(Topic ID: 31302)
Linked Games
Demolition Man
Williams, 1994
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider greenmachine19.
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Groton, CT
1 week later
Doesn't seem too blue in person to me. However I agree it looks awfully blue in this pic. This is how the game was when I bought it. It plays ok now but I intend to do a full tear down after we have a chance to enjoy it for awhile. I will prob change a few things.
1 year later
I like the idea of hot glue as well those keys stand the connector off the connection a little bit and they not very tight in the connector
1 month later
I’m surprised that someone hasn’t made these of cast aluminum. I would pay a hefty sum for an unbreakable set.
2 weeks later
Doing a full tear down resto. I had to get my subway weldment repaired due to it becoming separated. A nuclear qualified welder hooked me up at work. Should never come apart again.
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Curious about group opinion. I’m in the middle of a full teardown resto of my DM. I’ve pulled out a play field protector that has kept the play field very good looking underneath. The game played great with it on. Would you guys rather put it back on or finish it with it off? I would just like to hear what others would do.
1 month later
Made my own stainless steel ramp flaps. Tired of rusty flaps.
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Mike Chestnut chromed handles. Halo led buttons. Polished stainless hardware. Anodized red aluminum triggers. Demolition Man. So hot right now. Demolition Man.
6505F145-377A-492B-9FC5-828D3E4E76F1 (resized).jpeg26C651AE-0B50-4E13-9874-BEB46DCBA05A (resized).jpeg62A36830-6820-4EA4-9CC4-190447C1C9EC (resized).jpeg7A0AD277-5307-4524-9EA9-5BC3B20A9CEF (resized).jpegAFF6CCC3-5E5C-4658-BC15-F6A223A440C6 (resized).jpegE1252704-F5B1-482C-AED1-A46DBA33CF7E (resized).jpegF9518F43-0B97-494C-98F3-F672F7255B65 (resized).jpegI have several sets of triggers I’d be willing to part with PM me. The buttons from eBay. Credit to the pinsider in this thread that gave a little tutorial works great.
Quoted from Ozzy:Thanks for the wonderful insight
Pinside shows average price range for the title if you click on it. Tough for anyone to guess how the game looks to give a price estimate. Maybe $2500 to $3200. A lot less if its beat, more if its super nice. Post pics and you'll get real answers
Quoted from zacaj:There isn't an opto for the eyeball I don't think just the target at the back
I guess not for the eyeball but right next to it for the car. Just wondering has anyone added a GI socket and bulb here. There is just a hole here with nothing in it.
I brought mine to work and had the welders do it. It’s a delicate weld because it’s so thin they could blow a hole in it if it’s not set right. My friend from work played with temperatures on scrap before attempting on the real deal.
Lockdown receiver. Before and after.
35320A6C-2ED5-4BED-A814-E1513E31FDEF (resized).jpeg1C79C5F9-E200-4BEE-AFDA-A4BB63CDFE27 (resized).jpeg745737DE-F298-4873-9434-34FA6238935D (resized).jpeg7F829664-AF68-4FCC-BED0-7E168ACF7A2F (resized).jpegEF7D16A5-3225-4ABC-B9F6-3400CF44070C (resized).jpegA56DF928-8193-45FE-93DF-C92718AE7ABA (resized).jpegStarted with 220 grit, 320 grit, 1000, 2000. Then once it was smooth I used the green rouge and the compressed lambs wool disks to polish. Harbor freight. I’ve don’t it to all the games I’ve restored because I don’t like it when everything looks perfect until you pull off the lockdown bar. Somewhere in this games life someone dumped a drink or 2 past the beer seal. I don’t polish everything underneath but just the commonly seen areas. I also replace all the cabinet hardware with polished stainless because I hate looking at a chromed game with rusty cab bolts in contrast. I’m weird about it but it drives me nuts.
Quoted from trumpy:looks good but arnt they plated steel , and havnt you just taken all the plating off , so now it will rust . you say you've done it to all your machines . have the other ones gone rusty yet?
If you see the before pictures it was already rusty so even if it was galvanized in the past it failed. After i'm done i treat it to Blue Magic polish cream. I guess really the only thing that wont eventually tarnish or rust is stainless. Even chrome needs to be polished. My other machines haven't rusted so far. I did FT 2-3 years ago now and still no rust. I do keep my games in the house not in a damp basement so maybe that helps?
These Pinball Life coin slot replacement are very nice. The old ones were crumbling. Previous owner had blue GI which was just too blue. Swapped out that with white but everything on the cab is clear when off ice blue when on.
3A4E3F1D-30D4-4F4B-B01B-5E1713C54B87 (resized).jpegEE278B68-56E6-443A-BE4F-97F2D7BD2F05 (resized).jpeg8CC9794C-AA6D-47EF-AFA8-C415B7548BA8 (resized).jpeg032AACF1-E133-49E2-8C39-E54C90A9D3CF (resized).jpeg6025438E-84D3-4172-81ED-2F35E06B2F38 (resized).jpeg77B0307E-020B-43B7-827C-888B68346C3A (resized).jpegI was taking a closer look at the flyer for this game. I noticed the round yellow targets were square and fat. They kind of look like the car crash target or eyeball target. I was wondering if anyone actually has/had these in their game originally?
