If your gonna do board work buy a hakko desoldering gun. It's a one time expense and it could save you damaging a expensive board.

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I used the cheap $20 option on this board, multiple chips, once you have done a few, they come pretty quick and easy, IMO.

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I was like you: I wanted to do board work, and even became reasonably competent and ultimately successful (rebuilt Sys6 driver and sound boards and a few power supplies) using the $20 bulb job, but man... it was a pain. And there was no way I could ever think of salvaging an IC using the thing.

A while back there was an open box deal for the Hakko FR300 for like $200.

I wish I had bought it sooner! Used to take me 10 or 15 tedious minutes with the bulb just to get a 40-pin IC removed. For all the reasons you mentioned. And no matter how clean I kept the board, the suspect IC was always garbage afterward. Just too many chances for the one-off stubborn pin or fat grounding plane to wreak unexpected havoc. And the more I'd attack the stubborn spot, the more anxious I'd be about potentially damaging the pad or lifting a trace. Ugh.

So. My FIRST TIME using the Hakko, I zipped a 40-pin PIA out in like two minutes... and was able to re-use it! And instead of placing an order for other random suddenly-needed ICs and waiting, I found them on a scrap board, salvaged them, and installed them in the game I was working on. It's truly a great feeling! Just a few more repairs like that and this thing will pay for itself in both saved time AND reclaimed parts.

Heck, I might even be able to safely handle the fragile hairline IC traces on late Sys11 and WPC boards too (plenty of folks have had disasters using irons on those boards - see "NVRAM installs gone wrong").

Does that make it easier to decide?

Yes, the gun is worth it. I love my Hakko.

doing through hole repair on even the semi regular is a fools errand with out a proper vacuum desoldering gun.

Yes. Either the joint did not get hot enough (equally) and/or there was not enough vacuum.

When my gun is in perfect working order, ICs and sockets will just fall out of the pcb.

If you have ever used a hakko, this wouldn't even be a question.

I have a Hakko FR300, it works great on some boards but on others it doesn't, for the life of me I can't get the chips off of a cpu. There really isn't a good video either. The only advice I can give you is nothing is safer than cutting the legs off and removing them one by one. I then use a solder sucker to clean the holes. I always start off using the Hakko but once I notice it's not cleaning the holes, I don't temp faith because it will lift the pad. Another advice alway put some Rosin core solder and try and keep the gun off the board, a little contact is ok. I can't tell you how many videos I've seen where the gun is actually making full contact on the board and then the user is rotating it in a circular motion...this will most definitely lift the pads on WPC and Whitestar systems.

First, you will need a tip that is appropriate for the component that you are desoldering. I use three different sizes--one for .100" components and headers, one for .156" headers. and one for smaller components, but that doesn't get as much use.

1) Touch the leg of the component you wish to desolder with the inside hole of the tip of the desoldering iron and let it heat up *without* touching the PCB. The solder should start to melt in 3-5 seconds or so.

2) Touch the PCB with the tip of the iron while the leg of the component is inside the tip, pull the trigger, and move the gun's tip around in a circular motion using the leg as a pivot point. This step should take no more than one second. Pull the tip away from the PCB, keep holding the trigger for another 2-3 seconds to clear out the barrel, then release.

3) If the component's leg is not free of solder, add fresh solder and try again. Sometimes old solder is not always cooperative.

If you are pulling pads off the board, lower the temperature.

Is there a specific model you recommend?

I started out the same way. I got frustrated with that very quickly.

I'm using a Hakko FR300 with three different sized tips. The cleaning rods and drill bits are necessary from time to time, as the tip and barrel tend to get clogged with old solder. Be sure to get plenty of filters as well.

Desoldering is a breeze, and even though the up-front cost was a little pricey, it saves me an incredible amount of time and effort. Once you start using it, you won't want to go back to anything else.

Things i see people new to desoldering do.

1st. Rub the tip against the pcb forcefully. This will lift the pad. Touch the tip to the component lead and let the solder transfer heat. You want to do as little moving around against hte pad as possible.

2nd. Not letting the solder fully melt / too cold of temps. Remember the solder must melt all the way through the PCB and to the top side of the board. Don't pull the vac trigger early and then forcefully remove components. That is how the plated through holes get ripped out.

3. Pointing the gun at the work bench. Gravity helps you desolder. The gun is a gun. Point it like you would a pistol. Hold the board vertically upright and the desolder vac gun horizontally.

