DH playfield Clear coat...achieved.


By Ballsofsteel

5 years ago


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  • 27 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Hammerhead1550
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#1 5 years ago

finally.

after 3 weeks of preping, wood repairs, etc, clear coating, wet sanding, buffing, etc..

I"M DONE! i used varathane poly clear. next step now will be playfield swap with my current thrashed out pf. not bad for my first pinball clear coat (on a nice playfield i was sweating bullets at times). had to do some magna save wood repairs as well (seems it is a common DH pf wear). here she is;

1st pic is a cleaned/preped before with 0 clear left as you can see (with dimples even), and elevated inserts; (the middle pf pic)

2nd pic is over head finished

3rd pic is side shot of clear

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#2 5 years ago

Nice work. Love DH is a under rated pin. It will play awesome cleared.

#3 5 years ago

and one more;

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#4 5 years ago

DH will play much better now with an awesome CC'd playfield.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from PinWiz17:

It will play awesome cleared

ya i'm ready for a fast action dirty!!! i think i have 8 pieces of mylar currettly covering inserts that are no more (broken pf glass chewed up most the inserts i figured when i bought the machine because i was cleaning glass out of it for a week). its like christmas...waiting for my 'new' dh gameplay.

#6 5 years ago

I'd love to find this game. Another underrated game that get no love.

#7 5 years ago

Looks pretty! Nice work mang.

#8 5 years ago

nice work. it is a lot of work to get it right.

#9 5 years ago

thanks guys, ya its a lot of fine wet sanding for sure, and patience with coats of clear.

i forgot to thank whrsoncestood for all his guidance and previous posts regarding clear coating a playfield. his incredible hulk and flash are insane!!!!! good luck on your current project.

#10 5 years ago

Great work your doing there. That things looks as smooth as the frozen pond that could almost be outside that window. Nice winter project and you have been busy.

#11 5 years ago

Great job Balls! That snow looks mighty cold....

#12 5 years ago

Glad I was able to help! Looks great. Deffinetly want to play one of these some day

#13 5 years ago

Looks awesome!

Doesn't it have a clear / Diamond Plate already? Did you have to sand that off first?

I just got some board work done on my DH to resolve a resetting issue. Plays/looks awesome now.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Doesn't it have a clear / Diamond Plate already? Did you have to sand that off first

i don't think it's a diamond plate, couldn't find anything anywhere stating it was. i think its a re-import from europe though, they're is some finnish? dutch? on a sticker under the playfield. there wasn't really any clear left to sand in the high ball areas, mainly the non traffic areas only.

what was the diagnosis on your board? just interested, more than likely i may have to deal with it sooner or later (if it hasn't already been done).

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

Rascal_H said:Doesn't it have a clear / Diamond Plate already? Did you have to sand that off first
i don't think it's a diamond plate, couldn't find anything anywhere stating it was. i think its a re-import from europe though, they're is some finnish? dutch? on a sticker under the playfield. there wasn't really any clear left to sand in the high ball areas, mainly the non traffic areas only.
what was the diagnosis on your board? just interested, more than likely i may have to deal with it sooner or later (if it hasn't already been done).

Well, first I had to replace the bridge rectifiers. I guess they dry out and get faulty after a number of years. That was causing resetting when both flippers were hit. Thought that solved everything but then I started to get resetting out of nowhere after long game times. I took the board to my guy and he found the voltage was a little low. I think he replaced some resistors and got the voltage upped closer to 5volts. Haven't tested a ton yet but I think it's 100% now.

#16 5 years ago

Looks great! thanks for sharing.

#17 5 years ago

Yes, DH has diamondplate. All the games already had a clearcoat.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Yes, DH has diamondplate

supposedly so does my DM? i don't see any proof of it, i've heard that some machines received the diamond plate and others didnt'. i'll have to post pics of my original DH pf once i pull it out of the cabinet. whenever i get around to that..lol

#19 5 years ago

looks very nice
how many coats do you think it took?

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

johnwartjr said:Yes, DH has diamondplate
supposedly so does my DM? i don't see any proof of it, i've heard that some machines received the diamond plate and others didnt'. i'll have to post pics of my original DH pf once i pull it out of the cabinet. whenever i get around to that..lol

You heard wrong. All DH and DM had diamondplate coatings from the factory. All WMS games after the proto and sample T2s had diamondplate.

Clearcoat isn't a silver bullet. Any mass produced product can have quality problems. Poor maintenance can cause damage.

#21 5 years ago

Good job mate, that thing will look awesome when installed.

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

All DH and DM had diamondplate coatings from the factory.

thanks for squaring that up for me.

Quoted from HELLODEADCITY:

looks very nice
how many coats do you think it took?

10-14 coats, seriously. i'd do a light one, wait 1-2 hours, then another. then either sand, or add a light 3rd depending on how i felt it filled/settled in. i wouldn't sand though until at least 8-12 hours after 2-3 light coats to let dry accordingly.

thanks again for the compliments, just need a rotissorie table. ugg

#23 5 years ago

That looks good! You cleared with "rattle cans?" So how long for it to be populated and ready for play? Post some pics up during that process and thanks for sharing! Whatever way you cleared you did a great job!

#24 5 years ago

The factory finish dulls down over time. A good buff with an abrasive will help - 2000 grit sandpaper perhaps. You don't want to go too abrasive, or you'll cut through what's left of the diamondplate and get to the ink and through it.

Or, perhaps the Treasurecove polishing system would work well, too.

If the playfield didn't have a clearcoat on it, the ink would start to discolor and it'd be much more heavily worn.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

The factory finish dulls down over time

i agree 100% john. so much of the clear coat was gone on the high ball traffic areas that they were becomming dimpled and 1/3 of the inserts were raised. after the initial sanding before clearing i noticed i was sanding down the dimples almost to the color like you mentioned so i did so very lightly, and actually didn't need much sanding at all where the clear had worn down. i could have sworn i read somewhere Black Rose was saying he saw 'diamond plate' printed on the side of one of his DM pf's. that's why i was hesitant to think my DM and DH had them, i didn't see a print anywhere. thanks for the information.

Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:
That looks good! You cleared with "rattle cans

ya i used 2 to 3 spray cans varathane poly clear coat gloss. hard to find, only a few places carry it (in wyoming anyways).

7 months later
#26 5 years ago

finally got the DH swapped out. 1st pic is new pf being populated, 2nd is the old pf during dismantling. plays and looks great. thanks to my bro ffej knar for help and rot table;

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#27 5 years ago

I think the Diamond Plate was sprayed on thicker for different production runs depending on who made the playfield. (like paint jobs on cars) My CFTBL has a really nice thick smooth finish, but a friend of mine had one of the hot pink versions, and it had planking and looked like it had hardly any coating on it at all. I have had 2 DM machines, and both of them had a nice thick and smooth finish on them.

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