Demolition Man Owners Club.... Members Only!

(Topic ID: 31302)

Demolition Man Owners Club.... Members Only!

By Rascal_H

6 years ago

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  • 1,300 posts
  • 264 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by underlord
  • Topic is favorited by 86 Pinsiders


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#905 12 months ago

Just joined the club. It defiantly is a flow monster. I adjust all my games to 6.5 degrees. When I initially set up my demo man it was closer to 7 degrees and it did not play that bad. At 6.5 its a tad slow so I might adjust to to maybe 6.7 or so. Does everyone else's have the FL-11629 coils for main flippers? The right is FL-11629 and left upper and lower are both FL-11630's. Plenty of power for all ramps/orbits. I ordered the correct FL-11629 coil for the lower left but not sure if i need it.

I am looking for the computer plastic as well and the small plastic to the right of the pops. If someone has scans I could make the plastics too.

For people with LED's, do you disable the GI dimming functionality? My game came with incandescents and this feature off, turned it on but did not notice any actual use of GI dimming used in game, albeit, I have not progressed alot in the modes yet.

#912 12 months ago

Is this game typically a drain hog? car crash, either ramp coming back down, post next to left ramp, all these bring it SDTM. I have my demo man level from side to side. Also after retina scan kickout it 60% of the time drains to outlane, I have adjusted the post to make the opening as small as possible.

#914 12 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Car crash and ramp rejects can be bad, yeah. My left ramp is much worse than my right, but I rarely fail to make the left so it's alright. There's an option on some rom versions for a ball save from the car crash.
I've never seen retina scan kickout drain before. Maybe arm is bent?

Maybe, it bounces of the post rubber and slingshot a little which causes it to drain. the other 40% it goes straight down the inlane just fine.

#917 12 months ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

If your game is level, the ball should never drain coming out of Retina Scan, you clearly have ball-guides out of adjustment. Also, make sure you're using a 3/8" OD rubber on the mini-post, and not a 7/16".

Seems like someone at some point installed a regular star post where a narrow post should be on the left slingshot next to the inlane causing the rubber to be a little too narrow. Sucks as I just placed an order on pinballlife.

#919 11 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Greetings, fellow DM owners. After a full tear-down and shop I have this one small clear plastic left. Can someone please point me to its intended location? Thank you!

Willing to sell old plastics?

#922 11 months ago

I need the computer plastic. I could use new sling plastics but mine are somewhat presentable. Not to mention I need that super small piece in the pop area that's always missing.

#923 11 months ago

So I cannot take credit for this idea, I read it a few pages back and I think gweempose started the conversation with lots of good info from TheOnlyest. I figured I might as well take some pictures along the way to help others out.

Again, I bought these buttons and they came with the important resistor required for 12v operation. link » 2x Durable 12mm Elevated Car Black Button Blue Angel Eye Led Momentary Switch

I also used 22 gauge wire for this modification, bought here. link »

Lastly, you need some .156" molex 2 position plug housing and the connectors that go inside. Optional is making plugs at each trigger assembly. I used .062" molex round pin stuff.

First step is to detach the 2 pin switch connector (green and white), the 7 wire connector attached with Z connector (this needs to be removed at flipper switch opto board in addition), and the green grounding wire attached to leg mounting plate.
Using I think a T25 security Torx bit, remove the 4 mounting screws connecting the assembly to the cabinet, no need to remove the clam shell half at this point.
IMG_7153 (resized).JPG
IMG_7152 (resized).JPG
With the assembly on your workbench, remove the two torx security screws holding the halves together. If you are nervous about this work, remember, my kids are helping its that easy.
IMG_7156 (resized).JPG
IMG_7140 (resized).JPG

Remove the white and green switch wires from the switch assembly, note there is NO diode on this switch. I will check the manual to see if the diode is elsewhere or if this is a direct switch not part of the switch matrix.
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Now you need to remove the small phillips screw holding the micro switch into the switch housing. Remove the switch and keep the mounting plate and the lock washer, my new buttons did not come with a lock washer so I reused the old one. Keep all the switch components in a baggie in the coin box for later use or if the new owner does not like the new buttons. I always keep any original part I remove from a game.
Assemble the new angle eye switch. Do not worry about using the o-ring supplied with the new button. I orientated my button so the "+ and -" LED connections were on top and bottom with switch connections to left and right but it does not matter. As you can see, a bit more room in the trigger housing with the new buttons.
IMG_7142 (resized).JPG

