Hakko FR-301

Worth every penny.

Always a chance a previous repair used a higher temperature solder.

LTG : )

I've successfully used "chip quick" low temp solder alloy on difficult to remove components in the past.

700-800 is a totally normal temperature for circuit board work. Higher temps are ok too, but you just have to be more careful as you cant leave the iron on the part for as long.

GI shouldn't use a bridge?

You'll need a high temp iron and something better than wick to remove that though

I think the detail needed is what kind of iron/tip/flux/solder are you attempting to use.

The tip type, recovery time of iron, temp, etc are all key on a large plane lug like this.

those tracks are HUGE right there. its probably a temperature dissipation thing. Get a fatter desoldering tip on there and up the temperature. If new solder does not flow nicely then its not hot enough to vac desolder.

I will dual wield at times to get stuff like this desoldered. Use the pen iron and the desolder gun in both hands after adding more fresh solder to get it hot enough the solder liquidizes and you can suck it off.

I have been there before! A large tip (greater mass) was what helped the most. I almost brought a second iron into the mix, but that wasn't necessary after I used the biggest tip I had.

My guess is you have a low wattage iron. You need at least a 50 watt iron for a job like this with a good tip. Spend a little cash and get a decent one. I have the analog version of this one. Works great! It is hard to burn up the tip on a Weller.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J/ref=dp_ob_title_hi

Too much force removing?

That is still certainly repairable.

Silly idea here... Dremel the BR into quarters, and then you can heat each pin and pull with pliers from the other side while the solder is heated.
(No clue how tough it is to saw a bridge rect.)

br2 (resized).jpg