Major problem. Thought I'd post here before contacting JJP. A few days ago, I noticed that when the pin was turned on (not being played), the machine would shut down on its own (yes with the power switch on). Figured maybe a short somewhere. Lifted the playfield looking for any disconnected wires, but found nothing. Waited a couple of minutes powered it back on, and all seemed well. Played a game, no issues. Walked away and noticed about 5 minutes later, same thing, pin had no lights, nothing on the display etc etc. Turned the switch off. Tried turning it back on. When I turn it on, the light in the backbox flashes on for a second, then nothing. I'm thinking maybe a blown motherboard??

My DI LE came with two silver drones and one black drone instead of having a white drone in the mix. Anyone else have that? Wondering if it was a factory error. Not too concerned. Maybe it raises the value of my pin, like that stamp with the upside down airplane on it.

Maybe a bad white one was caught in testing and the tossed what they had available in there...

Damn, you have quite the collection.

Did you buy the DI CE #21? Or NIB?

You know what, I am sorry - I am getting confused with Houdini. It also has a small LCD on the playfield, but includes a ribbon cable-connected set of buttons which can adjust it- that’s what I was referring to

Bought the 21 with everything that was on it already it wasn’t a horrible deal compared to nib le and looks a hell of a lot better with the rad decals and the ce trim.

That’s kind of cool. Means each game is a bit different. I just noticed that one of my silver drones has a gold swirl on it and the other has a white swirl. So even the same color drones can be different from each other.

I have noticed from other pictures that the drone colors are random...mostly I see 2 silver with a black or white. Mine came with one of each. I have had 2 go bad and they have been kind enough to send a replacement to match.

Twice today, I’ve had the ball get wedged behind the trap door and under the playfield. I’ve owned the machine for a while and have never had the issue. I’m wondering if some kind of piece came off that stops the ball from going too far back where it doesn’t drop in the subway.

Anyone else had this problem?

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Settings are on the monitor - you need to pull the monitor out and then adjust from there (just like you would on a stock TV).

Nothing missing. Usually the ball drops into the bottom of the cabinet.

My cure : Holding the playfield up with my right hand, I gave the bracket holding the big coil a tug towards the front of the game. End of problem.

LTG : )

Mine came last week,but I haven't put them on yet.Did feathering the front edge of the protector work for you?

Haven't tried that yet. A bit hesitant removing them. Tried putting tape over the edge but didn't help.

On mine there were a few times the ball was stuck on the left lane. It wasn’t the Cliffy causing the issue though. The rubber ring around the slingshot was fat enough to hold the ball. I stretched the ring and this seemed to have made it slightly smaller which no longer held the ball. Thought you might want to try this.

Junky

OK, I´ll have a look at that thanks.

Anyone tried the plastic protectors from Mezelmods?
https://mezelmods.com/collections/dialed-in-pinball-mods/products/dialed-in-pinball-plastic-protectors?variant=46378502472

Are they worth getting? What´s the difference aesthetically?

I have them. I went with the Blue/Red kit. Blue on slingshots and red on lane guides. They add a little bit of color to the bottom of the playfield but they don't stand out much. If you are specifically looking at them you will see the difference they make, but if you aren't looking for it you probably won't notice they are there.

I had the same problem.Stretching the rubber ring only works for a game or two,and then the rubber returns to its original position.I ended up filing the inlane post,and now it's working like it should. After I filed it,I polished it with Mothers Mag/aluminum polish.

A few questions:

1) How do you stop MB from occurring after two balls only? Is there anyway to change the default setting so you don't need to manually press the two flippers right away?
2) What is the best way to get the SIM card - best shot?
3) Is the "subway" shot the jackpot ramp that you hit top right flipper to left ramp?
4) What does overcharge do?
5) Best way to get the phone scoop to shoot just a little more to the left?

Thanks

1) flipper cancel RIGHT away. I do not believe you can disable it
2) bank off of standups but really there’s no guarantee
3) subways are 2 Ramps and theatre
4) more points in activated mode
5) move the scoop I would think, or adjust coil power

I've had a LOT of success 2 ways:

1) Go to the theater to feed the upper flipper, and hit it when it's about halfway down the flipper.

2) Start a multiball and go nuts in the center of the playfield. One will fall in eventually.

