Largo, FL
Quoted from boustrophedonic:Not so quiet here when the truck showed up... Rad-cals and PF protector look awesome!
What are Rad-Cals?
(Topic ID: 187553)
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Dialed In
Jersey Jack, 2017
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Quoted from iceman44:Hypocrites? Yep
Pfft. If this was Stern every crybaby out there would be screaming bloody murder
So we get to see how this evolves. Where is KPG?
Btw, I'm Darth Vader
Well thank god You're here to make sure all is fair in the world...carry on.
I love the game so far and just hit 100 games played. My only real complaint is whatever rubber they are using is absolute garbage. I had to replace 4 pieces already due to tearing and wear. With the amount of overlapping ramps and tight spaces, the best thing they can do is put something halfway decent in the game. Not sure what, but anything would seemingly be better than what's there now.
That leads into a second issue. I dropped a rubber down the phone slot, and got it with a pair of long tweasers....seemingly no big deal. That was until I went to play after, and the opto switch isn't registering. I tested it a few times, but am not getting anything. Opto switches are seemingly straight forward, unless I'm missing something. I pulled both out, and unlike others I have seen, one has what looks like a transmit LED and the opposite side looks like a piece of plastic. Is anyone aware if these are different optos than say the ones in the hobbit?
Quoted from TheLaw:Strange...they said above they use Marco balls, so you'd think they'd use Marco rubber which is good?
Doesn't seem to be Marco Rubber. On closer inspection, looks like maybe white silicone. It's kind of translucent. Does Marco sell silicone now?
Quoted from PinMonk:Doesn't seem to be Marco Rubber. On closer inspection, looks like maybe white silicone. It's kind of translucent. Does Marco sell silicone now?
Uff I hope it isn;t that shit. I don;t want to have to do a full re-rerubbering as soon as i (IF) get this thing.
Quoted from TheLaw:Uff I hope it isn;t that shit. I don;t want to have to do a full re-rerubbering as soon as i (IF) get this thing.
I don't know what it is, but I DO get Marco white rubber all the time (because it's the best). It's NOT Marco white rubber.
Quoted from Procrastinator:I love the game so far and just hit 100 games played. My only real complaint is whatever rubber they are using is absolute garbage. I had to replace 4 pieces already due to tearing and wear. With the amount of overlapping ramps and tight spaces, the best thing they can do is put something halfway decent in the game. Not sure what, but anything would seemingly be better than what's there now.
That leads into a second issue. I dropped a rubber down the phone slot, and got it with a pair of long tweasers....seemingly no big deal. That was until I went to play after, and the opto switch isn't registering. I tested it a few times, but am not getting anything. Opto switches are seemingly straight forward, unless I'm missing something. I pulled both out, and unlike others I have seen, one has what looks like a transmit LED and the opposite side looks like a piece of plastic. Is anyone aware if these are different optos than say the ones in the hobbit?
After digging a little bit more it seems all the opto switches coming off that board are dead. It's all 3 including theater opto, phone opto, and left orbit opto. Is there a way for me to test the board and see if it works? Any suggestions?
Quoted from Procrastinator:I love the game so far and just hit 100 games played. My only real complaint is whatever rubber they are using is absolute garbage. I had to replace 4 pieces already due to tearing and wear. With the amount of overlapping ramps and tight spaces, the best thing they can do is put something halfway decent in the game. Not sure what, but anything would seemingly be better than what's there now.
That leads into a second issue. I dropped a rubber down the phone slot, and got it with a pair of long tweasers....seemingly no big deal. That was until I went to play after, and the opto switch isn't registering. I tested it a few times, but am not getting anything. Opto switches are seemingly straight forward, unless I'm missing something. I pulled both out, and unlike others I have seen, one has what looks like a transmit LED and the opposite side looks like a piece of plastic. Is anyone aware if these are different optos than say the ones in the hobbit?
Quoted from Procrastinator:After digging a little bit more it seems all the opto switches coming off that board are dead. It's all 3 including theater opto, phone opto, and left orbit opto. Is there a way for me to test the board and see if it works? Any suggestions?
Did you do this with the game on? Sounds like you shorted something.....
Quoted from bigd1979:Did you do this with the game on? Sounds like you shorted something.....
That's the weird part, it was completely off. I thought maybe I just jostled something loose, but have ran the wires back to the board and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I'm going to look at it tomorrow with fresh eyes and try to troubleshoot it.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:So jealous you have to let me over to play. Your the only one in the area with a game
Sure, just send me a PM if you want to come over and give it a try.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:So jealous you have to let me over to play. Your the only one in the area with a game
there are two for sure on route in wisconsin with a 3rd one going out next week
currently
Limited Edition - Schweoglers Lanes 444 Grand Canyon Dr, Madison, WI 53719
Limited Edition - Sunset Bowl 333 W. Sunset Drive - Waukesha, WI - 53189
Quoted from Wickerman2:You sure? I popped white titans on all my EM's and they had noticeably MORE bounce...
