So I patched my ROM today to LX4C, If I want the profanity sound rom , which one do I need to replace/update. Thanks...PS just joined the club with a really nice HUO machine...
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Has anyone had to adjust the swing of the claw? The arm doesn't seem to travel enough to reach the ACMAG drop at the far left, just short...pulling off the plastic's on top of it...looks like a PITA just wondered if there is a simpler way I'm not seeing before I get into removing ramps and such...
Quoted from zacaj:Mine very barely makes it. You can't really change the range of motion of the claw, only align it (or the plastic) differently. I'd try to move the plastic where the ball drops first if possible
yeah? there isn't a set screw somewhere that sets the arm ?..I'll look at the plastic...but it didn't look to "movable"
Quoted from zacaj:There's a set screw on the arm but the shaft has a flat side for it
Gotcha, I did sort of loosen and push the plastic a bit and was able to drop two out of three balls correctly, so I'll see how it goes....Thanks...
Quoted from Ceckitti:After I shopped mine it did a similar thing. When i lifted my playfield when it was half apart the claw arm got wedged in the cabinet and bent it a bit. After putting the game back together it wouldn't drop the ball in the right spots. After bending and straightening the metal arm I was able to get it to work perfectly again.
gotcha...for now I'm going to let it ride as it seems to work good for now...If I ever have to go that deep I'll take another look at it...
Quoted from Gorgar666:Well., looks likes it quickly reversible.
So taking other peoples’ word for it, where I can’t vouch for the accuracy, basically the only difference between H5 and H6 is the profanity….
H5 is just the upgraded audio sample quality without profanity
H6 is the upgraded audio with profanity.
They use the same sound roms to perform the “audio upgrade”, but instead of it being a selectable thing in the options, H5 just never calls the profanity.
So if you decided down the road to remove the profanity, you could buy just the H5 CPU and not have to buy the huge set again next time.
Quoted from a fairly reliable source that wishes to be anonymous in case this is bullshit. LOL
There is an option to turn it off in the menu....there is also the "FUCK YOU" on the display, which I guess is built into the game rom...I like it...but its pricey if you don't have a burner... I think 9 roms altogether when you're done...
Quoted from trueno92:Yah if its going all 9 roms, id want more background music as well and more call outs.
Blows me away they actually flew out to meet sly and snipes and record this stuff in person, feels like less than 10 call outs made it into the game and they cribbed everything else from the movie....
Someone needs to do a Pinsound mix for this machine....right now not worth it for the stock sounds...
Btw...anyone know how many machines were given away by William's to the producers?...I picked this one up last year from a pinsider
20211005_095616 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ceckitti:Saundra Bullock is still waiting to get hers lol
Yeah I saw that video clip...too funny
Is your coin door closed when you're testing?, If so and you've changed ALL the fuses, I would specifically check the fuse associated with the solenoids themselves...are you sure the fuse didn't blow again when you put a new one in? use a meter to check continunity...Do you have all your led's lit on the Power driver board? (except that one-can't recall what number it is 3?)Check all your main voltages...
Quoted from Phoerber:Sensei : I never was able to find a way to use the profanity option on anything but the home free-play ROM. LX-4 does not have the vulgarity setting...
Hmmm, pretty sure I have the LX-4 Rom, and I have it...had to replace all the sound roms mind you...9 in total as I recall...
Quoted from BubbaPin:Okay, did the test, and that's just the left most the arm wants to travel, bent the arm alittle bit and gonna try to level out that plastic five bank area so it'll work better. Next issue and it's cross posted.
DAD
BubbaPin
Pinside member
US Lewisville, TX
2y 31,050 179 5 9
Demolition man, just got it, few kinks but this specific one is a head scratcher unless if I'm overthinking. All lights on row six are out except for the last one, the buy in button. So shoot again, freeze 3, car crash top, start multi all, side ramp arrow, middle rollover, stand up 4 are all out. I inspected all the sockets, already got a new tip 102 when I thought it was the whole row, just Incase that's it because that was the first thing to come to mind. Was about about to test the transistor when I noticed the buy in button flash.... I'm gonna test the transistor even though I don't see how one would work without the others if the transistor was blown. Any ideas anyone
I had this same issue, I loosened the screws that hold the alignment of the plastic and sort of scooched as much play out of it as I could and retightened the screws as I held it...just works now...check you playfield angle too
Quoted from BubbaPin:Swapped my pinsound out of my LAH into this today to see if it was worth buying another one. And the sound quality is amazing with this original movie sound track remix version. Just wish someone would make a cooler mix.
yeah this machine needs it...just not one of my talents...
Quoted from BubbaPin:Sounds great, uses audio files from the movie soundtrack. Alot fuller. Just needs a mix.
Speaking of which, this question is for any pinsound board users. Every once in a while the game will generate a test report stating "sound board error". Music and call outs all work so there is no visible error. Possible hunches are that the board takes alittle bit to boot, so the mpu board may read that as a error because it doesn't boot as fast as stock board? Or possibly it just recognizes it's not a stock board? And yes I reseated ribbons. Everything works it just tells me there is a error.