It is very important that you use the supplied resistor inline with the LED. This is used to drop the voltage for the LED. It can be wired to the + or - terminal, I chose + terminal. Add heat shrink to the stripped wire and pre-tin the wire leads and contacts on the new switch, this will help with soldering them together. I first soldered the resistor onto the "+" terminal of the button, then the negative wire to the terminal opposite of the resistor. Lastly, I soldered the positive wire to the other end of the resistor.
IMG_7143 (resized).JPG
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Now you can re-attach the switch connections. The old switch had a normally open pole and normally closed pole, the new switch is ONLY normally open so the green and white wires can be attached to either of the other two connections. Williams did not add heat shrink to original connections but we are not worried about tact time or assembly cost so add some heat shrink. Even if we are not professionals we want to act like them.
IMG_7145 (resized).JPG
This is good time to bust out the multi-meter and check to see if the button works and nothing got damaged. Alot easier to change something now then when the machine is all buttoned up. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink the heat shrink once you verified the switch is working.
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Place the new switch assembly back into the housing and route the wire similar to as shown. You just do not want them interfering with the trigger button action.
IMG_7149 (resized).JPG

You can now cut the other end of the power wire and terminate with a .062" molex connector of run it right to the coin door interface board. I chose to use molex connectors because it will be easier to remove handle assemblies later on. Remember to cut leads long enough to clear the flat mounting plate on the inside of the cabinet. Make sure the new power wire is routed into the grooves along with the other bunch of wires, you do not want to pinch the wires during assembly.
IMG_7150 (resized).JPG

Reassemble the handle assemblies making sure to not pinch the wires. Route the wire bunch back into the cabinet and re-attach the handles to the cabinet. If you game is home use, you can switch to not security torx hardware and swap out for standard hex head button screws.

Measure out some wire and terminal with the mating molex connectors for handle assemblies (if you added connectors). I used 22 gauge wire which was small enough to fit two wires into a .156" molex connector so I could make a wiring harness.
IMG_7162 (resized).JPG

We want to attach the power wires using a 2 position .156" molex connector to the coin door interface board. It has a spare 12v supply I can only assume would be to run a ticket dispensing machine or bill validator. Positive to "12v" pin 4th from bottom or pin "1" and negative to "PWR GND" pin 3rd from bottom or pin "1".
IMG_7139 (resized).JPG

You should be all set, turn power on and marvel at your work.
IMG_7163 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#951 10 months ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Instructions worked perfectly.
Youtube vid to follow soon with a little trik to make them a.little more.interactive.
ยป YouTube video

Aliexpress has some.very nicely finished buttons and the resistor is built in with a 5-24v tolerance. $5 each, shipped.

Relay off start button pulses?

#953 10 months ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Nope, even simpler. Just wire it inline with the leads for the start button light.
Its flashy in attract and non distracting when game has started at the same time.

oo because your buttons are 5-24vdc led's?

#955 10 months ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Bingo, all led circuit flexibility, pin-friendly.

can you provide a link?

2 months later
#990 7 months ago
Quoted from Walamab:

thanks for all of the feedback...
I was able to work on my new-to-me DM this weekend and got a lot of things worked out.
New police car fixed the problem with that area. It works perfectly now.
I adjusted the launcher assembly and now get the ball to complete the orbit nearly every time (99%). Rotating it very slightly clockwise within the "slop" in the screw holes did the trick.
As for the cracking speakers...I found a variable resistor (or maybe its a capacitor) alligator clipped across a resistor on the sound board. When I adjust it, it appears to adjust the balance between the sub in the bottom of the cabinet and the panel speakers. When I remove it completely, there's no cracking but not much low end from the sub. I've adjusted it to give a bit of bass with cracking in the panel speaker.
has anyone else seen something like this?
Thanks again!

They could be using it as a "rheostat" which changes the impedance of the speakers which can help adjust the power between cabinet speaker and head speakers.

3 months later
#1051 4 months ago

What playfield angle does everyone play your demo man at?

#1054 4 months ago

Whoa Nellie. That's steep. Super fast and unforgiving I imagine? No issues getting up ramps?

1 week later
#1060 4 months ago
Quoted from robd222:

Hi pinside,
I just picked up a demo man couple weeks ago, I brought it straight to the shop to have it cleaned and fixed up a bit, but I got a message today from the shop and I need a replacement trigger button, Trigger Control Button 03-9015.
As I am now finding out these are pretty much unavailable. so as a new member to the club I'm asking does anyone have an extra trigger button they would be willing to sell me or even an entire handle assembly? Or does anyone know of another part that would work in it's place until the correct ones are available? I'm really excited for this game and of course, you want to be able use the triggers. Thank you in advance for any help or advice, also excited to be a member of the owners Club

There are some writeups in above posts on using lighted buttons to replace the originals. Best bet is to do that probably.

#1087 4 months ago

Does someone have the file? If not I can take my triggers out and reverse engineer them into a file anyone can use.

1 month later
#1153 78 days ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Added the new tough optic boards now the it's not start a game. Hair pulling! Update, game starts if I disable the claw. I'll look at that tomorrow.

I was not able to start a game if one of the cyroclaw optos were not being satisfied IIRC. I would assume the opto for the elevator position needs to sense the claw for it to start a game. I ended up cleaning both optos and the game worked.

#1165 75 days ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Where on PF is it marked diamond PF?

its in the era where all PF were coated so they stopped advertising because it was no longer a "new" selling feature.

2 months later
#1269 4 days ago

that looks awesome!

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