I need to retract my statement -
You're right. I'm wondering if they changed their material between my first order and this one.
My latest order, placed beginning of the month, the flipper rubbers are deader than standard rubber. I'm going to post in their thread and see if anything's changed in the last 6 months. :/
Quoted from TVP:Jack said in the past JJP are using marco balls and marcos balls suck.
The best you can buy are the oh so shiny but I don't see them on pinballlifes website.
I thought the shiny pinballs were not compatible with games with magnets? So standard ball to standard ball... what is the preferred? They pretty much all seem the same to me, but I typically buy at shows.
Quoted from TheLaw:ha care to make a wager on that one?
I was half right. SW pro already for sale/trade. He just got it. My price was wrong but it hasn't sold yet either. 
Quoted from bigd1979:Did you do this with the game on? Sounds like you shorted something.....
Finally got to dig into it and I did short the right opto board. Not sure how exactly, but it looks like I left a small hook tool on the lip of the cabinet and when I pulled the playfield up, it made contact on the opto board. Rest assured it looks like complete user error and not a bad part or anything. Hopefully I can get one from jjp Monday so I'll be back in business.
I also have to compliment jjp and Lloyd (@ltg). I sent a message on a Saturday around noon, and within the hour Lloyd called me walking me through some of the first things to check. Just have to say I was super impressed and confirmed I made the right choice by purchasing JJP products.
Quoted from musketd:Yeah there is a dialed in le up for sale too also?
That was never the bet!!!!
Quoted from merccat:I thought the shiny pinballs were not compatible with games with magnets? So standard ball to standard ball... what is the preferred? They pretty much all seem the same to me, but I typically buy at shows.
Pinballlife oh so shiney are the best balls and are ok with magnets. The silverjet premiums from not good with magnets.
Quoted from KingPinGames:there are two for sure on route in wisconsin with a 3rd one going out next week
currently
Limited Edition - Schweoglers Lanes 444 Grand Canyon Dr, Madison, WI 53719
Limited Edition - Sunset Bowl 333 W. Sunset Drive - Waukesha, WI - 53189
And as those come off route, you know who to message. 
Quoted from TVP:Pinballlife oh so shiney are the best balls and are ok with magnets. The silverjet premiums from not good with magnets.
I have to agree on "OK with magnets" I have had problems with these getting magnetised before after a while when the balls still look good.
Quoted from TVP:Pinballlife oh so shiney are the best balls and are ok with magnets. The silverjet premiums from not good with magnets.
Thanks! Been wondering if there was a shiny option available that played nice with magnets. Will watch for them.
Quoted from clg:I have to agree on "OK with magnets" I have had problems with these getting magnetised before after a while when the balls still look good.
Well hrrmm... maybe not then? Guess I may have to get one set as a test. Last time I tried shiney balls (silverjets) they were great for 50-100 plays but after that started causing hangups, trough jams and other issues in WOZ.
Quoted from merccat:Thanks! Been wondering if there was a shiny option available that played nice with magnets. Will watch for them.
Well hrrmm... maybe not then? Guess I may have to get one set as a test. Last time I tried shiney balls (silverjets) they were great for 50-100 plays but after that started causing hangups, trough jams and other issues in WOZ.
They are way better than silver jets but will get magnetised. I have had a couple where it happened very quickly and others fine for a long time.
After the recent discussion on clearcoat chipping near the sim card hole I looked at my machine and sure enough I have a semi-circular chip on the sim card hole edge closest to the backbox that took some of the artwork silk screening with it that is about 1/4" in radius just to the right of the post. I put a ticket into tech support. Has anyone heard from JJP on when they may be shipping the protectors? I was going to put a little finishing epoxy that I use on my R/C sailplanes to seal the upper edge of the hole, but figured I would instead wait until I heard from JJP. I stopped playing the machine as the edge with the chip is ragged and I can't tell if there may be further delamination so I'm afraid of the damage getting worse until it is sealed down or protected from above.
