I'll help as I seem to be getting plenty here.

My DM reset during multiball after I put the thing back together as well. Ended up being the 5v dropping out. With all the coils firing and switches etc I think it was draining the power and shutting off.

You may need to rebuild the board, I borrowed a daughter board first to see if that fixed the issue and it did. So definitely look at you voltages!

I honestly thought this was weird?!? They work during game play and in test mode however???

Power to the coils, I think so. I tested the oHms and read 4 on most. Is that right?

Crap I hope its not the board. I have zero skill when it comes to that kinda of thing. I'm assuming I need to check the Driver Board?

No, that's testing the coil's resistance. You want to check for power at the coil lugs against ground.

I am curious as to why none of the coils are firing when you are grounding them manually, so hopefully this will shine more light onto the issue.

Whoops, double post.

Coils will not fire in test if the coin door is open . Just say'n .

Well sh-- I turned on the machine today and got a Check J112, Fuse F106, F115 and one other I cant remember. Also Check Opto 12V power. When I went to test the claw two coils pulsed and the claw said out of range. All of theses are good and all cables were hooked up. I pulled the Driver Board to try and trouble shoot it.

I'm thinking of just replacing the board. I found some burn on the back, and I really have no skill fixing these boards.

Ok, don't do that...yet. Buy this cheap fix first and see if that helps any issues. It's what I have and before my problems, so far so good.

https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

As for you opto error, check the cables under playfield right near the left flipper. Try re-seating them as this is where all of your optos are controlled from.

arolden you won't believe this, the coil wasn't firing due to a break....man!! I didn't see it but had a mate over with me yesterday that saw a spark when trying to trouble shoot.

I never saw it because of where the plunger is positioned.

Re-soldered and we are up and running.

I need to change the way the coil faces as the lugs are getting a constant hammering against the wood where the shooter lane is, which I think causes it to loosen and break over time as this is the second time we've fixed it!!

Thank you for you're help...regardless of my stupidity, I've learnt a few things along the way! Cheers.

Glad you got it fixed! As I said in one of my first posts, checking the fuses and wiring should always be the first step.

I'm still curious why the knocker was not firing when you grounded it. Have you tried that test again?

My demo man was resetting a ton and it came with one of these kahr deals. I removed it and now it all works... weird?

Then you found the source of your original issue. The connector or header pins at J210 on the MPU are probably damaged or worn.

I did some testing on my board, and put it back in. I didn't find anything other than the burn on the back of the board. Its really noticeable but not so bad I need a new board just yet. After putting it back in the machine seems to be working fine. So at this point I'm not sure. Maybe a bad header pin or something.

Well still having the damn reset issues during multi ball. I ordered the plug in reset thing from Marco. Pretty sure it's the same thing as the Kahr. Even if this works I think I'm still gonna order in some new boards down the road.

Did you try as many of the suggestions as you could on Pinwiki regarding resets?

It sounds like you may have a short somewhere. One short can make some strange shit happen. I especially think this may be as you just removed and reinstalled everything. It may be a needle in the haystack, but start with the diagnostic codes it is throwing and search everywhere for a wire, loose bulb or metal part that may make intermittent contact with a power source/switch.

I went through the bottom side of the playfield. I unplugged and plugged in most of the connectors. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I did see that the connector on the board for the ball through is kind of finicky. I forced a bunch of multi balls with no resets.

It's probably connectors. Maybe have a local tech come help? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Make a what?

Wanna kick some ass in a Demolition Man tournament?

Hey guys, I'm trying to set up an online tournament for next Friday (April 17th), and I'm trying to recruit participants that have one of the games I have. I'm going to be posting this in each of the forums for the games I own, so I apologize in advance if you get this more than once.

The tournament would be on a single game and take place over zoom. It sounds like it could be a hell of a good time.

Please head over here for info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/online-tournament-over-zoom-#post-5587755

Hi all. Might be a silly question but in regards to the star posts under the slingshots, the middle post on the right slingshot seems to have a star post but the left slingshot does not have one in the middle?

Same setup on mine, as you are referring to the posts on the "outside" of the slings". On the inside of the slings, my left sling has a star post at the top and the bottom, but on the right side I only have a star post at the bottom.

Chris ( Mr_Tantrum) and myself have been working on a Pinsound Remix update. I also have the cardona 1.01 chip, and we will see how it coalesces with Demolition Time update!
I also emailed colordmd for any interest in adding Cardona chip to the colorization.

We’ll see how it all pans out. I’ll post a YT vid on Pinsound update once it’s finished.

Wonder if anyone can help.

