This is on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/1994-WILLIAMS-DEMOLITION-MAN-PINBALL-MACHINE-PLAYFIELD-LARGER-PLASTIC-RAMP/332554046445
He has several other parts for DM for sale too. I have found many unobtanium parts by messaging sellers like this who appear to be parting out a game.

Cool thanks. I sent him a message. Hopefully he has it

Has anyone found a source for the cabinet decals lately? It seems like everyone is sold out..

Just joined the club. It defiantly is a flow monster. I adjust all my games to 6.5 degrees. When I initially set up my demo man it was closer to 7 degrees and it did not play that bad. At 6.5 its a tad slow so I might adjust to to maybe 6.7 or so. Does everyone else's have the FL-11629 coils for main flippers? The right is FL-11629 and left upper and lower are both FL-11630's. Plenty of power for all ramps/orbits. I ordered the correct FL-11629 coil for the lower left but not sure if i need it.

I am looking for the computer plastic as well and the small plastic to the right of the pops. If someone has scans I could make the plastics too.

For people with LED's, do you disable the GI dimming functionality? My game came with incandescents and this feature off, turned it on but did not notice any actual use of GI dimming used in game, albeit, I have not progressed alot in the modes yet.

Yes. I always turn off the GI dimming feature when I install LEDs in the GI. If you don't, the LEDs will majorly flicker when the game tries to dim them. In the case of my DM, it has a GI OCD board, so I was able to leave the feature on. I also have an LED OCD board in the game. Both are excellent products that I would highly recommend.

I've got brand new FL-11629 in both lower flippers and never have any trouble making the ramps at 7 degrees.

Sold my demo man to SpiRomeo47 a couple days ago. He sent me a video of the elevator lifting the ball to the claw but the claw not grabbing it. He has a “magnet broken” error. It was working when he picked it up, in fact he played a game and got a right ramp shot and used it. I’m trying to help him trouble shoot the issue. My best guess is a solder broke and a wire came off? Any thoughts on what we should try? I read a post from a while back that said someone found fuse 901 popped and that fixed it but that’s on the fliptronic ii controller board. Is that related to the claw magnet somehow?

The claw magnet is powered by one of the spare transistors on the fliptronic board.

So it could in theory be a fuse then? I assume the power to the transistor runs through one of the fuses?

Also remind me, since I can’t open it and look anymore, the fliptronic board is in the back box?

Yes. Upper left board.

Is this game typically a drain hog? car crash, either ramp coming back down, post next to left ramp, all these bring it SDTM. I have my demo man level from side to side. Also after retina scan kickout it 60% of the time drains to outlane, I have adjusted the post to make the opening as small as possible.

Car crash and ramp rejects can be bad, yeah. My left ramp is much worse than my right, but I rarely fail to make the left so it's alright. There's an option on some rom versions for a ball save from the car crash.

I've never seen retina scan kickout drain before. Maybe arm is bent?

Maybe, it bounces of the post rubber and slingshot a little which causes it to drain. the other 40% it goes straight down the inlane just fine.

If your game is level, the ball should never drain coming out of Retina Scan, you clearly have ball-guides out of adjustment. Also, make sure you're using a 3/8" OD rubber on the mini-post, and not a 7/16".

I have the ball save on mine when you hit the car crash and it goes sdtm.

Seems like someone at some point installed a regular star post where a narrow post should be on the left slingshot next to the inlane causing the rubber to be a little too narrow. Sucks as I just placed an order on pinballlife.

Greetings, fellow DM owners. After a full tear-down and shop I have this one small clear plastic left. Can someone please point me to its intended location? Thank you!

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Willing to sell old plastics?

I have some good used random plastics, I dont have the big one for the upper flipper tho... Any others you need?

Absolutely. I will put up some pics tonight.

I need the computer plastic. I could use new sling plastics but mine are somewhat presentable. Not to mention I need that super small piece in the pop area that's always missing.

So I cannot take credit for this idea, I read it a few pages back and I think gweempose started the conversation with lots of good info from @TheOnlyest. I figured I might as well take some pictures along the way to help others out.

Again, I bought these buttons and they came with the important resistor required for 12v operation.
ebay.com link: 2X Durable 12mm Elevated Car Black Button Blue Angel Eye LED Momentary Switch

I also used 22 gauge wire for this modification, bought here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X98JD3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Lastly, you need some .156" molex 2 position plug housing and the connectors that go inside. Optional is making plugs at each trigger assembly. I used .062" molex round pin stuff.

