Dialed In
Jersey Jack, 2017My mechanic statue diverter arm isn’t moving high enough or low enough. The ball gets trapped because the arm doesn’t raise far enough and when the ball clear sequence happens the arm doesn’t move high enough for the ball to fit under or low enough to divert the ball.
Does anyone know a fix for how to adjust the mechanic diverter arm? Thank you for any help you can give.
Here's a couple tips I found from the Owners thread...
Quoted from LTG:Below the playfield is a rod that goes up and down, hooked to the arm. An offset cam on a motor pushes it up, and releases it back down with the help of a spring around the rod.
There is a threaded part in the rod that looks like a little leg leveler with a nut that rubs on the top of the cam. You can loosen the nut, and turn the leg leveler looking thing up or down, to adjust the diverter as needed.
I'd check that this moves up and down freely, and the leg leveler looking thing hasn't come loose and fallen off. If so, reassemble and find the spring and put it there too.
LTG : )
Quoted from check_switch_26:Check that the mechanism is properly work by using the Statue Diverter Test. (Full Menu->Tests->Device Tests->Statue Diverter)
Pressing ENTER in the test will run the motor. Verify the "Diverter Down" switch activates when the arm is in the down position. Run the motor for a while to make sure the arm isn't catching on anything.
I had a similar issue on my DI LE and discovered it wasn't anything underneath. In my case the culprit was the plastic mold of the mechanic's body, which covers the diverter mech, was impeding the full motion of her arm. As I was looking underneath the playfield and checking out the components mentioned above, I noticed there was some slight tension in the rod as I moved it up and down. By accident, I grabbed the plastic mold of the mechanic's body and moved it slightly and suddenly everything freed up! The rod and diverter now moved freely with no issues. But the plastic body mold wouldn't stay in the place I needed it to keep the diverter arm free. So I removed the two-tiered plastics to her right and loosened the two Phillips screws near the bottom of the plastic body mold. Then I was able to slightly rotate her body counter-clockwide just a little bit in order to free up the mech. Once in the right place, I slightly tightened those same two screws, but not completely so that there would be a little wiggle room to keep the body mold in place. During each step of reassembly, I re-tested the diverter to make sure it still moved freely. I've since played several test games and it's been working great. I've only had my brand new DI LE a week and now I'm happy that it's working 100%! So if the rod, spring, and set screw underneath the mech isn't the culprit, try my suggestion and that might solve your issue.
New DI owner here.
My experience was that there wasn’t any restriction of movement, just that the arm couldn’t get low enough. There were two problems. First (not pictured), the wireform was in the way of the black lifter tongue thingy. Loosening the ramp’s nylock nuts and scootching it toward the player a bit was needed.
Second (pictured): the elevator washer couldn’t get low enough when the cam was at the bottom of its travel. So I removed the washer above the hex nut and allowed the springs—there were two—to rest against the elevator washer instead. That 1/16” was all I needed.
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Scottsdale, AZ