Not sure what happened. The game was having a reset issue when we got it. While trying to fix the issue we blew a fuse F112 and replaced it. Now when we turn it on the screen is like this.

We've tried replacing ribbon cables and every single board, one by one from a working pin. Also tried 2 other working dmds. Lights turn on, game boots up, but dmd is scrambled.

The led on the display board barely lights up. Even when we put another board in, it was the same.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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While trying to fix reset issue entails...

Lower Right Flipper - can someone post or send me a pic of the 3 wires so I can re-coil my machine properly ?

I've had this on two different old b/w games. Both times it was a loose ROM. Push all of your game rooms to be sure they are secured well to the board. Once I had to raise them a bit and reseat to get rid of the issue.

Could also be a ribbon cable issue or worst case board issue. Resseat ribbons and be sure they aren't backwards.

This help?

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Is there someplace I can get the curse home roms? I picked up a Demo Man last night, the guy bought it 15 years ago from the arcade that originally had it, and it's got the *original* retail code version on it LOL.

I used to get roms from John Wart, but his site has been AWOL since 2017.

I get all my rom's from ASTILL on here also goes by rompingirl on ebay.

Thanks for the heads up...74 bucks....probably just going to have someone local re-burn mine at that price.

Its expensive because there are 7 or 8 chips to burn.

Life hack: just buy a burner for $60 and some roms for $4 each

Neither one of you are wrong.

I'm just a cheapskate at heart, and I'd been waffling on buying a burner for oh...8 years. I finally bought one yesterday, and snagged some used EPROMS off ebay (pulls from Williams games that match my existing chips, aside from the labels being for a different game), and a UV eraser. So...taking a small gamble that some of these 1.75/chip pulls may not work even though the ebay ad says they do...

But for less than the price as two games worth of EPROMS, now I'll just be able to source chips wherever I can get the best deal, erase em, and write my own. It's honestly something I should've done years ago. *shrug* Oh, plus I might be able to unbrick my Wii that had Homebrew Channel on it that's been sitting in a box for like 7 years now, too.

Luckily for me, my first game needed all three new roms, so when I looked at the per price of getting them burned vs a burner, I bought the burner. Probably burned 100s of roms since then, but I might never have bought it if I just needed one rom burned one day

Yeah...I and I went through like 50 games in 7 years with no burner. Me smart.

Don’t mean to take this off topic but what EPROM burner did you buy?

I'm parting out a partially stripped Demolition Man playfield. Most of the habitrails/ wire ramps, the plastic subway trough, the big popper assembly that is connected to the subway, the back panel and other various pieces. PM me if you need something.

Went with the Willem GQ-4X v4. It was the most reasonable priced one I could easily find that has Windows 10 support, and with a 9v adapter, it will burn up to 21v chips. Believe the ones for Demo Man era games are 17v, which you still have to have the adapter for. Over USB only, pretty sure it only goes up to 13v.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01212KD74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01

This burner has worked fine for me going on 5 years now. What a huge time and money saver being able to burn my own chips. Nearly very used pin I've ever got in my possession has needed a ROM update and that gets expensive quick, plus I do not want to wait a week for new ROMs to be shipped.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCELI-TL866II-Performance-EEPROM-Programmer/dp/B07CQQBGVK/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp

This one I need.

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Several people asked for more information and pictures. So here you go. yellowghost there is a small crack where I am pointing in the plastic you were interested in.

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So on boot up today I got the "claw out of range" error, with the claw moving so far left it got wedged into the inside of the cabinet. I was able to shut down, and move it off the inside wall. Start up again and same thing.
Removed the claw assembly, gave the optics a quick clean with a Qtip, no help.

Before I start testing optics and other things... anyone have any tips from previous battles with your claw?

Just picked up my first Demo Man from mtbpinball Matt is a great guy and it was a blast meeting him and seeing his collection. The machine is in pristine condition, all I need to do is get the grips chromed and install a Pinshakers Shaker Motor kit inside

Anyways, thrilled to be a part of the club. I don't know what it is about this game that I am drawn to. I think for some reason it reminds me of being on the Space Mountain ride at Disneyland.. something with the sounds make me think of it.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

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This is my 8th time owning Demo Man ... I'm a Sucker 4 this Pin ... I Alway_Z treat it w/ respect ,,, Shop & Bling it out ..

Still N Progress ,,,, More mods 2 come ,,,,

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BR - you need some light strips in the back to light behind thoes girders .

I was wondering when I’d see this one pop up again I spent a lot of time cleaning that one up. Played good when I was done though! Glad someone’s still enjoying it!

What girders ?

Do U mean on the back of the p/f ?