I prefer hand-held since I need it for playfield work, in addition to board work.

Hakko has a nice desoldering gun. I've been using the FR-300 for a number of years, and they recently came out with an improved version FR-301.

I think I have 3 nozzle sizes--0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.6mm

Also be sure to get the appropriately sized cleaning pins, a drill bit, and replacement filters.

Yes, it's a lot of money to put into a tool, but I've found it to be an incredibly useful tool. Like you, I started with those spring loaded solder suckers, and a desoldering gun makes a huge difference, so I've never looked back.

I've never used a station but my hakko FR301 is probably the best example of "right tool for the job" I've ever experienced in my time in the hobby. Saves so much time and mistakes if you are doing board work with any sort of regularity.

It's not. It's about a pound.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/blackjack-solderwerks-bk3090-suction-gun-soldering-iron-combo.html

Been using a re-badged Hakko clone, works fine. Bought from their ebay store, under $100 when there was an ebay coupon.

Another +1 for the FR-301. This thing is such a timesaver, especially when doing ICs or anything else with multiple pins for that matter. I can't imagine the number of thru-hole barrels I would have destroyed without this thing.

Ditto with what Biff said. I've had one for a around year with absolutely no issues. Rarely clogs - to the point I can't even remember when. Great suction.

Even better when one sale.

I too bought the Hakko 301 handheld desoldering gun.

I am overall pretty happy with it, but -

I have been reluctant to use on IC chips on WPC CPU's. The WPC ic's are notorious for whisker-thin traces.

I have read others who use desoldering stations that say the "chip will just fall out" after desoldering. I find the Hakko does not work this completely. I still will use some soldering wick and gentle manipulating with the ic chips i have replaced on System 11 games.

So overall, I like it, but it is far from a perfect solution.

Sometimes adding new solder helps suck the old solder out.

I'm a believer of the Pace brand desoldering stations. Bought two of them when I worked for a route operator way back when.

Bought them from Kimco (gokimco.com) when they were just starting out. They keep a good stock of service parts which is important.

Got a link to the sale if it is still going on?

I think the site is TEquipment

On WPC cpu boards, I cut the IC chips out then use the Hakko to desolder the remaining leads. Saves the very delicate traces from damage this way.

I have been using the Aoyue 474A++ for years. I'm really happy with it's performance, and it has plenty of replacement parts that are fairly inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Desoldering-Station-Built/dp/B00ABJ4AEC

I always pull my boards out to work on them at my work station, so I don't need an all-in-one station like the Hakko FR-300.

I use a pace mbt solder/desolder industrial station myself

They certainly make life easier!

Anyone have preferance between regular and extended tips? Advantages or disadvantages?

Regular tips heat up faster and don't cool down as fast when doing the actual work.

I have an old Hakko 472 station I bought off ebay a few years ago, and rebuilt the pump with available parts. It was pretty reliable up until about a month ago, when the thermostat began to stick on. I think I need to recalibrate the heat settings on the gun. I hope to get a few more years out of it. Right now at its lowest settings, it will leave singe marks on newer boards.

Adding to MrBally's comments... I would suspect the longer tips have a higher tendency to clog. Just a WAG tho.

I picked up a Hakko FR-301 a year ago on sale and finally got around to using it tonight on a Bally lamp board. This thing rocks. A few practice sucks on another lamp board's SCR's and I tried it on the good board, and they practically fell right out. One question for you pros, the 301 was great on leads that were sticking straight out the back of the board, but a few of them were bent 90' before they were soldered at Bally, and required a little massaging with the tool 2-3 times before they were freed. Is there a better way to do this, or is it just a necessary evil? Any other tips you can share? I found that tinning the tip between sucks helped a great deal.

You can desolder a small portion of the pad...Then use a flat X-acto knife
to lift the stem.. Or the flush cutters can do the same thing.