Take a look into troubleshooting WPC 5V reset issues.

http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=WPC+reset+issues

This daughterboard may be exactly what you're looking for ...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1013-kahrus-circuits/00092-wpc-power-fix-daughterboard

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1013-kahrus-circuits/00092-wpc-power-fix-daughterboard

Rob's circuit doesn't *fix* the problem, but it distributes the power such that it's should stop the reset from happening.

Yeah that power fix board will do the trick if you cannot find the root cause.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

This is an awesome product for eliminating resets. However, it does require soldering.

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.XitylWipFGM

Note that it's usually best to actually go through the necessary troubleshooting steps first before replacing components to determine if it actually does need to be replaced.

The reason there is an extensive troubleshooting guide for resets on WPC pins is because they have a terrible design for regulating the voltage. Modern electronics don't use heat sinks because they don't need them. All of the bridge rectifiers and over sized capacitors are needed on the driver board because of how crappy the LM323k regulator is. IMHO, all of the regulators need to be replaced at the first sign of problems because they are a design flaw (or just the best we had in the 90's). Once it is replaced, you will never reset again because there is no heat generated from the circuit and no voltage drops.

Yes, there are several components involved with power regulation, and the troubleshooting guide is intended to determine which component(s) are causing the problem. My point was that it isn't always the regulator itself. If it's outputting voltage that's out of spec, then by all means, replace it. However, if it's doing fine, then there's no reason to do so. Just coming out and saying "replace part x" is not the way to solve the reset problem. It's more complicated than just one component, so things need to be tested in a logical way, rather than just throwing new parts at the problem.

The psu5 is a good substitute, but it's not perfect. Linear regulators are electrically quiet, but generate significant heat. Switching regulators (like the psu5) operate cooler, but are electrically noisy, and can cause other issues down the line. For one thing, the psu5 is known to sometimes cause issues with sound.

The regulators almost never fail, they just fail to provide a steady voltage out of the box and are being supported by components that are 30 years old. It is a single component that can be replaced in under ten minutes that will resolve reset issues. All the other components that are part of the reset check list are no longer an issue because they don't need to smooth the current.

I have never had or heard of any sound issues resulting from the PSU5.

I also fail to see how it's any different than suggesting using a $40 daughter board that only works half of the time.

Every time people recommend that Kahr daughterboard, I hear a pinball machine somewhere physically explode.

Please, for the love of doing things right and not applying bandaids to amputations, STOP recommending it. It is not the right way to fix the root problem.

Take the time to learn why it is happening, diagnose it correctly, and fix it the right away.

I never recommend it for fixing the reset issue. I think it's an acceptible temporary measure and can assist with troubleshooting at times, but it's band aid fix. I always recommend that it's better to solve the actual source of the problem. I keep one in my toolkit when going to shows in case of an unexpected problem, but that's about it.

There are quite a number of threads about psu5 issues.

That's why I'm suggesting that you should diagnose the issue first to see if it's actually a problem. You're jumping straight to a conclusion.

Why do you say that? Yes, there can be some nominal variance of a couple hundredths of a volt, but nothing that would cause a problem.

Once again, I recommend going through the troubleshooting steps in order to figure out which component(s) are contributing to the reset issue. Shotgunning the board isn't really the correct approach.

Normally, reset issues aren't just caused by one thing. Thats why there is a procedure for testing everything in a logical manner. I'm very surprised to hear that replacing the same component on multiple wpc driver boards *always* fixes reset issues. Years ago, a similar conclusion happened where folks thought the issue was *always* caused by C5, but it wasn't.

Yes, they are always caused by one thing... low voltage.

Yes, the idea is to diagnose *why* the voltage drops.

If only there was a component that you could install that would provide a totally stable voltage that also allowed you to increase or decrease the voltage as needed.... Oh wait, I already provided the link.

If the circuit works properly...I had one of these on a PDB, and no matter how much you adjusted it the voltage dropped to 4.75 after 2-5 minutes.

Like I said, there are several components involved with voltage regulation on the WPC driver board. Yes, the regulator is a significant component, but it's not the only thing that contributes to voltage drops. If solving the issue was that easy, and all reset issues could be solved by replacing only one component, then the troubleshooting guide wouldn't be necessary. Unfortunately, that's not the case.

OP, you see what we are getting at? Fix it right. Do your homework, determine the problem, and fix it the right way.

Close the coin door or enable the high voltage interlock switch.