(Topic ID: 320449)

Demolition Man weak soleniods

By martymart

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by martymart
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 1 year ago

I am working on a Demolition Man and high power solenoids J107-3 seem to be a little weak. This is noticeable when the ball drops in to bottom or top popper. The auto plunger also only just gets the ball up the lane and does not make it up around the top.

All the voltages are correct at the test points and at the solenoid. I have also re-sleeved and cleaned the top popper and auto plunger.

Has anyone else had this issue before as I am not sure where to start with this one.

#2 1 year ago

I had this issue, and the problem was a broken trace on the power driver board in the 50v line, check again continuity and the related bridge rectifier too!

#3 1 year ago

These coils can have voltage but be starved for power.

Easy things to look for are where the 70V or power in general comes into the power driver board on J101-102, (70V is on J102 pins 5-6, and 8-9) I check both of these plugs for browning, and the pins for tarnish, heat discoloration, and wear. Replace both Pins and Plugs here if you see anything suspicious, like cracked solder under the board.

The power is supplied to the coils at J107, so check pins/plugs there also.

Bridge 3 (BR3) is the one you are looking at, but it would be an unusual failure that starved power but produced voltage here... nevertheless, check here for prior work (another technician might not have done good work here...), or cracked traces or bad solder connections.

C8, the smaller capacitor in this area can start bulging/leaking, check that.

I would test by substitution Fuse F112, and fuse F105. It's not at all common, but a fuse can act as a resistor and not test bad with a meter.

There isn't THAT much else that causes this, though low line voltage to the machine can. (I once had a bar with a pinball with this problem, turned out they had the outlet on a dimmer switch! Everything was fine when they turned up the dial and the service person was there, when they turned down the dial, the machine didn't work right... (rolls eyes)).

Let us know what you find!

#4 1 year ago

One last thing...

Your front door has a safety 70V cut-off interlock switch (white nub, top, on the inside of the door just to the left.

A bad connection here, or possibly tarnish inside the switch, is a point of failure, but not one that I've had too much trouble with.

Still, it's one more thing to check... make sure the connectors are tight, etc.

#5 1 year ago

Thank you to everyone for your posts. I will get back to this one later in the week and will let you know how I go.

Really appreciate your help with this issue.

#6 1 year ago

Thank you to everyone for your assistance with this one.

I have foiund a broken trace between BR3 and the fuse. All resolved now and working as it should.

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