and these are the backbox keys that are inside the coinpurs...er coin door?

EDIT: Never mind: mine as the same can't open the header...must be some obvious trick in the instructions we never read

Is it possible to nudge the lock with a credit card between the crack of the door while turning the key.
I'd also fiddle with the lock aggressively while trying to slide the just a hair in and out of the lock while turning both ways. Sometimes these locks get finicky.
Also sometimes a lock is installed wrong so you have to turn clockwise to open.

The backglass is in SUPER TIGHT. You probably need to fiddle with the backglass up and down a little while turning the lock. It took me a few tries to unlock it and a few more to get it locked again. Locking it took more than getting it unlocked. I was afraid I'd break it!

Whoops! I thought it was the coin door.

Can't you just take out the screws that holds the lock in place and than pull the whole lock out.
I just did that recently with my tmnt. Than you can see what's going on with lock itself.

No. You can remove the screws holding the speaker assembly in place and look at things. Be careful so the glass doesn't slide forward and fall out.

LTG : )

This^^^^

Took me a solid 5-10 min to open. Was about to give up. I started shimmying the back glass and pushing on it and finally got it. It also unlocks clockwise. I think you can remove a few pieces of the foam that hold it in place. I'm not sure, but I swear I heard them say the foam was there for shipping and can be removed. I think it was to keep It tight during shipping, but is easily removable.

I had the same issue, thought I was given the wrong keys. Took me over an hour to unlock it. Basically, I had to remove the two security screws, pull the entire speaker panel out (be careful, wires are still attached), remove the screw holding the locking mechanism on and then reinstalled it. Loosening the security screws should ultimately allow the key to turn. I couldn't understand exactly what was wrong, but reinstalling the lock fixed the issue. I alerted JJP to the issue, seems I'm not the only one. No foam on my game.

Looking at it more closely, it seems like the lock bar is slightly too long on the one here and instead of securing the top of the glass so you can't lift it, it's going behind the top and snagging the trim. I literally had the top trim pull off because it was caught in the bottom of the "L" on the lock bar.

I have to give this a shot, I cannot get into my back box after messing with it for an hour.
Any pictures someone can provide? Or just pull out the speaker panel and give it a look?

Unscrew the speaker panel. Careful of the wires.

LTG : )

And HOLD the speaker panel once you remove the screws, or have someone else hold it so you can stay with the glass and keep it steady.

Thanks guys, waiting for the wifey to get home for an extra set of hands and will give it a shot.

Details matter....

Why doesn't JJP fix this on the line. The lock bar is just a hair too long. Moving the drilled hole for the lock up 1/8" or shortening the bar by the same will fix the issue.

They have. Some games got out before it became apparent.

LTG : )

Ah! Good to know!

I picked up one of the early 6/2017 Dialed In LE's the other day and had to take the two speaker panel screws out as mentioned.
Here is a pic of what I saw when opened. Is there a pic or a service bulletin online that will explains how this should look/fix?
Glad I found this thread about taking out the two speaker screws as that was the ON:Y way the backglass was coming off.

IMG_20180916_121940 (resized).jpg

I had the same issue when I first received my pin.
Instead of trying to bend out the latch as some had recommended, I called JJP and Frank (in Service Support) sent me a new lock & latch.
I would give JJP a call.

Thanks. I will call or email.
I'll pull the existing lock latch out while I have it apart.

I also had the same issue and solved it the same way. It wasn't difficult but an irritating PITA.

I took the lock out of the speaker panel.
Screwed the speaker wood panel back on and still couldn't get backglass in place still. Would not clear the bottom lip.
Loosened the 2 screws and still struggled with it. In fact gave up for now till I find out what the issue is. Does the revised lock cam mech take care of that?

I was told I might need to trim some wood of the top cutouts of the speaker baffle box to get it to fit more easily since mine as a very early game.
Anyone else have to do that? Mine measures 1". JJP says it should be 1.25"...Skinnier tape is mine now. Thicker tape showing 1.25" is what JJP states it should be.
IMG_20180917_105741 (resized).jpgIMG_20180917_105758 (resized).jpgimage3 (resized).jpeg

Me. I was one of the lucky ones.

LTG : )

Lloyd, I found a way to manipulate the backglass on and off without trimming the wood.

For now, the lock mechanism has been taken out, awaiting the modified one from JJP.

When I replace the glass on the game, I lift as high as it can go, then i attach a suction cup top center right below the speaker bar and pull the glass at the top towards me as I keep lifting. It works!

I probably will still do the wood modification eventually.

Cover stuff up to prevent dust getting into things. Dremel, 5 to 10 minutes. Done. Clean up. Enjoy.

LTG : )

Thanks for all of the info in this thread, it helped me out a lot. I was trying to get into my backbox for the first time on my "new to me" DILE #324.
I couldn't budge the backglass even though I had no trouble rotating the backbox lock.

In my case the problem turned out to be that the monitor was sitting in front of the latch on the left side of the backbox, which pushed it tight against the backglass.
I had to unscrew the speakers to get it out, and then noticed that the screen latch was bent on the left side.
That also explained why my screen was slightly crooked behind the backglass.

Not sure how many other people are still buying used DILEs, but if your having problems getting in the backbox for the first time, try checking to make sure your monitor is latched correctly on both sides.

I did not need to remove any wood as CUJO showed in his picture, or need to remove the foam padding on the display.
I only have 1" of cutout, but my backglass slides in easily when I have the monitor latched correctly on both sides.

While I was in there, I moved the Bluetooth USB dongle to an open connector on the motherboard to free the front USB connector for a WiFi dongle for the 1.75 update. I hope this helps the next pinsider out.

DILE-ScreenCrooked (resized).jpg

DILE-LeftScreenLatchBent (resized).jpg

DILE-RightScreenLatchNormal (resized).jpg

DILE-ScreenStraight (resized).jpg

DILE-BluetoothDongleRelocated (resized).jpg

Smart move on moving the Bluetooth dongle to the open USB port on the motherboard. I'm going to follow your lead.
Let me know how the 1.75 update looks and if there is anything exciting "happening" now that your DILE is connected to the outside world.

Having a similar issue and struggling so time to revive this thread. I’ve snapped the bottom tab plastics almost all off as it’s almost glued in on my WOZ. The key lock turns freely and is definitely unlocked. The back glass just feels like it’s super tight at the bottom. The top however has a small amount of play. Where do I go from here?

image (resized).jpg

I have suction cups I use for removing playfields. It would be good for this use as well. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ZUOS-Powr-Grip-suction-Granite-Capacity/dp/B07HNKBCS3

Thanks, I’ll give this a try