Did you get these from Marcos? And the playfield protector? I have a Demo Man coming from Europe that isn't currently working. When I get it working it will be time to order new plastics, rings, and a playfield protector. Do you have a protector on anything else? What do you think about it? I am working on a Pinbot, stripped the mylar off, and am planning on a playfield protector for it too. Thanks!

I'm considering orange rings and flippers (fluorescent orange would be perfect!), with either light blue or gray posts.

What is the part number?

Great work! It's amazing that these machines still work when they are so dirty, and are so tough that they come out shining when someone cleans them up! I have one coming from Europe that is about that dirty - do you have any tips or tricks for us specific to a Demo Man refurb?

Page 3-32 in the manual I believe shows that only J104 is used, not J105. See attached...

Williams_1994_Demolition_Man_Operations_Manual_English_OCR_searchable.pdf

I'm interested. How much are you asking? I have one coming in a container group buy that I know has wear down in front of the flippers that I don't have the skills to fix. But I can't afford much and I've never done a playfield swap!

Nice chrome!

I'm in the process of bringing a beat up re-import DM back to life. Can someone please take a picture of their 7-opto board under the playfield by the left flipper? I am curious to see how the board is attached to the brackets - mine is using zip ties. See pic... Thank you!

Screen Shot 2017-08-12 at 12.57.37 PM (resized).png

Thank you for the pics. Those are indeed roll-over rivets, my favorite (not!) to install.

Got a pic?

Get the kits and rebuild them yourself. It is very easy and you'll feel better about your skills when you're done. Vid's guide is awesome. Also, the manual is your friend. All of the assemblies with part numbers are in there to plug into the search field at the supplier of your choice's website.

Also to note - Vid's guide uses NORMALLY CLOSED EOS, and Demo Man uses NORMALLY OPEN EOS.

Nice looking DM! Did you buy it in that shape or have you modded it already? Could you tell me where you got those lit buttons on the handles? I'm in the process of bringing a container DM back to life and it could use a little bling!

Thank you and your friend for the button info!

Captive Eyeball - I have scoured all of the interwebs I can find for a new floating eyeball of the correct 1-1/16" diameter with no luck. Anyone have any ideas or leads? I've read the Pinball Rebel ordeal of reconditioning one, and that's not going to happen. Ideas?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-662&Product_Code=PPS-20-9804-1

20-9804-1 (resized).jpg

Seems to me that in this forum the answer is usually optos, optos, and optos. Oh wait, maybe that was the Judge Dredd forum...!?

Correct. The claw itself is only a magnet.

I gotta bow out here. My knowledge has come to an end! Anyone else got ideas?

Greetings, fellow DM owners. After a full tear-down and shop I have this one small clear plastic left. Can someone please point me to its intended location? Thank you!

DM mystery plastic (resized).jpeg

Absolutely. I will put up some pics tonight.

I haven't forgotten about this, just haven't got there yet...

Is that piece of plastic a clear small rectangle with two small holes that look to be for rivets? I put a new plastic set on mine and have one like that left. I'll put a pic up tomorrow - can you please post a pic of this plastic in place?

Is this the plastic that is missing? I have this left over after installing a new set and I don't know where it goes. Any input?

IMG_4685 (resized).jpg

Last page of the manual... Solenoid & flasher matrixes are usually at the front, and controlled lamps & switch matrixes are at the back of the manuals (at least for WPC).

Screen Shot 2018-08-09 at 7.34.29 PM (resized).png

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/selling-pinball-parts

No triggers, though:

Demolition Man parts
Motor EMI board A-15542-17$
Tilt mechanism assy-10$
Outhole through assy-50$
Ball eject assy B-9361-R-15$
Incline ramp A-17291-18$
All Lamp boards-30$
EYE Gate assy-15$
Left ramp enter assy-12$
Left ramp exit assy-12$
Right ramp enter assy-10$
Right ramp exit assy-10$
Side ramp enter assy-12$
Side ramp exit assy-10$
Super jackpot assy-16$
Demolition time assy-16$
2xFeed ramp-2x25$
2xBall trough assy A-16765(without the boards)-2x35$
Ball popper assy rear A-17215-30$

Turn off the Match feature and that goes away. I thought he was saying the F word too, but he's not. He's actually saying, "Wonder if I can play the accordion, too?". Here's the movie clip:

http://www.tzr.io/yarn-clip/32440ddc-e557-41f8-bf6c-ddbc1cf273af

Youtube has great videos on mold making and casting. Particularly from a company BJB that sells the materials too. I started going down this rabbit hole to make a replacement baby T-rex egg for Lost World Jurrasic Park but never acquired the machine. Maybe I'll look at this again with the DM triggers in mind. Anyone else out there have any experience with this? How much would one expect to pay for a pair of triggers? Here is one of BJB's videos showing a kit of recommended/required accessories $118):

Thanks for the info, Walamab . I haven't heard from anyone else that needs triggers, and given the setup cost to do this right (>$200) I'm likely not going to take the project on. My triggers are fine but I'd use them to create the molds if there were at least 10 people willing to pay around $20 for a set of triggers so I could hopefully come close to breaking even!

I had funky problems with ball counts in mine and traced it to the trough optos. While poking around the boards I discovered how HOT the big 2 watt resistors on the transmitter optos get. Like, REALLY HOT! This combined with ball bangs(!) and vibration have to be bad for solder joints over the long run. Since I had to do work on the boards I went looking for modern replacements and found them by Great Lakes Modular. These use surface mount components, are much more efficient, and don't get hot. They're only $60 for a set of TX/RX. Once replaced my weird problems were cured. Highly recommended! Edit: They also make replacement Claw Opto boards.

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/dcs_tr.html
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/dcs_tt.html
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/dmcob.html

Get the complete switches at:

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswiwms.html

Or, if you have a rivet set, get the faces and replace them yourself. This is what I did with my Demo Man, following Vid's guide. If you don't have a rivet tool, I recommend the Third Hand Rivet Tool:

http://www.arbortime.mountainminded.net/html/the_better_tonka_rivet_tool_-_.html

Replacing Stand-up Target Faces - Vid's Guide:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stand-up-target-faces-vids-guide

Not overkill at all. I replaced all of my target faces, Matchbox cars, plastics, and the eyeball!

The stock eyeball is 1-1/16” in diameter. Most of these toys are larger and don’t fit, but the one you found may work. It’s cheap enough that you should give it a try!

Looks like I'm a little late to the party, but I have this plastic key fob if you still need it...

Your ColorDMD will show one of 49 colors in the base 'Sigma Mode'. You can change the color in the menu of the ColorDMD.

Same - What's your procedure? That looks fantastic. It's amazing what beauty lies beneath the corrosion!

I find the easiest thing to do is look through the image gallery to find the relevant posts.

I have an extra pair of the red LED angel eye elevated buttons that I didn't use. PM me if interested. I did them in blue and never got to put the red in before selling my DM. Yes, I miss it.

Yes, Comet makes the ice blue. I used them under the Freeze Lock inserts, color matched (pink for orange, warm white for yellow) under the rest of the inserts, and Sunlight for GI. I order everything frosted and simply remove the dome with pliers if I want clear.

That's a $1200 machine, IMO.