(Topic ID: 243561)

Desoldering issues


By Snowball

62 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 61 days ago by Timerider
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 62 days ago

So I have been doing maintenance on my Flash Gordon since it was blowing the F1 fuse (G.I.) on startup. I was able to trace it to bridge rectifier 1 which is fine and dandy.

So here comes my problem I can not get this thing off the board for the life of me. I've tried adding solder and using a wick too many times now and it won't budge. I can't cut the pins because it is right up against the board.

Any suggestions?

PS. Sorry for the shitty looking board. Not the first time it has had work.

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#2 62 days ago

Hakko FR-301

Worth every penny.

#3 62 days ago

Always a chance a previous repair used a higher temperature solder.

LTG : )

#4 62 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Always a chance a previous repair used a higher temperature solder.
LTG : )

I'm more than sure this is part of the issue but I'm already using temps that scare me for board work. (700F+) The previous owner had a tendency to use lead free.

#5 62 days ago

I've successfully used "chip quick" low temp solder alloy on difficult to remove components in the past.

#6 62 days ago
Quoted from Snowball:

I'm more than sure this is part of the issue but I'm already using temps that scare me for board work. (700F+) The previous owner had a tendency to use lead free.

700-800 is a totally normal temperature for circuit board work. Higher temps are ok too, but you just have to be more careful as you cant leave the iron on the part for as long.

#7 62 days ago

GI shouldn't use a bridge?

You'll need a high temp iron and something better than wick to remove that though

#8 62 days ago

I think the detail needed is what kind of iron/tip/flux/solder are you attempting to use.

The tip type, recovery time of iron, temp, etc are all key on a large plane lug like this.

#9 62 days ago

those tracks are HUGE right there. its probably a temperature dissipation thing. Get a fatter desoldering tip on there and up the temperature. If new solder does not flow nicely then its not hot enough to vac desolder.

I will dual wield at times to get stuff like this desoldered. Use the pen iron and the desolder gun in both hands after adding more fresh solder to get it hot enough the solder liquidizes and you can suck it off.

#10 62 days ago

Boards that have large copper foil that is both sides of the board can be a real pain. I was in electronics repair for 34yrs and used about every form and fashion of solder removal, and none were great on boards like in this thread. I would recommend to destroy the bridge with suitable means, big diagonal cutters, dremel ect, then pull out one lead at a time, then clean the old solder off with wick or other means. Once the old bridge is off there it's much easier to clean the old solder off.

#11 62 days ago

I have been there before! A large tip (greater mass) was what helped the most. I almost brought a second iron into the mix, but that wasn't necessary after I used the biggest tip I had.

#12 62 days ago

My guess is you have a low wattage iron. You need at least a 50 watt iron for a job like this with a good tip. Spend a little cash and get a decent one. I have the analog version of this one. Works great! It is hard to burn up the tip on a Weller.

amazon.com link »

#13 61 days ago

Alright so after much work and much cleaning, I think I'm screwed.

I managed to loosen the bottom left and top right in the picture but the board damage on the other two is a bit much I think. They are not loose either.

My iron is not the issue. I run an edsyn 951sx a little old but it works. I did switch to a larger tip which did help as I was able to get the two I did loose.

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#14 61 days ago

Too much force removing?

That is still certainly repairable.

#15 61 days ago

Silly idea here... Dremel the BR into quarters, and then you can heat each pin and pull with pliers from the other side while the solder is heated.
(No clue how tough it is to saw a bridge rect.)

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