First step is to detach the 2 pin switch connector (green and white), the 7 wire connector attached with Z connector (this needs to be removed at flipper switch opto board in addition), and the green grounding wire attached to leg mounting plate.
Using I think a T25 security Torx bit, remove the 4 mounting screws connecting the assembly to the cabinet, no need to remove the clam shell half at this point.
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With the assembly on your workbench, remove the two torx security screws holding the halves together. If you are nervous about this work, remember, my kids are helping its that easy.
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Remove the white and green switch wires from the switch assembly, note there is NO diode on this switch. I will check the manual to see if the diode is elsewhere or if this is a direct switch not part of the switch matrix.
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Now you need to remove the small phillips screw holding the micro switch into the switch housing. Remove the switch and keep the mounting plate and the lock washer, my new buttons did not come with a lock washer so I reused the old one. Keep all the switch components in a baggie in the coin box for later use or if the new owner does not like the new buttons. I always keep any original part I remove from a game.
Assemble the new angle eye switch. Do not worry about using the o-ring supplied with the new button. I orientated my button so the "+ and -" LED connections were on top and bottom with switch connections to left and right but it does not matter. As you can see, a bit more room in the trigger housing with the new buttons.
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It is very important that you use the supplied resistor inline with the LED. This is used to drop the voltage for the LED. It can be wired to the + or - terminal, I chose + terminal. Add heat shrink to the stripped wire and pre-tin the wire leads and contacts on the new switch, this will help with soldering them together. I first soldered the resistor onto the "+" terminal of the button, then the negative wire to the terminal opposite of the resistor. Lastly, I soldered the positive wire to the other end of the resistor.
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Now you can re-attach the switch connections. The old switch had a normally open pole and normally closed pole, the new switch is ONLY normally open so the green and white wires can be attached to either of the other two connections. Williams did not add heat shrink to original connections but we are not worried about tact time or assembly cost so add some heat shrink. Even if we are not professionals we want to act like them.
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This is good time to bust out the multi-meter and check to see if the button works and nothing got damaged. Alot easier to change something now then when the machine is all buttoned up. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink the heat shrink once you verified the switch is working.
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Place the new switch assembly back into the housing and route the wire similar to as shown. You just do not want them interfering with the trigger button action.
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You can now cut the other end of the power wire and terminate with a .062" molex connector of run it right to the coin door interface board. I chose to use molex connectors because it will be easier to remove handle assemblies later on. Remember to cut leads long enough to clear the flat mounting plate on the inside of the cabinet. Make sure the new power wire is routed into the grooves along with the other bunch of wires, you do not want to pinch the wires during assembly.
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Reassemble the handle assemblies making sure to not pinch the wires. Route the wire bunch back into the cabinet and re-attach the handles to the cabinet. If you game is home use, you can switch to not security torx hardware and swap out for standard hex head button screws.

Measure out some wire and terminal with the mating molex connectors for handle assemblies (if you added connectors). I used 22 gauge wire which was small enough to fit two wires into a .156" molex connector so I could make a wiring harness.
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We want to attach the power wires using a 2 position .156" molex connector to the coin door interface board. It has a spare 12v supply I can only assume would be to run a ticket dispensing machine or bill validator. Positive to "12v" pin 4th from bottom or pin "1" and negative to "PWR GND" pin 3rd from bottom or pin "1".
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You should be all set, turn power on and marvel at your work.
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Great step-by-step guide!

I could use the one over the scoop opposite the upper flipper if anyone has one. Mine is missing, and I am going to have to fabricate a bracket for it as well.

I have that plastic. It's slightly used, but in decent shape. Let me know if you are interested.

Hello all, I would like to join the club. My first pin is this Demo man. It is in great shape. I have put Tilt Graphics blades, did the blue in the back windows, and some pop bumper caps, I like a bright play field. I believe it to be a HOU pin. The guy I got it from had it for 15 year, and said he got it from the original. owner.

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I used Comets OP-MAX for the back and, and their Lighted Strips for the windows.

It's not "monetary", it's momentary. This means the switch is only active while the button is depressed, and it will revert back to its original position when released. This is the exact kind of button you want.

Guys my pin is having the "divertor stuck closed error" and all other solenoid on high power circuit are become weak! Anyone have ever had this problem?

the ramp divertor doesn't moves anymore during play (during test it works instead), wires are firmly soldered to the coil and it moves freely by hand. Tested the related driver transistor and it seems good (no leg shorting and values same to the others on board..).

Also I've checked the test point on board with a multimeter and the 50 volts are present (65-66v points to be precise). There are 50 to 60 volts on each of the 2/3 coils solder pad. Checked fuses F105 Solenoid #1-#8 and F112 Solenoid Secondary, they are new and working. Checked all h.power solenoid wires and there are no loose cables.

Don't know what else to do

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Apologies if this is covered elsewhere in the thread. I'm looking to replace the small red button trigger switch in one of the handles. Any idea where to buy the switches?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18511

I'm new to the WPC world, but I now have WhoDunnit, Road Show and Demolition Man. From what I have read, it wouldn't hurt to rework your power driver board (I have done this to all of mine). I'm not an advocate of swapping out the bridges if they are functioning properly (you'll know it if they aren't!), but I do replace all of the capacitors (they get old and dry out) and I reflow the solder on all of the header pins. Any number of issues will be avoided or resolved. Be careful when removing the snap-caps so you don't mess up the through-holes and check for continuity on both sides of the board when you are done installing the new ones.

Good luck!

Langless28 did a great write-up in post 923 above where he replaced his switches with some with LED lighting. Included is a link to the switches available on eBay. They should work for you without the lights, if desired.

Thank you!

Thanks for your advice but how do i know if they really work?? On this power board i have replaced j115 pins m/f for gi, reflowed several connectors, replaced C8, replaced C11 and added jumpers on lamps and high power circuit since there was no continuity at some point..I haven't replaced any BR since they measured good with multimeter.. the game worked great for a couple of month and now this..

Why the jumpers? Do you have pictures? Have you run the coil test? Does the diverter work in test?

Since you have 50 volts at the diverter coil, check continuity from the Brown/Violet coil wire to the power driver board (reading from the schematics, the Brown/Violet wire should go to J127-8 and then to Q44 (I don't know which leg) and/or the unbanded side of D17).

You said you tested for 50 volts on the power driver board and at each coil. Were the readings the same or very close to the same?

I believe you said that you tested the TIP102 at Q44. Did you also test the 2N5401 at Q43?

Shopping out my DM and added the LED pop bumper rings from Comet pinball. I did not think I was going to like this game that much but it sure does have some great flow

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Can someone please look at there machine and see where this wire goes too? Its the switch that the nut driver is pointing too on top if that helps. Thanks in advance.

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I think it has come off from the yellow stand-up-target below. In my game the wire is brown, but hope this picture helps.

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Just joined the club!

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I haven't forgotten about this, just haven't got there yet...