Finally, finished cleaning mine up. Mirror blades, new plastics, new eyeball, led lighting, pinshaker, and led buttons. Messed up one of the buttons had to order a new one. Thanks Gweempose for convince me to buy the eyeball from eBay. One issue need a new trigger. Mine works but the dog took a bit out of it. I dropped it changing out the botton and didn't even know she swooped in to get it. That darn trigger is sold out everywhere.

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New eyeballs on.ebay ?!!

What are those blue led strips on the sides of the machine?

Ok, I have a weird issue. Durring multiball, when the first ball drains, it ends multiball despite there being more balls on the PF.

I think Im running outdated roms, think that could be the issue? Im at a loss on what else it could be.

I was looking for a new floating eyeball and he happen to spot on a few months back. I almost passed, glad I didn't. I haven't seen one since.

Linkage could be dirty optos in the ball trough. It’s pretty easy to clean them.

If you take a look at the edges of the play field, the wood rails have been moved in leaving about a 1/4 inch on both sides. This is perfect for LED stripping. I ordered a roll from Amazon and used the Aux output of the ColorDMD for the 12v. Looks great with the mirror blades. I'll try and post a few more pictures.

Count me in the club!!

Game is in great shape aside from the handles. If anyone has a spare set or knows where they can be purchased (I know they are hard to find) I would love to obtian a better condition set.

Mine are too rough to chrome or anything. Bondo and paint all over them.

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I was able to get eyeballs easily. I have a couple with different color retinas even. I’ll post the source when I get home.

Nice love to grab an extra. When I was looking for them I couldn't find the correct size.

I guess I'd buy an eyeball if it is only a few bucks. Otherwise the pinball I placed in there works just fine.

For chromed handles: Chris from pinballplating.com sc93cobra

He does exchanges and consult of yours likely won’t matter.

He has been contacted about them before. Said he could not do it in the condition they were in.

If they are fulla bondo, might as well add more bondo , sand it smoith and paint them. You got nothing to lose.

Dammit man, reveal your source!

From my recent restoration I always horde extras and spares because I’m crazy. The one on the left came with the game. Wrong eyeball. I believe I got this from an Australia website but I haven’t found it yet. I will post when I find it.

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Hopefully these will not dry out over time. Good idea having spares but if the one in the machine dries up, your spares might have dried up by that time too.

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/floating-eyeball/

$7.00 each different colors available.

I bought 4 of them and stuck one in the game.

My original ball from Austria looked just like the one on the left.

Mine looks like the one on the left and I thought it was stock. I am going to try and fill mine back up. Should I inject it with mineral oil? Silicon oil?

I guess I don’t know what the stock one is suppose to look like then. I saw a website that shows a restoration of a stock one and it looked more like the ones on the right to me. That guy said it was filled with alcohol. He spent about 100 man hours getting it back to normal.

I stand corrected here is the article from 2003. Eyeball looks like the one on the left. I’m not going through that for this eyeball though. I’ll use the mr. pinball ones. Shipping is expensive but if you get enough people together you can split the shipping.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/ij2/shop/Eyeball.htm

Anyone have a lead on a Trigger button? One of mine is functional but has issues.

waldo34 robd222 made metal trigger buttons about a year ago. Not sure if he has any left. I bought a set. I'd sell you my plastic ones, but I'm at least two projects away from messing with my demoman.

I have some original trigger buttons in perfect condition I will be happy to just give you, or maybe trade something for.

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Sending a PM now.

As I can't really do anything on the pin while waiting for parts to be delivered, I started fiddling around on Photoshop for custom instruction cards and almost accidentally ended up working on a draft of a potential alternate translite. It's still miles away from being ready for printing but I like the composition.

Instruction cards based on the same artworks are ready. I will print them tomorrow and see how they look.

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I read this. I think this guy over-thought the process. Take out the bead, fill it with water or something else and glue the bead back in. Hardest part is getting the bead out. So what if theres a few air bubbles. Not going to see them after its installed.

Not sure how these parts got broken, but I'm sure they are unobtainium huh? The claw drop is whatever, but it would be neat to be able to see the car.

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The white car is common. Red one not so much. You might find something close at a flea market.

Sorry I should have elaborated. The tunnel the car goes through was broken and someone fixed it with fiberglass that you can’t see through.

It does have a black car in it though, not the red one.

I would just remove it until you find a replacement. The ball may get stuck from time to time but it would look a lot better than it does now.

Not sure thats a good idea. That tube also prevents the cars from smashing into optos and gi bulbs.

Anyone have any information about an elevator mod discussed in Post 139 and Post 141?

You can get them 3d printed for cheap if you have at least one decent one for scanning.

Eyeballs from Aussie are sold out. I got an unfortunate refund. Sad day...

Aw bummer, I was going to order today... I have a mint HUO Demo Man, the only flaw is a dry eyeball replaced by this temporary that I got from Marco about a year ago... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-EYE And even it's out of stock now!

I'm in the process of cleaning up my Demolition Man and I'm stuck with the plastic claw removal: I cannot move the claw by hand all the way behind the playfield and the 3 metal posts in front of it are preventing me from removing the plastic cover. Any idea? I didn't force the claw too much out of fear of breaking it :/

I attached some pics. I couldn't get a good look at the cryo claw board, but from what I can tell from behind the plastic, it's filled with hacks... I reached out to to GLM for a replacement one but they never replied.

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Can't take out the posts?

Can't you remove the three posts from under the playfield? When I removed mine, I was able to swivel the crane out of the way. Try it again or look to see if there is an obstruction somewhere. You should be able to turn it all the way.

Forgot to mention I tried removing the three posts. I removed the nuts below the playfield but couldn’t unscrew them. I’ll give it another try tomorrow! Thanks for the replies.

They dont screw in. I had to unscrew the nuts to the end and then tap the nut with a hammer to get them out.

Ah good to know, thanks! Will try that tomorrow.

Also I noticed a loose wire on the cryo claw ramp. Seems to be yellow-black (or yellow-blue, not sure). Any idea where it's supposed to go?

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What wasn',t working before you pulled it? I would assume for the lamp sockets. It looks like it broke. Look for a solder pad with wire strands embedded in it.

It looks like it goes there.

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Does anyone have either just this plastic or a full set for sale? Or can anyone reproduce it? Mine is cracked in half. I could also use the car tube if that's available anywhere.

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I think they’re unobtainium. I couldn’t find one and I’ve looked everywhere. But when I see the quality of the other plastic repros I bought, I’m thinking I’m better off with the broken originals..

Worked like a charm, thanks! Turns out my cryo claw board seems to be working fine in spite of the hacks. My issue is with the elevator opto.

Good luck. Somebody should reproduce this piece. Its broken on just about every demolition man i've seen. Problem is that you need to bend it back to remove the nuts underneath holding down the ramps. I recommend adding two more stand-offs , one. drilling two holes in the two broken pieces and walk away. A new plastic will break eventually just like the old one.

I purchased a Demo Man a while back with a few issues, all of them resolved except for one. I have a locked on flasher #40 center ramp. Looking for the problem, I have checked everything thoroughly with no luck. I then focused on the Rottendog Supplemental Williams Driver Board that was powering it. I was considering replacing it, but took a close inspection of the board and found something curious. there is writing on the board that says: Demolition Man SW4 Out. Does this mean that the area SW4 should not have a resistor there? Can someone verify that this should be the case? Maybe this is the reason for my problem. I circled the area in a photo. If there is no resister there please let me know.

Scoot.

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