Quoted from KingPinGames:there are two for sure on route in wisconsin with a 3rd one going out next week
currently
Limited Edition - Schweoglers Lanes 444 Grand Canyon Dr, Madison, WI 53719
Limited Edition - Sunset Bowl 333 W. Sunset Drive - Waukesha, WI - 53189
shit when did they put one at sunset bowl? thats 10 mins from my house. thank you kingpin
Quoted from n4297m:After the recent discussion on clearcoat chipping near the sim card hole I looked at my machine and sure enough I have a semi-circular chip on the sim card hole edge closest to the backbox that took some of the artwork silk screening with it that is about 1/4" in radius just to the right of the post. I put a ticket into tech support. Has anyone heard from JJP on when they may be shipping the protectors? I was going to put a little finishing epoxy that I use on my R/C sailplanes to seal the upper edge of the hole, but figured I would instead wait until I heard from JJP. I stopped playing the machine as the edge with the chip is ragged and I can't tell if there may be further delamination so I'm afraid of the damage getting worse until it is sealed down or protected from above.
Can you post a pic of this?
Quoted from cavalier88z24:shit when did they put one at sunset bowl? thats 10 mins from my house. thank you kingpin
this was installed about a week or so ago. there is also a launch party on saturday august 19th. tell your friends (pinball and non pinball)
Quoted from jar155:It's odd that pretty much everyone is having chipped clearcoat despite the test games taking much longer to show wear.
I agree. Not sure why this is happening. I have stopped playing at this time. Mine does not have damage and I want to keep it that way. JJP needs to have all games going forward with cliffys at every hole period. Just my thoughts.
The clearcoat and playfields are fine .....it seems to only be a issue at the sim hole which is bc of the way its designed apparently. Definitely sld had a protector from factory or the edge sld have been tampered like the phone scoop. This is similar to games like mb, afm where the hole wasnt tapered and the edge gets worn/chipped. Cliffy will have a full set available shortly .
Quoted from bigd1979:The clearcoat and playfields are fine .....it seems to only be a issue at the sim hole which is bc of the way its designed apparently. Definitely sld had a protector from factory or the edge sld have been tampered like the phone scoop. This is similar to games like mb, afm where the hole wasnt tapered and the edge gets worn/chipped. Cliffy will have a full set available shortly .
That's how it started on my Woz too, the Winkie and Castle scoops, then the Haunted Forest wear, after many plays though.
I disagree that its ok for chipping to occur out of the box and its not a good sign.
Poor design? Like you said, they should have done something about it before shipping, they had to know it was an issue with all of the time they had.
On the other hand, like you, I don't think its a huge deal, these pins are going to get beaten up as fast as they are and with 5 magnets flinging the ball all over the place, its the nature of pinball.
You better be prepared to expect wear, but chipping?
Quoted from jar155:I wonder if thicker clearcoat on production games makes it more brittle at the edges. Hopefully mine ships with a protector.
The issue is tbe sharp edge.... they tapered the front edge only but they sld of did it around all exposed edges like the phone scoop.....
Quoted from bigd1979:The clearcoat and playfields are fine .....it seems to only be a issue at the sim hole which is bc of the way its designed apparently. Definitely sld had a protector from factory or the edge sld have been tampered like the phone scoop. This is similar to games like mb, afm where the hole wasnt tapered and the edge gets worn/chipped. Cliffy will have a full set available shortly .
Yea, not sure why they didn't chamfer the edge, as it looks to be a big part of the problem.
Luckily a protector should be able to fully protect it, but kind of annoying to even have to deal with it.
Yup. Found it on mine too. Same exact spot everyone has been describing. I put some clear on it to protect it a bit and also created a ticket with JJP. They are sending out mylar for now. When I spoke with them last week, they didn't have an ETA on protectors. My game has about 60 plays.
Quoted from pinghetto:Yup. Found it on mine too. Same exact spot everyone has been describing. I put some clear on it to protect it a bit and also created a ticket with JJP. They are sending out mylar for now. When I spoke with them last week, they didn't have an ETA on protectors. My game has about 60 plays.
Right now I have cut my upper right flipper strength back to 15. But all together I have basically stopped playing. I will wait for cliffys. Mylar won't help that spot IMO.
Quoted from Skyemont:Right now I have cut my upper right flipper strength back to 15. But all together I have basically stopped playing. I will wait for cliffys. Mylar won't help that spot IMO.
I set my upper flipper to 15 before I played my first game. I figure with the clear I added, the mylar, and a protector, I should be just fine. I'm just glad I caught it in time. Could have been much worse. The rest of my playfield looks just fine.
Unlurking here to tell y'all that my DI LE is on the truck and scheduled for delivery today or tomorrow. 
Quoted from bigd1979:The clearcoat and playfields are fine .....it seems to only be a issue at the sim hole which is bc of the way its designed apparently.
