What other WPC games do you have?
On the MPU, is the W1 or W2 jumper installed? This is above the game ROM.
Also, disconnect and reconnect ALL the ribbon cable connections.

Do you have the correct chip puller for the U9 ASIC chip? I would reseat it.
If you don't have the puller, then just push on it (with power off) and see if anything improves.

Yes as mentioned above.

I'm tempted to tell you to move the W1 jumper on the MPU to the W2 slot.

I just looked at my Demo Man and it is set for W1.

So, when I unplug the J602 to J201 ribbon cable, it does not boot, only hear a popping noise in my speaker, no bong.
I think you should change this ribbon cable.

Sound board does not sound like it is a problem since a known working board was installed.

There is a chance the other cable connecting the MPU to the fliptronix to sound board to the DMD controller is possibly bad. Ordered that one too by chance?

I am having the same sound issue with a TZ that I'm helping a friend with. I tested his sound board in my TZ today and it works fine. So I need to replace the J602 to J201 ribbon cable next. I had already replaced the other cable which is why I suggested the one. I should be going out to his house on Sunday and I hope I have good news changing out the one ribbon cable.

Though a bit more history on his TZ. The MPU had major acid damage. I bought a working board from Ebay and tested it ok in my Judge Dredd before putting it in his TZ, which is now producing no sound, but it boots up and plays. I also will have to take my TZ eprom with me to see if that is a potential problem as well.

Since you already had an issue with one of your ribbon cables, I hope that is causing your sound problem too.

The boot up problem you had and reseated the one cable is why I am hoping for just a ribbon cable causing the sound issue. Did you measure the voltages at the DMD? I would not rebuild the HV unless you see an actual voltage problem.

The voltages sounded ok to me, but the solder joints you described is because of a lot of heat.
Let us know what the voltages are after the HV rebuild.

Hopefully once you get the ribbon cable, that will solve your sound problem. I will not be going to my friends' house on Sunday to look at his TZ sound problem further. Seems that I may not get a chance until 9/28 or even on 10/5

I'm hoping that Chris Hibler can answer this. I repaired very few, so I don't know if that is too higher or that only thing that matters is that there is 12 volt difference between these 2 voltages.
I'm thinking they are ok.

I'm pretty sure that I have at least one board with those measurements. Though, I am seeing at times when the machine is cold (off for a day or two) it takes about 10 seconds before anything comes up on my DMD. Once warmed it, this is no longer an issue. My DMD does not look like it has many dark dots when it is off.

Sound always has been an issue (hope that is a ribbon cable that he wil try soon).
Recently his DMD was acting up, so he rebuilt the HV section.

I think a moderator can reverse it for you.

Excellent. Glad to hear that.

This definately is the sound board.

This definately is the sound board. I had replaced the 2 big caps on the sound board on my Theatre of Magic, but I can't recall if that fixed it or I changed another part as well. You defintaly have to be very careful when unsoldering these caps as they fit in very tightly in the board so it makes it easy to damage the feedthroughs. If you remove the caps, make sure you ohm from the pads on the top side of the board to the bottom side to make sure there is connection before installing new caps.

I do have this with a couple of other machines I have, but I have yet to make time to change those caps.

Can you look at your 2 caps to see if they are bulging out on the tops of them?

Now that the HV has the load of the DMD on it, what do these voltage measure as now? Just curious.

Yeah, it seemed like a lot of the boot up and DMD issues were related being that happened at different times after reseating the cables.

Note to self....have a set of new ribbon cables when making house calls.

Thank you for the info. Hope you're enjoying your game with the sound for the first time.
Any other boot up issues since changing the ribbon cables?

Sounds like you need to pull the board and check the solder joints on that connector.

Retest the other sound board and sell one of them. I don't see a need to have a spare one.
A spare driver board makes sense as that would be the board that gives the most trouble.

Which one is the new DMD?
I'm worried the the ghosting and the other issue may be due to the high 136 volts.

I think you need to check to see if there any cracked solder joints on your DMD controller board that the two ibbon cables plug into. I need a magnifying glass to see any as they are pretty small joints as it is.

Good chance that the Babcock may have a cracked solder joint as well. That will take a lot to look over carefully. The Vishay ghosting, I'm wondering if you should reseat your ASIC (u9) on the MPU. You need the correct chip puller for it or you will damage the IC socket and would then need to replace it.

Did you check for solder shorts between the pins? Sometimes solder shorts are very small that you have to measure them with an ohmmeter.

What does it do with the other DMD?

I wonder as well.
No one else yet replied if it was too high of voltage.

Are there any parts in the HV kit you did not use?

Wish I had a spare DMD controller board to send to you to test out.
Getting my machines ready for the Houston Arcade Expo that is happening in just a month.

A couple of my machines have no HV at all and I don't need it since they are running the ColorDMD.

We shall welcome him.
The Houston Arcade Expo is Nov 7th and 8th.
www.arcadecenter.com

If you are still around on Friday 10/31, then hit Joystix at 9pm to 2am for $15 a person.
www.joystixgames.com (PacMan Fever is only 1st and last Friday of the month)

DMD controller board is a good one to have as a spare.
Though, I would test out the other sound board and sell one of those.
Rarely a sound board has a problem.

What are you using as ground? Those voltages are not looking good.
I normally just wedge my black lead under the ground braid wire at the bottom of the backbox so I don't have to hold that lead.

He is measuring the 2 highest voltages at the power connector of the DMD.
-138 and -116 are the first two voltages he is seeing.

From Pinwiki.com

pin 1 -110V (-124V in early DMD machines) (anode voltage)
pin 2 -98V Must be 12V less than anode voltage. Will be about 20V less than anode voltage if display not connected
Key 3
Ground pin 4
Ground pin 5
pin 6 5V
pin 7 12V
pin 8 68V

Put your meter on ohms and put your leads together.
Wondering if your meter is reading wrong or you have a bad lead.
Have zero ohms? Less than .4 ohms is typical good reading.

Those are some good readings.
I actually have a couple of lines out on a DMD with an internal ribbon cable as well.
Hadn't messed with one of those yet. I need too though.

As I recall his other measurements were good other than the first two reading too high.

Does the DMD come on at all?

Which is why I was wonder if as long as there was a 12 volt difference than the '98v' and '110v' would there be a problem with the 125v you were seeing. I have a Judge Dredd with about the same readings as you are getting. Only thing I can tell is higher the voltage, the faster the plasma DMD will 'burn out'.