I'm new to the WPC world, but I now have WhoDunnit, Road Show and Demolition Man. From what I have read, it wouldn't hurt to rework your power driver board (I have done this to all of mine). I'm not an advocate of swapping out the bridges if they are functioning properly (you'll know it if they aren't!), but I do replace all of the capacitors (they get old and dry out) and I reflow the solder on all of the header pins. Any number of issues will be avoided or resolved. Be careful when removing the snap-caps so you don't mess up the through-holes and check for continuity on both sides of the board when you are done installing the new ones.

Good luck!

Langless28 did a great write-up in post 923 above where he replaced his switches with some with LED lighting. Included is a link to the switches available on eBay. They should work for you without the lights, if desired.

Why the jumpers? Do you have pictures? Have you run the coil test? Does the diverter work in test?

Since you have 50 volts at the diverter coil, check continuity from the Brown/Violet coil wire to the power driver board (reading from the schematics, the Brown/Violet wire should go to J127-8 and then to Q44 (I don't know which leg) and/or the unbanded side of D17).

You said you tested for 50 volts on the power driver board and at each coil. Were the readings the same or very close to the same?

I believe you said that you tested the TIP102 at Q44. Did you also test the 2N5401 at Q43?