Hi,

I've just started renovation on my Demolition man pinball.
It seems almost all inserts are damaged - basically the layer over the insert plastics themselves has been worn away.

I've tried searching for a insert decal set, but there doesn't seem to be any available.
The only thing I've found is a overlay for the multiball area at https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/demolition-man/9678/multiball-overlay-for-demolition-man?c=2802

Does anyone know where/if I can get a set for the rest of them ?

Looks like something from the coin door.

Something like this : https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/cabinet/coin-doors/27-3732.html

Will do - let me know if you are in Stavanger anytime

Check the ball through opto and its connectors, that's where such problems often stem from.

Probably on the door in the backbox (the one that holds the lamps there).

This one ? https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/demolition-man/3968/plastic-for-demolition-man-31-1919-2?c=0
See this thread for group orders : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed

I had this on the upper left flipper. Turned out to be a broken pin on the ribbon cable connector on the fliptronics board.

The coil firing indicates that the machine believes there's a ball in the VUK. This is probably because the optos are not working/not connected and therefore register as a closed switch (actually open since it's an opto, but anyways ...).

I have had problems with the connector from the opto to the wire harness. Try wiggling the connector while in switch test.
If that makes the switch go on/off, you can either clean the connector with some isopropanol or repin the connector.

Have you tried flexing the connectors on the opto through board when in switch test ?
If you find that this changes the state of the switches, then I would suggest changing the connector on the cable in addition to reflowing the connector on the boards.
This is a known weak spot for these machines (and other with the same opto through).
The connectors are IDC connectors where the cables come loose with vibration. Not always easy to detect with the bare eye.

Try this :
Take *both* boards out of DM and put in STTNG.
Check that all switches work, check wiggling connectors - if all is fine, then you know both boards work.
If both boards work I would suggest new connectors and repinning of both connectors in you DM.

Did you measure continuity on top of the IDC connectors - or on the opto PCB itself ?

For example - or with the connector 100% in and measure the solder points under the PCB.

Well, if you're sure all connectors are good, the switch matrix works when you test it directly on the MPU board and both boards work in STTNG I'm not sure what might cause this.
I had a TZ clock where I had to increase the current through one of the LEDs to make it brighter or the switch would be erratic.

You say you have tried the RX board from STTNG in DM - but have you tried both boards from STTNG in DM at the same time ?

rvermeire Just to make sure :

Is this picture *with* balls in the through or *without* balls in the through ?

Optos are opposite from normal switches.
They show "switch closed" when there is no obstruction (i.e. no ball) and "switch open" when the light from emitter to receiver is stopped (i.e. ball in through).
So if you have all balls in the through here, it seems to me it is switch 2 and 4 that are not working.

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I had this 3d-printed at JLCPCB : https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/demolition-man-pinball-long-bridge
They didn't have any silver printing options at the time, so I had it printed in black.
The blue inserts you can probably use any blue color gel for lighting.

ebay.com link: itm

FYI : Here you can compare the quality of Pinballcenter plastics to the original.
I choose to keep the battered originals except where missing.
If anyone has a genuine set for sale I'm interested.

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I recently bought what I thought was a partial NOS set of plastics.
When they arrived, one of them was different from the others.
The colors were off and the orange/black border was printed on top of the plastics - not underneath.
I contacted the seller and they told me this :

>They are 100% NOS plastics provided by WMS as an "easy break set" to operators. They were sourced from by the late Greg Berry at Chicago Expo early >2000's. These are the last two sets out of a dozen we have sold.

Would anyone be able to confirm that this is the case - did Williams make plastics with print on top and non-matching colors?

2023-05-08 18.55.37 (resized).jpg

Using OCD-boards (Afterglow or LedOCD) has become a must for me.
The combination of bright, even LEDs with proper fading is way better than the pulsing and "hard" on/off without these boards.
I'm now using it on all my WPC/sys11/DE/Sega games.

I'm not aware of any LED-fading-boards that will work with a early Bally pinball like Centaur.

LedOCD : https://www.ledocd.com/
Afterglow : contact stumblor here on Pinside, he has had some pre-assembled kits for sale before.

Does the game boot if you start it with the grey ribbon cable disconnected from the sound board? (Don't disconnect with power on, turn power off first)
If it boots then, do you get a "dong" sound on boot?

Try disconnecting all cables from the CPU except for the power cables - normal (not flat) grey and black cables coming from the driver board (with the power off).
When you switch on the game, does one of the 3 leds in the top left corner of the CPU board start and keep blinking?

Good - I'm assuming it is the middle one.
This means the game is booting and the CPU should be (mostly) OK - there could be issues with switches etc., but at least it starts.
Next step : connect the grey ribbon cables going to the top right circuit board - that is the DMD/display board.
There are 2 cables going there, one going via the Fliptronic board (top left) and sound board (top middle) and one going directly.
Don't connect the Fliptronic and sound board yet, only the DMD/display board.
Make sure the connectors are connected correctly - the red wire should be to the left on the CPU board and to the top on the sound board.
Also check that the connector hits all the pins on the board - it is easy to displace it one pin to the left or one row wrong.

Then start the game again and see if something comes up on the display.

So far so good - so the CPU and display card + display are working.
Do the same with the Fliptronic card (upper left) - with the power off, connect the grey ribbon cable.
Switch the game on and try starting a game - if all is well, it should play fine but with no sound.

If this is working, the final step is the sound board.
Make sure the ROMs are installed the right way around - there's a small notch at the end of each chip that should match the notch indicated on the white silkscreen printing on the circuit board - and of course the number on the ROM chip should match the number is printed on the corresponding socket on the sound board.
Connect the grey ribbon cable (with the power off) and start the game.
If it locks up or doesn't boot, you have a fault with the sound board.

Do you hear a "bong" sound when you switch on the machine?
If there's no "bong" and no sound at all, check for basic stuff like is the volume turned down and if all connectors are connected to the sound board.
There are 2 connectors to the speakers at the bottom right of the sound board with black wires - check that they are connected in the right positions.

If the image is stable but random/garbage it could be the DMD card (not the display itself) that has taken a hit.
Do you have any other WPC machines that use the same card?
If so, you could try swapping the cards around and see if the problem follows the card - or if the problem persists in the Demolition man machine.

Yes, that should work.

If the sound board has problems with the chips connected to the interface (grey ribbon cable), this can affect communications from the CPU to the other boards as well.
So if the game still works as expected with the grey cable from the sound board disconnected, there's a fault with the sound board.
Probably best to send it to ChrisHibler or someone else qualified to repair it.

Could be the plastic part of the bat has come loose from the metal shaft - or cracked perhaps?