Hakko FR300 100%. You will be a little leaner in the pocket but you'll never look back

Vacuum is the way to go. I have a Pace brand vacuum and iron set. You an find tips and other parts on Ebay, Mouser, or other distributors of Pace equipment.

I was trained in the Navy to solder/desolder using Pace equipment. Tip size is critical and must be matched to the component you're going after. Temperature needs to be in the right range - Pace has instructionals to help decide the temperature. Use flux when desoldering. It helps transfer heat, and as an added bonus, cleans.

I don't touch the pad with the iron - as mentioned previously, you will lift a pad. (I do get close to the pad) Let the component lead transfer the heat to the solder, and wiggle the component lead when sucking the solder. That will ensure there's no solder "trapped" between the wall of the through hole and the component lead. Afterwards, I use an orange wood stick to push on the component leads to verify they are free. If need be, resolder the lead and suck it out again. (Don't forget the flux!)

Keeping your equipment clean is critical. Clogged filters, lines, vacuum pump leafs, etc. all cause degradation of available vacuum. Low vacuum can drive you crazy - you know your technique is good, but you can't get anything done. I have a good feel for it, but there was a time when I wanted a vacuum gauge to see where I was at.

Sorry to ramble, but spend the $ to get a vacuum desoldering gun. To me, spring loads require too much action in a short period of time, especially if you're holding the board in one hand, the iron in another, and the spring load waiting for a free hand.

I used this for the first time tonight.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi8900-portable-desoldering-system.html

I used to do each pin one at a time with a spring loaded solder sucker. It was painful. Can't beleive I didn't buy one sooner. Took a couple minutes to remove all the components for a high voltage rebuild.

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I bought one of these based on a comment in (I think) Make Magazine and I like it much better than the other solder suckers I've used. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

I like solder suckers when I have the iron hot and I don't feel like waiting for the gun to heat up, particularly when I am cleaning holes after already having removed the part.

For things like System 80 mezzanine boards, or removing a lot of pins, I have a Hakko 808. I would second the advice on keeping it clean.

I just bought one recently and I love it! Such a huge time save and it makes the board look so much better after repairs and it's also safer to use on boards. I have the aoyue 474++ and it's awesome!

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

Thanks Forceflow....

I like it. I have the Hakko, but I can see where the lighter gun with the desolder station would be a plus.

That thing takes up a lot of bench space and isn't very portable. The Hakko units are fairly compact.

I have had my Aoyue for a few years, love it, no complaints. Did not want to spend $200+ and glad I didn't. Does not take up much space, and my Weller 51 chills on top of it on my bench.

If you have the bench space that Aoyue looks like a reasonable "budget" option. In addition to multiple tips, I do like that it comes with a bench holster... the Hakko tends to swing around when I set it down and I'm terrified it'll slide off the bench one day.

I use the larger beige holster stand, rather than the tiny metal wedge. Seems to work well.
[edit]: Hakko 633 is the model/part number.

I used a spring loaded solder sucker for years and got pretty good with it. Yes, it does stick to the springs. Pretty much happens to any brand you buy. Takes very little to clean them. Take it out, few whacks on table and put it back in.
But, as you get older - you reflexes get slower and your eyesight gets worse, these get harder to use. Eventually gave up with those and just use a Weller desoldering iron now.

Does the Hakko FR 300 come with the nozzles you need?

It comes with only one nozzle.

I use the 0.8mm, 1.0mm, and 1.6mm. I don't recall which one it came bundled with, but I'm reasonably sure it was the 1.6mm. That nozzle works well for .156 header pins, but you'll need the other two to work with most other components.

Also, be sure to seach for the Hakko group buy thread--that will get you at least 10% off, if I remember right.

I recommend to get a 1.6mm tip. the 1.6mm push clean rod. and a 1.0mm drill and holder.

free shipping at hakko usa

to add

4. Not holding the trigger long enough after the suck. You shuold hold the trigger for a few additional seconds to help clear the end of the desolder gun out. Holding the trigger longer on a pull is always better.

5. adds on to #3 above. If you are doing a big blob suck, then use gravity to your advantage. Hold the board over the inverted gun. I have found this to be very useful on a large/ poorly done repair form a previous person.

I used one of those bulb units on a pcb out of my galaxian, I know I made a mess of it. I am still tracking my mistakes. I bought one of the Hakko's, and all I can say is WOW. I have done a number of things with it, replaced chips on my system 1 boards, put in an Nvram and replaced many components on a Pinbot PCB. I would never go back to anything else.