I disagree based on experience. It seems like JJP and/or their playfield manufacturer is rushing the curing process. The paint should not be coming up with the wood, and that is what is happening here. When that happens, it means the paint has not properly adhered to the playfield, either due to improper surface preparation or not allowing proper cure time. This is also why some playfields (be they from JJP, Stern, CGC) have no chipping and some do....they are all made at different times, spend different amounts of time curing, etc. My DI has chipping anywhere you'd imagine it could be possible after 60 games: Both sides of SIM hole, right side of cell phone hole, heck....even that optional (easier) post hole at the left inlane is chipped.
I restore modern machines as a hobby. I've cleared System 11 machines, WPC machines, etc. I use OMNI 161 (a clone of the PPG clear that Vid recommends). While my machines are not totally immune to chipping, it takes much, much longer to occur. If I can get it right, I can't see how manufacturers with far more professional, higher-end setups cannot do the same.
Quoted from mrgregb123:I disagree based on experience. It seems like JJP and/or their playfield manufacturer is rushing the curing process. The paint should not be coming up with the wood, and that is what is happening here. When that happens, it means the paint has not properly adhered to the playfield, either due to improper surface preparation or not allowing proper cure time. This is also why some playfields (be they from JJP, Stern, CGC) have no chipping and some do....they are all made at different times, spend different amounts of time curing, etc. My DI has chipping anywhere you'd imagine it could be possible after 60 games: Both sides of SIM hole, right side of cell phone hole, heck....even that optional (easier) post hole at the left inlane is chipped.
I restore modern machines as a hobby. I've cleared System 11 machines, WPC machines, etc. I use OMNI 161 (a clone of the PPG clear that Vid recommends). While my machines are not totally immune to chipping, it takes much, much longer to occur. If I can get it right, I can't see how manufacturers with far more professional, higher-end setups cannot do the same.
Very good points. My dialed in has about 200 plays. It looks perfect. Maybe mine cured with the proper amount of time. Can u post pics of your issues?
Quoted from mrgregb123:I disagree based on experience. It seems like JJP and/or their playfield manufacturer is rushing the curing process. The paint should not be coming up with the wood, and that is what is happening here. When that happens, it means the paint has not properly adhered to the playfield, either due to improper surface preparation or not allowing proper cure time. This is also why some playfields (be they from JJP, Stern, CGC) have no chipping and some do....they are all made at different times, spend different amounts of time curing, etc. My DI has chipping anywhere you'd imagine it could be possible after 60 games: Both sides of SIM hole, right side of cell phone hole, heck....even that optional (easier) post hole at the left inlane is chipped.
I restore modern machines as a hobby. I've cleared System 11 machines, WPC machines, etc. I use OMNI 161 (a clone of the PPG clear that Vid recommends). While my machines are not totally immune to chipping, it takes much, much longer to occur. If I can get it right, I can't see how manufacturers with far more professional, higher-end setups cannot do the same.
Good insights, thanks for sharing.
Honestly, I prefer the types and style of clear they used during the '90s. Today's clear is so blasted thick. It feels like the ball glides on the clear rather than rolls these days. It's something I have adapted to, but I just prefer the older clearcoats.
Quoted from mrgregb123:I disagree based on experience. It seems like JJP and/or their playfield manufacturer is rushing the curing process. The paint should not be coming up with the wood, and that is what is happening here. When that happens, it means the paint has not properly adhered to the playfield, either due to improper surface preparation or not allowing proper cure time. This is also why some playfields (be they from JJP, Stern, CGC) have no chipping and some do....they are all made at different times, spend different amounts of time curing, etc. My DI has chipping anywhere you'd imagine it could be possible after 60 games: Both sides of SIM hole, right side of cell phone hole, heck....even that optional (easier) post hole at the left inlane is chipped.
I restore modern machines as a hobby. I've cleared System 11 machines, WPC machines, etc. I use OMNI 161 (a clone of the PPG clear that Vid recommends). While my machines are not totally immune to chipping, it takes much, much longer to occur. If I can get it right, I can't see how manufacturers with far more professional, higher-end setups cannot do the same.
Not rushing anything, coming from Germany in crates. Plenty of cure time.
Quoted from bigd1979:The clearcoat and playfields are fine .....it seems to only be a issue at the sim hole which is bc of the way its designed apparently. Definitely sld had a protector from factory or the edge sld have been tampered like the phone scoop. This is similar to games like mb, afm where the hole wasnt tapered and the edge gets worn/chipped. Cliffy will have a full set available shortly .
I received my game last week July 19th.
Mylar in pops, drone magnet and slings area. Built 7-7-17. Starting last weeks production the sling mylars are now removed/unused and both scoop holes added and also one added by drain trough at bottom between flippers. This is being sent out as a 3pc sheet per request through ticket for prior production games. The 2 hole metal protectors are soon arriving and will be available soon. Pat designed the game and with no metal scoop protectors. It's on him, not JJP.
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