I owned a Jurassic Park for 2 years and did nothing but play that game religiously, and really crushed those upper flipper shots. I became good enough to feed the T-Rex & hit the Orbit, but that took a TON of daily practice. I can get the sim card on command quite easily because of that game. I rarely play a game where I don't collect the sim card, so keep at it. It's do-able.

Finally received my topper from Mezel Mods.

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I think it’s way better than the factory one but I think too much yellow and orange for a blue game.

I understand they are winding production on DI to the last ones now. I had a deposit for one of the last run DILE machines, but cancelled out. $9200 versus buying another open box DILE for $8k. Not sure if I will kick myself later...they seem to be dropping bit by bit in value over time.

Nice!

They’ll be making Dialed In for years, just switching over to POTC for a while to get all the preorders out.

Wldnt say all those preorders... dont believe it sold a whole lot especially after the spinning disk gate.....

Yep … when I was there a couple of weeks ago, DI was just recently switched to their smaller assembly line and will probably be making 5 per day on that line per Jack. Jack also said that they would be winding down TH with another run this fall. They plan to startup WOZ again later towards winter too. My guess is that TH will end first. DI has no license, so they can keep making them for a very long time as long as they keep selling. When I was there, they were loading up shipping containers to ship DI's across the pond.

I hope they do so parts are always on hand if need be for this awesome game.

Dialed In is my favorite game! They have a real winner there

Yes, it has a led strip in the box that holds the acrylic glass in the topper. I'll try to post a pic later today with the light on.

Initially was disappointed with the slow pace of JJP but now realize some things like life are a marathon not a sprint, was glad to get my Woz built in 2017 many years on and hope Woz will continue to sell to new owners. Woz probably benefited by the delay of TH and DI got a boost in sales greatly by a delay in JJP PotC.

To build on this comment, I owned a WOZ a few years ago - I think it was my 2nd or 3rd machine(!). I could not appreciate it then so I sold it.. recently played a RR on location with updated code. WOW. My updated code allowed me to appreciate it a bit more . WOZ has been out what, 3, 4 years?

5 years, and they are still in production. I actually considered getting a new WoZ over a DI when I bought one a month ago. It's just an incredible machine, and by now all the small flaws and kinks have been worked out.

Only to derail the thread for this post, I asked Jack if he did his dream theme yet and he pointed to the prototype WOZ pin in his office. That pin has pre release code on it that can't be updated (because of the prototype hardware), yet it is a treasure to him. He has lots of WOZ stuff throughout the office. The vibe that I got is that they will still be producing them for a few more years if sales continue. The "reboot" to get WOZ back on the line late this year will have some updated CPU boards like DI (see, there's a DI reference here). He said that they secured their next 3 titles/licenses - but we heard that recently from other people too.

Now, back to DI ... Hopefully updated code is coming soon. ???

Awesome post. I love hearing that WoZ is sticking around for a few more years minimum and that they are already looking ahead at their next 3 titles!? Nice.

I am salivating for a code release for DI.

L@@K and admire its functionality and versatility! It can function as a mere glass holding a blood orange margarita or it can hold a beer within a pin-gulp caddy during intense game play or even function as a topper!

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I may be looking at a Dialed In LE this weekend. Does someone mind sparing me reading the 100+ pages of the club and summarizing potential issues and what to look for? Thanks in advance!

The trap door under the left ramp is the most common issue. Expect to have to adjust that at some point, it sticks open frequently. Fixing it is incredible simple though.

The other thing I can think of is to cut the Mylar away from the magnets as they protrude from the play field. Remove the magnet from underneath, then just take an X-acto knife and cut away the Mylar from the open hole (from below)

Also the little sign with the CRAZY BOB’s status is rotated weirdly on the game, so you can’t read it. It’s annoying but fixable; however is like that so it doesn’t cause a ball trap. Your call whether or not to address it

Others have mentioned messing with the screen colours and temperature, contrast, etc. I would recommend not doing that unless you are super familiar with how to dial in those settings - it can quickly make the LCD look worse if you don’t take the (long sometimes) time to get it perfect

If you are using those glasses as a topper, you must not be a "nudger" ... unless you glue them down pretty good.

Video would be very appreciated! How do you like it?

Take a look at the key posts at the front of this thread. That lists most of the issues that may need attention.

What did you do to fix the left ramp from not registering? Was the metal switch your problem or something else?