If you pull the usb, there is an error/diag file on it...should tell you what the issue is being flagged...
Quoted from BubbaPin:So since the right flippers fully extended point is shorter than the left. I can only post pass from left to right, not right to left. That's the issue I'm talking about. I check rubber stoppers, they're good. I check linkage length, they're good. I checked bracket for bending or difference in length, it checks out. Tomorrow or the next day I'm gonna take both coil stops out to check to make sure the wrong stop didn't get put in a kit, I did pick them up at TPF and I noticed a kit I didn't buy was missing the Allen screws so possible a mix up in stops? But I'll also try alignmentml up position, but I feel
Like that would cause ball issued
I'd put my money on the wrong coil stop ...as that determines the stroke of the bat
Quoted from allsportdvd:I have a complete set of vulgar speech roms I’ve been using for a while. Wanted to update to the Soren code U6 chip only which changes the claw awards in particular but keeps the vulgar speech sounds I already have
When I ordered my updated ROM (version 7.0), I recall I had to specifically ask for the vulgar speach vs the stardard...did you order that one?
Quoted from PalmettoPinworks:2 quick questions for anyone that wants to help. I'm almost totally done reassembling my machine, but for the life of me I can't find where one of the plugs goes! I even labeled the darn thing, but can't find the match. It is made up of 2 green and one white wires coming off of the claw assembly ending in a 2 pin connector. Where does it go?! Any photos would be of great help. Other question is where does the "black rubber bumper grommet" listed as part 23-6535 in the manual go? The diagram gives it label A, but doesn't actually show it anywhere.[quoted image]
you can determine which switch it goes to by the color wires...look up the switch matrix in the manual and where those two color wires intersect, thats the switch it goes to..most likely a ramp switch on the upper playfield is my guess based on the fact its in a molex connector...Not sure about that bumper you've listed...that part is just a regular metal post bumper no? which diagram are you looking at?
Quoted from PalmettoPinworks:The wires are for the Capture Simon switch, but I can't find where they connect to for the life of me. I actually labeled all of the connections before I took it apart, so it is there somewhere! Really don't want to have to take the whole claw area to pieces.
The diagram I'm looking at is from the manual on page 2-41. Interestingly, there is a seller on ebay with a different diagram that seems to show where the part goes. It looks like an oem diagram, but I can't find it anywhere else. If it a post bumper, why does it only call for 1 when there are 2 metal posts? 30 year old manual typo?
it seems the original manuals are notorisously bad when it comes to the rings...If you really want a better breakdown go to titan and look up the game in the database...people leave comments as to what rings a needed and sometimes subsituted...but that is the common small ring used on mini posts...as far as the switch goes...so you know which switch it goes to but can't find it? Can't you just follow the wires back to the connector from the switch?
Quoted from p1nbot:Don't mean to derail the current troubleshooting but I too have a weird one that I hope someone can help with!
I've owned my DM for about 3 months with no issues.
Today, when using the claw, if I drop the ball through 'capture simon' it registers as the 'super jets' award. Dropping on 'super jets' ALSO registers as the 'super jets' award as expected.
I'm not experienced at all in working on pinball machines and I also haven't done any work to it.
Mechanically I can't imagine what would have happened to the switch to have it start registering differently. Any thoughts on how to fix?
I would go into swtich test and activate the switch you wanted to activate, and see if any others activate...may just be a bad diode in there somewhere
Quoted from The_Pump_House:A word on opto boards. Either trough or flipper.
The first thing I do is check the voltage at the opto board. If your 12v is sagging the transmitter may not be bright enough to consistently register.
This can show up as weak flippers. The opto may appear to pass in switch test but it’s actually fluttering to quickly too detect in switch test This can also show up as a random second ball in the shooter lane or a vuk randomly firing.
Checking the voltage at the opto board is the easiest first test but I rarely see it suggested as a first diagnosis step.
When I first got my machine, I went through and replaced all the electrolitics just because...but I found one leaking on the underside of the playfield, I think it was the opto board but cant recall...so yes they are failing if you haven't changed them already, do so...
Quoted from Santis:Leds are 5 v. I’m tapping in 12 v to get power from coin door interface. It has to. Be reduced. Thank you anyway
hmm...its been a while since I did mine, but as I recall they're are on the lamp matrix as they flash and such during attract mode...so if anything should it not have a diode ? I think a search of this thread a ways back should reveal what you need to know...
edit, check post 923 on this forum....it is connected to the 12v power...
Quoted from Jason43:Anyone know why the circled pin would be removed on the connector below? It's for the connector to the door matrix control board. I've been going through this machine, trying to reverse the poorly done mods and fix the handful of(probably related) issues and noticed this. At first I thought it was broken, but it looks to be desoldered. The machine came with a color dmd, but I can't find anything in the instructions that says to remove it.
[quoted image]
yes there should be a pin there...probably got stuck in the ribbon cable connector at some point...did you check there to see if its there? If you have to replace the header, get the type that encapsulate the connector.
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