Are the optos now working?

You say the switches don't work, but that they do work in switch test, which would mean the switches don't work only during game play?

There's possibly more acid that is hidden on the CPU Board

Just for fun, is the high voltage switch open when you do the switch test and they work? Try closing the high voltage switch and doing the tests again.

Hmm.. all work in switch test but not while playing? That can't be right....you're missing info. Only thing I can think of is you missed a pin on a ribbon cable or something like that. Because what you're describing shouldn't happen.

Or your testing switches with your finger !

I believe it would matter because the system would have the additional load of the coils during the test. Assuming they work fine in test mode with the coil load, you might just want to try re-burning/replacing the CPU firmware. I would be happy to re-burn them or send you a set to test if I have the spare Eprom on hand. Can't hurt(unless you install it wrong ) and it eliminates corrupt code.

I would not put eprom's high on my list of possible causes.

First I would do a factory reset. Then make sure all the ribbon cables are installed properly. I would reseat each 2/3 times. Make sure all of the socketed chips on the cpu are firmly seated. Monitor the 12 volts while in game play.

Just for grins mark all of the non-working switches in the switch matrix and post a photo. Also please post a hi-res photo of the cpu board (battery area and lower part of the board).

Are the optos now working properly?

Correct, I missed that in your first post. My other suggestions still apply though.

What does the 12 volts look like under load (during game play)? While you're at it check the 12 volts during attract mode also.

I would still like to see a copy of the switch matrix diagram with the non-working switches marked (to see it there's a pattern).

And, for the third time, are the optos now working?

Grab the manual and turn to the switch matrix chart and see if those switches are in the same row.It's possible
U20 on CPU might need to be changed out

Firstly with so many random things going on you need to check your 12 volts. Check it in attract mode and check it in game play.

If that's all good then check the following:

Wht-gry wire check continuity from the board to the switches that aren't working.
Grn-blu wire (J207-6) check at the connector for a good connection (visually and you can lightly tug on the wire and see if it comes loose). Next check that color wire on all of the switches in that column and see if there are any bad solder joints or the wire is frayed (strands loose or broken). My only guess on this is that there is a high-resistance connection in the chain for the switches that work in test, but not in game play (other than a voltage issue as noted above).
There are other rows/columns to test, but we'll start there.

Demolition-Man-Switch-Matrix.png