Pasadena, CA
Quoted from Spitfiren8:If u dont want to pull ramps change the gi from under the pf
That's what I was wondering! Are all the GI bulbs accessible from below? I haven't even lifted the play field yet.
(Topic ID: 31302)
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Demolition Man
Williams, 1994
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Yep, just remove the screw holding the each socket in and change away
Edit: make sure to do this powered off so u dont accidentally short across anything while changing.
Quoted from Spitfiren8:Yep, just remove the screw holding the each socket in and change away
Edit: make sure to do this powered off so u dont accidentally short across anything while changing.
Giggity.
Thank you!
Brisbane City
Quoted from yellowghost:I might have the right side. I will look later.
Thanks for that, but no longer needed, found a NOS set.
cheers
2 weeks later
Got the led button kit for the shooter handles.
When I took the handles apart the trigger return spring broke on both handles.
Don't know if they were just weak from fatigue over the years or I was careless.
Becareful when taking apart.
20221220_094328 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20221220_094859_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from kciaccio:Got the led button kit for the shooter handles.
When I took the handles apart the trigger return spring broke on both handles.
Don't know if they were just weak from fatigue over the years or I was careless.
Becareful when taking apart.[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine did the same thing, replaced both while I was at it. You can call Marcos and just order the springs alone rather than that whole kit. Much cheaper.
Any chance anyone has a scans of cabinet decals they could share? I'm trying to get some stickers made for my coin door and want to use parts of images on them.
Might be able to get one. What is a good price for a Demolition man today? I always assume I will need to put $250 into any machine I get to get it in proper operating condition.
Anything in particular I should double check as well? Part or area that breaks and is hard to fix?
Quoted from alexanr1:Might be able to get one. What is a good price for a Demolition man today? I always assume I will need to put $250 into any machine I get to get it in proper operating condition.
Anything in particular I should double check as well? Part or area that breaks and is hard to fix?
The claw..
Quoted from alexanr1:Might be able to get one. What is a good price for a Demolition man today? I always assume I will need to put $250 into any machine I get to get it in proper operating condition.
Anything in particular I should double check as well? Part or area that breaks and is hard to fix?
3500-4200 would be a good price, but I'd pay up to 5000 for a nice one. Obviously condition is everything. I'd highly recommend picking up a Demolition Man if you can. It's become one of my favorite WPC games. I own Dracula, Getaway and have had others. I haven't had any big issues with the game. It's a plus if the games been shopped and the ramps have been removed / cleaned. The ramps are a little bit of a puzzle. My favorite mods are Ice Blue LEDs, red cryo claw plastic, blue flipper bats with translucent rubbers, purple led under play field located off the third flipper hole skill shot and color dmd.
Quoted from alexanr1:Might be able to get one. What is a good price for a Demolition man today? I always assume I will need to put $250 into any machine I get to get it in proper operating condition.
Anything in particular I should double check as well? Part or area that breaks and is hard to fix?
Some of the plastic ramp sections and playfield plastics take a beating. Not hard to replace but availability is limited and you can quickly go through $250.
Hi - I am a brand new first time pinball owner. Just got my Demolition Man on Sunday and I'm having a switch issue. Wondering if anyone could offer some advice. I've written it up as a reply on the topic below, because the OP on that topic was describing the exact same symptoms I'm experiencing. Rather than cross-posting, here is the link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-check-switches#post-7307725
Quoted from renskemo:Hi - I am a brand new first time pinball owner. Just got my Demolition Man on Sunday and I'm having a switch issue. Wondering if anyone could offer some advice. I've written it up as a reply on the topic below, because the OP on that topic was describing the exact same symptoms I'm experiencing. Rather than cross-posting, here is the link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-check-switches#post-7307725
Check the back box and make sure all your molex connections are plugged in on your mpu and driver board. Check your fuses with a multi-meter.
Hi. I got the tumb led for handles. Does anyone knows the resistor ohm value that is needed to connect it? thank you
Quoted from Santis:Hi. I got the tumb led for handles. Does anyone knows the resistor ohm value that is needed to connect it? thank you
Most no longer require resistors. I have some LED lit button inserts and they don't require any.
Reading
Quoted from Sensei:Most no longer require resistors. I have some LED lit button inserts
Leds are 5 v. I’m tapping in 12 v to get power from coin door interface. It has to. Be reduced. Thank you anyway
Quoted from Santis:Leds are 5 v. I’m tapping in 12 v to get power from coin door interface. It has to. Be reduced. Thank you anyway
hmm...its been a while since I did mine, but as I recall they're are on the lamp matrix as they flash and such during attract mode...so if anything should it not have a diode ? I think a search of this thread a ways back should reveal what you need to know...
edit, check post 923 on this forum....it is connected to the 12v power...
Quoted from monkfe:hmm...its been a while since I did mine, but as I recall they're are on the lamp matrix as they flash and such during a
thank you
So I'm having a strange issue. My left flippers seem to be week, but only when using the flipper button. They work fine when using the handles. All flipper coils, sleeves, plungers, and stops are fine. I have never had this issue before. All test fine in test. Any ideas of what to look for?
Quoted from smoothbore19:So I'm having a strange issue. My left flippers seem to be week, but only when using the flipper button. They work fine when using the handles. All flipper coils, sleeves, plungers, and stops are fine. I have never had this issue before. All test fine in test. Any ideas of what to look for?