Maybe this will make things a little easier...

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/Compact_Desoldering_System.html

or

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi8900-portable-desoldering-system.html

I have the compact system and it's great- also totally compatible with all hakko accessories. I am a master with desoldering braid, but I can't tell you how much easier and faster the gun is. I'll never go back.

I used a solder sucker for many years. Then I bought the Hakko FR300 and felt like kicking myself for not getting it sooner.

Desoldering gun is nice, but also finicky. The pump is good for small quick jobs on coils and what not. The gun is great for boards because the time saved on each pin makes up for it clogging and the time it takes to clean afterwards.

The gun can pull pads if you do not learn to use the right tip for each job.

Alright, newbie question here...don't laugh at me. Are desoldering guns meant to just use on circuit boards or are they also helpful for working on other solder joints (switches, diodes, etc., etc.)

Also, anyone have a link to a good youtube video that shows good desoldering technique using a gun?

I'm about the same way. Braid wins over spring suckers for me, and is quick and easy for small amounts of pins/leads. When you are soldering 20+ pins a gun properly in working order and used correctly will be quicker.

One of the biggest helps to any method, gun or braid, is to add liquid flux to the desoldering area prior to working on it. A lot of braid is too dry right out of the package. I run a flux dispensing pen right over the braid prior to using it. Works wonders.

The gun comes with some grease that prevents that from happening. It did stick to mine at first but then I greased it up and no problems since!

Been wanting to get a desoldering gun for awhile but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Those units on circuit specialist look nice but I don't want to be disappointed and have to buy another so been leaning toward the hakko. Quite the price difference between the two though

I've got an aoyue desoldering gun. It does a fantastic job at a fraction of the price of the Hakko. I'll never go back to the old fashioned way. A lot of these guys will tell you to get a Hakko or nothing, and if you have the means, then yes get the Hakko, but you can do a great job for way less money. I have zero complaints about my gun, nothing but praise actually.

PLUS 1 on the Hakko FR300, Only regret is I didn't purchase one sooner. Also order the larger tip.

That's what I said about an escalera....

Why buy one Escalera when you can buy 5 Hakko desoldering tools instead!

Ive also got that Compact system. I could not justify the cost of hakko and this system proved me right. I have no need for something "portable" and much prefer the small form factor of this kit. You sacrifice nothing in terms of performance by going with this kit as far as I am concerned. The only sacrifice is the portability.

Yes - if you do large jobs between cleanings or don't clean often, you can end up with some very difficult to remove clumps of solder within the spring in the gun...I have not found a great solution to that other than just constant cleaning - or just stock up on extra springs, unless you are doing board work literally every day, one of those springs will last quite awhile.

This is the one I have...they sell on ebay with shipping including. I think I got mine for $99..but that was a couple years ago

I never really had an issue with the spring pump tubes...they worked fine once you get used to them. Then I borrowed a Hakko..wow was that nice.

I ended up buying the one linked below and have been using it for a couple of years. The nice thing about it is it comes with a bunch of accessories. I think three tips...cleaning stuff...a ton of extra filter pads...even a replacement spring. The Hakko ends up being 2.5x the price plus a bunch of different tips at $30ish each

The spring doesn't get clogged if you use the grease provided. Actually..that's wrong..it does get clogged but a tap on the work bench cleans it right out. It MUCH lighter than the Hakko..which his nice if your running a bunch of monitor chassis.

The one thing I do NOT like about the 474 is the power on indicator. It only lights up when the heating element is active. So if the tip is to the proper temp...the light shuts off. It can be tricky to make sure you shut it off...because it sometimes looks like its off...when It's on

Use it on anything you like.

LTG : )

Springs are for suckers.

I just got a vintage Pace unit here myself, the MBT-200. I'm pretty much going to be throwing the spring loaded sucker right into the garbage, I did a cap swap on a console last night that took me less than half the time it would have otherwise. Quite literally hit the two pads with the extractor, the cap would DROP out of the board. I've never had that with the braid or the spring loader. And the only lifted pad I had was a failure when trying to clip a lead with a tool that will be retired.

In response to this thread I bought an Aoyue 8800 Desoldering Gun. I also added a PanaVise Work Center. What a difference! As others have said, once you have the right tools you'll wonder why you ever put up with not having them.

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