it seems the original manuals are notorisously bad when it comes to the rings...If you really want a better breakdown go to titan and look up the game in the database...people leave comments as to what rings a needed and sometimes subsituted...but that is the common small ring used on mini posts...as far as the switch goes...so you know which switch it goes to but can't find it? Can't you just follow the wires back to the connector from the switch?

Formed and finished the last Demo Man ramp last night

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Anybody need Profanity/GAME ROM 7.0 update chips? PM me, I have one set left.

PM sent!

I need an eyeball for my game.. Went to check out and €840 EUR for shipping to the US!?? Thats insane.. Any Euro pinsiders willing to get me one and send my way? Pm me.

Demo Man Ramps update..

This week I will assemble the prototype pieces for Demo Man and arrange with my friend to test fit them. Not sure if I already mentioned it, but I will be making all 6 of the pieces out of my thicker .150" plastic. I did mention that I found most of the pieces in Demo Man to be quite fragile, so the .150" plastic will be a great improvement.

Something new I have not encountered before was on the Cryo-Claw piece. The rivet heads where the ball rolls were actually recessed into the piece. Given the thickness of the plastic, that recessing results in less than 1/16" of plastic under the rivet head. At least on the donor piece I have, that is where the cracks initiated...so, the .150" plastic will strengthen this issue.

I just spoke to the license holder for Bally/Williams and looks like I will be able to get the 4 decals for the 3 ramps. The Subway ramp has a metal protector where the ball drops and I will make and install those. Ramps will of course include entrance flaps, however, the exit brackets (exits to wire forms) are unique and not a simple thing to reproduce. While I will predrill for them, those brackets will need to be transferred from the original ramps to the new ramps.

Nice. Now we need an Available Plastic Set.

Someone needs to make a mirror mod for those top M,T,L roller overs. I can’t see shit. What that stand for anyway….

Hmm.. good idea! It's funny.. when I first acquired my demoman, my son had to do the move and check to see the lamps.. now he's over 6' and seems to see them clearly.. it's not fair. :/

Magnesium Thermite Laser

Demo Man progress update...

Got to visit my friend today to test fit all my pieces in his game. The Center Ramp example I was initially given was quite damaged. Fortunately, he had another example of this ramp and I was able to identify a change I need to make to mine to make it perfect. I will modify this mold today and I suspect to begin production (Forming) of the ramps tomorrow.

I had also posted a question earlier concerning the slots cut into the top of the car tunnel that I thought the ramp would look cleaner without them. Pinsider @Kogi responded that his only thought was they were there to test the Optos for the tunnel. When I went to test fit today, before I could tell my friend about the discussion on the need for the slots, he asked if I could eliminate them. I explained I had posed this question and we could see that the optos can be tested outside of the ramp. He requested that his tunnel be made without the slots. So I will be considering selling this piece both ways.

I also learned today that the plastic set for Demo Man has been produced in the past (My friend has the full set). Dropped a hint to Planetary to see if he might do another run. Maybe...

Another Pinsider had asked if I could do the Cryo-Claw piece in transparent blue. I have actually dyed an unfinished piece blue and as soon as I get it done I will post a photo. My friend commented that the blue complemented the blue in the Cryo-Claw tunnel approach pieces.

All for now....Mark

One other thing I forgot to mention...

GraniteStatePin had posted a request for the right side entrance protector for the Demo Man Center ramp. Posted that if my friend had it I would make him one. I borrowed his second example of this ramp which has the protector mounted on it, so I will be able to make him one.

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Another update for Demo Man... Looks like plastic sets will be remade!

Thank you so much!!!! Been needing this forever

Having a problem with back vik, it's not detecting the ball. Seems like the optos are not working even after a cleaning. In switch test they don't do anything. The weird part is the coil fires several times when you turn on the game. Any ideas? Should I just replace the optos? Computer vuk optos are working.

The coil firing indicates that the machine believes there's a ball in the VUK. This is probably because the optos are not working/not connected and therefore register as a closed switch (actually open since it's an opto, but anyways ...).

I have had problems with the connector from the opto to the wire harness. Try wiggling the connector while in switch test.
If that makes the switch go on/off, you can either clean the connector with some isopropanol or repin the connector.

Cryo-Claw in clear and transparent blue

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Yes this is great

Wow. Mines isn't broke but I'll take one in blue.

Interested in blue. How does it look in the game?

Honestly, I will not know how it looks in a game most likely until someone purchases it and installs it. What I do know is that the application of colored pieces in conjunction with incredible LED lighting affects generally makes them very attractive.