Any tricks to removing the barbed light sockets in the head for the translite without destroying them? I did a forum search but came up with nothing. I'd like to sand and paint this piece.
1 week later
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I picked up a couple of friends for Demolition Man! I was worried he was lonely being the only futuristic cop in my lineup.
[quoted image]
Jealous.
Ok my quest for all clear when off and blue when on continues. eBay 1/32” discs that are 7/8” diameter are almost a perfect fit. I had to sand around the edge until it fit inside the cover. I used rub on transfers for the lettering. Put Mylar over the top to keep the letters from falling off.
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Quoted from dawasa:Does anyone have an alternate translite they would like to sell? If so, please PM me?
[quoted image]
I second the motion! I really like the “original” version that got vetoed by Wesley Snipes that they used for the DM on steroids. Would like to get my hands on one of those.
3 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from nerdygrrl:A while back I shipped Kerry at Mantis my mangled subway chute thing. Last week, I got the prototype in the mail and I am beyond excited. It is flawless, and better than the original. Initial testing shows it's a drop in replacement with no playability issues. I am still testing it out, and hoping to play the heck out of it this week to test its durability. I think we may finally have an aftermarket product available.[quoted image]
This is awesome, I would snatch one up as a spare!
2 weeks later
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Looks like my Demo Man isn't quite finished. I wonder what the quality is like.
I like it too but would have to redo my flashers (nbd)
1 month later
Which ones? The bolts that hold the handles together or the bolts that hold the handle to the cabinet?
Quoted from Langless28:These might work for the barrels and the just buy regular button head cap screws at the correct length for the other side.
https://www.mcmaster.com/98975a253
If I remember stock is 8/32. 10/32 might not fit the hole. Maybe if you hogged out the holes more? McMaster also has the stainless security head screws so people don’t steal them.
Quoted from Walamab:I tried to go with stainless and it looks a little odd against the bright chrome of newly plated handles. I ended up taking increasing grit wet dry sand paper and polishing pads from Hoybby Lobby and polishing the heads of the original barrel nuts and screws. It turned out nicely. I'll post a picture this evening when I get home if you care to see how it looks.
Stainless looks like fresh chrome when polished.
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Quoted from yellowghost:Has anybody attempted to inject new fluid into the floating eyeball? And what to use? Water?
Yes there is someone that restored the eyeball. They used alcohol to refill. I was able to purchase new eyeballs for fairly cheap. Not worth the effort in my opinion. I can’t remember the website but it was recent and they are gettable.
I believe it was Mr Pinball. An Australian website. They have them in different colors. They are same as original.
2 weeks later
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-demolition-man-86
Looking to move on to something new.
1 month later
I was able to get eyeballs easily. I have a couple with different color retinas even. I’ll post the source when I get home.
From my recent restoration I always horde extras and spares because I’m crazy. The one on the left came with the game. Wrong eyeball. I believe I got this from an Australia website but I haven’t found it yet. I will post when I find it.
532F411B-52F3-4E31-BCB0-747F8D9D5A22 (resized).jpeg908AD6C8-06C9-4DD5-9630-F868419900AF (resized).jpeghttps://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/floating-eyeball/
$7.00 each different colors available.
I guess I don’t know what the stock one is suppose to look like then. I saw a website that shows a restoration of a stock one and it looked more like the ones on the right to me. That guy said it was filled with alcohol. He spent about 100 man hours getting it back to normal.
I stand corrected here is the article from 2003. Eyeball looks like the one on the left. I’m not going through that for this eyeball though. I’ll use the mr. pinball ones. Shipping is expensive but if you get enough people together you can split the shipping.
1 week later
Replace the whole thing (available). Or have a buddy who can weld this thin cheap metal without blowing a hole in it. Very common failure.
1 week later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I have a row of lamps that are always on, looked in the manual and it’s the red/gray line. What does this mean when it’s always on rather than off?
A shorted transistor?
2 months later
1 week later
2 months later
1 year later
Have long sold my DM but still have a couple trigger buttons left over. Plastic and metal.
I got them from over seas years ago. Australia I think. When I did my DM restore.
8 months later
Quoted from blastbeat:Can anyone confirm if the Capture Simon hole by the claw has an arm on the switch (the switch in the hole).
I had 2 switch errors (it was just a connector issue I believe) but noticed there's no arm on the switch....maybe since it's too tight and the ball hits the yellow switch button directly? Seems to register fine when playing but let me know if I need to attach an arm to the switch please! Thanks
[quoted image]
Definitely suppose to have an arm. Probably laying in the subway or the bottom of the cabinet.
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