games.
Sheesh--at the default volume of 26, standing at the lockdown bar I'm more than good volume and clarity-wise, and I'd expect most folks would be too.

#6195 6 days ago
Quoted from PsychoPsonic:

In my book a Polk PSW505 per game is a basic pin ownership ground rule:
amazon.com link »
Certainly recommended for DI too.
I haven't felt the need to mess with the Dialed In stock speakers, and I've got FlipFids or PinPros in all of my older games.
Sheesh--at the default volume of 26, standing at the lockdown bar I'm more than good volume and clarity-wise, and I'd expect most folks would be too.

I second this - a Polk subwoofer on a DI adds something, but the speakers themselves are just fine.

#6196 6 days ago

I ordered a new bluetooth dongle and still get the error in test report. I really have no use for the dongle, just don't really like the error. It started when I unhooked the dongle to update to the newest firmware. I am sure the cable works as it has no problem updating firmware on a USB drive, just won't hook up to either the old dongle or a new one. Any help would be appreciated.

#6197 6 days ago

My hooks had problems the first time I got the playfield out. It took so much force I was concerned I was going to break the game. They were bent (almost fished hooked) after bending back it's easy to get in and out now.

It's a really heavy playfield it seems. I wonder if shipping is putting weight on the hooks when it is shipped vertically?

#6198 6 days ago

Anyone got the specs for the tweeters? I exchanged one of the speakers because I thought it was cracked, but seems to be the tweeter (doh!). The manual doesn´t say much about it.

#6199 6 days ago

A 10 inch Polk is more than sufficient
amazon.com link »
I also agree that a sub for every modern pin is almost requirement at this point, especially at that $99 price point. Completely worth it for DI as well. The bass drop when you complete one of the goals for QTMB is pretty awesome, and is a good audio indicator that you've completed something.

#6200 6 days ago
Quoted from JayLar:

So how good do you think the speakers are on DI? Any reason to upgrade?

They’re actually great sounding stock speakers IMO. You should DEFINITELY add an external sub though. I use big 12” subs on all my pins. They add a lot to the audio. And as a bonus, JJP games are the easiest to add subs on. The audio out jack on the PC can be “Y’ed” and sent to the sub. Easy Peasy.

Quoted from Yoxxy:

I ordered a new bluetooth dongle and still get the error in test report. I really have no use for the dongle, just don't really like the error. It started when I unhooked the dongle to update to the newest firmware. I am sure the cable works as it has no problem updating firmware on a USB drive, just won't hook up to either the old dongle or a new one. Any help would be appreciated.

Try connecting your BT dongle directly to an open USB port in the backbox and see if it’s recognized. That will tell you if it’s the dongle or the usb extender that’s the issue. My problem was the extender. And this problem began after the latest update also.

For those having playfield seating issues, my suggestion is to lower it down and then reach in through the coindoor. Grab the rails and push forward while using fingers/wrists/forearms to push back against the coindoor opening. The playfield should slide forward allowing the hooks to drop in place.

Junky

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