I have three friends here locally....Two are regularly here on Pinside. fanofpinball and @Dumbass. Both fanofpinball and my other friend have always been willing to loan to me anything I want regardless of how long I will have them waiting to reproduce...In some cases up to a year! I have yet to get anything from @Dumbass, but every time I see him he reiterates that what ever he has, I am welcome to. DumbAss is another individual that is truly in this for the good of the community.

The friend who loaned me multiple examples of the Demo Man pieces just has his machine sitting in his shop waiting to do a complete restoration but honestly will not be anytime soon. He was also the donor for the Comet pieces and has yet to install!...but he will.

fanofpinball was the donor for the Radical ramps. I got to see his machine at the NW Pinball show last week. It was in the Tournament lineup. Found out during the show that his machine was dropped on delivery to the show, basically doing a somersault, landing upside-down, resting on the backbox, destroying both the back glass, the playfield glass and damaging the lower cabinet side rails...YIKES! Locals quickly got together and located a back glass and new playfield glass so the game would be ready for the show...Fortunately no damage to my ramps!

I've said this before, but these guys and the Pinball Community in general are why I keep making ramps.

I wouldn't mind trying this out.

Ill jump in, and install one for pictures and! Youtube video step by step install. Do let me know when they are ready!

Now you talking Bro!

Hi Mark,

I am somewhat local to you (Port Orchard) and likewise would be happy help with anything.

Pete

I just joined the club! Found one in really good shape playfield is amazing …. Any leads on someone who can replace the handles ?

I don't know where to get new handles, but pinballplating.com will take your old ones in exchange for newly chromed ones. I think it's about $350 though.

Freeplay40 Interesting note, that car crash plastic does not appear to have any slots in the flyer:
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=662&picno=4614&zoom=1

Amazing thank you !

I want to say in the movie there is something that says..."medical thawing laser". I know it shows up on a monitor in the beginning credits for a few seconds just as MTL.

One of these days I want to redo the ones in my game to say MDK.

Issues with trough 4. Error switch 34

These are the boards, cleaned up the optos.
Strange wire under one of the boards, think it's connected to opto 4...? suppose LED4 and Q4 are through 4
Board seems ok and don't understand wire. Anyone can think of the idea behind it .

Which Rx resistor is taking care of Through 4 ? Got a strange brown one... (on R5)

Resistors are getting very very hot... doesn't seem normal neither...

Both board LED's are on
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That jumper just looks to be grounding the other IR thru it. Not a big deal.
Id say the other solder work at the bottom of that board looks a tad more suspect! Maybe the ribbon cable connector had seen better days?

Just added a pin2dmd in my demo man, for this game I thought there weren’t enough animations to warrant the extra cost of a colordmd and this is a well priced alternative

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Maybe not a big deal, but why would someone do this ? Q4 and Q5 are connected via the cable could it mean Q4 is broken and 5 is replacing it in game via this cable ? (if so why the switch error..?)

Strange also is the fact the non banded side of the 4 diodes are bridged with the pins of the connnector...
The other 5 troughs work fine so guess connector is ok.

What could be a solution here? replace Q4 LED ?

anything else I could test to isolate the issue?

All resistors measure a value in ohms, guess they match the resistor values.
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If this board came to me to diagnose, this would be my process before testing components on the board….. get rid of all the solder that isn’t factory… that is bad solder no matter how it functions. Once solder is removed, pull out meter and schematics and meter each connection to see where you have a bad trace. If no bad traces, solder everything proper, and then begin component diagnosis.

I would suggest consulting the schematic for your answers.

Probably to fix a broken trace or pulled pad / through-hole from a part replacement.

Not strange according to the schematic.

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The receiver board has been butchered. The transmitter board is also butchered. I expect the transmitter board to be this way. The transmitters often fail and the resistors are known to self de-solder from the excessive heat they dissipate. Attempts to replace the transmitter and/or resistor often result in the butchering of this board. Your boards can be made to work but if you can't interpret a schematic it would probably be easier to just replace them.

Demolition Man UPDATE

I have successfully formed and rough cut out my first batch of complete ramp sets. 4 out of 6 of the pieces, due to their shape and elevations must be nearly completely hand finished. I was asked by a Pinsider if I could include the exit brackets which are riveted to the ends of all three ramps. Generally, I choose not to provide intricate pieces. These brackets are a bit of an intricate cut plus the bend. I reached out to Marco and they will source the part for me. At the moment, I have purchased 48 pieces (Enough for 16 sets of the ramps) and they are on the way to me. Marco had these in stock, but I was cautioned that, future requests may be higher in price. Planetary Pinball has reproduced the 4 ramp decals and those were shipped to me today as well.