Dirty optos or a failing opto. Try cleaning them first. If that does not correct it swap the left and right flipper button opto boards and see if the problem follows the board
I didn't even think of that. I'll give that a try.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Dirty optos or a failing opto. Try cleaning them first. If that does not correct it swap the left and right flipper button opto boards and see if the problem follows the board
1 week later
Quoted from trueno92:Also a small light strip above the claw that ties into the leds for each mode is kinda cool cuz it will flash over the claw making it stand out more.
How do you tie the light strip into the leds if their is a different LED for each mode?
Quoted from PalmettoPinworks:The flashers in my backbox are not working. All fuses are good. Where should I look next?
check for continuity between flasher and molex.
Stavanger
Toronto, ON
Quoted from Gorgar666:I got an OG from my machine. $20 shipped….
Just get this, finding another oldsmobile ss in red with black stripes is gonna be a pita
Quoted from kciaccio:Post the best topper for demo man. Homemade or commercial bought!
Not mine, but the best I have even seen. Post #2405
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:Anybody have used plastics, looking for no cracks/chips. Picture shows the 5 that I need circled in red. thanks -A
[quoted image]
Sorry a year old, but i have some of these plastics, if you still have a demo man..
here is the demo man mix that I made for a Pinsound setup...Game-Changer! (and not looking for donations, just try it out and lmk what you think https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/367-demo-man-king-henrys-ost-remix/ AND I HIGHLY SUGGEST UPDATING THE FIRMWARE ON YOUR PINSOUND BOARD..now my LotR plays steller, and even better than before (ring magnet etc isn't wonky). Will be good to update for any machine I would think...
Quoted from KING-HENRY:here is the demo man mix that I made for a Pinsound setup...Game-Changer! (and not looking for donations, just try it out and lmk what you think https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/367-demo-man-king-henrys-ost-remix/ AND I HIGHLY SUGGEST UPDATING THE FIRMWARE ON YOUR PINSOUND BOARD..now my LotR plays steller, and even better than before (ring magnet etc isn't wonky). Will be good to update for any machine I would think...
Do you have a video of it in action?
Quoted from Santis:check for continuity between flasher and molex.
Flashers in the back box make a HUGE difference, esp in demotime mode!
I got a few extra 2nds translites that I am offering to the group here for a substantial discount. They have minor printing defects but they would basically be moot from playing position.
send me a PM/DM for more details and pricing!!
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Pinash:Getting ready to swap my DM gi over to leds. Usually I got with comet sunlight white, but this time I was thinking the cooler natural white. Any opinions to those who have swapped?
Are you getting this board?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards-general-illumination?variant=39990957473894
Ive converted about a dozen wpcs and have never tried that board. If the flickering is bad, I usually just disable gi dimming in the adjustments. Do you recommend the ocd board?
I was more curious about which color temp white people have used.
Quoted from Pinash:Ive converted about a dozen wpcs and have never tried that board. If the flickering is bad, I usually just disable gi dimming in the adjustments. Do you recommend the ocd board?
I was more curious about which color temp white people have used.
Demolition has a cool dimming feature on the GI when multiball starts, you lose that without the board.
Quoted from Pinash:Ive converted about a dozen wpcs and have never tried that board. If the flickering is bad, I usually just disable gi dimming in the adjustments. Do you recommend the ocd board?
I was more curious about which color temp white people have use
I’ve converted over 50 games to led. The flickering is in the led All depend where you getting them All my games work perfectly whit out the OCD boards.
Quoted from Pinash:Ive converted about a dozen wpcs and have never tried that board. If the flickering is bad, I usually just disable gi dimming in the adjustments. Do you recommend the ocd board?
I was more curious about which color temp white people have used.
The flickering isnt bad, it actually creates a bit of an effect that actually matches the tempo of the helicopter blade sound effect of fortress multiball. I dont even think many ppl notice, but it is very different from the dimming effect originally implemented.
For example, in demotime wizard mode, the entire gi turns off with dimming used to fade quadrents k
Of the pf. That doesn't happen with leds in the gi.
Quoted from kciaccio:Do you have a video of it in action?
Sorry I deleted that video a while back. Can always download the files and listen to the individual tracks though
Quoted from Pinash:Getting ready to swap my DM gi over to leds. Usually I got with comet sunlight white, but this time I was thinking the cooler natural white. Any opinions to those who have swapped?
Get the anti flickering LEDs. No issues at all with mine. No new boards and no dimming changes needed.
Quoted from PalmettoPinworks:Get the anti flickering LEDs. No issues at all with mine. No new boards and no dimming changes needed.
I hope you are right. I am about to install the premium non ghosting led kit from cointaker.
I really don't want to spend the 160 for the GI board to make the dimming effect work like it did from the factory if I don't have to.
Quoted from trueno92:Non ghosting and dimming are different.
yep..correct. LED's can't naturally dim like a real bulb..it has to step down, digitally (hence the term 'Light Emitting Diode'). The extra cap in a non-ghosting bulb just eliminates the flicker..it can't dim, in and out, unless the hardware before it can 'tell it' to..hence the LEDOCD board. I had two Demo mans, and while LED'd, it couldn't emulate what the incandescents can do in certain modes in this machine.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:yep..correct. LED's can't naturally dim like a real bulb..it has to step down, digitally (hence the term 'Light Emitting Diode'). The extra cap in a non-ghosting bulb just eliminates the flicker..it can't dim, in and out, unless the hardware before it can 'tell it' to..hence the LEDOCD board. I had two Demo mans, and while LED'd, it couldn't emulate what the incandescents can do in certain modes in this machine.
That's what I was trying to tell these people..lol
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