Some of you know how to do riveting and some are yet to learn! Riveting is really pretty easy....it's kind of like soldering...80% the proper tool and 20% the needed skill. The exit brackets on your existing ramps can be transferred to the new ramps, or I will provide new brackets installed for $7 each ramp. JodyG aka rampomatic.com has just restocked his rivet kits with the rivet tool. Both Jody and I are more than willing to help you through the learning curve....seriously, it will take just minutes and you will be riveting like a pro.

Even with me offering the exit brackets installed, there is still other riveting involved with these pieces. While some things like flasher domes or associated light sockets can be attached with screws, the Cryo-Claw will need the two switch brackets riveted to the new piece.

That said, here are the prices...

Large Right Diverter ramp $170 (Includes entrance flap and decals...add $7 for exit bracket)
Center ramp $120 (Includes entrance flap and decal...add $7 for exit bracket)
Left Ramp $115 (Includes entrance flap and decal...add $7 for exit bracket)
Cryo-Claw clear $90
Cryo-Claw transparent blue $100
Subway $55 (Includes stainless steel ball drop protector)
Auto Tunnel $75 (Available with or without the slots cut in the top)

Shipping to be determined.

I am producing enough full sets for a little less than half of what I have on my "Interest" list.....not that you must order a full set, but this initial release will help me adjust future production to what is wanted. I will start down the "interest" list as soon as I have stuff finished and ready....probably about a week.

In the mean time, I would appreciate anyone clarifying what they will want.

This one has been a long time coming and appreciate the community which is always so patient with me. Usually we reproduce one, two or maybe three pieces for a particular game. Demo Man with 6 pieces is the most I have done for any one game.

Cheers!....Mark

.

Tx for feedback, still learning and got swap boards on their way so might try some things with old boards to 'learn' . All resistors are about 270 ohm so they should be ok, gonna reflow them.

It seems trough 4 is still registering when i put other IR from tx board in front of it.

So the game has 5 balls and a jam trough, does this mean LED7 on the TX side is not used and could be used to replace the led of trough 4 ?

And Which led is trough 4? Not clear in manual.

I just found Williams's original promotional video for Demolition Man on YouTube. It seems like this must have been posted here before, but I couldn't find it. In case it hasn't though, here's a link. It's classic!

Demolition Man promo video:

Oh man good stuff lol.

The resistors themselves rarely got out of specification. It's usually the connections between the power source, resistors and transmitter LEDs that are bad. The most likely cause is a bad transmitter.

This indicates the receiver side is working properly. This is expected. The receivers rarely fail.

Yes. You can do this. The switch matrix only has entries up to "Trough 5" so the software doesn't even see "Trough 6". Take care you do not pull the through holes if present. This will cause the transmitter to never work unless you restore electrical continuity (electrically correct).

"Trough 4" is LED5.

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Now, that's really great info !! Thx DumbAss !!

What do you mean with : Take care you do not pull the through holes if present.

One other strange thing I have is I can't see the IR Leds on with my phone (iPhone 13) or wifes phone (iPhone SE2)...

I have a 13 Pro and can see the transmitter light. I verified this on a friend's Star Trek TNG at a show and it showed me the transmitter had failed.

Some phone "photo" cameras have IR filters installed to block the IR light. Try the "selfie" camera. Also check the other known good transmitters to see if you can see something. If one of the transmitters does not show light it has probably failed. If all of them don't show light (and you know at least some of them work) then your camera is the problem.

Demo Man decals will arrive today. Exit brackets will arrive on Thursday. Will start shipping this coming weekend.

Just finishing up my 5th DM refurb, and wanted to share my poor man’s refurb for “chrome” flippers and handles… I am pretty happy with how they turned out, especially for the price….

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Swapped LED7 and 5. Re-used phone and finally managed to see the IR lightning up... All are on!
But as you can see in pic it's not ok yet...all 5 balls are loaded in the 'troughs'....
And when I play the game keeps on shooting 2 balls in game.

12V on connector is OK, LED on PCB is on. All resistors have a value between 266-269 ohms, a small one 1265ohm. Did reflow of all solderpoints...

Out of ideas...

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I had the problem of occasionally getting two balls served, turned out to be a dry joint on the pcb connector. Found the problem by flexing the board (with or without balls in trough, I can't remember) and seeing the switch test reacting and beeping as I did.